TigerFish

They should just push together. There is a metal clip, a bit like the ones on the electrical connection blocks. Easiest way to see is pull the other one out. It’ll have some resistance from the spring return, but will pull forward. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The adjuster should be similar to the GS shown in this tutorial I did a while back, as other mentioned, sounds like they haven't backed it off. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/74065-gs-and-is-rear-brake-pad-disc-change/

You’d need spigot rings as well, if you are happy the offset is ok. Centre bore on the LS is 60.1, those wheels say 73 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

How much did they charge per wheel? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Awesome work man. Great attention to detail [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Great job Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Was an electronics engineer on radars in the RAF for 11 years, but left to pursue a career change into programming. Moved between contract work and permanent roles for the next 11 years within the finance industry. Currently in my 8th year as Lead Business Intelligence Developer for a challenger bank in Reading.

My admiral multicar policy has independent NCD, although I did negotiate a bit of a boost on the second one initially as part of the deal to take the policy. Both are now at max, and I an take it with me if I removed one and go elsewhere.

Great result. Odd it didn't throw a code though.

good choice with the 1uz, more tuning choice and stronger stock internals than the 2uz or 3uz, if you decided to boost it later as well

You didn’t mention refuelling in the original post. When was it refuelled compared to the cut out and non-starting problem? How low on fuel before the fill up? I’d expect issues to show very quickly if the fuel was so poor that is resulted in not-starting, there’s not a whole heap of fuel in the lines to flush out before hitting fuel from the tank (I don’t recall if there is a loop back to the tank on the 430, which would make it an even shorter time). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ok, fair enough. Does the flashing security light go out when the ignition is on? (Just in case the immobiliser has kicked in) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Did the guy say he'd read the codes with his equipment? Were there any codes stored?

No experience with those brands, but ran RSR lowering springs on my gen 1 GS300 Sport, and GMax lowering springs on my gen 2 gs430 Sport. Both gave no problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nice looking IS. Aero's are by far the best factory alloys they did on the IS B)

Are there any lights on on the dash? Limp mode can do this. Knock sensor problems for example, can cause limp mode to kick in. It is normally accompanied by the Check engine lamp though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Welcome to LOC B) The GS430 is an awesome car for the money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’d say it was a good move. Regardless of the adequacy of the stock brakes, if you don’t have 100% confidence in them when they are pushed hard (I never did on any of my GS’s), then it is worth the work. Even if yours aren’t right in some way, fixing the stock ones, or going for a much better option, is a no brainier IMO. Especially as we all know, the sliding calipers are commonly “problematic” on most lexus models. Unfortunately, I’ve no idea how easily they fit, but it sounds like it has been done before, and the other lexus models that have those calipers as stock, run 17’s as an option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nope, afraid not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That’s pretty much what mine gave too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have a set with my winter tyres on. As I’ve now sold the GS, I am planning to remove the tyres and sell the wheels on. I can do some pics if you like? As you have discovered, they do crack, so the rears have been professionally repaired on the inner edges when they were refurbished. Where are you located, just in case you wanted to have a look? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

nice job on the lights

That mani does look pretty sweet

Yes, if you can stop the blow, then it should pass the MOT with no issue. 9 times out of 10, a blow is more of a problem as it skews the emissions numbers and fails on those. It would have to be an epic blow to fail on that alone, ie noise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'm assuming that 61.885 is a typo? As you say, and as I understood it, the 2JZ-GE and 2JZ-GTE are the same, but if swapping bits about, you'd need to get the correct bearing based on the numbers on the block, crank and rods. Maybe the crank has been "worked" before and the bearings not replaced? If its still under the max tolerance, its probably ok, but I'm sure there are probably folk on one of the supra forums that might be more in the know.