BigMartin

I had mine stolen last week and I have just got the car back tonight. I still need one Oxygen/Lambda Sensor so although the exhaust is now quiet, I do have the Engine Light on. Does anyone know how much Lexus would charge for one sensor and fitting?

Thanks to you both for your inputs. I'm 100% sure it isn't the keyfobs as I wasn't at the stage of getting the Battery Warnings on the dashboard. New batteries didn't change anything. The strange thing is that everything just started working as normal on Saturday evening. I checked a few times on Sunday and all was still well and this morning I've taken it for a drive. Only now am I confident enough to say it's working well. I did take the key cover off to check under there and I did turn my broadband router off too, but it was all still intermittent after that. What I did do is get between the passenger side and the fence and open the NSR Door. Everything seemed to be OK after that. Not sure that had anything to do with it as the boot sensor was intermittent too, but I'm just happy it's working and locking from 50m away too. Still mystified!

My LS460 (2008) Door Entry System has suddenly gone Intermittent. I've changed the keyfob battery and also put a new battery in the spare keyfob. No different. The car had not been warning me that the key battery was low. I have always known that sometimes I could walk up to the car and the light under the wing mirror wouldn't come on to recognise the car has detected the key. Usually if I just stood outside still for a second it would detect. Unfortunately this is a near permanent problem now. Occasionally over the years it would say the key wasn't detected while I was inside. The standard lock and unlock buttons are only working on about one press in every five. The Wing Mirror light comes on around the same frequency, once in every five times or so that I walk up to the car. I have started the car may times in the last few days and am sure the battery is OK. Any suggestions? I believe there is a disable/reset button under the steering wheel, so I will try that.

Thanks to you both for the confirmation. Let's just say that the Tyre Centre phoned me after two hours to tell me that the car didn't have a battery. I had to tell them where to find it and then they called back to say it was down at 50% CCA. Then they ordered me a replacement which I came back for two days later to find wouldn't fit. I gave up on them then and sorted it myself.

I have just had the same problem with my Wife's CT200 and went for the Yuasa batttery at the Battery Shop (per the link above). I am hearing mixed messages from so many people on whether this battery (I believe it is called an Accessory Battery or "Puter Booter") actually fires up the Engine or not. The tyre centre I took it to for a battery test suggested that it was running at around 50% of the CCA capacity and I know the voltage was dropping to 10V in the cold and I charged it a couple of times myself while waiting for the new one to arrive. However, the Tyre Centre were absolutely insistent that this Yuasa battery starts the Petrol Engine and that the Hybrid Batteries only drive the Electric Motor. What is actually true? Surely if I only needed the accessory battery to start the computer, then it wouldn't need 325A CCA.

Thanks for all the replies. I went out and refitted my original disc this morning and everything is back to normal. I'm hunting around on the Web for potential solutions now. aido - I bought this one - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163353777335 - same supplier, same disc, but cheaper. I guess if it was laser wear then the old disc would have problems too.

I prefer my LS400 Mk3 to my current LS460. I don't know why as the LS460 is better in almost every aspect, but to me the LS400 was something I got to own at a young age and people envied me for it. The LS460 just doesn't touch my soul in the same way.

I just purchased a DVD Map update from eBay for a 2008 LS460 (Not the SE). Everything I look at suggests I have the right disc and the vendor feedback on eBay is really good. The previous disc was Europe West E10, 2007-2008 Ver.1, 86271-0w060 The replacement disc is Europe West E1G, 2017-2018 Ver. 2, PZ445-X03EU-0N All the high end multiple £/$ Websites quote the same replacement option as I have purchased, so I believe it is the right one. When I loaded it the Maps were updated and the new roads where I live are all showing as they should. However, the system is running exceptionally slow. I can press the "Dest" button and it can take many seconds to change screen (and sometimes doesn't). Sometimes even pressing "I Agree" can take 30 seconds or so.It can take ages to page through the 10 Country Maps under the coverage option and other times it rotates through them at normal speed. When it does all work then I get a sensible route showing and I can follow it as expected. My original saved destinations are still there too. Any pointers? The disc came with a little sheet of paper saying if the disc doesn't load then I need to disconnect the battery negative for 15 minutes and go through a boot screen that may show some Chinese characters. I don't want to try that just yet as it looks like it has loaded. Is this a car with a Hard Drive in or not? Thanks for any help.

Mine is in bar too Dale, I just figured people would better understand if I did a psi conversion. I wish I could switch the display to psi too.

Thanks Steve. You continue to give great answers to the few questions I have asked. i see them at around £45 each on Ebay, but it sounds like it won't work unless a dealer codes it? Peter - I've just started reading your thread and it's got some great detail in it. Can you please post a link to the sensors you purchased on Ebay and tell me who fitted them for you (and how much).

On my LS460 2008, I've always had one tyre that slowly deflates. It took weeks to go from 36psi down to about 28psi, so it didn't really both me too much. I just assumed it was leaking around the bead and it hadn't got any worse in 2 years. So, new tyres needed and fitted ..... Next drive, I could see the pressure slowly falling on the same tyre while I was driving down the M4, I lost about 8psi in 50 miles. After a few days away I had lost a bit more pressure, but not as much as I lost on the original 50 mile drive. I pumped the tyre up and drove the same 50 miles home again, losing a similar amount of pressure. I took it back to the tyre supplier this morning and they diagnosed the valve leaking around the stem and said they couldn't do anything with it, but if I bought a new one they would fit it for me. I drove 30 miles this afternoon and it seems to be going down faster now. So tonight I have changed the wheel for the spare and that should give me more time to fix this. However, after changing I noticed the two tyres stayed in the same places on the list on the dashboard (Still 2nd and 5th) - So I have to assume that they are individually coded on the wheel and not on the car. That's where my concern starts. I have to replace the sensor but how can I be sure it is coded for "Position 5" and appears in the right place in the list? Is the wisdom on a 9 year old, 60K miles car, that I should change them all now? If so, what's the best option?

Traded in Malc. A tough decision as I have had the car nearly 14 years now. I needed to get another one while I could still afford to do so.

Final update on this one. I've done 23K miles since I had the throttle bodies cleaned out and have not seen the car stall once in that time. It seems it doesn't work for everyone, but it fixed my problems. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future. It's the last update for me on this as I'm swapping it for an LS460 on Friday.