IRLRs200

Dimmer cable and aerial lead are seperate to all the other cables. Dimmer is orange and aerial lead is blue/white. They are this colur on the ISO lead, but most modern HU colurs are the same Heres how i connected my aerial lead

very nice, is it just the top you did??

I wish i had feet that small to be able to do that!

Pm sent Mat

Nice one mate, later in February would be better for me as ferries are a bit cheaper then We might not even get a booking in Feburary at this stage ill let you know how i get on on Monday.

Do you have any price for these Dave? Tried to send u Pm but never went through

says they only ship to the States

Its on my to buy list!! Not sure if i would have the balls to fit it myself though

Would be good to see you again mate. Any time i rang them in the last few days, no one that answered could take my booking. The guy was supposed to call me back ill do it again on monday.

Off with the door trim it is so! and as i was putting it back on off popped the tweeter cover, just a good yank and it comes off!! :o

Hi guts just curious is there an easier way to disconnect the front tweeters than taking the door trim off? I know om just being lazy!

Ive tidied things up a bit and can fit 2 suitcases in actually!

Tells you how to post pics here

never heard of this either. What are the rewards and offers they talk about? not too much info on the site, seems like a a marketing ploy to get you to buy a new Lexus! "Free round of golf" ooooohhh! :o

Ooh nasty, if its your manifold that has a hole a good welder could fix it, but if you need a few welds on different sections, labour could be a lot over here and it may be cheaper to upgrade. RS200 exhaust differs from the IS200 so sourcing it over here could be a problem. couture auto do some exhaust systems for the altezza, they could help you out.

That kit works out at nearly 2 grand including vat then delivery on top of that, you could get Tein coilovers for less than half that.

anyone No pics but this might help Tools needed 10mm deep socket & ratchet 12mm socket 10mm spanner (get a ratcheting one TRUST ME) Pliers (for the radiator hose clamps) Flat bladed screwdriver Small hands/arms (now’s the time to teach the wife or child how to do some car stuff) Wait for car to cool thoroughly. Drain coolant from the radiator. Once the coolant has been drained, disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator. This will help you maneuver the thermostat housing around in the tight area. With the lower radiator hose free you need to locate the thermostat housing. It is at the top right hand side of the motor (looking at it standing in front of the car). It’s under various bits of wiring harness and is a bit awkward to get to. I found the thermostat housing easier to access with both exhaust manifold heat shield’s removed. You do not HAVE to do this step but it will save you from being cut by them (ask me how I know). You will need the 12mm socket for this. With the heat shields out of the way and lower radiator hose free from the radiator you can now concentrate your efforts on the housing itself. It is held on by 2 10mm nuts. For the top nut you will need the 10mm deep socket, the reason you need a deep socket is for reach (it will become apparent when you attempt this). The lower nut, which you have to blindly molest the bottom of the housing till you find it, requires the 10mm spanner. Your life will be made 1000 times easier if you get a 10mm spanner that ratchets. With the nuts off (and hopefully not lost in the recesses of the engine bay somewhere) grab the flat bladed screwdriver and gently pry the housing from the block. Water will come rushing out once the housing is removed so you may want to put a bucket or a few towels under the car to catch this. Now it gets harder. Trying to get the thermostat housing to lift over the studs it’s slotted onto. You just have to wiggle and what not till you get it off them. If you can manage enough room, get the old thermostat out of there (it may require some convincing). The hardest part of all is getting the new thermostat to sit in the housing while you try to install everything where it went. You will be testing your dexterity every inch of the way. I found I had to reach under the housing and lift the thermostat up with a finger while I slid the housing back onto the studs (oooo that sounded far too dirty). Then you have to hold the housing there and thread the nuts back on. The lower one is the easiest to start because you can do it by hand. The upper nut you will have to use the deep socket to do. I found it easiest to use just the socket without the ratchet to start the nut and then once it’s snug continue to tighten it with the ratchet. With the thermostat housing tightened down you can now put back in the heat shields. Once they are on and secure you can now refill the car with coolant/water. Keep a bottle of coolant/water with you on your first drive as you will probably have to top up the coolant once the car warms up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE CAR IS HOT!!!! I cannot stress that enough as I am not responsible for any bodily or vehicular harm which may ensue. If you find that the car is over heating find a nice spot and let it cool. Once its cooled enough that you can take the radiator cap off, fill up the radiator as required. My temps went from the notch above the halfway mark with the stock 1.1bar radiator cap and 82*C thermostat to between the half way notch and the notch below it with the TRD 1.3bar radiator cap and 71*C thermostat.

i would order these plugs off ebay, havent seen them anywhere over here

link doesnt work for me Noel

No you just need to buy 2 kits! There is these Bi-xenon kits you can get that have both full and dipped in the one bulb, think these are ridicously priced though

Skanger me Banger!!

Shouldnt be a problem to return them me thinks, especially if you haven't opened the box

My HIDs come on, on the dipped beam.Just incase you dont know, there is 4 bulbs in the headlight: 1. sidelight 2. dipped beam 3. Full beam 4. Indicator Pic one shows normal dipped beam lights on and sidelight(my side light is a blue LED) This pic shows Full beams on aswell as dipped beam and sidelight Hope this make sense to ya, sorry for bad quality pics, i took them with my phone

The HID's go in your Dipped, otherwise whats the point in fitting them? You cant drive with your full beams on all the time, You will be blinding oncoming traffic left, right and centre!

Sorry im just talking from experience over here in Ireland. Most locksmiths will not make a copy of any key that has a built in immobiliser thingy.