skperformance
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Posts posted by skperformance
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the parking brake saftey switch is not engaging
which is when you press the brake to take it out of gear
you are pressing the brake pedal too shift right?
it might be the brake swithc or the lock mechanism in the transmission selector
for the handle
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sounds dumb but
have you checked the Battery voltage
it might be a dead alternator
and the thunk is the starter ttrying to turn but can't
i just like to start witht the simplest first
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not bad steve
did you do teh shift know mod youself too
lol
i am only kidding
i am not that stupid
although i sound it
i like how you guys have different titles and the 2 boards are not really linked
for joined date
and posts
kind of odd
when i logged in here
i noticed i was a member since 02
which is what i thought
later
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brakes are alittle more technical than changing oil but not much
it is a good place to start to learn
it is also very easy with the right tools
need to remove the wheel after it is jacked up
undo 2 bolts on the calipers and pull up then pop off the pads
then you have to get a tool to reinsert the piston into the caliper
likea vise clamp
open the brake res to let out the air up top
then make sure you reinstall them metal anti sqeal shims in front of them and replace
all done can be done in about an hour
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the rear plugs are real hard to get to
some have suggested removing the intake plenum to get to them
the wires are not regualr wires but are for the coils that are on top of each plug individually
i get mine done at teh dealer
it is too much headache
even though i have all the tools to do it
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sorry but what you found is correct
there is none for you year or later models
it has to be custom made frm a audio shop
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there are only chargers for 97 and up
you can do an intake exhaust and ome suspension mods
but unless it is an unsafe amount of nos then you shuld never be able to be a mustang
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no the airbag shouldn't pop as it registered a problem
so it willl go into fail safe and shut itself down
the ecu for the airbag is locate under the center console
so when taking it to the dealer take everythign out from there as it will have to be opened for acess if needed
there is a setting that if the light is read by the ecu as faulty it will tell the main ecu to turn the check engine light on instead
you didn't happen to change the cluster with the Battery connected did you?
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you need to remove the pannel in the back of teh trunk this includes the little plastic screws and the top ledge made of plastic also
the bolts for the lights need to be removed as the only way to get them out is with the rear lights
once removed from the car there are 2 screws on each black plastic piece to undo and then pop them out
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the intkae needs a sensor bracket to go from round to square
then a small pipe to go into the fender and a filter
no real ones are already made though so it ends up being all custom
except for the bracket and filter
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i don' t know of any thatdrop the car 1.8 usually 1.6 the most
the lowest is usually the h and r ones for teh german market which are lower than the american h and r's
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one thought although not related to the gas it the intake
maf that does give it a bogginh problem
my 94 which shares the same engine had that problem a while ago
i had to clean the sensor out
also the egr shouldn't cause too much of a bogging problem
as i also have a problem with my egr
1995 Es300 Keyless Entry
in ES300 / Windom Club
Posted
the ecu for the alram is in the trunk on the left side
behing the trim
pull it back and it is a little black box with a little cover opening with a screw to remove it
that is where you put the new ecu prom
what are the nubers on the old key
i also have lost one of mine and am looking ofr a new head which may be able to link to my stock alram