Monster-Mat

no i am not making them anymore

i have run HKS and KW3, the KW3 were the best set up, but depends how serious you want to get you will need to work on the geometry also, the IS chassis is very good for grip.....something even with 600+ hp still was a bit of a pain

i recommend running a supra diff and shafts i also suggest you make a heat shield for your clutch master cylinder, over time the heat will cause it to fail

i think it should read IS-F ......

i remember when mine tried to kill me every time i put my foot down in the wet.... and the dry with 600hp

whats the reasoning for doing it, its possible are you also removing the aircon and power steering

Speed pulse signal can be tapped at the drivers fuse box (grey wire from ABS sensor) i dont have my wire diagrams anymore so can be pin specific

Early chaser uses same case

yes the non fog was a base spec, its possible the plugs is behind the bumper regards aftermarket wireing if needed, if you know a decent auto electrician he would be able to identify in the look plug going into the stalk the correct wire, i dont have my diagrams to hand to identify it for you sorry

Rods, was the most common failure back in 2001 when we started doing this upgrades

depends what offset your wheels are ah just seen std wheels

yes they are the same, however front spring rates are different between the is200, 300 and Altezza is300 coilovers wont be any worse on an is200, you will be fine i have done it

Discs themselves - DO NOT WARP, unless there are very poor manufactured items the Warping comes from small amounts of built up pad material deposited on the disc surface, subsequent brake applications deposit pad material in the same place, until it starts to feel to the driver as though there is an issue with the disk i suspect that many of the replaced disks have been with Ebay products, Ebay and some motor factors are flooded with Fake Mintex discs the possibility of a hub issue are very real, however as some have done, using a run out gauge on the hub, and then with the disc fitted will identify this issue more often than not the issue is with the caliper, either corroded sliders, corroded pistons or crap build up on the caliper parts that the pads are located within. most caliper rebuilds ive seen have been very suspect, and short of completely refurbishing the caliper, have never solved the problems, always consider other causes before you believe what a parts fitter in a garage tells, you, the suspension on a modern car is quite complex with finite tolerances which wander as the components wear there are many reasons for shudder or breaking issues, non are really caused by warped disks

eibach spacers are excellent, just ensure you buy from a reputable supplier as there are fakes available, obviously ensure if your just using a spacer that there are enough threads to use

Cheers for all the replies, i think a test drive is going to be needed, im not overly fussed about high mileage aslong as the car has history, my RS4 had 120,000 on the clock with full ASH and nothing has gone wrong on it, and its had a few good runs to germany and back

Don't really know why I am asking the question really......I mean, I've been around Lexus from day one But i see the ISF prices are tumbling now, and wondering if I should move back to the Brand to fill my garage with a new toy been running an RS4 now for a couple of years and to be honest, other than a couple of niggles, that were sorted by Audi really do love the car, so is it time to go for an ISF.... the only thing that I think will put me off is the gearbox, I like manual cars! sell it to me

i added mine to the oil cooler sandwich plate on the side of the engine

if you want to maintain multiplex functions (dash, alarm, central locking,etc) you need to use the IS200 ecu to control that aspect

Steel, the alloy nuts tend to strip there threads after a couple of on/off

the picture is off the temp sensor, is either clipped under the slam panel or located on the underneath of the crash bar

ive had this conversion done since 2004/5

You do not need to remove the tray completely, just undo the front screws. the drain screw for the radiator is located (looking at front of car) to the bootom right, it is a small white plastic wing nut type plug, undo this, ensuring you have a container suitably sized to take the fluid. once it is undone (it does not need to be fully removed to drain) remove radiator filler cap and this will allow for a more efficient drain of the system

The rear skirt was originally made by Amuse, takakaira used to sell them in Japan, many years ago where you could get a copy nowadays is anyones guess

looks like it could be one of the fan cables