Tinonline

Thanks...had another look this morning...the front headlight bracket bit is in fact intact but missing from indicator unit. Rear bit is ok on indicator but missing from rear of headlight.😁 I’ve gone for a new indicator unit as two retainers should work. I’ll place some Velcro along the side just to add support. When I did my cambelt change at around 72k miles I replaced everything apart from the fan bracket. Now at 93k miles it’s getting noisy on cold start up but quietens down quite quickly. This morning: cold but not as last few days it was fine. Wish I’d replaced that so it’s another impending task. I’ve attached some pics of the offending bonnet catch. The section shown has sheared off.

A few gremlins are out and about in my LS400 year 2000. The auxiliary bonnet catch has given up the ghost so an OE at outrageous £’s per square inch will have to do.☹️ More perplexing is trying to keep an indicator unit in situ. The top bracket has all but gone having sheared in a number of places...I drilled a couple of holes in what was left and have twice secured with wire and now string to keep it in the bottom of the unit moved out - cardboard wedges for now. The side lug on the head lamp for the indicator has long gone. Also that wing has a slight ding in it from the previous owner. Fitting a new unit will just result in a sheared top bracket...fitting new headlight unit seems a bit drastic and costly...wing in that area does not look out of shape. Any ideas would be welcome.🙂

I’ll DM you👍

Hi I’d check fluid level which I’m sure you’ve done. Look for any leaks around reservoir, master cylinder and brake lines, calipers. See how worn the pads are. Best tool is a self bleeder. It’s a standard size. From memory I recall the wheel that is furthest away in terms of position is not actually so in terms of brake circuitry. I don’t think it will be the fluid itself...you might have a tired, failing brake master. Not the end of the world...as always with a Lexus once fixed, whatever it is it’ll be good for years.

I spoke to Lee from Gove Garage in Brighton. Very helpful and knowledgeable as an ex Lexus mechanic. I’m paying a visit early next month for pipe surgery...he’ll check the EGR pipe at the same time. If the flanges are shot he’ll cut them off and replace them...sounds good to me. 🔧👍

Thanks for this I’ll give them a call. 👍🙂

Wow that’s good value. I’m in Reading...Brighton is doable...

Hi I’ve seen a discounted price of £440 from one Lexus OE and dealer. Flanges are serviceable, the blow is passenger side top under the heat shield. It’s not in the classic elbow of the Y. Visually it doesn’t look a mess...yep the flanges and bolts are rusty with a build up of rust. The section would need to come out for repair if a repair is viable. I reckon if the repair touches or exceeds £200 then I’d bite the bullet: fit and forget...😌 I can’t complain as apart from usual maintenance there’s been little to worry about. My Christmas job is replacing rear discs and pads: £200 for OE. For parts - and I’m ok with that. They’ll be arriving anytime soon.

Hi Any advice where I can source the y section in the exhaust. It’s post cat from the flanges to rear section... I think this is a common failure point. The section has heat shields...I’d rather replace than attempt a repair. LS400 Year 2000. The local ATS will fit it: they can’t source the part though - I’ve known them for years and they’re always helpful. cheers 🤢

Battery prices are ok at the dealerships...I think the units are good for 5 years...mine is over that now but I’m not making any comment😷🤭

How old is the battery...🧐 Also I’ve flattened the battery a few times working on the car with doors open and internal/boot/lights on much to my surprise...all good afterwards though.

The colours changed as the market shifted to revised formulas. Trying to identify what was in my son’s 2007 Merc and finding what would top up and replace was ridiculous...naturally manufacturers lean heavily on brand protection as far as they are legally able. I prefer OE but the quality of good quality oils and fluids matches or exceeds OE and is often rebranded product. A local Lexus garage uses Shell Helix for eg. I check the specifications, naturally. Petrol formulas look as though will change again soon, here we may have little or no choice. I don’t find Red coolant easy to find btw and it’s essentially at end of life. The Lexus handbook gives a steer on requirements...fairly basic so I’m confident on getting a non OE, suitable match.

OE from Lexus is one route. Or Pink Long Life from someone like Eurocarparts. It lasts 5 years and is fine for UK weather demands. I buy ready diluted as it's good to go. If you have to top up and colour matching is difficult...there is a Preston's add to any fluid. I see this as a short-term measure.

Leaks can be tricky to detect but you can smell them...damp sweet whiff... If your reservoir cap old? I had a very gradual coolant loss that worried and baffled me - I had the original cap. Last ditch was to fit a new OE cap. All good now. Lots of short journeys hot/cold/hot/cold = pressure loss and evaporation. Just a thought.

Thank you my friends - looks like I can be spared changing the shoes. I'll give them a good clean and apply a little copper grease to the pivot points. Good for another 20+ years!

Last jobs I did on my LS400 were oil change and filter, air filter and pollen filter. At 92,716 miles I passed the MOT. with an advisory on thin rear brake pads and I knew they would be due soon. No warning light as of yet. Time for rear discs and parking shoes too really at this mileage. Last years' brush with emissions failure at idle didn't feature again. So thrashing around a few miles with added Cataclean last year must have really done the job. Time to start shopping around for parts. 🧐

🤣

Malc...on my recent look at Lexus LS400's I also found very common ECU caps failure as a forum theme all Mks but particularly pre-97. Also the dreaded EGR pipe from top engine rear to exhaust was a common failure. I don't think either seemed to have just stopped the car in it's tracks but were major faults requiring immediate repair. 🙂

If your car starts and performs as normal then the answer is no. 👍 The process is not the battery per se... but restart procedure for the ignition key/anti-theft device. This kind of info should be in your Owner's Manual. I never remember the process for my Mk4 Lexus LS400 and interesting to note the procedure is detailed in a yellow warning sticker on the back cover of the Owner's Manual! Looks like they wanted to draw attention to it...or someone forgot to write it in to the manual. 😮

Yep and I think the Mk4 is easier to work on cambelt wise. The MK 4 performance is always mixed up with the earlier cars...I have seen 0-60mph time of 6.3 seconds listed for the MK4 and I believe it. 😀

Yes - looks like you can do either. Mine went in dry. If you do use grease, probably best to ensure you use sparingly and only electrolyte grease.

Here's the answer: and a note to amend my own experience from the guide I wrote for later LS400 plugs. I discovered/read a Lexus manual on this and one step is to apply electrolyte grease to the spark plug threads. Next time I will do this. There was certainly no sign of this on removing my plugs...Lexus service history to the then 72k Miles.

My LS400 gets an annual change. Crosland this year. But I like Mann - just fitted Mann oil filter to eldest son's CLK350. They are getting pricey - made in Germany. I've a Denso cabin filter to fit - Denso is good and does a lot of OE for Lexus across many parts lines. 🙂

Hi Malc Only seen it in connection with the 430's. I don't think it's a problem with the SC430? Simon

Later MK4 last run of the LS400 has the coil on plug. So on each spark plug there is an ignition coil. These are straight forward to get at and replace. They seem to be reliable and I don't see many complaints...I believe manufactured by Denso. Guess what...Denso also make coils for Jags...and...yes they fail very regularly so I suppose the quality is completely different looking at years circa 2000 - 2003.