Tinonline

Indicator fixed...sort of... I was having problems securing my passenger side indicator unit: it would fly out and either hang of flap about at speed. It just gave up fitting whatever I wedged, stuck or wired to keep in still. I bought a replacement unit and noted the old one had two missing lugs to the outer side and the bracket loop on the headlight unit had broken off. With that the stress on the top bracket was too much and it gave up. With help (again) from Andy the partsmeister from Lexus Reading I got hold of a bottom grommet that fixes the...anyway I think the pictures will explain. I've got a better fit but it does look as though previous wing damage has changed the wing enough to distort. So now it's not perfect but serviceable. Velcro is retained to attempt some hold where the headlight fixing should be - I'm not getting a new headlight unit! I'll be interested to know whether there ought to be another grommet or lug in the top hole...couldn't find one listed and I'll leave the other unit well alone so I'm not checking there!

Yes Cat C is very annoying but it appears to be insurable and that's worth checking out...in any event I'd expect it to lower the asking price. If you haven't driven a Mk4 before...it's a blast...and very fast... I think most 400's are project cars in some respect...at this age there is always something? Here's my revised list: -Upper front suspension arms -Engine undertray replacement -Radiator cowl replacement -Renovate wheels -Repair ding/misshapen front wing -Repair dent and leading edge damage to rear wing -Repair dent to rear bumber -Respray or replace front bumper + lights

My front sensor was Pagid P8656 from Eurocarparts at a stiff £45 but I baulked at the cheap ones although I think they might’ve been fine. The rear one could be re-used as although some wear was evident it wasn’t enough to bear the contact. If you have time, Rockauto in the States might be a good source.

On the Mk4 the sensor sits at the bottom of the pad...in the fork of its body: that’s on an original pad. There is indeed a recess at the front pads and it is different to rear. A small clip secures the sensors in place. the fork end is bottom/solid end with hole is top: these are OE in the pic.

It’s one per pair...should see the electrical socket and they are both (front and back) on the driver’s side. Fitted to the bottom of the pad at the rear. Can’t recall front 🤭

😂 I’ve seen both 2 and 3 year Lexus warranty: 5 years for hybrid batteries. My Lexus unit is over 5 years old now...🤞

I tell you what...if it’s taken me a bit to get back at fixing things under the bonnet...I might wait a bit for an operation or an airline flight. My MOT advised that my rear LS 400 pads were getting a bit thin. Following a horrid job replacing the fan bracket largely due to my rustiness and not wanting to strip down the engine front...I worried the brake job would be more of the same. A quick prayer to Saint Eligius with apologies if he only covered unionised or professional mechanics...I pulled out my toolkit. I managed to get discs and pads for £202 from Lexus Parts direct. I didn’t mess about with the carrier 17mm bolts undone with my medium torque wrench and hammer and spanner on the carrier. Big joy was that the whole assembly looked freshly or recently serviced...not bad for goodness how many years. 🤭 The disc retaining screws looked new and came out a treat. The discs came off without drama...I cleaned everything with a brake cleaner and non contact areas with a wire brush. The parking shoes looked in very good order. (You were right Steve). No point touching those. I used specific brake grease and only used copper grease for bolts and general contact areas. My trusty caliper compression tool made the caliper work simple. (I recommend as you can use on most vehicles and well worth having one). On completion everything was torqued up. The brake fluid returned to the max level in the reservoir and...without adjustment...the parking brake only needs 3 clicks. So thanks to St Eligius.

Well there’s no way you can’t get or repair this...a matter of finding the solution provider...

I'd try Lexus to see what they have and Lexus parts direct might do you a cut price... Other options are breakers... Or they'll be an aircon magician who will fabricate a new one probably using the brackets from the old pipe. I bet that will be cheaper than a new bit. US would be my get out of jail card. 🧐

I'm in favour of Lexus dealer supplied battery: good experience - they did the swap too on the spot - all part of the purchase. Having some experience of the blessed factory supply chain...a company might manufacture for another under a different brand however the specification might be very different and so the quality. Often you get what you pay for - or over-pay for.

An auto electrician declined to visit my stranded Jag a few years back...he was fed up with attending Lion battery failure. I was a bit sceptical. It was a leakage of voltage and this is often caused by systems not fully shutting off that often caused issues. The battery was mid life. Give Eurocarparts full credit they refunded me and I bought a premium unit. Problem solved.

About £30 each...

Yes they are called splitters. Ones for the laters cars are on Lexus Parts Direct...

Yup battery can cause chaos...check terminals are clean and lightly greased...top of battery clean to prevent tracking. Recharge. Spray wd40 on earth/ electrics to connectors near aircon pump and underneath this area where there is an earth lead bolted to a bottom bracket next to and part of fan carrier bracket...might need a clean.

Me too...there are some on scappers on flea bay ... you sure it’s not better to buy the x2 lower lips for each side and respray? 🔧😌

Err a few scratches 🤭😷😂 By the way the flickering dash lights....battery was flat. No probs before working on the car and I know disconnect before...depends upon what you are doing. If you disconnect earth leads/open door and boot etc the battery drains very fast. Charged over night and so far all good.

All well that ends well...sort of... Everything is back together. I had the studs moved from old to my hand for a tenner. I had to work the threads as they were varying in roughness from their extraction. Avoiding taking things apart cost me time and patience: I elected to drain most of the coolant and pop the hoses off. This makes access much easier. You don’t have to remove the passenger side cam sprocket cover but unscrew it, unplug one part of wiring via connector and unbolt the long front coolant feed pipe and move away...it will wee out a lot of coolant. The cover can be pulled away enough to gain clearance. If I had to do the job again, now...I’d be very swift indeed. Certainly I was rusty. The fan cowling is shot through age so I used copious amounts of superglue. The fan bracket side bolts took a bit of time to get in and I was worried about stripping them: there are a mix of 12 and 14mm bolts and I tightened and unslackened a few times wondering if the side bolts would go in. My conclusion is do them up but not to final torque/ lubricate those side bolts and push very firmly as you screw them in...they have a leading edge to assist their initial journey and seating. They take a lot of turns which can be alarming...they went home. Next job 🤭🙄will be rear discs and pads.

Yup - confirmed that the studs were missing and I've tried to be creative with allen bolts etc. but the tolerances are very precise - it's bad enough getting the nuts on with the original set-up. A small garage around the corner from me is swapping them over. I should have things sorted by Saturday providing the electrics behave when everything is back in it's rightful place.🙄

On to part 2 of the saga. Resigned myself to stripping down what was required. That did the trick and I removed the bracket this morning. Try as I might I could not get the studs to shift even using the 2 bolt method and think I need better bolts to try this technique. Of course the Gates kit should have some with new studs...from Rock Auto...but didn't. The parts box was well and truly damaged inside the shipping box...and it looks like the packet of studs has come out. This is the second time Rock Autos part box has been well mashed up. Now I'm stuck trying to get the studs swapped over or just get the Lexus part as quickly as possible.

Having some time and the weather a few degrees warmer I set about changing my fan carrier bracket on the 400. (Year 2000). I was prepared for some work. But the spanner gods were not with me. I ended up draining the rad as the top hose had to be separated to pull the fan cowl up and away. The bracket doesn’t look like it will come out with a lot of the pipe work out of the way. Do I really have to remove the r/h cam cam wheel cover? To make matters worse the dash lights were flickering and indicators not showing on locking up the car-ah I forgot I disconnected an earth wire under the car to get at a bolt. So I replaced it-and clipped the wiring connector onto to engine front: no difference. The Gates replacement doesn’t have the studs-any tips on how to transfer them- there are x4. The pulley etc goes over them. I’ve done a cambelt change...this is as bad. ☹️

Thanks to Bluesman and The-Acre I ended up in a very cold Brighton to at last, get to Grove Garage. As mentioned, Lee is ex-Lexus and the garage in addition to catering to all vehicles is badged up as a Toyota Specialist as indeed they are. Lee also repairs and fabricates exhaust systems. The entrance is small and tight but leads to a good sized workshop. They were very busy. Once the heat shields were off, it first appeared as though a quick repair would be in order with two leaks towards the front of the Y on both sides. These welded up but the driver's side section towards the Y would not hold the weld at all. Visibly all looked well but the metal was thin and as the pipes joined, there was hidden rust underneath and the weld kept pin holing. So it became apparent a larger repair was required. Lee fabricated a new Y section and joined this to the rear pipe and moved the muffler box a few inches back to get a better fit and weld. Total damage all in was £233. Looks good and tidy. At last I have a quiet motor and the correct back-pressure to get the smooth, full power delivery back. 😁 No doubt the petrol consumption will be back to normal - i'd taken a look at whilst trundling along at 60 mph and it looked a bit mean to me...a little off. Next on the list when I can get the weather sorted: have OE rear discs/pads ready to fit. Fan carrier bracket (Gates), ready to fit. Indicator unit ready to fit. Btw velcro is working well keeping old unit in place. I really have to sort out the dings in a few panels, the wheels and the front bumper that looks as though its molting. In our conversation on my 400, Lee said: "Don't sell it will you..." they are indeed rare and prized motors that will become desirable. It's got that shape that looks awful in some respects but in time assumes an attractive aspect. Look at the classics people crave now. No problem with adding my support for Grove Garage. I've discovered and met a garage of choice thanks to The-Acre and Bluesman. It is worth the trip from Reading: important to book in and agree timescales if you are coming from afar as this is a successful and busy busy business. I'll be using again.

Hi An off the hoof reply...it sounds as though you followed the new battery installation procedure...or I don’t think the car would start. But the car has to recognise the fob. My later motor (year 2000) requires ignition on and left for 2 minutes then off and then restart. So fob and system can sync. Settings ought to be retained. If in doubt reset everything and just for your own sanity put new batteries into the key fob itself. It’s well worth getting the owners’ handbook if you don’t have one.

Hi 😁 Was postponed and weather etc permitting I’ll be in on Wednesday. I must add I’m an essential worker and need the car to get to work and have worried about travelling at all...

Panic slightly over...lifted the rod firmly with bonnet ajar which undid the spring loaded hook. Had a better view of the unit and the screws and end bots are rusted together so removal of the unit will destroy it - shred the plastic. 🔧🧐

Hi Following the breakage of my aux bonnet release catch under the grill I now can’t open the bonnet. So the cabin release works ok but I can’t unhook it. Any ideas? Year 2000 LS400