Tinonline

(long post warning: please ensure you have you’re preferred beverage ready and are comfortable) 😁 Typical, after the hassle of working through a front wheel bearing replacement: finding a garage that would split the hub, extract and install and fretting about OE or non OE…there were unintended consequences. I’d driven over 40 miles and it was my return journey. As usual, the Lexus sat nav only knew the Roman and medieval cart tracks, so I ended up more cross country than intended. Some of my sojourn was spirited. Halfway point saw me detoured through Farnham in Surrey and on braking to a stop from 5 mph downward the ABS on the wheel with new bearing kicked in without need. It did it on every firm stop. There was no ABS light activation. Oh great, so I wondered what in the wheel bearing was wrong…incorrectly mounted? Wrong way around…? Except there’s no magnetic reader…dirt…as the bearing had worn in from grease? I tried again from cold this morning…same from a modest speed: it grabbed and squawked with the brake pedal flutter. Just on the one wheel. OK, so Google revealed this was a common potential problem with all wheel bearing repairs and sometimes brake replacement; but it wasn’t that easy to pinpoint a fix. My Drivers’ side front had a new SKF bearing with new nut and oil seal. I had spray cleaned the disc and pads on that side. Everything had assembled easily and I’d torqued up all bolts to spec. Nothing untoward occurred in the first miles post new bearing fitting. So I removed the drivers’ side wheel/removed the abs sensor with a 1/4 drive 10mm socket. A small bit of dirt sat indirectly - a little on the sensor head, the speed ring looked relatively clean. Using cotton buds I cleaned the ridged ring via the sensor mounting hole. It was lightly grubby. Then packing said hole, I took to my metal file and filed away the rust buil-up around it and the surrounding areas. I wiped it with a WD dampened area of cloth after blowing away debris. The sensor was cleaned with a cloth and tiny bit of WD on the cloth before wiping clean. I’m not a fan of copperslip, but I smeared this around the collar/seal of the sensor. I refitted the sensor using the handled file and soft mallet to work around the shoulder of the unit and pushing by hand I observed it was firmly home with a little of the copperslip squeezing out from the body of the sensor. Then to the untouched side. Wheel off/spray cleaned the discs and through the back of the caliper, wiped off the dirt. This time on removing the sensor I was greeted with a different sight. The speed ring was well greased and the sensor was covered by a decent layer too. Again using cotton buds I cleaned off as much grease from the speed ring as possible. Removed it too from the sensor. I repeated the process of filing away rust build up to a clean flat surface, used the copperslip and put everything back together. The sensors’ 10mm bolts were torqued to 7.8 Nm. by the way. I disconnected the battery and went away for a coffee. With the later LS400 after reconnecting the battery it’s a turn of ignition key to position ON so ignition and dash etc are on and wait for 6 minutes then switch off. Then you are good to go. All fired up so off for my test drive. I know the experts talk about different tolerances, too much signal variation between the two wheels on the axle, air gap from sensor to ring…and I’m sure that’s exactly what it is. I’ve equalised the sensors working environment I suppose. If they were both grease covered maybe that would have been fine. All is well and back to normal. Hopefully this will continue. 🧐 I reckon if you can’t balance it all up it makes sense to replace both bearings. But there again, given mine was shot for example, and it didn’t once trip the ABS, it does seem to be about balanced operating conditions for the sensors. Probably, I could have just worked on the non repaired side to achieve the fix. Hope this is useful. (apologies the photos are a bit rough)

Thought this might be of interest: Courtesy of Gov.uk website: https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/ Lexus E10 petrol is cleared for use in all Lexus European petrol models made from January 1998, excluding: IS250 2.5 litre V6 with engine 4GR-FSE made between August 2005 and September 2007. GS300 3.0 litre V6 with engine 3GR-FSE made between January 2005 and September 2007. LS460 4.6 litre V8 with engine 1UR-FSE made between August 2006 and September 2007.

Now back on the road. Although bearings don’t need running in, a few miles are needed to melt the grease and bed everything in. Now, you know I really crave OEM. My preferred route was OEM but too fiddly, over costly so I got the SKF kit for £55 (discounted and it’s well over a ton at some suppliers) for the bearing, oil seal, clip and retaining nut. Genuine SKF interestingly manufactured in Japan. Removal of old and refit was £50. Given time frame, hub splitting and service this is reasonable. So £105 all in. If you have the press or puller then it’s parts cost. I’ve seen this marked up as a really tough job…no it’s not. You do need the right equipment. You can’t bang stuff out with a hammer. Removing the upright was so easy: don’t take prisoners, use a decent size torque wrench to remove bolts. A normal ratchet is too hard work. I liked a US forum comment regarding tightening up of the upper control arm nut…”creep up on it…don’t let it see you coming…” I used my electric wrench…by the time that’s done it…(it’s not that powerful) I was able to use my torque wrench to finish up to the torque with no complication of the ball joint turning. I followed the service advice of not disconnecting the pad wear sensor line and opted not to disconnect the abs line either. There’s no reason given for this but logic suggests it might disturb the settings/feedback and I did run the engine to turn the steering so I could get to the brake caliper bolts. I don’t like copper grease. I’ve applied to brakes and mating surfaces disc to hub and hub to wheel previously…it has gone. Disappeared. So I want to take out the pins and pads and use brake grease. Funny for me…I always steered 🤣 away from working on suspension but Lexus Lego is ok…show it a big torque wrench and it’s ok. I know it might be different if you’ve a well driven 250k miler when age has welded planets together…if you need heat…do replace all of the parts. I did look for US parts…but eventually sourced from AUTODOC. Done that for an indicator unit plus my aged Alfa parts… As a final thought…£280 to £500 for a bearing change…really. This is a simple service part and replacement. Welcome to the plumbers and builders federation: “whistle…that’s a tough job…” The reply is: “no it’s not, I’d do it now if I had the x tool and I don’t mind paying for not having x tool but this is ok for me as a non pro…” VW used to sell on the ease of removing their engine for major work…yeh it’s just 4 bolts easy as (true). Then a little later: whistle…oh the engine has to come out for that. 🧐 Don’t know what I’d do without this Forum and the support…👍

Some progress on the bearing replacement: My friendly non franchise Merc garage didn’t have the equipment to help and a few garages ran away for cover…but UK Tekniks in Maidenhead who have a Lexus/Toyota guru on board gave me a quick slot for Saturday. With the upright in a small suitcase, I took the train to Maidenhead from Reading. I was back in under 2 hours. This evening I started to put things back together. I didn’t intend to to it all but make a start. In not very much time I had the upright on and upper arm on and torqued up. I used my electric impact wrench to drive on the top ball joint nut and used the torque wrench to finish it: worked a treat. ABS sensor pushed back in. I’ll fit the caliper and clean up the brake pads…I’ve used some brake cleaner already. Should be good to go.

Yes this the option I’m going for. Get it a place that will do it. I did part one of the job this morning. All went very well. To my surprise…and the upper arm ball joint seems to be ok which I didn’t expect. To get the nut cap or cover off I just firmly tapped around and levered with a screw driver and mallet. To stop the upper arm ball joint bolt from turning I held it with a thin pair of grips to get the nut off the last bit.

This is great: the later marque 400 instructions. Yes so a press is needed. Would one of the 5 ton pullers work, available on eBay?

I use Rock Auto and have a beef about their packing. Twice items have arrived in poor shape. Delco used to be a premium player and I wouldn’t have qualms with them. Also, The US is a good market as the legal stricture around deliverable quality is far tougher than here. Do check out AUTODOC and Micks Garage as they can be useful.

Oh I know I’ve taken so long to get to this. I was sure the LH bearing was going…all noise was on that side. I checked the balance weights, visual inspection of joints all looked good. Imagine my shock on a journey when under braking terrible scraping noise erupted from left hand side. Checked the mileage since last brake work…can’t be worn already…despite my driving style.🤭🤫 Then the terrible grating from driver’s side on slow steering on reverse…how I slept that night I’ll never know. Well, the terrible scraping was a corner, loose and hanging from the engine undercover…snapped and held by a single bolt. Sorted that. Back to the driver’s side front. Definite clicking on rotating the wheel. Creaking is from that side. Ahh…with hands 10 to 5 I can feel movement. How difficult to fix at a garage? Ok chucking it at Lexus but nobody else wants to know. That’s it. Fed up. A wheel bearing looking like a minimum of £300 to fix. Forget it. For now: skf kit with bearing, oil seal, nut, snap ring comes in at 60 quidish. Either someone will deign to fit it for me or I’ll take the thing out for disassembly and reassembly. I could do it…but I don’t want time and complication of sourcing the tools. Or more cost for a one off job. The Lexus service guide shows hand tools deployed…can’t see a 5 ton press in sight…tempting…

I’m going to have a thorough look once again...my diagnosis is usually very fair but this has me a bit at odds.

Come to think of it: drivers side with click click noise rotated freely. Passenger side where I thought issue is: sounds like brakes rubbing and does not spin so freely but maybe not brakes...

At last now the weather is with us I jacked the car up. Neither wheel had any play, however the drivers side had a regular click when I spun the wheel. I was sure the vibration noise was passenger side but I suppose it might just seem that way... Nothing is catching and brakes are recent and in good shape. Surely has to be the bearing? Completed an oil change too so that’s for another year.

Most manufacturers’ franchises run a fuel system cleaner through on a mid to full service. Lexus sell a fuel additive. I put Redex in about once a year to clean the system and injectors. I’ve used a catalyst cleaner after a failed mot for idle gas levels...fixed with no further issues since. Very likely it cleaned up the O2 sensors too etc. A premium fuel would probably afford the same benefits?

If safe to do so...run with the auto air on system off for a short time. The needle will soon point to a warming engine...then all can be switched to auto... Fastest way to warm up engine.

Hi I had same: Lexus Parts Direct (Fish Brothers) https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/trade-homepage/ will sell a discounted Y section genuine part. Then you need to get it fitted. My ATS were prepared to do this but I opted another route. or... Call Grove Garage 01273508606 they are in Brighton - they can fabricate or repair the y section and fit: they did mine and many other forum members too. Ex Lexus and are very reasonable price wise.

£15 That’s a lot for a battery change...I buy known brand from wherever I can get it. Change it when you can’t remember doing it last. My LS400 fob is a tiny bit fiddly in that it needs a tiny driver and a mixture of firm delicacy. £40 for a watch battery...🤔and not diy able. That’s anti EU... yep we signed that before the end and it stands.

Hi Malc Yes they have their magic! Mine is an old 1995 Sport with a chain driven 1.8 - had the head-gasket done a few years back. It's an LHD and sits in a garage in Spain for most of the year. Now a classic, it feels a bit long in the tooth but it goes very well, has aircon, and we've done a lot of mileage in it. Wife is Spanish so we have roots there. Handy when fixing the car. 🙂 Parts are expensive - labour cheap. Before Brexit I shipped parts from the UK. I'm not going to get the needed 3/4 exhaust system into hand luggage...🧐 Simon

Hi I’m wondering about the wheel bearing. My fridge freezer motor is in the process of packing up...please bear with me...😉 Now I can hear the high end damage of the bearing motor-but it is also creating a low bass droan too. Tyres are Continental 16” diameter...balanced a while ago...I’d expect feedback through the steering wheel yet all is good. Same with flat spots...I’ve had those funnily enough on my Alfa 155. I can’t get it up on a jack until the weekend.

Ahh quite right on the value. Classics World comment: "As a modern classic, the LS400 may lack the visual appeal of a Jaguar but their legendary reliability makes them a very practical proposition." Jags are works of art. The LS400 won't make the value for an investment. If Jags had Lexus build quality - and were as easy to work on...I'd be Jag. 😊

Hi I'm nearly up to date with proactive maintenance although I admit I need front upper carrier arms. Last job was rear discs and pads that are now bedded in. Next job will be annual oil & filter change: Lexus oil is now priced more competitively than the Euro brigade so i'll be on the Lexus Parts Direct site. Problem: - Cold morning I noticed for the first time a bass level drone resonating from the front end. - Now seems ever present although sometimes more noticeable than at others. - Not tyre noise as I can hear that distinctly and vary over different surfaces. No out of balance symptoms. - Speed range 40 - 60 mph. - It's not engine related as engine speed does not effect it. - Breaking does not seem to change it either. - I get a general slight/low level of vibration - but not through the steering. - Tyres are up to pressure with 4MM+ tread - a bit more fronts wear outer edge but I've had worse. - Once I had the sensation it was front of vehicle passenger side. It's nothing obvious and unlike me, although I will fret on it, I'm inclined to leave it until the issue clearly identifies itself if it doesn't drive me mad first. Any ideas..? 🤪

It’s all very confusing and like the vaccine assessment turning around. Lots of “experts” about. Self-proclaimed scientists. Most oils are excellent quality. Use as recommended...why use an additive to compensate for engine wear? Maybe the engine needs some maintenance. All accounts state fully synthetic is superior to conventional oils. How on earth does a liquid stick to moving parts over static...please 🧐 oh yes we have a specialist who can blind with science. Cars don’t like being left...even over a really cold weekend. It’s not just the engine waking up...it’s the pressure in the hydraulics, fuel system...noisy injection tapping out like a knackered engine, the VTI waking up too. Not to mention the suspension, drive train...and us-the driver. Oh and the pulleys the wheels and belts. Bah humbug. 😉

I had a couple of BMW 635 coupes of the ‘80s which were very nice. But head gasket, rust, rear swing out under hard cornering, tyre grip from cold (limited metric choice) awful. Passenger in the old 3M series lhd this is a racing classic with amazing grip on a wet road... Owned a modern one but average. Jags...done them they are expensive scrap. Lovely designs. Best was 95 XJ 4ltr. currently looking after my eldest son’s 2007 clk 350. Nice car. Just after the appalling engine failures...yet solenoid magnets x4 need replacing as per usual...not expensive at 30quid each but please what of quality control? He’s peeved as it’s “slower” than my 2000 Lexus 400 🤭😁🔧

For the Mk4 LS 400: 1999 Lexus LS 400 0-60 mph 6.2 Quarter mile 14.6 🤫

Take it from a few of us on the Forum...check the dealer price and take your motor there...if they are decent they will swop it over for you too. Job done and OEM.

Hybrid version?

The red light does flash permanently so that’s fine. Lexus are not known for draining batteries as a rule where components fail to shut down and cause the dreaded drain. A light won’t pull that much juice if left on but a faulty earth would. I’m not trusting the battery so checking that is the first step. Then the alternator.