Tinonline

This is a tough call. In the scheme of things the cost is…OK. You may not want to think about the unrealities of insurance should someone shunt you and write your car off. High maintenance costs are a complete loss. Gates kits are ok. I’d prefer Lexus and would source abroad. Where Lexus parts are just outrageous I’ve stepped away. When these lovelies are worth money then it’s time for OE kit. Brake parts btw, OE can be got UK great price. My 400 was overdue a belt change from its original at 70k miles and well over 10 years: it was ok but showing distress: some bearing play, water pump ok…I had just bought it so changed the lot. Gates kit at US stupid low offer price. Next time everything will be changed and it’s true OE will just see water pump and belt…everything else will wait for the next change.

This is the advisory: Offside Front Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Offside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing Also Worn. (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Nearside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing Also Worn (5.2.3 (d) (ii))

There are options as Steve says Rockauto in the US and euro suppliers that might take a bit of research. Trick is to ID the exact issue so you only fix what’s needed… I recommend a no panic strategy: careful of Lexus dealers: they are good but you pay tops. But good for batteries, tyres, and some online OE services like Lexus Swindon online fab for OE parts.

Year 2000 LS 400 only advisories were tyres…no I wasn’t happy with even that. But mot.er noted condition and underneath was clean and great condition of car. Last year’s work: rear discs and pads, driver side front wheel bearing, oil change. Carrier bracket. I did brakes with OE, plus carrier non oe good quality and OE oil and filter. Good quality non oe bearing but SK made in Japan. Tyres are ok but they are being picky and that’s correct… 👍🙂

Some company will advice on conversions I’m sure. I did wonder if E10 introduction impacted the current shortage… Did refiners just add a bit more E to existing stock? How long and complex was that?

Oh joy…we’ll I’ve a few Dinky and Corgi 60’s super cars and have never found the late LS400….yes I’ve looked😁👍

The usual side effects impact the fuel system seals, components etc. The engine will run ok. I’m certain a one off or few more uses will not cause harm; long term use would be an issue: a lot of motorists including myself, are doing modest annual mileage and have opted to keep using E5 although it means higher costs for the Premium fuel: I had already decided to stay off the standard unleaded. My late 400 is cleared for E10 but while I have the choice I’m going to exercise it!

These early motors have more service parts than the later 400’s. I’m thinking distributor parts and early teething issues. The later 400’s are the fastest in their class so performance is delightful 🤭. Any 400 is a great choice - they’re not cheap or free of maintenance cost though. Glad I can wield spanners and do most work myself…not all…but it’s a judgement call isn’t it.

Here here: the petro chemical industry has had years to come up with viable alternatives but has failed. Like the tobacco industry, they’ll pile and bail out stashing their cash in to the likely winning tech or solutions… I wonder where the trad oil producing counties will go…back into the grains of sand they came from?

Steve is the expert here. If you can: I’d strip down and re-seal using new gaskets and seals. Not mechanically complex, rather time consuming. That pink residue looks like some leaks but could be over spill. Do replace the coolant reservoir cap if it’s it’s worn or old. A little leak of pressure over time will drop the coolant level. Even carefully filling and bleeding the system needs a few miles and recheck/top up to stabilise the coolant level: after that it doesn’t move.

This is interesting… I thought that it was the fuel system: joints, seals, pumps, injector seals and internals that were prone to wear and damage from low grade/E10 fuel and anti knock is critical…that’s core engine performance and sustainability. So how then can % performance and economy be less with the new E10?

Yes I’ve had a rethink…agree with the comments and will be sticking to E5. I do modest mileage. It’s greener to keep older cars on the road than scrap them to build new, particularly with toxic, inefficient battery tech.

Annoying…how old is the battery and what make? Could be a circuit left open but I doubt it…good to make sure boot light is out when shut. Turn it off and on…disconnect battery: wait 20 mins reconnect and do usual Lexus dance and procedure…this will reset systems and ecu. 🧐

Tricky…It’s come in quickly…I’ll do a bit of both. Later 400’s can run on it - no additive needed. As per above most except above will be ok. I suppose this has been in the works for a long time so manufacturers have future proofed their vehicles? I don’t understand the exceptions though on this basis. I’ll run it and see if I can notice any difference: pinking, temp variance, performance changes and mpg etc. 🧐

In that case normal servicing and cleaning will suffice unless you get an MOT advisory or a warning light…or you want to proactively change stuff because you want to get your hands dirty and make use of an offer you can’t walk away from…🧐👍😆

Looks great. The market seems to be stiffening for the Lexus and if I follow my usual timing I will have sold or out aged mine just before they get a great return🤭 I think I’ve mentioned before aged, good condition luxury motors tended to be priced by the trade at between 7-8k for many years. Not sure what the thumb rule is now.

Feel for you…in worse case you can source a recon unit or new from one of the big global suppliers that source OE so it will be well priced even with tax and shipping, then get a friendly garage to fit. I’d use mot as a diagnostic point. You can go for non OE but it’s work ensuring it is still quality. I faced similar dilemma with a £300 -£500 quotes for a wheel bearing. I wanted to buy OE bearing for 70 quid from Arayama or whatever they’re called but sourced an SKF quality kit (made in Japan) and got a known Lexus savvy garage to fit: complete price to fix £105. You are on 70k miles? I’d be surprised to see major failures generally…

Yes I’ve often been ok with aftermarket but had a bad experience with squeaking pads that proved to be a quality issue and an Indy Merc garage saying that they’d had similar and just stuck to OE. OE Lexus are part ceramic so I wouldn’t say without any noise but tend to not fade and you know you get a given quality. My XKR had incredible braking, so much so I had to not to brake hard late generally as a car behind me would not be able to do same if they hadn’t kept their distance…or were paying attention…many years ago I collected a Vauxhall Cavalier on to my Porsche Targa 911 spoiler as I full stopped at traffic lights. OE is great as it fits, lasts and performs well and is a no brainier if a price deal. I know this gets tough when prices are at super silly…I’d look at US and ensure ceramic content…not cheapest…

I thought I was a heavy braker but missus slams em on …. For what it’s worth: front discs can go to 90k but just worth doing before if your pads are ready or you’re getting shimmy or they’re plain thin. Rears about same but will have less pad changes. Pads go for 30 to 40k miles and you’ll have the warning light on when they’ve gone beyond useful life. Pretty good until the end… The pneumatics usually compensates for wear. If you’re not happy you may want to get your master cylinder and servo checked out. Or use the MOT as the diagnostics. That’ll give you very exact braking efficiency stats. And hopefully faults.

I’ve used Brembo and they’re good. Got a front pad set for my Alpha 155 sport and that’ll stop so well the body will leave a couple of subframes in the road…😁 also on my ex car XKR. But I’d only buy from reputable, well known distributors. Brembo have come in to the mainstream so I do wonder about who owns the brand and at what cost vs quality given to expand. The OE give excellent mileage and performance. The price deals mean it’s worth replacing discs after a few pad changes…especially at the front.

Check Lexus Parts Direct in Swindon https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/ I’ve bought OEM fronts and rears at very good value.

Indeed - had it been a later model - that button would be the passenger injector seat...🙂

Sharp bit of marketing? Our age group most likely to buy a caravan to lug behind our motor? 😁

To explain😂left of thumb is the sensor covered in grease … it’s not obvious if you don’t know the part! T’other one was clean: not grease covered.

Pads and discs no option but in pairs. Shock absorbers same. Springs you should too. Coil on plugs on some cars like Jags : all of them … wheel bearing I believe is a unit by unit replacement if the mileage is moderate.