Tinonline

I’ve finished the job…applied paint. I had another look at Lanogard and see that it has to be applied annually. So I’m happy with my choice. Kurust is very good and a good brush into and onto areas difficult to brush that do have heavy rust scale works very well. The suspension bars have the most rust with everything else in good shape.

Yes if it’s as good as claimed. There’s not much in terms of required coverage as the car is very clean underneath…and Kurust spreads very well…so for a few quid job done.

MOT comes up next month for my year 2000 LS400. one of the advisories was for surface rust around rear chassis mountings. The tester recommended an application of something like Kurust and that would suffice. A rear chassis bar crosses just behind the diff so that’s where I placed the jack and a 2ton axle stand. I’ve managed to mislay my wire brush drill attachments so hand held wire brush in hand… I have to report that the underside is very clean with surface rust in places and more on the rear suspension components than anywhere. So I feel the advisory was over reported and did not warrant it. The Mounting bolts and area were in fine condition…not worthy of a wire brush. Anyway, I applied the Kurust to the subframe and various joins and hangers that I could reach. Also did the same to the rear springs that had a few blemish areas. That is more than required and will do the job. However, I’ve some hammerite type paint spray I’ll apply next session.

That Y pipe…you can buy at a balanced price (not stupid but it’ll cost you) from a few suppliers. I ended up with a fabricated section all fitted for less than 300 quid. Agree with posts, check the part numbers…can yours be saved by the way?

Later ones are in the low ‘6’ 😁🫣

I don’t use the new fuel…there’s no need…

Not driving much at the moment and from memory, the battery can take this. But, mes amis, went to turn it over and not a flicker. Removed the battery in quick order - it’s less than a year old Lexus one…charged it up over night. I recall my wife saying maybe it was an internal light but I’d not taken any weight to this. On reconnecting I sat in the drivers seat…oh the rear off side cabin lights wouldn’t go off…what? Shut the drivers door again and restarted…same. Went around to the offending side and pressed the internal light button…started over again. All good. Under cross examination in the living room I found the last person to drive the car was my wife…ah Hastings…the reference to the internal light. Now the confession…wife is looking after/nanny to a neighbours little girl who fiddles with every switch and button…. Therefore that little thing in all innocence, pressed the internal light button and that flattened the battery. The driver’s responsibility mes amis, was to check the vehicle on lock down. Like the Conservative party…procedures were not followed. Right…

Well the market like all energy, is an oligopoly…limited to nil competition, fixed pricing and UAE for petrol: is fixing the market. They’re all in it together. where I am it’s around 1.40 per litre. Vote with your feet/tyres. Even if you pay more…if you’re doing few miles it won’t make any discernible difference.

OK you are a genius and consummate problem solver…doesn’t give up…take my hat off to you…👍👏👏👏

That’s a plan…obviously you’ve checked no one in UK could do an ecu rebuild…must be some magician tucked away…🙂

Hi Forgive me for asking…what’s the cost implication of such a repair? Simon

Could be anything…worth replacing anti roll bar bushes and the upper bar cam adjustment rod bushes too as they will go with age.

Steve is go to here. I’ve an advisory on oil leak from my steering rack but so insignificant it just requires cleaning up…can’t detect fluid loss or loss of performance…yours does sound like pump and as Steve says you’d know if there’s a belt failure. Looks like pump. But do check aux pulleys and belts visually…ensure no oil leaks or belt contamination.

You can validate the mileage and get a good idea of condition and maintenance from the Government MOT history website. Vehicles still need oil and filter changes so lack of service should be reflected in the price. My method of buying is to get the lowest mileage I can, although there’s a price premium. Any work required is worth the investment for long term ownership. Optimum balance is 70k to 80k miles as a Lexus is barely run in!

🤫

Oh dear…the wheel bearings are not an easy replacement and Lexus would charge top rate. The suspension downlink needs removing…(easy)…bearing needs to be removed from hub (diy if you have equipment) cost of bearing can be stupid. But it all adds up. You’re at least set for a long time now…

I have same from my MOT and I’ve noticed this is now a favoured advisory as I’ve seen more feedback on this topic. Rear coil spring on one side and rear chassis mounting points on my LS400 year 2000 I have a wire brush, drill and wire brush attachment; kurust bottle, hammerite type spray paint. Cost is time and effort plus £14 paint and kurust.

I’m surprised you can’t reprogramme the unit in situ…inspite of security measures: or that Lexus can’t. Is the solution to have to hand over the unit to a specialist to take care of the process/ or replace capacitors only so as to avoid the issue? Or do as you intend given your knowledge and capability.

I’m not going anywhere Malc 🤣 looking after the Merc as it’s my sons and wife uses it. I’ll buy it when opportunity arises as it’s worth keeping.

Glad you will stick around…these cars do require age related repair and it feels like the Forth Bridge paint job keeping up…even if you don’t run it much. Im on Merc forum too but have laid off it as the design is not as good as this one so doesn’t encourage interaction. The vibe ain’t a comparison. My wife actually stated the CLK350 AMG style pack does not drive as well as the Lexus…that was a watershed moment I can tell you. 😂

OEM is no guarantee against disc warping but I’m sure OEM is the best route … possibly the complaints are due to non OEM? Lexus pads have a ceramic content so are good at dissipating heat. Front suspension takes a lot of weight and low mileage does not stop deterioration of bushes. When we can replace with OEM at around £200 or less per axle, given the quality and length of service it’s a no brainer. Sure do it for £120 but what are you buying? Appreciate that labour will up this if you can’t or don’t want to diy.

Very ready to eat my words. As Malc alludes we have a number of doesn’t stack posts from trade…we’ve seen quite a few and this ticks boxes…the language is a ringer…let’s wait for specific vehicle details and a dialogue. Don’t hold your breath. 🫣😁

Well the poster joins Wednesday and posts…smacks a bit of trader bought a dud? Trade always says car won’t start which equals was broken when they bought it…and you don’t miss a belt or related break…there’s a big instance. So my advice if this is the case is to sell “her” for spares. It sounds like the later Lexus from the updates referenced. It would have to be low mileage for engine work.

Hang on…best to have a definitive determination on the cause and damage. Garages like easy work and fast turnover. Maybe they’d like to buy the car and fix it. A home mechanic could do the work but it’s a labour of love and may take time and money. Less money if good at buying. I don’t see any answers to our questions posed.

Sounds more like a snapped cam belt… Should be a few units around with ok mileage…the bodywork/ chassis took most to an untimely end.