Tinonline

Ah these are Optifit so not as premium as Oe part number according to Toyota themselves. But better than non Toyota. Now, take a look at BluePrint prices...you can get rear discs and pads for approx £89 free postage. What to do?🤪

Nice but worn driver’s seat bolster at that mileage? Maybe on my Jag with its high supporting seat...can’t tell as the dpi of the pics is poor so I can’t expand the image to check the interior. Shame that trade gets hold and sells these vehicles...rather buy from an enthusiast. Looks fab...tyres are low profile on LS360 wheels makes it looks ride height look high? I look forward to the learned comments we will get on its MOT history from my Forum friends. For a straight car...that’s far too cheap.

Ok cheers I’ll take a look👍

Well the fronts are done and I’m bedding them in. Braking is smooth, effective and quiet with the Lexus OEM discs and pads. I might as well do the rears as it looks like around 6000miles difference between previous changes without sacrificing the brake sensor. From my fave Lexus source even with a discount pads are £76 and usually the rears are cheaper. My fronts were miles cheaper than this. I’ve got one pad change before the discs are replaced. The only other so called Toyota Oe is the Optifit at £55 or so that’s not exactly OEM but to Oe and validated by Toyota. They can be made by a number of manufacturers. I’ve been sticking to original parts but wonder whether I go for either Optifit or Blueprint ones. BluePrint can be had for 30 quid. I’m surprised by the lack of OE stock available in the UK online at competing prices given I got the fronts for a bargain 190 quid discs and pads. I’m pee’d off by adverts saying OE quality in their ads stealing the OE search results when they are anything but. 🧐 Simon

Oh Birmingham UK. Thanks Colin M 👍 yes I believe it is Connor. Lexus parts are best bet or if you can’t swallow the price good brand will be ok. AirtexWells are big players and US is highly litigious so generally stuff is ok. Your Lexus units have done good service. I try and keep to OEM but have a Pagid brake sensor, Continental drive belt, BluePrint air and cabin filters, Gates cambelt kit and pulleys, water pump. Thermostat non oe. OEM: front brake pads/discs; spark plugs, oil filter, clips, bolts, washers and drain plugs. Battery. Bushes. It is difficult to justify high cost parts on a car that is worth so little...or is it? About time we had specific safety standards and manufacturing reports on components.

Hi Darren You have a few options: if you have time and the exchange rates and delivery don’t spoil things, Rock Auto in the US are worth a look. Don't give up on Lexus: Lexus Birmingham will post and are prepared to give a 25% discount. Breakers are a source too. What mileage has the motor done? simon

Job almost done with a new screw required and I’m going to renew the speed sensor clip as it’s past it’s best. The pins, shims looked ok and I cleaned them up and applied copperslip to the surfaces. To remove the screw, I used a large drill bit that took the head off. Applying WD40 to it I removed with grips and thankfully it came out very easily. Pad wear was even and consistent on both sides and calipers were in good nick too with mileage now at 84k. Pressing the calipers back was tougher on the passenger side and they need to go back enough for the shims to fit with ease. Checking the service records, the rear pads won’t be far behind and to preserve the sensor, I’ll do that job soon. I reckon that the rear discs will take another set of pads before needing replacement. It’s a satisfying job that can turn into a horrible one when bolts and screws are frozen solid.

Happy New Year! I tried heat but that didn’t do it. I had a back up plan. I drove a couple of miles to a friendly tyre and exhaust place where they’ve looked after my mots for years. Bit of beer money and they did it in a few seconds from the ramp. I’ll remember your tip-oh that would have done it. I have a mangled screw that holds the disc on, I’ll have to drill it out...always something otherwise this would have been a straight forward job. 🤪

I’ll do a write up with some photos on this as what the guides only tell you is a straight forward “how to” not wtf do I do now guide. I’m fitting Lexus discs, pads and if you get your brake warning light on, that sensor. I’ve done discs on TR6, Renault 25, Porsche 911, BMW 635, Jag XKR, etc. etc. My Mk4 has a complete 4 pot caliper unit; one wear sensor on the driver’s side as standard. There are x2 anti-squeal shims each side against the calipers and x2 clips that squeeze under each pad. I used a punch to work out the pads as pliers or grips could not do this. Tapping out top and bottom with a hammer. The caliper bolts on driver’s side were “just beautiful” as Trump would say...then one retaining screw came out like silk. The other? Stuck fast and I changed Phillips driver options as I dare not risk shredding the head. More WD40. Then, when you least want to go, had to eat lunch. (Good time to break though). Post rest: I used the big end of the punch and gave the screw a number of sharp bangs with a hammer. Finding a snugger fit driver, much to my surprise without any effort, the screw released. There was no point completing the driver side without fitting a new wear sensor so I set about disassembling the other side. To be continued: seized upper caliper bolt. My high torque impact wrench won’t budge it, I can’t get leverage... Ordered the wear sensor, charging the battery over night-it’s cold and I’ve not used the car for weeks...I’ve got a heat gun thing for the weeds that will put some heat on.... What they don’t tell you in the guides...🤪

Merry Christmas🍻🎅 Sounds like a bottom hose or radiator leak forcing water and steam out in the steering pump area. I can’t remember how the reservoir return is routed. To get a good view you need to either remove the lower engine cover or the plastic covers, air channel at the top of the engine. You should see coloured powdery deposits from the leak area and if lucky dripping coolant and evidence of said leak. Now I’m assuming your engine is running fine and there’s no water in the oil if you check the oil level or signs of salad cream deposit like stuff in the neck of the oil filler cap: that would point to a blown head gasket on the bank on that side. Have a good look with a torch...thermostat area and under...check water pump gasket as it’s a biggish area and anything coming from the engine might point to that. 🧐

Merry Christmas🍻🎅 Sounds like a bottom hose or radiator leak forcing water and steam out in the steering pump area. I can’t remember how the reservoir return is routed. To get a good view you need to either remove the lower engine cover or the plastic covers, air channel at the top of the engine. You should see coloured powdery deposits from the leak area and if lucky dripping coolant and evidence of said leak. Now I’m assuming your engine is running fine and there’s no water in the oil if you check the oil level or signs of salad cream deposit like stuff in the neck of the oil filler cap: that would point to a blown head gasket on the bank on that side. Have a good look with a torch...thermostat area and under...check water pump gasket as it’s a biggish area and anything coming from the engine might point to that. 🧐

I was surprised with the performance of the LS. ive stuck with Continentals. They work but have to be in good condition. You know I own a Jag by now...**** if you don’t have Pirelli’s they’re a handful, If you’re a snail go economy. If you drive sensibly but do more miles then pay...but shop around. Lexus say they compete with others...check them out. I don’t work for Lexus...looking to keep the boat afloat. 😀

So how much are the Redstuff pads?

Call Lexus Birmingham and ask for a discount I got mine for £65 but the biggest saving was the discs. All In was £195 and try getting that quality for that?

Yep, ambermine, I’m with you on this. Might as well fix that rad at the same time. I did not have to remove the rad for my cambelt/pulleys/water pump work...

If you do the work yourself I’d try removing the airlock by running up to temperature without the reservoir cap on with heater full on highest setting. Shame to do a total refill if you need a new rad...that’s the solution. I’d link the water pump change to cambelt but not the rad...if that makes sense. Do the rad. Irrespective of water pump😀. That little hole in the rad could be repaired but it depends where and what it is and the general condition of the rad. As ambermarine says as it cools the rad sucks in air.

Yep if that’s your advice that’s what I’d do too...

Hi Graham Even with discounts these are hefty fees. Your issues are not insurmountable but I agree with my friends you need to collect the car and do some research. You haven’t mentioned how you are with a set of spanners... There is a LexusToyota indie in Maidenhead. Sorry can’t find their details. I haven’t used them. They will fit customer’s parts. I don’t know if they will source second hand parts, smart disties do as they see the value of the car vs repair costs and they get the all important labour...fair enough btw. That’s what you need... Look forward to reading how you get on.

Yes it’s not part of a cambelt job. You are in a different place. ive not seen a guide to overhauling one either.

Graham please do keep us informed and keep posting: there are loads of great minds and experience here that will respond as soon as they can. You have a great car and once these things are fixed you will probs only service the thing for years.

Oh that’s a shock to the system. Suspension parts and repairs are very normal whatever you drive so that can be done by an independent if you want to keep costs down. The big bit is obviously the ignition...I would be sourcing through a breaker...get the lock even you have to pay quite a few bob for new keys...from Lexus to match the lock serial number. Any of my forum friends agree/have alternates? Also, have a look at buying from the US...

Yep it’s finding the gems and they’re out there.

LHD used to be non wanted low value...but if you want a Lexus registered in that country then it’s a start. Bonkers money. Might be interesting if a late Mk4 but only well under 100k miles.

Well bless your mechanic. I’m a fan of OE but it’s expensive and for brakes, plugs, oil filter, I have stuck with OE. Admittedly the £ was good but went for a Gates kit TCKWP298 that had everything needed and I opted to replace the Idler pulley and belt tensioner too. I had a Circoli thermostat that I fitted having good experience of the manufacturer previously. The kit I bought from Rick Auto including tax an delivery. Noted a couple of pulleys were OE manufacturers...hope the spec was the same...😉 All went on smoothly. Please shop around as there are chancers and blagards around...whilst I respect Blueprint...I can buy OE for cheaper than that brand from the Lexus dealers. If you want original then call Lexus Birmingham and ask for a discount and best price...no I don’t work for them but I’m a repeating happy customer...burp😀

Ooofff I think we all do...