Tinonline

Yes but we know some discs and pads squeal as they are of an indifferent quality and this does catch out garages. My Merc garage had to give up with a supplier as the same pads were clearly different from the dealer so they had to revert to the dealer supplier. Bless them they are max to the profit. My non franchise Jag dealer fitted **** filters at the same price I could fit the real thing. That’s why I do as much as poss myself and try OE unless it’s theft.

That’s a good and very direct question. Half the asked amount. Given only the belt needs changing. But it won’t be: you would change the drive belt and pulleys, thermostat, water pump, cambelt pulleys plus labour. You are buying so factor Lexus pricing for OE parts...they should pay you for taking the car.

Few dents and dinks? You should see mine... Get a full MOT on it before buying...check cambelt history and elec and air con. Get price right down.

Linas well said I wrote that and deleted it: the “have they fitted the anti squeal shims”...great minds. I suppose on new non Lex pads they might not fit or be seen to be needed. Good that they will take a look.

Well if you’re not happy or concerned you should pay ten a visit. They might be bedding in although my Lexus setup didn’t make a sound. But my Mintex set up on my Jag was dreadful in all braking but then stopped and are fine now. You could find out what make of parts they fitted. If that’s all they are doing, noisy in reverse, probably ok.

Sounds like a sensor or MAF failure. Only clean the throttle if it’s clearly sticking and dirty, a little dirt is ok. Also use throttle body cleaner as there is a protective surface film easily damaged by abrasive cleaning agents.

I’m with Colin. You mean £7.30 each..? My OE was NGK and I replaced with Denso. I shopped around hard and got an ok price. Bear in mind they last a long time.

Hardest blades are Jag S as the clearance is rubbish and well it’s a simple job that defies logic. I put rubbers onto the LS arms and it was ok. What’s going wrong for you exactly?

Having fitted new front discs, pads and having completed an oil change, and...sorting tyre pressures-I drove to Cardiff via Stroud from Reading. There was no shimmy from the front wheels and I kept up with and in front of the flash driver’s both ways. I still need to sort the lower track bar bushes and probably the lower ball joints. I also have to replace 2 tyres. Most motorists have to pay for extended warranties now because of repair costs. Cars ain’t cheap whatever marque they are. It certainly helps doing some of the work myself but sourcing parts is valuable too.

Yep but you need to sync the key to system again and turn ignition key on go 6 minutes then turn off and you are good to go.

Yeh I got a pair of struts for ok price. Easy to fit and it’s one of those step by step prop it open jobs. Those clips on the air filter...and the housing...I remember in the old days...one nut, cover off Bob is one’s uncle. 🧐

You’d think it should be easy peasy. I slightly damaged the casing getting the thing to do what it should. Mine was a BluePrint filter but recollection recalls the unbelievable stupid design of the unit, in an inaccessible position.

Oh that’s the steering wheel...to steer. I just use it to hang on to and wiggle like they did in the old movies. I thought the satnav did the steering.😳

Steve, Steve, Take a moment. Deep breath. You don’t “need” the options. Since when has this held any real relevance other than in justification for a purchase? So, if you want the car, the extras become a need. If you really can’t rationalise your need for these valuable baubles...next level is “nice to have” as the car is exactly what you need anyway. Always buy up, as those extras will help you sell on in the rare event you sell a Lexus. Oh and how they make you feel better. Unless you’re a pokey dealer. Then you really don’t give a ****...you just polish it, and over sell it. You know those adds that make the features look like their extras when they are standard. That.

Well they are fairly new so as expected give years of service.

According to other posts this is not all that it seems. Buyer beware, here be dragons.

I used my electric impact wrench followed by torque wrench. After a few miles I’ll recheck everything.

I used my electric impact wrench followed by torque wrench. After a few miles I’ll recheck everything.

Brake job is done done now with replacement of the disc retaining screws, cheap at a quid and a bit each plus the sensor clip which was an immodest £10 approx. Correctly torqued up the wheel nuts. All done.

I finished a tube of Carlube copper grease and it was ok...only ok as it seemed too runny or just not a quality consistency. A tube of QX stuff from Euro car parts though is much better and it’s good stuff. A bit more like the old copperslip branded grease I was accustomed too.

Sorry to be a pain...they are not supposed to be lubed. Held firm with no slip/movement. What make are the roll bar bushes? What torque have you applied to the brackets? I use brake cleaner for getting rid of debris and grit, things that can cause friction and noise. They might have settled after bedding in.

Yep and the shims need copperslip too...

Firmly tight. There’s a few things I don’t use one of my 3 torque wrenches for...this is one of them. Nice long bolt with a quality gasket so it seals well.

Very nice...🍻👍

Yep worth checking to see if anything has parted. Mind you metal can sound like rubber when it’s a mind to. Put it this way I don’t think you’ve caused damage...how about the lower stabiliser bush that does the camber. That gets truly pulled when you drop the suspension.