Tinonline

Good choice...there are plenty of available OEM and alternative parts for a 400. I have used the US a couple of times when the exchange rate was better😁 and sorted timing belt, all pulleys and water pump for under £300 for Gates parts. I fitted these myself. Recently I replaced the front brakes with genuine parts. They’ll last for ages. I’m biased but I think the MK 4 is the one to go for. Check that the belt has been done. The wheels are always an issue. The alloy breaks down. A genuine low mileage A1 vehicle is worth money although we balk at the prices: Good one’s go for 2k to 5k but most are trend lower as they have mature mileage. Just my opinions and there’s plenty more experience than I have on the forum...

As always wise words here in the replies so here’s my half-penny worth. If you don’t want to do anything given the work...sell it on. I have same dilemma with my S type Jag which is just such a b to work on. I’m fed up and want to get rid but it’s wife’s charriot. Gearbox needs work and aircon pipe is a good £700 quid fit and despite my prowess 🤭, is not a diy job. Tell me that’s not going to be a stinking great classic as a 4 ltr. But in whose lifetime? Or, run and do essentials: some years will be worse than others. I ‘d have to spend 2k to on paint, dents, wheels on my LS 400 but boy the rest is very good. If I, we, just put away per month, a good amount for repairs etc. We’d always have a budget. Only if life was so simple... This issue is why cars get scrapped...what a complete waste of resources. Get 2nd hand parts except obvious: brakes, suspension joints. If you can work on some yourself and have a realistic mechanic/body shop you will be well served. Ok, so don’t think about the value of the car. May be more about the cost of running a vehicle with repairs...even new cars have that. I pay less when I hear of £1000 repairs to modern motors... My LS 400 cost me £750 quid. The Return on investment...depends...but no capital loss really. I’d get that back.

Good luck! If you get stuck this forum will help...👍

Certainly take a seat. The good news is a perfectly serviceable second hand part, cleaned and if you dare, painted will be yours for a few quid. Fitting a few quid. Leaving you many hundreds of pounds to invest in a new chair to collapse into when you persist in calling main dealers. I do buy OE parts btw. I lie down before the call.😂

There must be a colour code somewhere on the car.

Might be the same one...

No really...a repair is a new core inserted not just a solder repair. Good as new.

Is it surface rust or real corrosion? I’m surprised given Lexus build quality you are experiencing this. Bodywork can get caught but major structure in quality cars is a bit unusual.

I have had a few rad problems over the years. I went to a little trader who liked cash but could repair any radiator. When I look back on it he was a bargain. Yes they can be rebuilt to A1 standard.

Well it certainly appears to be a bearing problem: you might have lost a strip of balance weights?

It’s not a premium colour combo and “gold” as I call it, is a tricky colour. Great condition though on the face of it. Price is ahead of the market😂

I got mine from Eurocarparts with the applied discount, whilst this still cost £40 quid it was a better price than most.

Exactly same...but what you need to know is that they are Sht. So to refurb them you will not be advised to get them recut but to respray them in a silver paint and lacquer to last longer. I don’t know...build one of the best cars on the planet and mess up the wheel quality...🙄

I agree...probably ok if the dealer is bothering to sell it...obviously a trade-in. I don’t like the sound of them trying an as seen bit but I wouldn’t haggle over £250 but I would ask for a new water pump! Mileage is no issue as my friends have stated. Get a full MOT on it as that will pull up any issues.

I'd change them for that "peace of mind" state and you can then forget about them for a long time. They are awkward considering in the good old days whipping plugs out was a few minute job; although you had to gap them... I used a myriad of tools and extension bars - all tiny as possible to get the leverage. I did not use any grease on the threads going back in as per factory. I've attached my guide...I used Denso. Changing LS 400 Spark Plugs.compressed (2).pdf

Cars were fitted with either Denso or NGK I say that as my ls400 at 72k Miles had shot ngk’s with no evidence of plug changes in its Lexus service history. I got my Densos in a sale at Opie oils. Good value and fit for tons of miles.

Yes Kwik Fit might be able to help. If it’s a pipe they can fix. Seems like leaking servo or master cylinder or rear caliper seized but I doubt caliper.

Sorry to hear and sometimes the impact has taken some toll although surface looks ok. Be prepared and don’t let the insurance company do anything until you have made the call...good cars get written off for nothing because insurers can’t be bothered to process the claim.

I’d be a bit surprised if it is the diff. Plenty of rubber bushes or UJ worn more like. Not always easy to detect.

Yep second that...lovely new sump plug...I believe the worse case price is £15quid for a filter...

Hi I don’t think you’d find the OE too expensive There is one letter difference from those made in Japan or China and they fit from Feb 96 on. 90915-YZZJ4 is OE made in China for Toyota/Lexus cost me £11.99 from Lexus Birmingham.

Really? I took mine off in a cambelt change and it was not one of my issue items...what was the problem? Just seized solid? If it’s that trollied maybe a new unit is due. I thought bleeding was easy...from earlier post...I mean you don’t need leeches or a blood letter...😀

The testers and staff always praise Lexus 400s when I roll up for my MOT. One advisory: ball joints are leaking grease but there is no movement in the joints. Certainly need to replace them and I’ve yet to sort out the lower control arms too. All else is good.

Malc ha ha! Isn’t the criteria for owning the older marques? Only those with a not so great memory may apply? 😂

Fair point Steve. Wouldn’t be fair on us and breaks the rules. If you have something good to sell it is worth buying the Gold membership.