Tinonline

My Mk4 needs a new coolant reservoir cap. It’s now pushing 90k miles and 19 years old. Fits ok but the unit rattles... Also I’m loosing coolant, not a lot but I suspect it’s more on cold short journeys...the cap is probably venting over time. I haven’t topped it up for a while. No leaks and the water pump is not too old. I’ve tried to replace before with a First Line part, it didn’t fit. Just would not go on. I didn’t like the quality at all either. This time, I bought a QH part checking again the fit to spec. It didn’t fit. No way. It’s made for other applications and I don’t know if the Mk3 is different...adding the Mk4 to the list is incorrect. I’m hoping to source one from Lexus Birmingham as they give a discount...it’ll be £35 instead of £42. Quite a strong amount. I reckon I got a seal as I applied Vaseline to the contact surface and rubber seal...undoing it the next morning there was a short hiss of released pressure...no I don’t believe it’s gasket failure pressure...😁 Did a fabulous 200+mile trip on Saturday and as usual the mainly motorway mileage was eaten up in comfort. Anyone had this issue?

Hi Given that there’s nothing amiss with your suspension...you’ll need to get it to a tyre place to straighten via the steering arms and check the geometry. Some shops have difficulty in getting it right so test it before you drive off...mines a tad off and it’s like looking at a picture, crooked on the wall.🤪

I’d go and get it tested. It’s the cold test/recover rate whatever they call it that counts. Test will find a failed cell too.

Every time this piggy went to market to buy a battery...local Lexus gave me a good price and unit does the job. I don’t do much mileage. The spec and cold start specs are spot on. On wife’s Jag I had a well known carparts co battery and suffered voltage leak. Also...it’s a known Jag fault so I freaked a bit until an auto elec said...no don’t buy those batteries. A common issue. I wasn’t sure but said auto factor were very good and replaced unit with me paying few bob upgrade for a premium unit. Result? Sorted. Careful what you buy.😉🤔

Oh sorry to hear. This is tricky. Batteries are good at expiring at the due time. Disconnected batteries probably last the same time as a working one. I know it’s not logical and I stand to be corrected. I’ve had great batteries that do well with little use connected up...and bad ones. Lexus ones are ok. I think 3-4 years...just buy a new one.

That’s a brake switch sticking or plain worn out...

I didn't have the nerve to try the very cheap ones you can pick up - they are probably ok. Mine was a branded one, Pagid I think for around £40. If you get to your pads in time you don't need to replace them...🙂 A few folk do too much work around removing them and not replacing and rigging the circuit to remove the light... They're a useful function and worth having.

Sound like the brake wear sensor itself. As the pads get thin it rubs away the sensor exposing the connector to make the metal to metal circuit that trips the light. The sensor is finished at this stage. Replacing the sensor will fix this.

Time is money when you need a fix. You have to pay. With a good fix then that’s it, for years and years and miles... some fix themselves some get the parts and get it fixed, some get it fixed upon them... yes that’s a la Shakespeare (Twelth Night)

Needle is ok or you can buy a tool for cleaning and repositioning. I recommend this as it’s less likely to damage the pipe or unit. silly question...sure they’re too high? They have to hit the lights at driving speed and they will spray up over the bonnet...that’s normal...might pepper the windscreen too.

Tricky...inSpain where accident rate is horrific both my sons 18 and 22 get cheap insurance on an Alfa 155 Sport in red with spoilers and it’s a great car. In the UK my 22 year old gets quite cheap insurance on our Jag S 4ltr. Which was a complete surprise to me although it is on our policy... Don’t get hung up on no claims...get driving. You can get your own policy when economically viable.

I've done my rounds of brakes. Disaster with Pagid set-up on the front of my Renault Laguna - couldn't get them to stop squealing. I was selling the vehicle anyway so off it went. Textar on 1979 Porsche 911 Targa & BMW 635csi - good braking & wear. Mintex on Jaguar 4ltr S type. Squeaked a bit as they bedded in but are really excellent in terms of braking & wear. Brembo on XKR - Brembo calipers on the Jags are poor quality - the alloy expands and blows to such an extent you either replace them or have to file down replacement pads to fit. Stops so quickly...in an emergency you'd probably collect a line of rear end shunts as you stop but nobody else behind you can! I was wary of hard breaking at junctions... Lexus discs and pads on front - Mk4 LS400 - perfect. I've got a full set of Brembo pads to go on my 1995 Alfa Romeo 155 Sport - it's a L/H drive out in Spain. That's a whole story on its own.🙂

I agree with all comments. There’s a figure for not quite classic but lot of motor for the money motors...it’ll be priced up at £7,995. I might pay a negotiated amount off this for a Mk4 Year 2000 in the right colour and a dealer history.

The age is what you least need to worry over...just that there’s no hidden faults. MOT history check will assist here...🙂

Get OEM as they last forever and are perfect. Even dealers do a good deal. You do have to shop around.

I agree with cruisermark. I bought some lower ball joints from RockAuto in the US. I don’t get the cheapest: they’re Beck &Arnley. You need to factor in VAT and tax plus fee. I try and fit OE but some parts are excessively expensive.

You might be better off getting a new float as a 2nd hand one could have some years on it. The float itself looses it’s sealed coat and saturates so turns into a sinker. The light for low fluid stays on. They’re around 70 odd quid but at least will last about 20 years. I confess I took a wire off mine so it shows on ignition and goes out but that’s it. I really must just replace it. Some folk repaired theirs but I couldn’t get mine to recover.

I got rid of my 4.2 XKR with its notorious and shocking ZF gearbox same unit that plagued Range Rovers and BMWs. Build quality was poor and the coil packs went, rear shocks with 50k on the clock. Wife’s 4ltr S type is awful to work on with corroded a/c pipe and very difficult to cure cam cover gaskets that are a major pain job. Split header tank 2nd in 70k history and replacement thermostat housing with improved aftermarket unit, two water pumps and front and rear suspension work. This has a Ford gearbox and it needs a solenoid...can’t go on. Oh yeh and coil packs... Lexus 400: cambelt, water pump pulleys, front discs and pads, I’ve got ball joints and need lower bar bushes.

On the button as always Malc👍😂

Wow that’s a red rag😂 I have a long and current history with Jaguar and Alfa. I didn’t expect to be with a Lexus for long but I saw the light. I find the forum responsive, very polite and open to debate and incredibly supportive. I’ve been talked through a couple of stuck points on a cambelt change. Sorry to my US friends but US forums are full of know it alls, the need to redesign stuff, thread hi-jacking is a complete nightmare....all marques. what more can I say?🧐

Not sure if it works on Lexus but does on a Merc: disconnect the MAF If mid or rough running goes you have your culprit.

Looks great...

Sorry to be boring but given the importance of tyres: yours are old and near end of life...of course you would change these at the earliest opportunity. They don’t wear completely evenly so can easily cause or contribute to issues. Front discs do warp so if they’re old... Lower control arm bush is a weak area... MK 4 will fly through an MOT like mine but I know I have to replace lower ball joints: leaking grease but solid = not good enough and lower control arm bushes=look okayish = shot.

Car looks great too...😂