Tinonline

I've heard of the alternator popping under contamination from steering pump failure. Some components become consumables after age and mileage have consigned them to pass their life: most suspension bushes would be in this category. MOT should identify visible wear but a surprise failure could be a dodgy, sub standard part... Would be interesting to ID early vs later models.

Welcome back Pete. 🙂

Argh this is annoying. Careful spending money from now on. Agree try swapping wheels but if you’d had them balanced they should be ok. I bought and fitted good quality new discs but have a bit of shimmy under some braking conditions...oh well. OE parts... Mine went away with lower ball joints and lower suspension arm bushes at around 80k miles. Also a track rod end drivers side was replaced. The lower Control arms were very worn even at modest use and mileage...the years count more than or as much as the miles. Original equipment. You’ll pass the MOT for example but it doesn’t mean you are at optimum... Sounds like your car is in good order but worth checking aux belt, steering fluid but I think suspension bushes/parts most likely culprit.

First time I've heard of variations for the earlier engines...always worth a double check with the supplier. Agree with Malc on Gates & AISIN my jury is out on BluePrint: not cheap does fit but to me quality looks over-stated. Some years ago I bought a Gates kit from RockAuto in a sale at a very reasonable/low price. That had water pump, belt pulleys, tensioner and all the required gaskets. Very pleased with quality and fit. If i'd fitted OE (with the mileage I do) next time i'd just fit the belt. As is...i'd probs just do the whole lot again. Simon

Well Peter - good job... I do hope your work and substantial cost saving is appreciated. I fear that the tariff level for car repair is lower than say painting and decorating/doing what one is told/supporting other half in a pointless argument with off-spring... 🤧

Pete so sorry to hear this and very glad to hear you are up and about. Give yourself plenty of time...difficult when you want to get back to normal and get on with things. Yep I disconnected mine some time ago too after failing to repair the float...just kept it topped-up. I got the part from that Ayama site or whatever it's called - some parts are expensive but the float from one of the suppliers was around 1/2 price. Came in Lexus parts box and was identical in every way. It's just one more thing to stop a long list of repairs forming! I'll be interested to see how I get on with the MOT. I failed on emissions idle last year and fixed it with a bottle of cat cleaner and a thrash around a business park for 1/2 hour. Also I have a clunk at the front that I think is the upper arm. I've had new ball joints and lower arm bushes done...drop links seem to be OK. I'd like to get at the rear brakes before the light tells me too... ☺️

As threatened some time ago...feels like months...I spent some time on my LS400. The delay was a case of coronovirus...living close to London and me commuting with a son also travelling proved to much. In a way I'm glad to get it over with I think as long as I don't get it again. My two boys at 24 and 20 got through it well although wife and I did well but it hurt. I had some nasty afters though and ended up collapsing in Tesco and spending a night in hospital. No driving for 6 months...docs think it was post viral infection or post covid reaction. Looking back I tried to return too quickly and was running again...too soon. All ok now and I'm on a good 5km time and my running training is back to normal. Moral of the story: take your time with this b****rd - symptoms vary btw. Lasts for a while too. Task 1 should have been the MOT but by the time I was ready...the world and country was not...I'm not forcing one now, if I need a garage to fix something...that won't work. Task 2 was an oil and filter change so with OE filter and Shell Helix that was a straight forward job - sump plug gasket was OE too. Task 3 air filter change was really easy and differed from my previous experiences: I paid more attention and tried to move things as little as possible. This resulted in this being a painless task with the case fitting together easily and quickly! The outgoing filter after less than 5k miles and one year old looked pretty mucky. The engine side was much better so clearly it was doing its job. Certainly this is an annual replacement and my urban living clearly doesn't help. Task 4 replacing the windscreen washer level float switch. I bought this a while ago for around £40 OE from abroad and with no postage so a bargain. Now this was fiddly and I ended up removing the very tight new seal from the switch, fitting it first to the base of the tank, then pushing up the unit through it. It takes some polite force and I feared damaging the float. To get the seal over the lip of the base of said switch means pushing the unit up whilst pulling and folding over the bottom of the seal. Done. All works and I suppose time will tell if I've been too rough with the unit.🧐 Some time ago I fitted a new coolant expansion cap - coolant level looks unchanged so I'm happy with that. It had moved lower over time in the past: there were no leaks and the engine is on 93485 miles with no signs or expectation of anything more sinister going on. That'll keep things going for a while. Hope you are all well. Keep safe. 😷

They get bunged up easily. If you don’t use them from time to time and forget they are there...

This might sound a bit strange...I think we are getting warm(er) weather on Sunday. You might get a better response as the cold goes away. My car is in similar straights and does short haul shopping run. I haven’t had to charge the battery yet...the engine doesn’t even get fully warmed up. Giving it a mini service this weekend.

Oh I can’t go out...I’ve been very good and haven’t driven for a month...wife has...for the food run...

Hey Malc and Roger It is true that the MOT might not pick up the upper arm fault but as the MOT says it is minimum requirement...you know me I want it very good. The fuel suggestion makes a lot of sense and I will do this. I run it on Tesco stuff with their Premium once in a while. But there’s plenty of experience that really rates the Premium fuels.

Well I don't know how you are. Hopefully well. My family has been down with some bug but we've no idea if it was the Covid or another - symptoms can be so similar to other viruses...whatever it was it was not nice. I'm just about still working although I reckon I've a month maybe weeks from being furloughed and given I've been royally screwed most of my working life...I remain unimpressed. 🤣 I'm coming up for my MOT which I should get. My Mk4 LS400 had a near miss last year with idle CO2 not in range - a new air filter and cat clean bottle and a thrash around fixed that. If that comes back up I'll need a new O2 - I think the front passenger side one usually causes trouble? This year they may find the clonking upper arms which at 93k miles need replacement...I'd rather not order anything at the moment unless I really have to. What I do have in the parts bin (the boot) is oil, air, oil filter, plug gasket. I'll look to do this work at the weekend when the weather will pick up. Another task I can do is fit the washer float I bought from a far distant country some time ago. It'll get me out of the house and a change of scenery...I've also started running again but boy is that painful... 😵

I don't have an answer other than I'm sure the pins will be the same and fairly standard. Carriers could be different though but a part number search on line will give you the answer although may take a bit of digging about. Is the old bracket written off...don't tell me it's sod's law and you can drill or get the old bit out...😪 The big beef is most places are closed at the moment but...you can order stuff on line. Worse case order from the US to get the part you want. I'm only ordering in-extremise at the moment i.e. I've stopped. If it's your only mode of transport etc etc I'm sure you'll make the right decision.

It’ll come from a big tub of premium oil...my local dealer uses Shell Helix.

My new Lexus sources went in April 2015. Saying nothing so as not to tempt fate. 🙂

I'm with Malc on this. I shopped around comparing cold start power and having to ensure size and terminal position...ended up with one from local Lexus dealer at an ok price. Worth checking with your dealer. It's not worth getting a bargain brand: been there and done that...ended up with a refund and paying more for a top name. (On the late S Type Jag that I scapped at 73k miles,,.it stopped a slow drain that was plaguing me...).

Looks a decent car and the mileage is fine. Certainly is a classic. Have you had a look at the Mk4 or datewise 98-00 last of the line? I think they all suffer similarly with front brake disc warping, front suspension, cambelt and this looks harder to replace over later models? But you have it covered.

Like Malc (hi Malc 😊) I have one side UCA playing up but the other is ok - driver's side is not happy. If buying from abroad with postage it's probably worth getting the pair. If you are on a budget and cashflow is king - I'd get the best you can afford and only do what is required - the one side is fine... The-Acre rightly says tax and admin charge will add to the bill; so needs to be factored in. Nevertheless, Rockauto are very good value and have plenty of choice. I don't expect to claim on warranty as from experience wherever you are...UK included, this can be very difficult at the best of times. I use the warranty info to get the best I can for the £/$.

Part sourcing is a major exercise and we are poorly served in the UK, no doubt about it.. I try and retain Lexus parts wherever possible - but there is a fair and reasonable limit or value to a part. I have no issue buying from Rockauto and I opt for quality over price. I breached that principle last month, probably for the first time and I could have done better...paid £70 for wiper blade refills and a coolant cap... oh the pain, the pain...at least the parts manager was good enough to fit the blades. Then I got a windscreen washer float from Amayama... genuine article for £38.30 all in so that was a win. Next shop is for upper front suspension links - looking like Rockauto for these...

😯it's a bit of a job to get out...I trust that is true: I always reply to these statement: "What?! Naaah - I would do it but I can't be bothered it's not challenging enough - should take 10 minutes tops..." Reminds me of VW selling on the fact repairs were simple as you could get at everything in/around the engine by whipping out x4 bolts and just disconnecting a few wires and gear linkage out came the complete engine assy.. This then after purchase turned to a "plumber's whistle": 😧 oh that's a job...we'll have to take the engine out to do that... The Indy repair shops are great as complex repairs like electrical units, amps etc that could cost a lot to replace even from 2nd hand parts come back good as new for a reasonable sum. Hope you get sorted soon.

Thanks for your replies...I might try a nut splitter if it’ll go on...I’d have to remove stuff for a grinder and buy a grinder...I’ll investigate further.👍🙂

Given the milder weather today here in the tropic of Thames Valley, I set about changing the drop links. I can get a 17mm socket on the lower nut but even with my electric torque gun and WD40 it won't move. I thought if I could get it moving at all, I would then use a spanner and allen key or bit to hold it. There is very little room for the spanner. To me it looks like the bottom ball joint etc. has to be dismantled to get proper access It seemed a bit pointless pondering and fiddling so I drew a halt. What are the Lexus manual steps for this job? 🥺

Thanks to you both...I do have the roll bar bushes...yep and the Allen key have a key and impact version sockets...will use axle stands and my jack...

Hi Having had the lower arm bushes and ball joints replaced I've experienced much improvement. The light knock over bumps has not gone - although this was not my reason for replacing said bushes and ball joints - they were at or beyond serviceable operation. I've bought a pair of front roll bar drop links as these are likely to, either be the culprits, or require replacement anyway. (Rock Auto - Premium choice: Proforged at £63 all in for the pair). Question is: What are the exact replacement steps? Doesn't look the same as earlier cars... My 400 is Year 2000 (at 93,000 miles). Bar above bits all original. Any help and guidance would be much appreciated.

Well these barges...the Mk4 is quicker than the v8 Jag S type as I had an S type...scrapped at 73000 miles...