steve2006

Very nice....the fact that you had a decent example to start with helped I think, the one I recently purchased from Phil was in the same condition and to be honest I’m struggling to find anything I can do to improve it. Nothing like the lawn mower stripes in the carpet and you managed to get that carpet just above the footrest clean. Did you remove and clean the black coloured outer arch trims as they harbour muck, 4 philips screws with a chubby if the wheels are on. I had my bonnet gas struts re-gassed at SGS in Derby for £17.00 each retaining originality. Just checked to find it’s below 50,000? and never had an advisory, never mind a fail on an MOT! Wow. Care to disclose the price paid, I doubt it was quite the same bargain as mine and tell us more about the “reluctant sale”

Looks like the set in the middle picture of the website you posted, bear in mind they are for LHD models so beam pattern will be wrong for UK and unless approved will not pass an MOT. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anzo-121199-ANZO-Headlight-Set/dp/B0038AVBDY

Talking of French cars and their electrics I just googled the car and the second listing was a wiring diagram 😀

New bumper cover and light cluster listed around £500.00 from Lexus plus paint, you will also need the correct colour code for the cluster. If the engineer hasn’t been yet how has your insurer already written the car off?

Do you still have possession of the car or has it been taken to the “approved repairers” and Cat S? I would take the settlement on the grounds that they allow you to retain the salvage ( i.e. you get the car back for a few hundred pounds), take it to a decent paint shop and have it repaired. Continue to use it. The bumper should mostly knock out with a heat gun, then fill and paint, new or used light cluster, repair, repaint rear panel and a bit of chrome trim...£700.00 should be about right.

I’ve always done my own but have trolley jacks and axle stands, do not go under a car just on its own jack! Basic tools required, hardest part can be the filter removal but all in all a 3/10 easy job. Link is for LS400 but is similar http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lubrication/oilchange.html

Wait for it....the buyer’s regret and actually seeing the car may yet swing the compass needle north. The other one mentioned with a starting price of £1600.00, no MOT and a failure list taking up 2 A4 sheets is the new watch item.

It certainly is Hugh, my other “daily” was a company vehicle which qualified me for “classic” insurance on the 1994 but of course the NCB expired, Adrian Flux actually allow 3 years instead of the normal 2 but again I was well past that also. My “Classic” insurers Footman James wouldn’t even consider the 2004 Celsior even as normal insurance cover so I’ve left that as it is. At least I can use both cars now although the 1994 will have to go soon due to lack of garage space.

When I did mine on the LS I did a drain and refill five times so used 10 litres of fluid, I didn’t get all the old stuff out but it certainly looked better afterwards. I did the drains over a week to allow the fluid to circulate and mix. Last year it got 2 more drains over 2 weekends and the colour looks fine.

Sorry to disappoint you but a 2005 JDM Celsior with 290 BHP available and a 21 year old driver is going to cost you big time and £2.5k ain’t silly. I’ve just insured mine, the problem was that I have had “classic” insurance for the last 5 years and my max NCB had “expired” so I had to start from zero. Most companies wouldn’t even quote me, one insisted on a Thatcham alarm being fitted even though it already has the equivalent and another required a minimum of a year’s NCB. Adrian Flux were the only ones to offer me a quote without the above conditions, OK limited mileage, that’s no problem but the premium was double what I last paid on “normal” insurance on the 1994 Celsior. Also bear in mind I’m 62 with a completely clean licence.

£1600.00 starting bid with an MOT failure list as long as your arm are these people on the same planet!

If the screwdriver has gone rusty inside the boot and there is mould inside the cabin what is under the car like I wonder after spending “95%” of it’s life in a garage which must be located on a flood bank.

It is, never seen that addition before but appears colour matched. More weird is the “I haven’t got the time and skills to fix it” but what seems to be an air intake jubilee clip sat on the driver’s seat so someone seems to have had a go at fixing it. 15K now up to £7600.00! Finishes today, 2 bidders seem to be in the running, I wonder what Ladbrokes are offering on the winner pulling out, the runner up declining a second chance and a re-list.

Does it look like this? If yes it is a 921 type bulb, if double filament it’s a T20 bulb.

For comparison this is mine at around 94,000 miles.

Certainly a better punt than the “15K” offering, if you want to see a prime example of an early model check this link out. Works out around £7500.00 https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1992-toyota-celsior

Were you anywhere near Blantyre?

Is there any coolant in there, I can’t see any green or red? Ignition wire cover appears to be missing? Battery clamp looks weird. How does the tool set screwdriver go rusty? 15k miles of wear on the gear selector knob? I don’t think so. This is going to be interesting.

When I passed my test in 1977 petrol was 68p a GALLON not a litre, used to put pounds worth in at a time but it was a 1960’s Mini Cooper......now if I still had that one my pension fund would be a lot better 😀

I’ve not had mine very long so can’t really provide a comparison, my 1994 model has always followed tramlines and both cars appear “sensitive” to poor road surfaces and potholes. Never felt out of control but a bit jittery. Also bear in mind that most of the front suspension components have been replaced and fully aligned on the 2004 model so certainly nothing amiss there As for the tyre wear, yes I would have the alignment checked as I have never had uneven wear patterns on either car.

The very top line of the diagnostic page also mentions that the system is activated “when the auxiliary battery (12 V) voltage drops” Given the location of both modules ( engine bay and boot) I doubt the wiring loom has been checked. The power supply cost is bad enough, the skid control computer cost virtually writes the car off!

Wasn’t that the same year as Laker Airways went bust? I guess you’ll never get repatriated now 😀 Welcome to the LOC.

Hi Joe and welcome to the LOC. Depends on what you need....aftermarket air and oil filters will probably be available but no guarantee of quality. If you want to stick to OEM try amayama.com. What parts are you looking for?

Apologies, I did search the shed but didn’t have one, I thought I had messaged you to let you know.

Radio backlights or radio backlights and other button backlights out too? If the latter then yes there is a common cause.