steve2006

Is this any help? If not Herbie is still an active member 😀

It sounds like someone has used his mate’s gas-less MIG welder and watched a few Youtube videos. 😀

Have you seen the advisories......must be that puddle in the garage it spent 95% of its time in. REAR TRAILING ARMS BOTH RUSTY REAR SUB FRAME RUSTY Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i)) Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e)) Offside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))

Yay......now if I could only predict the weather as well......final answer.....re-listed.

Obviously dependent on the vehicle price but for £189.00 may be worth it.

An unknown to me scrapyard asking for a reg number and my postcode for a quote.......err no.

One thing I have never really understood is the max BHP and RPM, do these figures mean to actually get the maximum power available you have to red line the engine every time?

It does but is a separate unit bolted to the right hand side of the transmission just before the bell housing. The engine coolant radiator is just that so new rad and coolant is all that is required.

Looks like southern Spain maybe, the only salt on the road being the time someone dropped their tub of Saxa on the way home from the Supermacardo. Mine is similar mileage now at 96k but 6 years older, it’s early life in Japan, a dry garage and yearly under wash helping with preservation.

Ii now use RRB (Red Rubber Grease) on the calliper slide pins, very thick and sticky, doesn’t wash out and doesn’t affect the rubber dust seals. Only need a thin smear on the pins. Mine is now 27 years old at 96,000 miles and never suffered from a “seized” calliper which are all original along with the discs. A small tin is around a fiver and will last you years.

The old fashion relay or “Flasher unit” was a 3 pin bi-metallic device but like most things have now gone electronic and generally involve ECUs so unless you are competent in electronics there is no way to test but having fitted 3 I think you have eliminated that part. If you were local I would have taken a look for you but the auto electrician is now the route to take I feel.

Each indicator bulb has its own earth so 6 earths altogether and the chances of all of them failing at the same time all over the car is very slim. The problem is to access the earths to photograph each one would probably mean removing the front bumper, wings and boot interior trim. If you have checked the fuse I suggested and it is good the fault would point to the flasher relay unit. Perhaps a visit to an independent auto electrician would be the best solution.

No problem, I recently ordered a touch up kit for mine, genuine Toyota and comes with the paint and lacquer, perfect match.

It’s got to be the paint, the change from cellulose to water based. Just stick an oil painting (Lexus Painting by Numbers) and a water colour picture (An East View of Chatsworth House) out in the rain and see what happens. Bring back Leyland “Harvest Gold” Allegros aren’t the same without it 😀

I want to see what the French manufacturers come up with, the very first line of exclusions. (1) Electrics, including anything electrical, anything with electrical wires, anything with electrical plugs and sockets, anything to do with a battery be it electrical or not. Let’s go French 😀 (1) L'électricité, y compris tout ce qui est électrique, tout ce qui a des fils électriques, tout ce qui a des fiches et des prises électriques, tout ce qui concerne une batterie, qu'elle soit électrique ou non.

No problem, glad to help. Lexus UK prices then......full retail + 40% + VAT 😀

The paint codes appear to be the same, mine is 923 Lexus Dark Silver but has the slightly darker lower sections. This is what my paint shop guy gave me. Below is a link for all the 2018 colour codes. https://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_paint/Lexus/2018-Lexus-RX-450h.html The other alternative is to visit one of the professional paint suppliers who will generally match the paint colour either with charts or electronically and then make a touch up for you.

Here’s one for you Zak, the Celsior boot mat, but again try finding one.

The ultimate mats are the ones for the Toyota Celsior, twice as thick and heavy as the Lexus versions and 100% wool, these also include the rear transmission tunnel mat as well complete with velcro fastenings to the floor mats. Unfortunately now as rare as rocking horse ****

I recently had my roof resprayed as over the years the lacquer had “crazed”. My paint shop guy said it looked like the car had been given a quick flash over probably before leaving Japan. Nice job done all smooth and shiny again.

I’ve only ever had one brand new car and that was a company Ford Fiesta Popular Plus ( the Plus was a clock!). There is nothing like that new car smell, you sit in the car with your eyes closed and just smell that “ White semi aniline leather with silver inlays” 😀 If only Airwick could capture that smell and spray it out every hour.

It sure has, on mine it’s fairly straightforward on yours read on for additional requirements and complications.

Not something you would expect at a specific manufacturer’s dealership but at the end of the day could happen. In this case it appears to be human error but given that cams are normally locked to prevent movement during a belt change (SST Special Service Tools) or at least marked for correct orientation incompetence springs to mind. When you mention the cam gear was “one cog out” I assume you mean it was one tooth out? Regarding a letter to the MD has anyone already apologised because that and “ we will investigate” is all you are likely to receive in response. Ombudsman normally requires the company complaints procedure is followed first. ”Goodwill” What are you expecting? They certainly won’t be offering cash compensation, they made a mistake, it took 2 attempts to sort it but they did it. For your “inconvenience” the normal offerings are perhaps a free service ( do you really want to go back there?), fill the tank with fuel and valet the car or an invite to the next model launch evening. The one thing I would get is a written report on the cause of the problem just in case there is any long term engine damage as a result, I wouldn’t have thought if the belt was just one tooth out there would be valve to piston contact or camshaft damage but get it in writing just in case.

The exploded diagram doesn’t show any fixings and I seem to remember they are attached with double sided adhesive tape only. To aid removal I would suggest warming up the piece with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive then use as you suggest plastic pry tools. You can also buy “label remover” which is an aerosol spray and softens the adhesive which you could squirt inside once you get it started. Obviously once removed make sure all the residue is cleaned off, isopropyl alcohol is good for this then allow to dry and wipe over with a clean cotton cloth.

He has 😀