steve2006

I would certainly be asking CV questions and for an explanation, goods and, in this case, services should be covered under the Consumer Rights Act and therefore must be as described and fit for purpose, Failure to disclose additional owners I feel doesn’t meet those requirements.

Very nice! Good luck with the sale and the 14 pictures saved you writing 14,000 words😀

Was the work carried out in any audio area, dash removal for example, just thinking something may have been disconnected and not plugged back in ?

I bet it was the passenger side coil pack Phil, located in the most challenging position and gently heated by the exhaust manifold 😀

The only other thing I can suggest is follow the tow bar wiring loom back from the external socket to where it enters the car then remove the trim on that side and take a look for a fuse.

Also add in the statutory winter fuel price increase of 10% apparently due to the usual causes of wholesale price increases and shareholder dividend requirements.

Although checked this video suggests it’s in the engine bay fuse box at 3.30 minutes.

Try coating the screws with thread lock compound, the one that stays semi set ( red coloured?).

Could be worse I guess! Kwik Fit! ”Could you check my windscreen washer fluid please?” ”Certainly Sir I’ll be back in a minute” ”I’ve checked Sir, it is low and needs topping up, would you prefer Castrol Magnetec or Shell Helix?”

Hello Jim and welcome to the LOC. I’ve moved your post to the correct model forum, hopefully you will get more responses here. A few more details would help us help you as Vlad mentions. Hopefully not a reverse battery polarity incident! Common problem is the main fuse blowing, rated 150A located in the engine bay fuse box. Unfortunately not a push in and out but hardwired, they are bigger than a standard fuse with a clear plastic window so easy to see if the link is broken but not easy to replace. Looks similar to picture below.

Adrian, take this with humour but your last paragraph sounds like a right PITA 😀

Just had another thought ( I know 2 in a day!). If components on boats can be protected from water and salt ingress why can’t similarly exposed parts on cars have the same level protection? Another example here are the internal corrosion issues with ride height sensors.

Obviously this part is being manufactured by someone as a separate bolt on item but to be not available as such is unacceptable, it’s like a head gasket failure, the gaskets are manufactured but not available to purchase, you need a complete new engine. However this situation however is nothing new, some early LS400s suffered from a clogged mesh filter on the steering rack solenoid. This solenoid was easily removed with a couple of bolts to take out and could then be cleaned and refitted. If the solenoid had failed however this was not available as a separate part and the complete rack required. Finally another example are the side privacy blind hooks in the LS430, these become brittle, the mounting posts break and they fall off. Held to the door trim by 2 screws ( so completely separate ) they cannot be purchased as such, the complete trim needs to be replaced at a cost exceeding £100.00. Fortunately having a similar attitude to Paul I repaired my hooks with some Araldite rapid and longer fixing screws.

Unfortunately a month to 3 month delivery time from Amayama.

What’s the set up in the USA Malc, heard of “State Farm” insurance so is it Government controlled or free market ?

Dan perhaps being in the insurance business you could explain to members why you were unable to help with insurance?

This may help

Here you go 😀 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153004825001

Going back to the 1970s there was a weekly televised “TV transmission report” which gave details of ongoing engineering works. Betws y coed transmitter tower always seemed to get mentioned. Always wanted to go and see where it was and a classic car show would have been an added bonus. Any pictures of the show?

Not in a vehicle but from my experience with LCD TVs it does sound like a fault with the display. The normal construction is to use a type of gold bonding to connect the screen to the ribbon cable, referred to as “tabs” these connections over time can break causing the lines you now have. Repair is not possible I would go for a good used mirror as a replacement.

New old stock, like you say very rare and obsolete. The only problem I see is there are fewer 92-94 LS400s around ( not sure if they fit the 90-92) and would an owner of one spend that amount of money on a 30+ year old car unless it was a “garage queen” and needed them for an MOT. My old 1994 still had the originals fitted when I sold it a few years ago, the only suspension parts required were 2 rear springs ( one broken) and a front UCA ( pothole damage) I was fortunate with the latter finding a new OEM one for £120.00 ( £521.00 from Lexus at the time). If you do find a nice bottle of good vintage Chateauneuf du pape in the garage I’m pretty sure Malc will be interested 😀

It looks reasonable to me, you can see it’s water and certainly not coolant.

Re AC sanitiser, if you do have a musty smell you can buy a DIY can which after starting the AC and opening all the vents you set off inside the car. I usually put mine on top of the rear transmission tunnel facing forward between the front seats. Assuming it has one also replace the AC pollen filter if not already done. Re the refrigerant they normally pump it all out then weigh it to establish how much was in. I never turn off the AC in my 2 LS models, the AC in my previous 94 model never failed or needed attention even after 30 years.

Oops, Must have looked up the wrong model on Toyodiy, sorry for the useless duff info.

Good point 😀