steve2006

Browsing again and came across this super modification for the LS430 “handbrake lever”. Should prove a challenge particularly with 7 already sold 😀

Hi Paul and welcome to the LOC. Take it out to get a better look at the jet, normally sliding a credit card or similar between the jet and bonnet from each side and pushing gently releases the nozzle assembly.

Coincidentally there was also a chip shortage around the same time, plenty of cod and haddock but due to a potato shortage no chips. I’ve been here so long I’ve seen it all before 😀

Hi Martin and welcome to the LOC. When you say “wobble” do you mean the complete pump is doing it or just the pulley?

For once I need to ask a question and not attempt to answer one 😀 I have a weird fault on the Celsior (LS430) in that non of the buttons light around the centre console (so AC controls etc) or the shifter when the lights are switched on at night. I did do some research and it is a known problem, possible causes being the light sensor on top of the dash or the dimmer control but nothing confirmed as sorting it. Looking at the diagram it appears to all be Canbus controlled, a computer to turn the lights on and off mmmmmm. Just wondering if anyone has a similar issue before the tools and DMM come out or whether this could be diagnosed via Techstream?

A bit more info 😀 45709 SLIDER SUB-ASSY, TILT STEERING 45709-30030 1 $260.47 45709A BUSH(FOR TILT STEERING SLIDER) 90389-08133 4 $2.89 45798 CLAMP, STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT, RH 45798-30010 1 $4.82 45810 GEAR ASSY, TILT STEERING, W/MOTOR 45810-30140 1 $893.69 45815 SHIM, TILT STEERING SUPPORT 45815-30020 厚さ＝０．７ 2 $1.58 45855 BOLT, TILT STEERING, NO.1 45855-30010 外径＝８

Many years ago Ford had Popular (base model), Popular Plus ( base model with a clock), L model, GL model, GLX model and the top of the range Ghia model. Just as confusing then as now 😀

Hi Ross and welcome to the LOC. For some reason I can’t see your video. The tilt slider assembly is shown below, I would recheck it is fully secured.

Unfortunately they often do allow you to order only to cancel in a week or so.

There are a couple being broken up on eBay.

Hi and welcome to the LOC 😀

How did you get 1000BHP from the standard 214BHP, no idea on turbocharging but always thought a 50% increase on stock was the norm? Very impressive BTW 😀

And of course replacing the 2 micro filters 😀

No problem glad to help, when I said the other side I meant both brake pads on the same side, if the calliper is seized one pad normally wears more than the other.

Hi Jaroslav and welcome to the LOC. On the IS I would start by rechecking the brakes as the callipers have tendency to “seize” up. The type of brake callipers used are the sliding type and the pins tend to seize up due to lack of suitable lubrication resulting in poor performance, uneven pad wear ( did you check both pads?) and unwanted noises. There are tutorials for DIY repairs. Another thing to check is the shield behind the disc, they can get bent and rub on the disc so need pushing clear.

It is in a rural area with Rufford Abbey, park and lake with Centre Parcs across the road so a tourist magnet. I used to live and work in this area and have driven through the ford many times in the late 1970s- early 1980s. Even then there were occasions where I have approached the ford and made the decision to turn around and take an alternative route via the A614 to Ollerton roundabout, into Ollerton then up the A616 towards Newark. There is a shorter route but this involves entering Ollerton village where traffic calming measures these days are a bit OTT. Even back then you still got people on the wooden foot bridges “car watching” and many got a good soaking if the river level was up a bit and my foot went down on the loud pedal in the works van. Of course there was little if any video recording then, perhaps there may be a few Kodak Instamatic snaps from observers as the sheet of water engulfed them, it is only the likes of YouTube which has now put it on the map which may explain why drivers risk writing their cars off for 15 seconds of fame.

I’m going for the VVTI system insufficient oil pressure to the actuators possibly as a result of clogged micro filters going by the noise and engine shake as the valve timing alters.

Water is just a product of fossil fuel combustion, if you look at your combi boiler flue on these cold days you see the same “smoke” As mentioned water vapour tends to condense in the rear exhaust sections then turns back to vapour when they warm up enough. Just take it out on a spirited drive run for 20 miles then recheck it.

Looking at the parts diagram they are located under the front cabin floor pan, easiest thing to do is take a look underneath the car and look at accessibility. Personally I don’t think any car is safe from these animals.

Or nearly half that from here if not urgent.

Amayama have them at a third of the UK dealer price plus shipping if you can wait a couple of weeks.

If they are the high voltage wires for the needles they could be arcing across hence why they light up for a second or 2 then go out. I would separate the wires and as suggested apply some additional insulation to each one, PTFE tape is a good choice or a few layers of insulation tape. I would also clean all those burn marks off the PCB as there could be arcing between the track and connector, a cotton bud and some isopropyl alcohol should do the job

Is that the one I did some work on for you, if it is it was a mint example.

Or you could go in the middle 😀

Although for the earlier model this tutorial may prove useful in converting from cold cathode tubes to LED backlighting, it will obviously require a bit of detective work locating the required power supply for the LED strips but given your present level of electronic engineering competency should be do able. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/clustercolor.html