steve2006

For Sale…..a nice property located in Somerset…..Lexus LS430 not included. 😀 Reporting radio frequency interference https://www.ofcom.org.uk/spectrum/interference-enforcement/interference-to-radiocommunications-apparatus

Apparently Wi-Fi can cause problems on the 2.4 GHz band

Here is something I’ve found which may be worth checking. Borrowed from CL, take a look at posts 32/33 and 58/59 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/755328-2004-ls430-keyless-entry-and-smart-key-suddenly-stopped-working-2.html Could you be more specific regarding the location of the noise from the rear of the car, just wondering if you have the common issue with one of the rear door lock motors, which fail to complete the full lock/unlock sequence resulting in a confused ECU not knowing if a door is locked or unlocked.

The system uses a “rolling code” method so basically each time you press a button on the fob the security code is changed and synchronised to the car. If for some reason the fob and car codes no longer match you then get the problem you had, basically the fob talks in one language and the car another so they cannot understand each other, the car becomes annoyed and sets the alarm off in protest. Leaving the fob in the ignition switch turned to ignition for 7-10 minutes allows the 2 to reestablish communications which appears to be the case with yours.

Just another thought, was the green Smart indicator flashing prior to this issue?

I thought it may have been but didn’t want to confuse locations between LHD and RHD 😀

I think the alarm horn is located under the battery tray, just pull off one connection to shut it up. BTW I noticed your picture shows a LHD model?

The first, easiest and cheapest option is to remove the battery negative lead, leave it 15 minutes then reconnect and try the car again. There have been reports of corroded terminals in the boot causing sudden failure of the Smart and security systems but try the above first.

IIRC they are bulbs, just out of curiosity do all the button illuminations work at night when the external lights are switched on ( the ones for the AC and other functions for example) ? Another thing to check are the sensors on top of the dash are clear from obstructions.

That’s all good to hear James and thanks for coming back with an update 😀 The most obvious dull illumination cause would be if the knob on the lower right of the dash panel next to the security/Smart key LEDs had been turned down.

Hi James and welcome to the LOC. Failing lock motors are a common issue, the carbon brushes wear out and the motor only moves slightly. The lock release is cable driven so a decent auto locksmith should know where to go in down the outside window seal, hook onto the end of the cable and pull. As previously advised once open take off the door trim until fixed, new actuators are around £100.00 from Lexus, I wouldn’t go the secondhand route.

Are the previous owner’s details on the V5c or at least the number of previous owners? Does the service history match the actual mileage of 75K? Personally it would be going straight back to CarZoo via Trading Standards, can anyone remember a post when a 4 year old Lexus required a speedometer change?

To be fair prices over the last through years have gone through the roof, a fresh Jap import will now cost around £25-30K including shipping and taxes so £4K for a project including most of the spares needed on reflection is not too bad ( still haggle though). It doesn’t seem that long ago a mate offered me his roadworthy V8 Soarer for £1500!

Just looked at “Cars from Japan” website and what were £4K cars just a few years ago are now £25K now. Problem is there are fewer good ones about so premium prices, the bubble will burst eventually. https://carfromjapan.com/cheap-used-toyota-soarer-1994-for-sale-6301b73ced90ed5551ef6d86

Hi Alex and welcome to the LOC. Have you checked the MOT history for this car? https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=J67avo It has been stood for a least 2 years, done 195K miles and has a comprehensive list of advisories including a lot of “corrosion” issues. It looks like a major project with worn door hinges ( a common fault due to the weight of the doors), suspension issues, fuel lIne issues and then the paint will need some serious work after being stood never mind the interior. For a non running MOT fail candidate that is a lot of money and I’m sure there are better examples out there for less money. My personal advice......walk away from this potential money pit.

It looks like coolant clag, there is a gasket between that housing (Front water bridge) and block which is probably the cause ( 2 gaskets, one each side) 4 bolts, remove the thermostat housing and you should be there. Nothing’s changed re coolant Toyota red pre diluted or concentrate mixed with distilled water. LDP did have it on offer some time back. Are you also aware of the need to replace the radiator to avoid the coolant and transmission fluid mixing?

Is it UV exposure that also tends to turn the tyre sidewalls brown? I’ve noticed that a few times with the other Lexus I had even though I used Autoglym tyre treatment regularly. They did eventually turn back to black.

There is a blue SC on the bay presently being sold as a MOT fail, initially I thought about it until I looked up the MOT history. https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=Mv03kfy From this it would seem a waste of time asking about the service history, when there are fails on tyres and wiper blades it does make me wonder when the oil was last replaced. £670.00 for the exhaust centre section if you still fancy a project 😀

Before clicking on the link I would suggest at least sunglasses or better still a welding mask. All that work and money but no replacement SGS bonnet struts 😀 https://tinyurl.com/rkrf28wu

Replacement LED bulbs “blew up” my combination relay (ECU) many years ago in my 1994 LS400 giving rise to similar problems. After finding a good replacement fixed the issue an internal examination of the failed unit revealed a fuse resistor had failed, 10 ohm 1 watt IIRC. I put it down to cheap and nasty LED bulbs and also refitted the originals without further problems.

Hello Jack and welcome to the LOC. Just be careful with USA parts to make sure you order the correct side, Lexus normally quote RH and LH viewed from the drivers seat looking forward so LH being near side and RH being offside. OEM are NLA at Amayama so Rockauto is probably your best option unless you fancy eBay nasties.

Maciej thanks for the updates and good to read the car is now going fine. If I get any ECU problems it may be worth a trip with Ryanair to Vilnius and do some sightseeing at the same time as getting things fixed 😀

Hopefully no disruptions in the Suez Canal this time 😀

Not brilliantly apparent but looks like clips holding it in place, time for an uncomfortable position in the footwell with a head torch.

I get the impression that a lot of car dealers take out “ 6 month Trade Warranties” to cover themselves from potential claims. This is probably included in the price of the car of course and won’t be immediately obvious. It’s when they coerce you into taking out an “extended warranty” you then pay for it yourself 😀