steve2006

Hi Shaun and welcome to the LOC. I do hope that the correct oil was put into the system! https://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-hybrid-air-conditioning-special-service-requirements-prius-rx400h-camry-hybrid-etc/ Poor air flow over the evaporator coils ( when did you last replace the pollen filter?) can cause it as can a faulty condenser fan ( is it kicking in and out?). Either way given the additional complexities of hybrid AC ( electric compressor, special PAG oil) I would suggest finding a specialist in that field and if you suspect the wrong oil is now in there move quickly. Just out of curiosity what symptoms led you to the problem?

From what I understand cars built before 2001 meet only Euro 2 standard while ULEZ requires a minimum of Euro 4 (post 2006 models) although some models may have met this standard earlier like your traders’ 54-55 plates and this is stated on the V5c. You can obtain a CoF from the vehicle manufacturer at a cost of £75.00 but this would still not be acceptable for ULEZ given the above.

I guess you have now managed it but the base is normally yank up to release the clips then pull forward and remove, the rear section is usually 4 bolts at the bottom visible once the base is removed.

Find a breaker on eBay, TBH I’ve never heard of this problem before on an IS250 so the chances are you will be able to find one in good working condition at a fraction of dealer prices. The other thing is it rarely gets used in general but is an MOT requirement. Link below https://tinyurl.com/ypky2695 https://tinyurl.com/4pdj4anz

When I sold my old 1994 Celsior I had a call a few hours later telling me it had broken down with a failed serpentine idler pulley and shredded belt. Initially I was going to drive down there over 150 miles as I had spare pulley bearings and belts in the shed but given the time I refunded the guy £200.00 to cover his costs and inconvenience. It was a private sale so so liability but to be fair I did it.

Found this the other day. https://youtu.be/DxVdwwPp8kI

Just another thought. Once the seat base is removed remove the lower seat belt mounting bolt ( circled in blue) giving you some slack in the belt. Allow it to retract slightly then see if it has freed off by pulling it out again.

From the diagram it appears the centre belt is held by a single bolt (circled). To access the mechanism the usual route is remove seat base and upright then you should be able to lift up the rear shelf enough and get to the bolt. Being inertia belts tipping the reel backwards and forwards once removed may disengage the locking pawl. If not a used one from a breaker.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. I assume you are planning a journey along the Autobahn? Try this link http://www.tomsracing.co.jp/e/web_sale/index.html

Beat me to it Andrew 😀

Maybe condensate from the AC?

“Your call is not important to us and won’t be answered shortly” ”We are experiencing a high volume of calls at the moment and don’t have enough staff to answer them in a reasonable time” ”Your call will be answered shortly…you are number 172 in the queue” 😀

According to the database the sensor is the same for the IS200 engine (1GFE) and the IS300 engine (2JZGE). Lexus/Toyota part number is 89615-22050

The same pump supplies both the front and rear wash so if the latter is still working so is the pump. There is only a NR valve in the rear washers. I have attached the diagram to assist you in locating the blockage, I would begin by removing the washer jet nozzles from the bonnet then remove the pipe from these and see if water then flows when you activate the washers. To release the washer jets insert old credit cards one either side of the nozzle and push together.

Did the car actually move from where you left it initially? As the TV ads used to say... ”You can’t get better than a Kwik S**t fitter, they’re the guys not to trust” I am now eagerly awaiting further updates Linas 😀

Personally I would avoid the 1st and 2nd generation models and be looking at the 3rd gen 2005-on. This link may help https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_GS Good luck with your search, feel free to post up any you fancy for further members’ advice and finally welcome to the LOC 😀

Check out the MOT history (presently expired BTW). It appears to be been run on a budget since new so 4 not so caring owners running tyres and brakes to their legal limits before having to replace them....too many unnecessary advisories. Looking at the interior it may have never seen the likes of a vacuum cleaner and how does a driver’s seat get into that state! Looks like WBAC straight to BCA and now dealer route to me and given that the front mats were sitting in the boot still dirty would be another indication of lack of care. Keep looking but close your eyes to this example.

It is because they are apparently cutting back on quality control so things like panel gaps, paint finish and which way the directional tyres are fitted on the rims saving time hence faster delivery. Only joking David and welcome to the LOC 😀

Hi Trevor and welcome to the LOC. Just checked for you and part numbers for both LHD and RHD models are exactly the same. I’m guessing you are looking at Rockauto for the parts? Just bear in mind the shipping cost and 20% VAT applicable ( pay the VAT upfront it saves delays and “admin” charges. With the Lexus prices in excess of £2000.00 it is still a significant saving especially with the Denso compressor being OEM anyway.

I was fortunate with mine already having had the factory stainless steel option fitted on purchase

It must have been around 2006-2009s when you could buy a MINES ECU for less than £100.00 for the early Celsiors but now like Rocking Horse S***. These basically offered the same power upgrades and increased red line to 7000 RPM which the early thick rod engines could manage with ease. Nothing cheap nowadays....I saw a LS430 passenger footwell litter bin on fleabay recently going for £170.00 plus delivery from Japan.

I thought the SC and LS used the same 4 pot Sumitomi callipers so the wheels will fit without spacers?

Lots of causes, fuel, ignition related with no fault codes? With your limited description I would be looking for a vacuum leak on the intake side so check all pipes and hoses in that area particularly the brake servo ones and the non return valve.

Why is it that manufacturers build a car with an inherent defect and then do little to rectify the issue leaving owners to pay for additional security measures to protect the vehicle from theft and face increased insurance premiums through no fault of their own. Sure it is good to hear that the brand insurance is offering free immobilisers, although apparently not widely advertised, but this still leaves owners covered by 3rd party insurers venerable to theft of their vehicle unless they pay out of their own pockets for additional security.