steve2006
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Everything posted by steve2006
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I've heard talcum powder works but I think you can buy belt dressing stuff,again maybe cheaper to replace the belt if it's due anyway. Just make sure it's not another component causing the noise.
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Re the pulley issue, again I may be completely wrong (like the engine sorry) but the LS400 has 2 pullies on the tensioner and idler and you can actually just replace the bearings if they are noisy rather than splash out 10x as much for the whole assembly.
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Part number is 84450-16080 and it is the same as a Toyota Starlet 96-99 models which will probably be cheaper than the Lexus price around £85.00! -
Hello and welcome to the LOC. TBH if your mechanic damaged your oil level sensor I would be asking him to replace it at his cost. Parts look the same on the exploded diagram but part numbers are different 89491-53010 for the Is200/300 2005 89493-60010 for the 2007 IS220d Also remember you will need a new O ring seal.
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Hello and welcome to the LOC. We always get members asking about decent independants so looks good with trained Toyota guys running the show plus the rates are generally lower :)
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Hello and welcome to the LOC. Lots of good people and loads of information avaiable on here :) Feel free to post up pictures.
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I've only heard of a few problems with the transfer box so check carefully.
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Same here Mr Sheen,2 cloths one to rub it around one to buff it up. Just make sure you put the tin back before the other half finds out :)
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The engine ECU is located on the other side of the panel directly below the glovebox. The 1st step as always when working on the car is to remove the negative battery terminal to remove the risk of anything being shorted out during the process. Step 1. Open the glove box lid and prise out the 2 plastic covers over the support arms by pushing in an outward direction. Once these are removed the support arms simply pull off the bracket on the glove box. The glove box compartment is hld in position by 5 plastic stud fixings, 3 along the bottom and 2 along the top. Using a suitable tool prise these out and then using a plastic blade depress the top edge of the compartment then pull it forward slightly. Remove the glove box light wiring by pushing the lug on the connector and then carefully pull out the right side of the glove box further and ensure the stay arms are pushed back through the slots. The right side stay arm is attached to the glovebox with a nylon connecting cord and damper mechanism so take care not to break this on removal. Once the inner compartment is removed you can now access and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the panel at the top either side of the glove box door. From here remove the lower passenger side kick panel containing the foot well light, to remove the light socket twist the bulb holder. This will then allow access and removal to a further 3 10mm bolts at the bottom of the panel, one at each end and one in the middle. Carefully lower the panel down to the floor of the car to reveal the ECU as shown in the picture below, the loom will allow this without straining. Reverse the above proceedure to refit everything.
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My sepentine belt idler pulley has had an intermittent squeak for some time especially more so in colder weather but it has now got to the point where the noise is there more than not so action needs to be taken,people are turning round and looking at the car for the wrong reasons! The complete pulley assembly is available from Lexus of course for around £80.00 but the bearing is actually removeable so I have gone down this route. After a bit of research I found the correct replacement bearing from a UK supplier based in Birmingham. The cost was a meagre £1.35 with 60p P+P, incase of any problems I ordered 2 ( if not I have a spare ready in another 19 years!) I will get my local garage to replace the bearing for a couple of beer tokens. So if everything goes to plan the job should be done for under a tenner. I will post up some pictures/tutorial when the job is complete. Another gadget I bought recently was an engineering stethoscope for £4.00 to diagnose the noisy bearing when it wasn't sqeaking, it worked brilliantly you could actually hear the roughness of the bearing when you stuck it on the casting behind it.
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1) Open the boot lid. 2) Remove the sound proofing from the inside of the boot lid by gently pulling around the edges to release the hidden plastic fixings, these are fairly tough and not easily broken so don't worry. 3)Once the sound proofing is removed you will be able to see the wiring to the bulb holders, put you fingers inside the boot cavity and you will be able to feel the holders,twist the base of the holders anticlockwise and then pull them out. 4) Either replace the blown bulb(s) with convenventional types or upgrade to LED types. Remember LEDS will only work one way around so after fitting leave the holders out and turn on the side lights, if one or more of the LEDs fails to illuminate remove it and turn it 180 degrees and refit. 5) Refit the bulb holders by inserting and then twisting clockwise to lock. 6)Refit the sound proofing by lining it up and using your fist to push back the fixings, looking along the edge of the soundproofing will allow you to see the correct alignment of the clips and holes. 7) Standback and admire your work!
