steve2006

Welcome to the LOC. This should be a great help to other members with missing master keys (a regular question on the forums) Any more information on the device like a link maybe :)

OEM shims are stainless steel so should last the lifetime of the car. Brake judder can be due to brakes but also worn suspension joints can cause the same effect.

From the list of parts it would appear the repair was to the EGR system and not the HG issue as this normally involves a short engine replacement.

It is generally recommended to have the brake fluid replaced every 2-3 years, the stuff absorbs water over time which leads to a lower boiling point which in turn could lead to a reduction in braking effect during periods of sustained heavy braking. Most garages have a special brake fluid checker which can check the water content of the fluid so providing a guide as to whether it needs replacing.

To be sure you would need to have the diagnostic fault codes read,there have been problems with the invertor units and the cooling system associated with it (apparently the pump fails and the unit then overheats).

If the motor is the same as the LS430 there is a known problem with the ferrite magnetic core breaking up and jamming the motor, the noise may be the 1st sign of impending doom (sorry). Some members have stripped down the steering column and turned the drive gear manually to set the wheel in the correct position then disconnected the motor, obviously this removes the feature but at around £200.00 plus fitting the motor isn't cheap.

From what I can see it is sat midway between the pedals and the centre of the dash clocks.

I assume the battery is a known good one and fully charged? If so the indicators normally flash when the alarm system is set/unset so could be associated with this, if there is no power to any other parts of the car I would start by taking a look at the fusebox in the engine compartment where all the high current fuses are located and check these, the alternator fuse is one that can fail when a battery is reconnected.

Probably because it uses a timing chain on this engine not a belt :) So apart from making sure the engine oil is replaced at the specified times with the correct type and grade no other maintainance is generally required on chain driven engines. Cam chains have been much improved over the years virtually eliminating stretching so are making a comeback combined with improved tensioners but as above oil lubrication plays an important part in their lifespan.

A top half car cover maybe?

The parts are around £200.00 each from Lexus UK but a mere $116.00 US$ from Amayama so let's say with shipping and import charges $300.00 for the pair, add 2 hours labour with an indi and you'll still be under the Lexus quote by a few hundred. http://www.amayama.com/search?q=48790-59025

Good upgrade, had the original torn around the edges?

It's chain driven.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. I know the bottom ball joints are different but these can be fitted to the 1990-1994 hub to accomodate the 4 pot caliper conversions but unsure if the rest is. Why are you replacing the whole hub assembly BTW?

Were all LS430s on air suspension?

Coil packs are a common fail on the IS200 and some people would recommend replacing all 6 with OEM units, the glowing cat would confirm a misfire problem so unburnt fuel is entering the cat,left too long it will cause damage to it.

It seems that many LS400s have been sucessfully converted,I have one on springs and another on air so can't see why the 430 should not be the same. There is a website www.lextreme.com which details the proceedure on the 400. Regarding UK suppliers there must be some who could supply decent aftermarket struts,perhaps adjustable coilovers would be the way to go.

If you have the same problem on both fuels it has to be something common to both and the ignition side is the obvious way to go.Coil packs normally flag up an OBDII code so I would go for the plugs 1st, not sure if the plugs are suitable for dual fuel but iridiums are the nomal way to go,not cheap but last almost forever. Another place to check and clean if needed is the throttle body which can cause poor idling/stalling issues. I owned a 1999 GS300 for s short while and loved it but not as much as my LS400 so it had to go,still owned by a local guy who repaired my accident damaged LS. Talking local I see you are in Derbyshire,anywhere near Alfreton?

Repairing a Lexus makes a change from just washing and polishing it :) If you want any help diagnosing feel free to post up the issues.

Hello and welcome to the LOC :)

Chances are with the cold weather we are at presently experiencing is the engine will not get to the point where the cooling fans need to kick in. Providing the temperature gauge doesn't go much above it's normal mid range position I wouldn't worry but obviously keep an eye on it if sat in traffic for a period of time. Also if you were running it with the cap off the fans probably wouldn't cut in as the coolant only reaches a higher temperature when the system is pressurised I notice on mine that the temperature gauge seems to read slightly lower when fresh coolant is installed but then creeps back up to it's original position after a month or so, may be something to do with better heat conduction with fresh coolant. As for the AC problem there is a chance that you have either disconnected or broken on of the control flaps or their operating mechanism.There are a lot of flaps,levers and servo motors under the dash controlling both air flow direction and temperature so it may be worth re-checking the area where you were working. I know on some Lexus models the flap mechanisms can be damaged by replacing the pollen filter with these set in the wrong position.

THat sounds like a problem with the VVTI system which alters the camshaft timing, 1st thing to check is the engine oil condition and level along with the separate VVTI oil filter which does clog and cause oil starvation/low oil pressure to the actuators.

Ar sorry for the duff info, it may be worth finding a good local locksmith and seeing if they can do it. I did find this info on CL which may help. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-third-generation/613742-programming-used-smart-key-fob.html

I opened one of mine using a basic hairdryer and moving it around until the sealer was soft enough to gently prise off the lense, then warm it all up again to push back together.

Power steering fluid as far as I know isn't replaced as part of servicing, if it is low level then it gets topped up but there is no easy way to drain and refill the system, you could try trmoving as much fluid as possible from the reservoir ( turkey baster from wilcos) and then refilling with fresh fluid to see if that improves things although it could be sticky seals in either the pump or rack which free off when everything warms up.