steve2006

https://tinyurl.com/36mnwxun

Check the alternator fuse first, engine bay fuse box, not the normal plug in type but bigger with a clear plastic cover and bolt in. Seem to remember it’s 120A. They have been known to blow when the battery is reconnected.

Wait until we check that website “How many left” and find just 2 LS400s, one still on the road and the other Sorned. 😀

Finding a decent LS400 these days is getting harder but if you have the time to wait not impossible however there is still a problem. Yes the spare parts situation……it was maybe 10 years ago when aftermarket parts like smoked indicators were widely available for around $30.00 but now even the basics like coil springs are obsolete with none left on the stock shelves. OK you can get certain pattern parts like UCAs and LBJs but they generally aren’t made to the same quality as OEM or have the same life span, personally I wouldn’t trust any aftermarket critical suspension parts. As time marches on this spares situation will continue to spread up the line with LS430/460 parts becoming NLA, we know the engines with regular servicing are good for hundreds of thousands of miles but a broken spring will not only leave you stranded but may be the end of the car.

Hi Steve and welcome to the LOC. Obviously I’m not sure on the legalities involved in Australia regarding vehicle lighting so I would check before replacing the bulbs. It may be easier and cheaper just to upgrade the existing bulbs with the “super bright” options offered by many manufacturers. Fortunately we tend not to have Kangaroo problems here in the UK. Feel free to post up a few pictures of your new Lexus, a kangaroo in the background would be a bonus 😀 Pretty sure some IS250 owners will also chip in with further advice and suggestions for your lighting.

Obviously your preferences regarding colour and specifications are unknown but here’s an example. Several worn tyre advisories over the years and suspension dust boots but nothing much more. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202307270135127?sort=relevance&advertising-location=at_cars&include-delivery-option=on&make=Lexus&model=IS 250&page=3&postcode=De55 1bg&fromsra

Sorry I missed this one yesterday, working all day on my motorcycle. Sod’s Law but I scrapped a series IV a few years ago and let it go with 2 brand new KYB front springs fitted! KYB still list the springs for the LS400 which I understand are OEM fitment so it may be worth contacting them who will advise on the correct part number and a UK stockist. The parts list shows 3 part numbers for the UCF 20 so would assume up to 97, 97-on standard and 97-on DHP. https://kyb-europe.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/KYB-Coil-Spring-Catalogue-2022-Version-A-ENG.pdf

Hi Gokan and welcome to the LOC. There is a very good chance it could still be due to your 12 volt aux battery, how old is it? You may have a good terminal voltage present but without sufficient current (amps) being provided it won’t be able to supply enough power for the systems. Have it checked professionally, most places do a free test. BTW have you checked the battery terminals are tight?

OK I’ll ask….why are you replacing the front wheel bearing again when you had the complete hubs replaced 2 years ago?

Allopurinol tablet anyone?

It depends on “how low” you’re planning on going as generally the tyres will hit the wheel arch liners first. I would think the guy is referring to “bump stops” to limit the upward travel of the upper control arms but these will cause the suspension to bottom out. The ultimate mod must be as shown below with the lowered LS400s across the pond, but I wouldn’t go this far.

It was a long time ago but I vaguely remember another member coming up with a solution for the boot corner water collection problem. I cannot find the post but pretty sure it involved carefully drilling a hole in each side of the plastic channel and metal ( remove the trim, clean up the metal and apply rust prevention)then getting a couple of the kids’ plastic pea shooters, cutting them down and siliconing them flush with the drain channel. From there a piece of clear plastic pipe was attached to the cut down end and these were routed behind the carpet eventually emerging out under the car with the sunroof drain pipes. Similar solution mention below

Many years ago not long after I purchased my 94 Celsior I decided, like many, to replace all the interior lights with LED “bulbs”. 2 weeks later and I had no interior lights due to the nice Far Eastern quality LEDs having gone short circuit. Being Toyota this was not just a case of a blown fuse but failure of the “Integration Relay” ( basically an ECU for internal lighting control). Located behind the fuse box once removed it didn’t take me long to find a 10 Ohm fusible resistor open circuit, still a fuse but in the unit. Replaced the part, ripped out the LEDs to refit the original bulbs and normal service resumed. Cost to repair…..pennies, cost of replacement unit from Toyota hundreds!

Yes you did post this question before which I answered and offered advice with no further response from yourself?

Rayaan I know it’s been a while now since you replaced yours but if you still have the old faulty unit I would be happy to take a look at it which may result in a repair or at least help other members in the same position. It would make a change from LS400 ECUs, Climate Control LCDs, Radio backlight issues and the interior lights controllers I used to repair.

The forecourt price is calculated by subtracting the wholesale price from it then adding in the average temperature at the pumps then multiplying by the wind direction upon delivery. 😀

Made me smile when the seller drove it 1200 miles from Sweden “ non stop” and then the car cannot be (legally) driven in the UK but got to the seller’s address. The car is then subject to VAT, what was that ABBA song......oh yes “Money, Money, Money” 😀

I just wish the optical pricing would disappear “149.9” just make it £1.50 please, it just insults my intelligence!

Hi Ron and welcome to the LOC. I assume that the replacement switch was brand new OEM? If so unusual but possible it has also failed but still guaranteed I guess. Could also be another cause like the wiring, maybe a poor connection which got disturbed when the switch was replaced which then began working again until now. Was the old switch checked with a meter to confirm it was faulty?

Another factor to also consider is the use of “lead free solder” the stuff simply doesn’t provide the same level of adhesion and suffers more from dry joints. Constant heating and cooling leads to failure of the joints.

Hi Caroline and welcome to the LOC. Chances are your heater resistor pack has failed, which normally results in only one fan speed. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304950087824?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338343596&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A304950087824%3BEAIaIQobChMItJqFjPbBgAMVlsvtCh1Bvgx7EAQYBSABEgK65_D_BwE&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1pZDQtJRRQku7mO8YLWi1Pw75&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItJqFjPbBgAMVlsvtCh1Bvgx7EAQYBSABEgK65_D_BwE

I only got a packet of biscuits with mine, they are however the “improved” I.e. facelift version.

For OEM Amayama are the cheapest ( well OK there’s nothing cheap for a Lexus!) but you still save around 40% on UK prices even adding the VAT into the equation. You would be looking around a grand for all 4 UCAs but they would be genuine parts. To give you some idea 😀

That’s the same company I used when I did the 1994 Celsior seats and I had the exact same issues with the supplied airbrush. It was fine for very small areas but took forever with a complete seat plus “canned” air ain’t cheap. Fortunately I have a compressor so purchased a gravity feed mini air gun sprayer. It did take a few attempts with the colour matching, the small sample was no good and mismatched so I ended up sending the complete headrest to them to get the match correct and to be fair they didn’t charge me again. Must admit mine was the average amateur result where as yours looks top notch 😀

It just gets worse! Rusty callipers could therefore be viewed as a failure to ensure your car is properly maintained invalidating your insurance next then?