steve2006

Did you replace the VVTI oil filters as suggested by Britprius?

You're welcome, Regarding the seat bolster wear I have used the company on the link before both for my car and leather sofa. They do list a black dye specifically for Lexus but will colour match from a sample also if you can obtain one from perhaps spare material under the seat. It does work and lasts years once done. http://www.dynamixdyes.com/lexus-car-leather-dye-mini-30ml-1670-p.asp

I can't add much to the above replies except to welcome you to the LOC and Lexus ownership

Perhaps try gently tapping the top of the valve cap to shock the threads loose or heat up use cap with a lighter. Problem is if it is a rubber valve it will probably rip before the cap lets go.

Hello Stuart and welcome to the LOC. I don't own an RX400h so cannot comment specifically but bear in mind you have very little comeback if you buy privately as opposed to a dealer. Look for a full (preferably Lexus) service history, I think Lexus also offer a condition report service which may be a good idea pre purchase if buying privately or have an independent inspection carried out by the RAC/AA. You can also check the MOT history online which is useful is seeing any past failures or advisories or mileage discrepancies with just the make and registration number. Be aware of any for sale that have lived at or near the coast, we presently have one member with a rotted out rear subframe due to this reason. Good luck in your search.

Should be stored code(s) so if you have a code reader worth hooking it up perhaps. How old is the battery?

Paint job as well maybe

No I've not lost the plot and posted in the wrong forum but never realised this existed until reading a book where this car is mentioned. http://www.supercars.net/blog/2003-lexus-430-concept/

Hello and welcome to the LOC. Assuming you have already removed the centre bolt have you tried a puller on it?

I would suggest a minimum 25mm CSA copper cable.

Sounds like a god plan, I think there is also a sensor fitted to the 12 Volt battery on the hybrid models so make sure this is correctly attached if you do have the battery replaced.

In that case I would check the coolant pressure cap and replace for the small cost involved.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. I think the pipe you are referring to is the one on the expansion tank to the left of the filler cap, the pipe is an overflow. Possible causes of coolant loss from the pipe are a faulty filler cap or more seriously over pressurisation of the cooling system as a result of cylinder head gasket failure or water pump failure. Most MOT garages should be able to check for exhaust gases in the coolant reservoir or do a cylinder compression check. How much coolant are you loosing and what is your temperature gauge saying during normal driving conditions I.e. is the engine overheating on the gauge or the heater only blowing cold air? Plus are there any other issues like rough running, misfiring or steam from the exhaust when the engine is warmed up fully?

Hairdryer, warm it up and soften it first.

Check the CPS and wiring to it, with no crank signal there will be no injector operation.

Not so sure on petrol cars but symptoms on diesels with blocked/jammed EGR valves are loss of power and lots of exhaust smoke. For the cost of DIY labour (zero) and a can of carb cleaner I would do the same as you. Mine will never fail........it doesn't have EGR.

Hi and welcome to the LOC Rikky. I would start by checking for a 12 Volt supply at the ballast unit then try swapping over the bulbs from one headlight to the other to eliminate a faulty bulb and if both are OK swop over the ballast units.

If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance of them as it is basically a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet, if you get no reading it is open circuit and therefore duff. Other problems with the sensors are caused by the pickup collecting (being magnetic) iron particles from road debris on them thus upsetting the signal output to a point that they fail to work and the toothed ring mounted on the hub cracking which the sensor uses to detect wheel rotation. Hopefully a simple gasket on the fuel cap will sort out the problem for you.

I didn't know that we could buy products on eBay from Japan directly, last time I looked you had to have an agent who bought the part for you and then shipped it over from them so incurring 2 lots of shipping. Just be aware that you may be subject to VAT and other handling charges once it arrives in the U.K. but I do like the "free" shipping.

Speaking of advances in design and technology the picture below is part of one in Practical Classics magazine showing the interior of a 1967 Rover P5B. With the surf board type accelerator pedal and the footrest it looks very much like the LS400 pedal design from over 20 years later.

The part number should be on the post, if not let me know and I'll post it up.

How old is your battery as this can cause spurious errors as ECUs are voltage sensitive.

Hello Shane and welcome to the LOC.

Once the old trim is removed clean the area where it fits thoroughly with ISO-propyl alcohol or similar, warming up the bumper with a hair dryer helps adhesion of the new trim. The original trim has black plastic end caps but just neatly cut the ends on the replacement stuff.

Mine is the same, 5 litres and a bit including filter.