steve2006

You appear to have replaced all ignition related components and given the fact that the problem only seems to occur when the fuel tank level is low would suggest the misfire is fuel and not ignition related. The whooshing noise heard when the fuel cap is released is actually air being let into the tank not out due to the suction of the fuel pump. The problem could be due to a faulty fuel pump producing insufficient rail pressure as the level in the tank drops and the vacuum increases however actually measuring the pump pressure is not easy given the metal pipe work and lack of a suitable test connection point. A quick check for adequate fuel pressure can be done by connecting a shorting link between the +B and FP connections at the engine bay diagnostic socket and the engine not running, if you look at the passenger side fuel rail you will see a device which looks like a "top hat" where the fuel pipe banjo joint connects. On top of this is a little pop up pin which should fully extend when the link is fitted indicating full fuel rail pressure is present. When the misfire happens have you released the fuel cap then retightened it and then checked if the misfire has gone? Have you also determined which cylinders are suspected of misfiring, are they all on the same bank or 2 on each bank?

A Lexus tool kit is not just for Christmas

Must just be me with strange imports, I used to have a german version of the Vauxhall Carlton badged as an Opel Rekord, 2.0L S but was RHD.

I came across this app a few minutes ago, available on the Apple store but unsure if other systems also have it. Quite good as you can move the ipad and look around.

Mine is hydraulic drive with its own fluid reservoir, not sure how it works as there are also rubber pipes to the engine too.

I did mine a few years ago and I think preparation is the key. The plugs obviously rust and this makes it difficult to ensure the hex key has been pushed fully in, if it is not fully inserted that is when the rounding off can happen. Regarding buying a piece of hex bar and welding it to the plug please ensure it is of high quality otherwise you may shear it off or twist it during the attempted removal leaving you in a far worse situation.

Paul my computer skills have never gone forward since the mid 70s when it was ticker tape with holes in it and Basic programming so when the mod screen asks for the URL to merge I struggle but assumed that was the www. bit which I managed to copy and wallpaper paste.

I think I have successfully merged the 2 posts due to a glitch come user error

I think it was called a "Crook Lock" and fitted under the brake pedal and over the bottom of the steering wheel, I hope they have improved the quality as the originals could be removed in seconds if you knew how to. There was another one which was dish shaped and clamped over the steering wheel with a long arm coming off it which prevented the wheel being turned very far. Finally the one which fitted over the handbrake lever and the over the gear lever.

Are you talking engine or transmission oil here Michael, engine oil as you say is cheap but Toyota transmission fluid is very expensive at around €50.00 for 5 litres here in the U.K. Coming over to Protaras in a few weeks, can I borrow your RX please ?

Reminds me of when a neighbours 3.0 litre automatic Ford Capri was driven through our fence into our garden, the owner's wife had tried to move it and wasn't sure which pedal to press.... wrong choice unfortunately!

Hello Eric, welcome to the LOC and thank you for your detailed first post.

Just make sure you remove the refill plug first as the last thing you want is to remove the drain plug successfully, drain all the old oil and then find the refill plug is completely stuck despite all the efforts to remove it leaving you with a drained differential and no means of refilling it. In other words make sure you can refill before draining! As Phil mentions WD40 is also a good move as is getting the casing warm with a good drive before re-attempting the plug removals. Part numbers are Drain plug 90341-18035 Filler Plug 90341-18032 Gaskets for both plugs 12157-10010. Expect to pay around £12.00 for the lot.

We have luxury speed bumps around here, they come complete with integrated pot holes!!!!!! The complete lack of road maintainance nationwide is disgraceful, bad enough that we all pay for this non existent service and never receive it but then added insult with damage to vehicle suspension which again becomes the driver's responsibility!

Do you still have the original indicator units to refit until you can source clear replacements at least then you can continue to use the car.

Look for the EFI fuse this resets the ECU but why do you feel the need to reset it?

I watched Speed 2 Cruise Control on TV the other day, that ship didn't slow down very much either, it hit an oil tanker before crashing into the pier in St Martin. Brake lights didn't come on either!

Hi Elvin and welcome to the LOC. Plenty of friendly members and loads of information on here. I was in Singapore a few weeks ago, stayed at the Copthorne Waterfront for 3 nights before cruising, not the cheapest place in the world with a large beer costing $18.00 SD (£10.00) along the waterfront bars!

Have you checked the battery voltage when the engine is running? The reason I mention this is because the alternator output is internally regulated and if this has developed a fault it may be supplying a higher than normal voltage which would reduce the lifespan of the bulbs, easy enough to check with a multimeter just to eliminate it as a cause. Also with tail/stop lights I have noticed with some brands the solder terminals on the base which contact the bulb holder flatten out resulting in a poor intermittent connections, arcing, overheating then complete failure. Finally check all the main earth points for good electrical contact and tightness as these can cause voltage spikes if loose.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. With the mileage I would assume that your Lexus is still under warranty but once you have the car back from the dealer could you post up what was found please?

Mine is the opposite way around as the front suspension only squeaks going over road humps when the temperature is low and the car cold, been like it since I got it 11 years ago and since then new LBJs and UCAs have been fitted so not those as the cause.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. Do you have any fault codes from either or both places where you have already taken the car as these will save you both time and money when it comes to making the correct diagnosis, admittedly Lexus vehicles can be a little fussy with OBD readers and other members can generally recommend one that does the job. The knock sensors are mounted under the intake manifold so are not easy to access but rarely fail. With the car being sat so long unused the remaining fuel in the tank will by now be completely useless, how much fresh fuel have you added since? It may be worth draining the tank completely,replacing the fuel filter then refill with fresh fuel but the fault codes are definitely needed first.

Do you have the ebay link Phil? I always thought that these were AC synchronous motors similar to the ones used in domestic microwave ovens for the turntable which consist of a cylindrical ferrite magnetic core, a coil winding, various reduction gears and an output shaft gear. The ECU has a warning sticker attached warning of high internal voltages which would suggest the voltage is higher than the normal 12VDC system so may contain an Inverter. The core apparently breaks up resulting in a mechanically seized motor but I would be happy to investigate this further should someone wish to donate a defective unit I can reverse engineer.

I will make some enquiries and find out the reasons why the dealer is not accepting the gold membership. Could you confirm which dealership you are using please?

Unfortunately there is no best deal option on the OEM Toyota type IV transmission fluid, the U.K. dealer price was around £60.00 for 5 litres when I last purchased some. If you have an upcoming trip to the USA and a generous luggage allowance the same stuff there costs around 25% of the UK price! The fluid is not made by Toyota and comes under several other branded names including Mobil, the same fluid is used in certain Volvo models using the Aisin transmission units. Regarding the headlight beam adjustment, sorry no idea on that one perhaps a call to your local dealer or there may be a reference in the owner's handbook. I would imagine that cars fitted with a towbar would have a larger transmission cooler hence the price difference but if you are not planning to tow in the future the standard fitment will suffice, the transmission fluid temperature on the Aisins is monitored by the ECU to prevent damage, you will find that top gear will not engage until the fluid has reached its normal working temperature. Be aware that you are looking at a USA website so if ordering you will need to take into account shipping and import duty on the base price, if you are looking for an OEM unit they are around £400 from Lexus but cheaper options are available.