steve2006

As Churchill the dog would say......Oh Yes!, admittedly not helped in the UK by road salt.

Anything like these? If they are this is the part number.

Welcome to the LOC. I’ve never heard of an ABS block failing, what are your symptoms and fault codes Valerijs? There is normally a bleed nipple on the block.

Over the years I have used various types of grease including copper based and moly grease, more recently I have used Red Rubber Grease RRG and found this to last the best between services and keep the pins sliding.

Try turning “Speed limit displayed” to “On”

The rear brake callipers are only single piston which pushes the pad onto the disc on the piston side, the other pad is pushed onto the disc by the movement of the calliper on the slider pins. If the outboard sections of the discs are less worn down than the inboard (piston side) this would confirm sticking or seized pins and not seized callipers. Pins cost around £10.00 each so £40.00 for the set, getting them out if seized starts with WD40 and ends with a slider hammer.

Hello Steve and welcome to the LOC. A very nice informative first post. I only mentioned on the forum the other day just how many IS220d models were for sale, far more than any other model and very cheap. I know they have become notorious for engine problems but the if you can find a half decent one at the right price still worth considering.

Hi Ian and welcome to the LOC. The electrical plugs always seen tight so brute force ma6 be needed and expect broken clips. It is generally the injector seals which cause the problem you have. This may help you.

OEM or aftermarket new sensors? With your mechanics attitude with pulling the bulb out I would consider finding another.

Never had a problem with mine.....they’re glass 😀

Agree, ensure the hub flange face ( where the wheel studs stick out) is spotlessly cleaned.

If DIYing just make sure you can remove the filler plug before the drain plug or you could end up draining the oil but not being able to refill it.

Is the hybrid battery fully charged?

I wonder if the key fob and car “talk” to each other constantly when in range of each other hence the battery drain. Perhaps move the key further away from the car or buy one of those anti theft pouches which block the signals for the key fob. I take it the batteries are a decent make?

Unfortunately it does sound like the infamous Head Gasket failure, was this a DIY repair or garage? The head gasket fails and this allows combustion products ( exhaust gases) to enter the cooling system which in turn over pressurises and finally results in the coolant being blown out the expansion reservoir. Normal test procedure is to insert an exhaust gas analyser probe in the empty reservoir to see if exhaust gases are present, a cylinder compression test or a cylinder pressure check.

Cheers Adrian, No rush just let me know when you are ready and I’ll arrange courier collection from you.

Apparently it was designed this way just in case on a very windy day the boot fully opened and then assisted by the wind continued into the rear window!

Hello and welcome to the LOC Bash. Google search found this 😀 https://drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/experiences/experiences-details/ART2645 Personally I would have the 12V auxiliary battery checked as per Lee’s suggestion and replace it if the original.

We we are due to fly out to Lanzarote soon and the only suspected case there has been ruled out so we are at present not unduly worried. When it comes to flights you take your chances coupled up in an aluminium cylinder with 300 plus other people. My company has just announced that any staff returning from affected areas must self quarantine for 2 weeks on their return...fortunately on full pay.

I am now looking into the possibilities of obtaining repair/rebuild parts for these air struts but would like to get my hands on a faulty/scrap unit for examination and tear down to see what is involved. The separate units are available but need to source the dust covers also. If anyone has such a unit they are willing to donate I would be grateful. I am also contacting SGS Engineering, who many members will know supply the replacement bonnet struts, to see if they could provide a repair service.

Here’s another option, unfortunately there is no price quoted. https://www.arnotteurope.com/products/lexus/ls430-xf30-chassis/xf30-chassis/2003/as-2894-arnott-new-front-air-strut-lexus-ls430-xf30-00-06.html

Yes I have. I once needed to replace my front UCA due to ball joint failure, the choices were a brand new OEM one from Lexus priced at £521.00 or an after market one of dubious quality for around £60.00. I was just looking at the usual ebay offerings and found a brand new OEM one for £130.00 from Nippon Auto Spares....I couldn’t have pressed that Buy it Now button any quicker! Part arrived the next day and was exactly as described, brand new Toyota part in bag. Very lucky as never seen another since but as for the company worth a look. Looks like they have some in stock. https://www.nipponautospares.com/stocklist

Interestingly there is an optional “Rough Road” spring available for the conventional LS430 rears, I assume given the UK road conditions these are fitted as standard here!

Amayama price but bear in mind possible customs and VAT on top.

Hello and welcome to the LOC Toby.