steve2006

It looks reasonable quality but never heard of the make, my cousin is named Roy though and he’s OK 😀 Just make sure the compressor power consumption does not exceed the power supply’s output ( 10A should be adequate though).

I have an OEM 1999 Lexus LS400 driver’s side mat in black if that is any use to you?

Doesn’t sound good at all, I initially thought it was a diesel engine! It may be worth changing the oil and filter but I’m not confident it will sort the issue.

Two different garages Mike, van goes to Vauxhall the car to my local garage. My main concern is how many more vehicles have been damaged in the same way and not noticed?

Hi Max and welcome to the LOC, you don’t need to own a Lexus to be a member and age is no barrier. I had my first car back in 1977 it was a 1000cc Mini which cost me £100.00, 3rd party insurance cost the same £100.00 again. Obviously things have changed somewhat and although you can now buy a decent IS200 for 10 times the amount I paid I doubt the insurance premium would be the same multiplication factor. Pretty sure I have seen young members on here around 23 years old paying several thousand pounds! Good news is you have a couple of years before you can get on the road so time to save and learn everything about them. If when the time comes you still haven’t got all the money together for the insurance but have the car do what I had to......spend all day reversing down the drive and back up again 😀

2 post lifts are now a popular way to raise a vehicle safely from the ground to allow work under earth to be conducted. The lift has 2 adjustable arms each side to suit the majority of vehicles. The actual contact points of the lift should match the jacking points on the vehicle which of course are designed to be structurally built to do so without damage. Unfortunately I have recently discovered damage to both my company Vauxhall Vivaro van after it was main dealer serviced and even worse my Celsior after it’s last MOT. As can be seen from the photographs the sill lips have been crushed at all four contact points of the lifting arms, in the case of my own car I know this has only happened whilst at the garage because it is the only time it has been in the air and I always use a trolley jack under the chassis rails not the sills. Fortunately in both cases there is no structural damage as a result but the metal on both is distorted and crushed. The damage may not be obvious initially being so low down under the vehicle, the van damage was seen from distance as I was walking towards it in a car park prompting further investigation and the car damage was only seen when I decided to remove the sill cladding for cleaning and rust proofing. To have one vehicle damaged could be put down to human error or lack of product use training but to have 2 suggests these lifts are causing repeated damage.

Any good? https://www.amazon.com/312-Motoring-2002-2011-MOLDING-PROTECTORS/dp/B006XKKLNC

The alarm system appears to consist of 4 components. 1 The bonnet switch 2 The Theft Warning Radar Module 3 The warning siren. 4 The boot switch. I would be checking both the bonnet and boot switches, the bonnet switch in particular is obviously subjected to rain and road debris with the boot switch subject to foreign objects which may have dropped in there. Also I’m not entirely sure but can you not adjust the sensitivity of the radar sensor or turn it off completely? This process should be in the Owner’s Manual if possible. This is the basic system layout.

Method 3 below, where it says pump out the reservoir as Phil mentions, use the turkey baster to remove the fluid. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/psflush.html

Apart from a replacement carrier bracket the only other way of extracting the broken pin is to drill a hole in the blind end, enlarge it, pour in the WD40 and then use a hammer and punch to push the stuck slide pin out. You would still need a new slide pin of course but I have a decent used one I can post to you.

Plenty available mail order included branded Contitech and Gates. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=3PK860&_sacat=0

I always add a letter H between the s and i......just about covers the quality then which often leaves you inde****!

What I don’t understand is why companies are still advertising but are closed, for example BMW are running a TV ad promotion at the moment, a nice 30 second ad costing thousands but all their showrooms are closed. OK some products are still available by mail order but surely not a brand new car when you are spending mortgage money on one.

I had a verbal advisory a couple of MOTs ago as it was just efficient enough. I removed the discs/drums, roughened up the friction material, cleaned the drum contact surface, greased all the contact points and then refitted and adjusted the shoes as per standard procedure ( turn the adjuster to just lock up the drum then back off a couple of clicks until the drum turns again). You could immediately tell the difference in that the pedal travel was halved for full application.

Yes Miele was the best followed by AEG, both German companies. Not sure if AEG still exist as a manufacturer now probably gone the same way as Grundig where Curry’s use it as a brand name for crappy quality products. Those of a certain age will remember proper Grundig products built to last like reel to reel tape recorders unlike current “Grundig” products.

Hello Kristjane and welcome to the LOC. Could you provide a little more information about the car, I assume it is left hand drive? On the identification plate there should be a set of 5 letters like AEGPK. If you could provide this extra information I can look up the correct part number for you and probably provide a picture. This may help.

Thanks Paul, I have now ordered the 2 sets of clips from the links you kindly provided, they both said delivery by Monday but with the present situation they arrive when they do. I have another 10 weeks on the present standby rota so plenty of time to do the job. Looking at the box of 500 I will have enough for my lifetime and several generations to follow so if anyone needs a clip or hundred around Derbyshire please let me know and I will be glad to provide FOC if collected.

You have I assume tried putting 2 high tensile bolts in the threaded holes and gradually and evenly tightening them onto the hub face?

Absolutely true, I had a Hotpoint from Curry’s and wasn’t aware at the time it was a specific model made for them. 2 years later the bearings failed and low and behold a sealed drum and small crap bearings. Although I am still working I’m on call (utilities) so at home more than out so last week replaced the waste disposal unit, cut the grass twice and replaced some cupboard handles. On nights last week so not even allowed a beer until after 5.00 pm today.

Hi Stewart and welcome to the LOC. I too keep hankering over the SC430.....ever since one left me standing at traffic lights with my LS400. If you want to post photographs look below the text box and you will see a paper clip and “Click to choose files” click on the words and this should open your files, click on your photo file and select your photograph.

Been think...well plenty of time for it....could you post up the details of the clips you have bought both the door moulding ones and the universal kit please. I may have ago myself if I can get some mail order.

Question is....did you eventually find the clips or was it a case of tentatively asking the other half “You know those clips I bought, have you seen them anywhere” then increase social distancing while waiting for a response. 😀

Having said all the above check this out, if the bulbs and holders are the same. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/878016-1999-ls400-climate-control-bulb-pn.html If you can take a picture of the other side of the panel and post it up I can confirm for you.

There is no Lexus part number as the complete assembly would be replaced by a dealer. The bulbs themselves are available but will require soldering to remove and replace. The bulb Type is called T1, these are generally referred to as “wire ended” so you remove the old bulb and holder, remove the old bulb from the holder, fit the new bulb bending the wires as required then resolder to the board. The green caps as you appear to have already discovered merely push fit over the bulb. Here is an example supplier but if you tap in T1 bulb into ebay they are also available from sellers on there albeit more expensive but given the current situation more likely to supply quicker. https://www.nationallampsandcomponents.co.uk/miniature-light-bulbs/bi-pin-and-wire-terminal-filament/wire-terminal-filament-lamp-t1-12v-60ma-7219?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpejV4ubB6AIVCbrtCh3-dAlXEAQYASABEgLd2fD_BwE

I seem to remember many years ago Bill Gate’s Lexus LS400 was up for sale, I wonder what happened to that?