steve2006

Not sure if the GS is the same but the LS needs to have the key inserted and turned to the ignition position for around 8 minutes then removed and reinserted to reset the immobiliser. Generally the car will happily crank over fine but the engine will not fire, another indication is the red security light remains on after inserting the key.

The seat element is similar to the filament in a light bulb, you apply voltage across it and it gets warm or in the case of a lightbulb it gets warm and produces light. If the filament in the lightbulb breaks the circuit is broken and the light goes out, same applies to the seat heater elements, the voltage is present but no current is flowing so no heat.

Both my front seats now have a split in the front base panel plus general age related wear as shown in the photograph. You can buy repair/ refurbishing kits but after contacting several companies they are saying the rip is too big and a new panel would be needed. So onto plan B find a local company to perform the repairs, first search “Nationwide Repairs” .....”We don’t cover your area” ?? Next company “You will have to bring the seats to us” which is fair enough but they are attached to the car which means leaving the car and then getting home then back to collect. Third point is are these companies any good? All checks out on the website, plenty of before and after pictures and good customer testimonials from Mr.B.Smith of London. So does any other member have previous dealings with these companies and recommendations preferably within the midlands area?

Big Redd are doing some very decent discounts on their rebuild kits at the moment for a lot of Lexus models, these include in some kits the slide pins and new pistons. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_sac=1&_ssn=biggred4u&item=282516551499&_osacat=63717&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=lexus+brake+calliper&_sacat=63717

Hello Wayne and welcome to the LOC. Unfortunately not good news, these engines are notorious for Head Gasket Failure, not starting could be coolant in the cylinders which eventually evaporates and gets blown out and coolant loss without any external leaks points to gasket failure. A few years ago Lexus were replacing engines for this issue under an extended warranty unfortunately not any more.

Certainly none of the old skool “Grease Nipples” we used to have on older cars, the only grease I use are on the braking components, slider pins, pad backing plates, parking brake back plate contact points and levers. Bearings are all sealed for life types so no grease there, subframes and suspension components are all rubber bushed so none there. The only other places where I use white grease sparingly are door hinges, bonnet latch and boot latch. Anyone want to buy a grease gun?

Hello and welcome to the LOC. I hear beer is expensive in Norway also at around £7.00 a bottle but a cruise to see the Fjords is on my bucket list, I’ll let you know when we are coming so you can take us on a tour in the RC-F 😀

Not sure if the same applies but on mine unless the rear fogs are on the fronts will not come on, so try switching the rear fog lights on then see if the fronts then light up also. Seat heaters will 99.9% be the elements open circuit.

Over the last few months I had noticed my windscreen washer jets were becoming very weak and it got to the point where they were just getting the water a few inches up the windscreen so investigation required. Plenty of time spare at the moment ( I’m on call so have to be available) so today decided to take a look. The Celsior is a little different in respect to the Lexus LS400 in that it has the normal screen wash reservoir in the wheel arch but also has a rinse bottle at the front of the car behind the bumper crash bar. The apparent reason is you wash the windscreen and then rinse with plain water from the front tank. The wiper stalk has push forward for one function and push the end button for the other. First check was the washer nozzles which were all clear, (tip to remove them is to slide a credit card under the nozzle facing side which will release the tang allowing it to pop up then repeat at the other side). On the Celsior there is a double pipe connector just before it enters inside the bonnet, I disconnected this and tried the washers, water poured out of both so supply was there. I then concluded that there must be a blockage between the pipes inside the bonnet and the nozzles which there was but here’s the problem. There is a little device which connects both the screen wash and rinse pipes and then has 2 outlets to the nozzles and this was the cause of the problem, nothing was coming out. A quick check on Toyodiy showed the part and provided the part number...putting the number into Amayama revealed it was obsolete. I also think this part is not only a combiner but has a one way valve inside. I decided to order a couple of Y pieces and a one way valve but Toyota decided to use an internal diameter of 4mm on one reservoir pipe and 6mm on the other so also had to get a suitable reducer. The annoying thing was the part price was listed at around £3.00 and for once it has cost me more to make a replacement. I seem to remember other parts for the earlier models which are now becoming obsolete which could be the end of the line if a substitute cannot be obtained.

If it’s the HID bulb sit down now, Lexus price will knock you down. 81110L BULB, DISCHARGE HEADLAMP 90981-20013 45V 35W 2 € 383.13

Lexuspartsdirect on here will supply OEM refills and post them to you. 85214-53080 RH 85214-53090 LH

Invest in a decent quality “smart” charger and charge the battery whilst still connected to the car, these things will monitor both charge and discharge and top up as required.

28th of June 2015 when I witnessed the last ever flight from RAF Finningley (Now Robin Hood,Doncaster Airport).

If you have checked all the fuses then the steering lock actuator would be the likely culprit. 45002 ACTUATOR & SWITCH SET, STEERING LOCK 45002-50010 (08/2000 - 03/2002) 1 € 1,091.68 45002-50011 (04/2002 - 06/2002) 1 € 1,091.68 45002-50012 (07/2002 - 06/2003) 1 € 1,091.68

Just to confirm the steering wheel moves in and out but doesn’t go up or down? New tilt motor on link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-OEM-POWER-TILT-MOTOR-FOR-LEXUS-LS400-LS430-89231-50050/323888204162?hash=item4b693dc982:g:igYAAOSw7e9dWm8X Fitting instructions including video tutorials. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=lexus+ls430+steering+tilt+motor&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari

Sorry Stuart I’ve only just seen your post, unfortunately as you mention most of the removal is done internally from within the boot lid, you probably discovered just as I did that removing the 2 external screws on the cover lens results in bugger all. The good news is that even at 20 odd years old most fixings still come out without shearing off. 😀

If the steering rake is still working it is unusual to have no power to the tilt motor because it is a common supply , how have you confirmed there is no power?

Wow, reversed polarity jump start......that’s certainly moved the goalposts somewhat..... check as suggested all fuses then continue with Code reading.

The car is “Drive by wire” so instead of the old style throttle cable between the pedal and throttle body there is a pedal position sensor integrated on the throttle pedal ( no surprise there), a throttle position sensor on a motorised throttle body and the two are interconnected via the engine ECU (computer). It is worth checking the top area of the pedal to make sure the electrical connector is secure. A common failure is the pedal sensor but before doing anything more have the diagnostic codes read which should confirm the fault and hopefully the component responsible.

As long as it meets manufacturer’s specification you can use any brand you like, personally I would stick to the Toyota stuff though.

Hello Kish and welcome to the LOC. I bought my first Lexus 14 years ago and still got it....just can’t find anything better to replace it with.

These are for my 1994 Celsior , according to the log book it’s “bronze” but according to the plate it’s “Lexus Dark Silver”

Perhaps a combination of dust, old grease and dog hair, WD40 and some tweezers job.

Start with the calliper furthest away from the master cylinder so normally NS rear, OS rear, NS front and OS front. I use one of those one way bleed pipes which cost a couple of pounds. If you are replacing the fluid I generally pump the pedal with the nipple open around 15 times then top up the reservoir again. 25 pumps on the rears and 15 on the fronts generally suffices or use a clear jam jar and empty every top up to see when the fluid becomes clear then you know the new stuff has gone through completely. Gentle with the bleed nipples, a squirt of WD 40 the day before helps and use a single hex ring spanner not a socket to give better feedback on tightness. When pumping the pedal push down slowly to the floor than keep your foot on the pedal to allow it to come back up slowly. Don’t over tighten the bleed nipples they just need nipping up. I always do mine with the wheel off, one at a time, it gives you better access and you can put the jar closer. Hydraulic jack and axle stand for safety. A litre is adequate for replacing the fluid.