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Everything posted by steve2006
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Rich, I have located a secondhand ECU for you if you need one, let me know via PM and I’ll pass the details over to you.
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I think this is the part you are looking for, there is a place in Chesterfield that breaks Soarers called Puremoto https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-LEXUS-SOARER-TT-SC300-SC400-BREAKING-FOR-PARTS/153915792212?hash=item23d6189b54:g:SbAAAOSwUdlWgY~P
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Mine has been completely the opposite apart from routine servicing I had mainly minor faults which I have been able to DIY, I even rebuilt my starter motor when the dreaded click click symptoms appeared, that was over ten years ago and been fine since. The cam belt was done by my local garage who mistakenly quoted £100.00 labour. I recently had a rear spring break but given the roads that is expected. No blowing Y pipe, no flickering dash illumination. The only niggles at the moment are a faulty power steering idle up valve and the speedo reading low until it warms up which along with the front seats will get sorted during this lock down. Suspension wise it has had both front LBJs and the near side UCA (pothole) all replaced with OEM parts. Rear brake pipes have also been replaced. Basically it owes me nothing.
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I think there is a reset button somewhere for the TPMS but chances are the sender unit on the tyre valve has failed.
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Was that price including the parts Mihai? If so I’m guessing just the water pump and belt but not the idlers and tensioner.
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I have the same job to do on my Celsior, a fellow member supplied the required fixing clip details which I ordered and arrived a few weeks ago. My sill edge is also bent due to, I suspect, poor lift arm positioning at the MOT.
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- ls460l
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I have also read what Chris refers to regarding the copper contacts and washers causing a high resistance. Could I please suggest you invest in your safety, buy a pair of these gloves and wear them at all times when working on the hybrid battery pack. They may save your life!!!!! I have to wear them my self for my job and admittedly they are not easy to work in but provide protection against electric shock. Class O electricians gloves rated up to 1000V.
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Hello Joe and welcome to the LOC. You’ve wisely chosen the best way to go with replacement parts when it comes to new Lexus prices for them, fortunately they are reliable so you generally won’t need many. Rusty wheel arches could be a build up of road salt enhanced mud behind the lips, I usually get in there with a hose pipe and brush then apply sealant to prevent further spread. The exhaust is not stainless if standard, those days passed by after 2000 on the LS400 models, at least it’s easier to weld.
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Funny you should mention that Stuart but I have checked the MOTs for this one and the other 2 new listings on fleabay. This 1994 one has advisories for both rear wheel bearings and a front suspension ball joint, the other green ones also have advisories for corrosion on the L registration plus paint problems and the other one which appears to be a motor dealer sale has advisories for worn tyres and a history of poor maintenance plus the carpets are filthy. OK I know these cars are getting on now but personally I would be ashamed to present a car for sale in any of these conditions and then expect top money for them.
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We did before the virus have one going ahead at Coventry but obviously it has now been cancelled. There will be nothing in the pipeline until things get more back to “normal”.
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Yes, that’s about the going rate from Lexus but it is always worth phoning a few local dealers for prices.
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Looks like it’s just rolled out of the Lexus showroom! Regarding the key, there are several genuine Lexus second hand fobs on ebay varying in price from £40.00. The key blade is a separate item available for £6.99. Provided you have the master a decent auto locksmith would be able to cut the blank blade, fit it into the fob and reprogram the purchased fob to the car. I would estimate £100-120 all in. If you fancy a brand new one first ensure you are sitting down. Around £30.00 for an uncut key, £160.00 for a cut key, fob £400.00 plus programming!
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Celsiors are somewhat different to the LS400 in that there are 4 specifications, A, B, C and C-F . The top model (C-F) is the full spec model with features such as reclining heated massaging rear seats. Mine is a B spec so has leather unheated seats. Unlike the UK you could specify options such as cloth or leather seating, sunroof etc.
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I never thought of that Stuart, mine has never had heated seats as it was an option on the Celsior. I did notice there are a couple of unused plugs on the seat loom which without confirming I would assume are there for that purpose. The only other problem is that I have no switches for them mounted under the ash tray but I could source those from a breaker.
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Well with another 5 weeks on standby shifts and little in the way of call outs I today stripped the front passenger seat base down as the leather has split so needs a new panel fitting. Removal of the complete seat took around 10 minutes, 4 bolts and one electrical multi plug. It took me around 90 minutes with lots of how to reassemble photographs taken during the strip down. As usual with Lexus it all came to pieces without too much drama, the backrest was separated with just 4 bolts and unleashing of part of the electrical loom. The biggest job was removing all the fixing rings that secure the leather cover to the foam base, due to the lack of working space and their design ( like small key rings) I cut them out. Having studied the process refitting will be done with “Hog Rings” which with the special pliers are on order. Just got to get it sent off now to the upholsterer, once repaired I will then hopefully put it all back together, clean it and dye it. I did look into new covers from Toyota but at nearly $1000.00 each for the base cover only I spluttered and moved on! The spring set up is amazing as shown in the last picture, the item circled is one of the hog springs holding things together.
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Hello and welcome to the LOC. No problems with pictures, just click on the “Click to choose files” at the bottom of the dialogue box and go from there. It sounds like you got a nice one there with ultra low mileage, if you don’t mind disclosing the cost it would be interesting to see it.
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Hello Chris and welcome to the LOC. There is as you probably appreciate a lot more than just sticking a larger diameter set of wheels on a car, obviously the stud pattern PCD needs to be the same and the bore which can if needed be corrected with spigot rings. The main factor regarding brake and arch clearance is the offset i.e. how far they stick out both towards the suspension and arches. Additionally this can lead to increased wheel bearing loading which in turn may affect reliability and handling. Tyre size will also affect the rolling radius leading to speedometer errors which also needs taking into account. There are various websites that allow you to compare the original wheel and tyre set up and a proposed set up, they will show how offset is affected for those wheel arch clearance problems. I don’t know if parts are available but you could also consider lowering the suspension to attain a closer arch fit to the current wheels.
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Probably a headlight level sensor has failed or the link bar has broken.
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Engine Paint / Rust Paint recommendations?
steve2006 replied to PeterTorbet's topic in Engine & Transmission
Same problem here as I use an ipad, just ordered a cheap refurbished laptop for the same reason for £99.00, Windows 10, has a DVD drive and 12 month warranty. None left at that price I got the last one sorry https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOSHIBA-SALE-NOW-ON-FAST-CHEAP-LAPTOPS-WINDOWS-10-FULL-1-YEARS-WARRANTY-WI-FI/283827812337?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=585310417515&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 -
Engine Paint / Rust Paint recommendations?
steve2006 replied to PeterTorbet's topic in Engine & Transmission
Just thought, you have the 460, I just hope that the bearings are the same as those in the picture are for the 400.