steve2006

Pretty sure I have seen some suitable adjustable FPRs. There is no screw in mine on the LS400, it has a plunger which pops up to indicate fuel pressure is present. The original type is available with part number 23207-46010 for around $70.00.

Hello Jesse and a late welcome to the LOC. The IS250 has quite a following on the club and pretty sure the car you have created will stir interest.

From the description it would appear it was bought as an investment which seems to be paying off now. I paid £3750.00 for mine with 38,000 miles nearly 15 years ago. Love to know what he paid for it and where it came from.

Just spotted this one, up at £5600.00 at the moment and reserve not met. Mot checks out with just one failure years ago for a dodgy tyre. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-Lexus-LS400-with-DHP-in-Silver-Genuine-30-718-miles-from-new/174304461613?hash=item28955b032d:g:81cAAOSwURNe1qDZ

The passenger side is OK but this is something I will do on the driver’s seat, an additional pair of foam strips will bulk out the rear panels more. The only problem doing that is getting the hog clips back on, it’s very tight to start with. One thing I have noticed the company supplies a compressed air can for the airbrush which is not even going to be enough for one seat. Priced at £10.00 a can I soon sorted out an adaptor for my garage compressor for £2.45.

OK the rest of the kit arrived so repairs have now continued. Having reluctantly taken a scouring pad soaked in some solution to remove the original finish and cleaned down with isopropyl alcohol I followed the instructions further completing the tear repair, filling, smoothing and than applying 8 coats of “Leather Binder”. This has made the leather a lot softer and more pliable. A sponge dabbed coat of colour was followed by a spray coat of the same on the bolsters and front panel. I tried to mix the correct colour shade but despite my best mad scientist impression failed so have now sent a leather sample to the supplier for an exact match. Picture shown is at the present stage, it still needs the rear panels dabbing and spraying, 2-3 more coats of paint then finishing lacquer applying. I’m not expecting perfection (just in pursuit of it) but I think it’s certainly already looking better.

IS250 part number is 64530-53011, you don’t want to know the Lexus price! DIY tutorial. Not sure about “genuine” but price is good. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153175142055?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Ftype%3D2%26pub%3D5575403537%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338343596%26item%3D153175142055%26customid%3Dvms%253Aeb%253Ap%253A153175142055%253BCjwKCAjwt-L2BRA_EiwAacX32QGi3YdNKPXFwGtU0XXHkPzEP5lbyboSTzedrtUlmwV625-tOnHHcRoCIK0QAvD_BwE%26gclid%3DCjwKCAjwt-L2BRA_EiwAacX32QGi3YdNKPXFwGtU0XXHkPzEP5lbyboSTzedrtUlmwV625-tOnHHcRoCIK0QAvD_BwE%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2456322229204%26rvr_ts%3D7e3c77ae1720a9c15eb448acffd084d8&ul_noapp=true

You may find it difficult finding a used one as you don’t find many being broken, there was one being broken on this forum in January if you look in the posts. The part number is 64771-24041-BO which comes up as “Medium Charcoal” (The only colour listed I think) There is a supplier on selling them for £90.00 new so a good saving on the £150.00 Lexus are asking if you want to take that route. https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/lexus/lexus-6477124040b0-64771-24041-b0/

I don’t have the electrical wiring diagram for the IS models (LS400s only) but I found a couple of things. There is apparently a 20A “Door Fuse” which could cause this and I know you have already mentioned your electrician has checked the actuator but did he actually apply power directly to it as shown in the picture below to confirm it is working? Given that the boot opens with the key which is a mechanical operation and all 3 electrical methods don’t the item common to them all, apart from the valet switch, is the actuator. There is also a relay normally mounted on the internal fuse board. When you activate the remote boot release button you should be able to hear a click as the relay energises. Open the boot manually with the key and leave it open then activate the remote button listening for the relay click.

No problem. EGR Valve to cooler gasket is 25627-37010 EGR Valve to EGR pipe is 25634-37010 Sorry no prices listed at present but both should be less than £10.00.

Does the release button on the boot itself work OK?

All finished now with air intake and top engine covers back on. When I ordered the parts I suddenly realised at check out that I had used a credit card which charges for foreign transactions so went back to use my Halifax card which doesn’t. I seem to have messed this up because another set of HT leads have arrived, I can return them but given the cost and loss of shipping I thought I would ask if any member would like to buy them first. They are as seen in the above picture NGK with a lifetime warranty, price is what they cosy £80.00 delivered against the UK price of around £120.00.

Given the solenoid is sticking and it is being flagged up as P0403 by the ECU I would replace the EGR as a complete assembly ( the solenoid is not available as a separate component). There are quite a few new OEM ones on ebay for around the £200.00 mark, if you want new gaskets let me know for the part numbers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=lexus+ct200h+egr&_sacat=0

Check out the next video too, the 6000 SUX in a museum.

There was a recall for the engine ECU on the 95-97 LS400 due to the engine stalling after a high speed run, for example coming off a motorway and slowing down at the end of the slip road. I hope it has sorted your problem but if you had the battery off this may have had the same effect as replacing the CTS. The easiest way to check whether the CTS is working is to start the car from cold and watch the RPM, when the temperature gauge gets to a quarter up you should see the RPM drop slightly and then as it approaches halfway the RPM should step down to around 650 RPM. This indicates the ECU CTS is reacting correctly to the temperature change and the ECU is receiving the signal and adjusting the idle speed.

Have you tried closing all the doors, locking the car with the key then unlocking again with the key?

Hold on a minute..this topic is for RoboCop, let’s not start drifting off topic yawl 😀

For those who remember these films ( for those that don’t please google 😀) Here’s something you don’t see everyday never mind have the chance to buy with all that money saved from not going on holiday. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254208236291?ul_noapp=true&fbclid=IwAR3qJc9ddc3iDCx1Dx3XlmKHqYjAz3kCHS3zuyvUqjPIyg4fLiNvxgHHCzA

There should be 2 PCVs one one each side so it looks, from your pictures, that the driver’s side has been removed, if it is blowing out at that point it would indicate positive crankcase pressure. A compression test is normally carried out with all the spark plugs removed then test each cylinder by cranking for a few seconds with the throttle held wide open. If a cylinder is found to have low compression a little engine oil is then squirted down the plug hole into the cylinder and the compression test repeated. If the result of this is an improved pressure this generally indicates worn piston rings, if there is little or no change it would indicate leaking valves are the cause. Come back when you have done the test, expected values on a good engine are around the 170/180 PSI mark.

From what I have read sunroofs/moon roofs just create more problems. Allowing water to leak into the vehicle from either blocked drains or bad seals, rusting frames, mechanical and electrical failures to name just a few. All models have AC so little point having one for extra ventilation. Gone are the days when you could open the sunroof then allow the kids to stand on the seats with their heads out of it whilst doing 5 MPH through Blackpool’s illuminations.

Mine doesn’t have one but that is common in Japan as it helps prevent heat build up inside the car.

Don’t the newer models learn driving styles and adapt to that, perhaps with you just taking it steady the ECU wasn’t ready to react to a sudden change but is now relearning hence the improvement noticed.

I’ll second that, mild steel OEM system so back boxes will also be ready so replace it all with stainless.

Hello Neil, welcome to the LOC, and please accept my condolences on the loss of your Dad. It seems a little strange that a garage with the correct diagnostic equipment didn’t find any fault codes which would help pinpoint the problem. The electronic throttle body is termed “Drive by wire” so there is no physical throttle cable between the pedal and the throttle body. Instead there is a pedal position sensor which detects the position of the pedal, a throttle position sensor on the throttle body which senses the position of the throttle butterfly, a motor to operate the butterfly and a computer between the 2 which performs communication and controls operation. Without any diagnostic codes finding the cause of your problem is not as easy but I would start at the accelerator pedal sensor which is fairly easy to access and check. Look to make sure it is firmly attached to the support bracket, it is plugged in firmly to the loom and the loom is undamaged. The picture below should help you find it, N3 is the sensor in question.

Good point regarding the oil level. The PCV may always be open though if there is constant over pressurisation of the crank case due to a worn engine, if the pressure wasn’t released it could start blowing seals out instead.