steve2006

Hi Maureen, Sorry only just spotted your post, price new from Lexus doesn’t look too bad. Try our resident Lexus Dealer on the forum...Lexus Parts Direct who may be able to do a better price.

I use FJ for mine, fully comprehensive, limited mileage and agreed value ( which I need to increase next renewal looking at recent prices). Last renewal actually fell a few pounds.

Without going into the technical reasons it will still work without it but not recommended, you may find you have to turn the motor pulley to get it to spin. If you can take a picture of the capacitor or post the information on it I may have one knocking about which I’m happy to send to you.

Or if you’re not electrically confident, just make sure the plug is the same on your old one first. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/979314-031-220V-Foot-Control-Pedal-with-Cord-fit-for-Singer-HOME-SEWING-MACHINE/274281700549?hash=item3fdc769cc5:g:gj4AAOSwFhBeUCZb

I think A2Z have been mentioned previously regarding the quality of their parts, seem to remember front Upper Control Arm rubber ball joint covers rotting away months after fitment.

After reading a GS suspension topic I decided to see what information was available on the system fitted to my Celsior. The full name is Toyota Piezo TEMS which is classed as a semi active system and developed in 1989, the air suspension system fitted around the same time is called Sky Hook which rings a bell because that’s the same name as the optional Maserati suspension. This led me to the Toyota 75 years website where your read begins. https://www.toyota-global.com/company/history_of_toyota/75years/index.html There is also a timeline for all Toyota models including Lexus.

Good result, someone did you a favour at £40.00 was it a private breaker? I remember buying a used engine ECU for mine a few years ago as a spare for £20.00 you can almost add another zero on them now! However when it comes to awkward jobs nothing beats the LS starter motor position...between the V under the intake!

Rears involve removing the rear sear and parcel shelf to gain access to the top mount but I found the rest straightforward.

I tend to hold the car on the main brake pedal so the big one in the middle, when your ready to move off release the brake pedal and move your foot to the accelerator pedal to move. Not too sure about the CVT gearboxes but on a conventional automatic in D (Drive) releasing the brake pedal will allow the car to “creep” i.e. begin to move without touching the accelerator giving you good slow speed control.

Lexus tend to have a foot operated “parking brake” with a release lever on the dash, the “Park” position on the shifter locks up the transmission so also acts like a brake. With the parking brake I tend to pull the release lever, press the pedal down then release the lever to preserve the ratchet mechanism. To release the parking brake I place my foot on the pedal pull and hold the release lever then allow the pedal to rise under my foot, this prevents the pedal from just flying back up when you pull the release. Pedals run Parking on left, main service hydraulic brakes centre ( bigger pedal) and accelerator pedal on the right. Just remember with an automatic your left foot is redundant...using it will result in you suddenly stopping as you will hit a brake pedal, if you find it difficult try folding your left leg underneath you on the seat....that stops you trying to use it 😀

Just remembered an amusing thing to do with electric cars. You always get the day dreamers in supermarket car parks sauntering in the middle of the lane with wobbly the trolley. When you get 2 metres behind (social distancing) and they suddenly become aware of the silent car and scatter to the sides in blind panic. 😀

Next time you go in don’t say “Good morning” say “Google” 😀

The fact that the engine under cover was still attached surprised me, I’m down to my last good spare one now. I always thought the PAG oil was a measured amount same with the required refrigerant quantity for a given system. The AC guy should purge the system to remove any moisture then pressurise with nitrogen and UV dye to check for leaks then if all is good refill with refrigerant. Personally I never turn mine off, I think it keeps things lubricated and it has never been re-gassed in 25 years. With a 4 litre V8 there is very little difference in fuel consumption and if the outside temperature falls to low it shuts down automatically. A very good comprehensive tutorial BTW, make sure you come back with the finished results report.

That’s some press, IKea flat pack too, just hope the left handed spanner isn’t missing from the nuts and bolts pack 😀 Got to ask, would it not have been more cost and time effective to just replace the complete hub?

I would first confirm with the garage if the filter was due to be changed as part of the service and if it has been replaced if required. Resetting takes a minute.

Hello Jon and welcome to the LOC. It’s a bit of a learning curve for you but make sure you keep your left foot on the footrest to avoid sudden unexpected emergency stops when you try to put the clutch down! I also found pulling out from a junction in a gap in traffic was a bit un-nerving when you don’t have the reassuring sound of a petrol engine. Once you get used to it I’m sure you will be very happy with a Lexus.

Just by looking at the left filter it looks like a fake, with no cross bracing between the fingers you can understand why it would resonate. A database search lists the correct type but the other one is not even recognised even on Amayama. It does make you wonder, is there any country of origin marked on the suspect one? Some of the oil filters have the 5 numbers and five letter format.....does this mean there are also quality issues with these?

Sorry Roy I can’t help but I wouldn’t recommend this car sales place where they fit new cam belts.....to chain driven engines! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-GS-450h/353105297678?item=353105297678&pageci=d9609f1c-4d52-4835-af40-b845783ec870&redirect=mobile

Not only that but the inner bearing sleeve will need removing from the hub flange. Given the cost of the bearing alone plus the labour to remove the remnants and fit the new one it may be a better option to replace the complete hub assy. BTW did you remove the bearing fixing circlip fitted on the rear of the bearing face? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2005,ls430,4.3l+v8,1430994,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636

Hello Xerxes and welcome to the LOC. Must admit I do like the RX7 but the engine problems and road tax put me off ownership, apparently it’s common to transplant the Lexus LS400 V8 engines in them. We’ve had a few SC430s coming up recently and again I can see the attraction.

Indeed.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LPG-06-LEXUS-LS430-FACE-LIFT-MK2-4-3-V8-6-SPD-LSH-PREM-PACK-152K-HPI-CLR-NICE/303594586313?hash=item46afa5c0c9:g:UFcAAOSwVSte46ja

I wonder where the Mark X ended up? Back to his usual choice of Lexus again now with a comprehensive 3 month warranty ( covering engine and transmission only) probably subject to as many Ts & Cs you can write on the back of a used cigarette packet and worth about the same. The “Small blemish” on the rear bumper that looks more like “the old boy” reversed into a brick wall before hanging up his licence. ”Indeed” another one to avoid.

Normally you can obtain any service data from Lexus on production of proof of ownership, this should include any past warranty work.

As this is normally retrofitted it could be anywhere. However the boot/trunk area is where you need to start looking, removing the trim from around the rear of the light clusters should reveal the additional wiring. From there follow the wiring back to the black box emulator. Another way is to follow the multi core wiring from the trailer socket which will also lead to the controller.