steve2006

I have for some time been considering buying a later model (2001 Celsior) which I understand is still on sale in the London area but I held back initially due to the lockdown then the travel distance and now seeing air suspension problems I’m back to spending money getting my present car more presentable. The roof looks like it’s been attacked by cats, the lacquer started to craze in the middle but over the years it has spread across the roof almost front to back and side to side. My local and trusted paint shop said it has been caused by a quick flash over job probably when the car was still in Japan or first in the UK. My carelessness also means alloy wheels need refurbishing. The total cost is £720.00 but I feel it is worth it.

I think I’ve been very fortunate with my Celsior, it is fitted with conventional springs but the dampers/shock absorbers are TEMS so piezo electronically controlled to adjust the damping dependent on speed and other factors. Given that the car is now 26 years old ( I bought it in 2006) the only suspension parts replaced are both front LBJs and the near side upper front control arm ( all OEM and the latter caused by a pothole!) plus a rear spring broke so I replaced both. OK the annual mileage is very low perhaps a couple of thousand (now around 90,000) which helps along with being garaged but at the end of the day it owes me nothing.

I can’t really recommend anywhere without knowing your location?

I also leave my AC on all the time but also use an aerosol cleaner annually. The ones I use are set off sitting on the rear transmission tunnel with the AC set to fully cold and all vents open.

Ooh that’s bad then, thanks for the info wasn’t aware of that.

Somebody mention seats? 😀😀😀Just gotta go out and check me them there Hog Rings for sure.

Something weird here, according to the ISF parts diagram the transmission oil cooler is a completely separate unit mounted remotely somewhere behind the near side front bumper. This would explain why the fluid has been leaking in this area. Question is how can the engine coolant and transmission fluid mix given this?

Could you post up the “Specialist” who looked at your transmission so other members could avoid given the teeth sucking and non communication? There appear to be several other specialists in your area maybe take a look at their reviews and try another one. The solenoids do tend to get gummed up in an old fluid situation and as other members have mentioned a fluid flush and new filter can improve matters. The actual solenoids can be accessed by removing the sump at which point they can be removed, cleaned up and tested for functionality. Another solution would be to fit a known good secondhand transmission from a breaker. Image below shows the solenoids at the top.

Sounds like you want a custom job? Plenty of places offering cat back stainless steel systems built to your requirements in the UK but I notice your location is “Other/Non UK so unsure what you have available.

It is part of the complete strut mount, mine have been like that for years and it’s never been mentioned on an MOT. If you want to replace it the part number is 48760-48040 Support Assy Rear Suspension LH. Priced at a mere £160.00 from Lexus dealers. If I were you I would just buy a universal steering rack gaitor for a few pounds cut it top to bottom. fold it around the broken one and secure it with a couple of cable ties. Bare in mind the strut will need to be removed to fit the original part.

My money is on the battery, especially with the alarm going off randomly.

Hi Steve and welcome to the LOC. Is this the 6 cylinder or the 4 cylinder Beams engine? Pictures are always welcome please feel free to post some up. I also have a 1994 JDM import Toyota Celsior purchased in 2006 with 38,000 miles which is still going strong at 90,000 miles now.

Hi Adam and welcome to the LOC. It is either a complete coincidence that this problem has occurred since you bought the car or you have encountered a slightly devious seller who knew about the problem but has got away with it. Had it shown up during a test drive you could have walked away. First thing is check the fuel cap as mentioned, second is a diagnostic code read which should help pin point the problem. If after the diagnostics you need parts there are cheaper sources than Lexus for OEM.

I wonder if Lexus actually do any re-gassing or use a 3rd party, personally I would find a decent independent local AC specialist as it is generally a more cost effective option.

Looking at the position of the leak it points to the cooler area, there is a lot of pipe work, connecting hoses and clamps around there so hopefully nothing major and no transmission damage.

I have this for a 2008-2010 model.

Thanks for the compliments guys. It’s not perfect, I think I managed to get the joining patch in crumpled at the front of the base resulting in an uneven lump and you can still see the line where it was torn moving back from there if you enlarge the picture. There are also a few spray gun splatters which I missed before the lacquer top coat went on and trapped dust but I think it looks better than it did before starting. I’ve now started the driver’s seat in situ, the tear is in the same place so that’s been closed and filled. Obviously the seat will have to come out for prep and spraying at some point but I can still use the car to that point. Here’s a word of warning.....to remove the original coating the kit uses Acetone or as I know it nail varnish remover. It is very aggressive so if anyone starts doing their nails in your car I would suggest stopping them unless you want stripped seats.

So I finally reassembled the seat this morning as I have a rare weekend off from being on call. A few bolts, clips and hog rings and back together. Reinstalled in the car and all working. As this was my first attempt I wasn’t expecting perfection even though it is a Lexus of sorts but overall it’s come out OK. The paint was so much easier to apply with a spray gun as opposed to the air brush supplied with the kit, dust is the major enemy and perhaps a garage was not the ideal location even when vacuumed. But now I have done one I feel more confident with the driver’s seat plus I can’t spend weeks with it out of the car unlike the passenger one.

There seems to be a lot of safety related features around the ignition barrel, on mine you cannot remove the key unless the transmission is in park and you cannot turn the key unless the foot brake is held down. You can hear clicks as the interlocks engage. Worse scenario I guess is a new ignition barrel and keys.

The transmission is an Aisin A650e the link below should help with parts diagrams and sources for the solenoid. https://www.automaticchoice.com/uploads/producten/pdfs/Catalogue/aw_a650.pdf Typing Aisin A650e shift solenoid into google produces many UK suppliers.

Do you have the full part number i.e. 10 digits as the one you supplied doesn’t appear on the database for 2002 LEXUS GS300/430 (JZS160R-BEAQFQ)

Hi Emran and welcome to the LOC. Yes they are left and right handed so cannot be stopped from side to side. Your method seems a little labour intensive if it were possible to swop them over from one side to the other. You can normally detect wear in the bearings by spinning the wheel and rocking it top to bottom and side to side when jacked up. If you want a complete hub check out Rockauto based in the USA they offer many options and parts generally arrive in a few days.

I have noticed that most of the local TV weather forecasts now spend the first minute showing you pictures taken by viewers and then go on to tell you what has already happened. Eventually you then get terms such as “ may be, could and possibly” when it comes to the actual forecast. If I made as many errors in my job as the Met’ Office I would have been sacked years ago! The most accurate way of forecasting the weather?………Look out of the window.

The kit is still available on eBay, I did mine around 10 years ago with the same kit and it’s been fine since...I can’t say the same for my back which never fully recovered! If you are DIYing expect 8-10 hours to do the job. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-STARTER-MOTOR-REPAIR-KIT-ALL-MODELS-VARIANTS-Free-Helpline-Website/290913336080?hash=item43bbc93b10:g:fYcAAOxygo9Q6ynu Starter part number is 28100-50052

Hi Louise and welcome to the LOC. I would begin by checking under the passenger front seat carpet to see if there is a spare previously unused connector tucked away under it, if there is job done, make a cut in the carpet under the seat ( see where it comes out on the driver’s side for a reference) and plug into the seat. If not you will have to get a new loom made up or find one from a breaker. I am hoping that the new seat doesn’t have airbags or the whole job gets very complicated!