steve2006

I wonder if they follow the same style of announcements as most TV competitions? ”In no particular order……..the Lexus dealer leaving the competition tonight is”……………………………………………….zzz…………………………..

The older you become the greater the amount of black tie occasions you attend.

I’ve never been able to insure my car with LV as they only insure green cars, my last one was silver and the present one blue.

The replacements are going to be “New old stock” so having been stuck on the shelf for 20 odd years they are then brought into service. The internal seals have also not moved for the same period of time and must have deteriorated then “priming” causes further damage by movement. I think we all know about LS400 bonnet struts loosing pressure over time and I would think the same applies here.

Most of the other Lexus models wheels will fit except the CT200h and the LS600h which have a different bolt pattern PCD. The things to check are they obviously need to be 5 stud with a PCD of 114.3 which is equivalent to 4.5” imperial so some Chrysler and other wheels also fit. The bore needs to be 60.1mm to fit over the hubs but anything over this size can be reduced to this with spigot rings. Offset is also important into how far the wheels stick in or out and the normal range is 42-47. If going aftermarket you may also have to replace the type of wheel nuts to cone types. Link below gives examples. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/lexus/sc/2004/

If you don’t mind a bit of DIY Jeff and have access to a rotary wire brush and drill it won’t hurt to clean it up and apply some of the stuff mentioned by Linas. As he suggests it will hopefully keep that structural and possibly terminal MOT failure off the sheet for a few more years.

Oh crap! I didn’t watch it all, I’ve now hidden it, always watch the complete video.

If it is just surface rust then removal of the rust and rust prevention treatment should suffice. For steel to rust the primary ingredients are moisture H2O and Oxygen O2 which combines to form FE2O3 Rust. Anti rust treatments if applied correctly inhibit both moisture and oxygen reaching the steel thus preventing the rust from forming. The problem then is any gaps or cracks in the treatment allows the rusting to recommence except now it creeps under the treatment unseen so requires regular monitoring and remedial action. The biggest issue is structural rust in sills is when it eats through the metal from the inside out due to the box section design, this is no longer surface rust as a poke with a screwdriver or an official MOT hammer will soon reveal

I was given a VW Polo once when my LS400 was accident damaged. Once I got the LS back I put the Polo in the boot, took it to the local recycling centre and put it in the scrap metal skip.

It’s not fun I’ve done one! OK google “Lexus Main fuse replacement” Then click on “videos” These will show you what to do. Make sure the battery is disconnected first.

I don’t know if they are any good but tools are available on eBay just search “Toyota Air Suspension line remover tool”

Who remembers looking at those pictures in Haynes manuals showing the various states of the spark plugs and comparing those from your own engine which at 40,000 miles was burning a quart of oil per 1000? 😀

Hi Jeff and welcome to the LOC. You mention a remap and intake manifold done ( could you elaborate on the latter as to what was actually done?) Has the EGR valve ever been checked/cleaned/replaced?

Plus the Government now receive 20% IPT on the cost ( VAT by any other name) which was gradually increased to this amount over the years!

Still no response from the OP, perhaps fixed now then?

I’ve looked on the Toyota parts database and can only see one type of numberplate mounting bracket with no specific one for Italy. If you could provide more information regarding the Italian version I will try to find it for you. 52114BBRACKET, FRONT BUMPER EXTENSION MOUNTING52114-48460152114-48510"F-SPORT"*(F)1

You can adjust the height sensors to drop it to a certain extent.

Hi Alan and welcome to the LOC. Are you planning on running this on the OEM system or changing everything to aftermarket? Reason I ask is that the newest UCF11 is now 30 years old and if the struts are original you’re very lucky but I wouldn’t push that luck any further given that they are around £1K each even if still available. Adjustable coil overs are probably a better option both for cost and reliability.

Anything except Paella again, it’s the Spanish equivalent of a bag of chips, every mouthful tastes the same, you always get to much and you end up leaving some

All you need to do now is have the rear door windows tinted and hang an Eau de Cannabis air freshener from the interior mirror, just like mine😀

Funny story here…some friends of ours have a villa in Spain and they take their UK registered car on the ferry and then drive down. At the Spanish border they were pulled in for an inspection and the custom official was delighted to find a 40” LCD TV in the boot knowing that taxes would have to be paid on it. Apparently his face dropped like a stone when a Spanish purchase receipt was waved in his face. 😀

Wow that’s a great project result, just need a heat seeking automatic scatter gun mounted on the boot lid in case the barstools return again! Given the amount of grief they have caused you I would consider that “reasonable force”

Given the low mileage I would be more concerned with the hybrid battery condition. If it has a FLSH and has a current Hybrid Battery Health check from Lexus I would feel more assured.

Hi Craig and welcome to the LOC. The fuel pump should be fed with a constant 12 Volts supply when running under load. I would check the B+ incoming supply to the fuel pump relay and then check the output voltage to the pump both of which should be at full battery voltage. I would suspect either a faulty relay or a bad connection to it, the pins are known for corrosion issues. The basic diagram below shows the power routing to the pump. I’m not sure if there is another relay the same in the fusebox which you could try swopping over to see if it cures the fault or you could strap the B+ connection to the FP connection in the diagnostic socket to TEMPORARILY bypass the relay. If you need further help please ask

Firstly what was the current draw shown on the clamp meter? With that amount of current and reversed polarity we are looking at open circuits rather then short circuits, the ECU may have protection but this is generally just a series diode which would have been easily overcome by the current. When you say “no other fuses I can see are blown” there are 4 fuse boxes in this car all of which need checking with a multimeter. You will also need a power distribution diagram showing what goes to which fuse and where from there. The video below is just the beginning of the diagnosis I’m afraid and a factory Electrical workshop manual another on the list.