steve2006

Hi Carl and welcome to the LOC. I found this if it helps but no fog light being a US vehicle. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/854080-help-please-on-rear-lights-wiring.html With it being Can Bus and LED lights not sure about a 7 pin socket as you need the 12 volt system for conventional lights on the trailer, have you got the wiring adaptor part number PZ417F156B00 ?

From past experience the symptoms of a contaminated sensor or damaged reluctor ring causes the ABS to kick in just before the car comes to a stop when you get a pulsation of the brake pedal under your foot and a crunching sound. It also doesn’t tend to flag up a fault code. I would continue to check the front sensors also...a bit of metallic grit could be causing all your problems.

Similar here, whilst deciding what to do with my Celsior they sent me a VW Polo! Rang them up and told them to come and collect it, bought a GS300 as temporary car which I later sold for the same price to the guy who repaired the Celsior. Bonus was 3rd party insurer gave me an extra £500.00 cash payment for not having the loan car.

Scotland is very deceiving when it comes to distance, been up there a few times for SSE and Scottish Hydro. Had to travel to a Wick once and got around Edinburgh with the sat nav still showing nearly 200 miles to go, turned it off and on threatened it with an open window exit really not believing it was nearly another 4 hours drive. Same with Skye, crossed the bridge and sat nav said 35 miles.....same argument with nav along with thinking “it’s only a little island” but with roads like an alpine pass and complete darkness yes it was another hour away.

It’s been a while since I last looked but at the time no one repaired the brake actuator units from the GS300. The fact that they don’t use a conventional vacuum servo system and numbers on the road probably means that repair is not possible due to spares issues or not viable due to low volumes. I know a couple of owners who scrapped the car due to this problem. Before assuming it is the actuator have you had the fault codes read as it may just be either crud or rust build up on the ABS sensor/ reluctor ring or a broken ring ( very common and replacements are available).

Does look excessive, was the previous owner the lighthouse keeper at Scarborough or worked in the salt mines in Cheshire.

I’ve noticed recently that parts even for later Lexus models are becoming obsolete, pretty sure I checked up a part recently for a 2008 model which came up no longer manufactured.

First thing to check is the pollen filter as the chances are it has never been replaced. Check the front carpets in the footwell area for dampness indicating a heater matrix leak. Then get yourself an AC anti bacterial aerosol. Set the AC to fully cold, open all the vents then set off the aerosol as per the instructions. I think you can also buy them where you blow it into the fresh air intakes.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. Very nice external/ internal colour combination, looks very nice with sensible mileage too. Looks like a Karcher K2 with snow foam attachment 😀

Blimey! I’m pleased mine was already UK registered before I bought it. Stopped looking at importing a newer model from Japan, the prices are OK until you find the shipping costs more than the car. Plus I don’t fancy 10 weeks sat in Bristol or Liverpool Port. 😀

Mine is a Japanese model import so I had similar problems with insurance, most mainstream insurers wouldn’t consider it so it was specialist only. To be fair the premiums were around the same as a UK model but since the car reached 20 years old I have been able to obtain “Classic” insurance with limited yearly mileage for half the price. The UK annual test (MOT) computer also doesn’t list my car so it is done as a LS430. I don’t think it is a legal requirement but you may want to convert the speedometer from KPH to MPH and if you don’t have a rear fog light you will need one fitting for the UK. Another consideration is the headlights which may require changing to RHD units. Finally welcome to the UK 😀

I would imagine that our resident insurance company Adrian Flux will see this and post soon, this company and a few others, like Performance Direct specialise in imported vehicles and can generally provide a competitive quote. Also bear in mind that presently cars imported into the UK from another EU country pay no import duties or VAT. This may change after January so check or you may also be faced with a 20% VAT invoice from our government! This may help https://www.gov.uk/importing-vehicles-into-the-uk

Took mine into SGS as they are local to me, dropped them off and collected later in the week. First repair was no good they were more sloppy than when I took them in, 2nd attempt and super fixed. I can release the bonnet catch and lift the bonnet maybe 3 inches and the struts open it gently from there. Must be 2 years since they were done now and still working fine.

There are no parts prices for the rear quarter panel, door skins, light cluster and bumper on Toyodiy. Given the multi panel damage and the paint colour it going to be close between repair and write off, if the repair shop have a good traditional panel beater that would help.

I have a spare Space Saver wheel you can have for free 17”. The tyre will need replacing due to age deterioration but the rim is fine. Collection or you pay for shipping.

Hi Konnos and welcome to the LOC. You mention there is nothing in the book regarding servicing but have you asked the dealer? The reason being is that books are rarely filled in and stamped these days because the service records tend to be electronic in format. Ask the dealer if they can provide a print out for those services, if they do all is good, if not walk away.

Just checked the offside shock is showing no longer available, the near side at £139.00 plus shipping and import duty from Amayama. Headlight is showing at £996.00 plus shipping and import taxes from Amayama. Personally I would be looking at aftermarket shocks and a secondhand headlight.

Hi David, If you want OEM parts ( which the headlight will have to be to meet EU regs) then it’s either Lexus or Amayama.com For the front dampers again same as above or for aftermarket check out Rockauto.com Might be an idea to try and find a good used headlight from a breaker given the cost new.

Oops sorry, try this one.

Iridium plugs seem to go on forever without noticeable wear, so long as they are genuine they will be fine, some counterfeit ones have managed to part company with the iridium tip which has caused obvious engine damage.

The topic below is from 2015, if you look down the posts there is a link to Club Lexus which provides a comprehensive repair post. The position sensor is a common culprit for which a good clean and a dose of electrical contact cleaner can sort the problem.

Malc I’ve pinned this topic so it will remain prominent at the top of the list for easy access. You are correct in that JDM cars like mine do not have an EGR system fitted as it is not a requirement in Japan. I would just add that a power steering soaked alternator is usual a result of the rubber “O” ring failing on the reservoir, the replacement part is just a few pounds but fitting it requires removal of the pump to gain access to the reservoir fixing bolts.

With regard to the parking brake I received a verbal advisory from my usual MOT tester a few years ago as it was just above the minimum requirement. I removed the discs/drums, cleaned all the internals with brake cleaner, gave the friction surfaces of the shoes a roughing up with some abrasive paper ( taking precautions re the dust), cleaned up the drum contact area and sparingly applied a little copper grease to the pivot points. After refitting the drum I adjusted the shoes to lock up then backed off enough for the drum to turn. Pedal clicks went from around 7 to 4 for brake lock up and has remained so since. As other members have mentioned there is little wear on the shoes and mine have lasted over 26 years now with adequate friction material remaining.

I think you have met an over zealous MOT tester, brake pads, discs and pipe OK but rear subframe mountings? I have just looked at the exploded diagram and cannot find a “rear subframe” even listed. Any input from IS200 members for this part? Personally I would pay the fixed price MOT fee after repairing the brake defects and take it to a Lexus dealer. We could do with some pictures of the affected area.

I think most modern fuel injected petrol cars will adapt to the fuel being used be it 95 or 98. The engine performance is constantly monitored and fuelling adjusted not only based on the type of fuel being used but driving style and other variations. I remember in the 70s when the company Ford Escort vans were run on 2 star petrol because it was the cheapest, they used to “pink” all the time. Of course there was no such thing as Knock Sensors then just a roughly adjusted carburettor. My LS400 runs on standard unleaded OK it’s a low compression engine producing an unstressed 250 Bhp from a 4 litre V8.