steve2006

Hello Yashman and welcome to the LOC. Here is a link answering most of the maintenance questions you have, the spark plugs should have been replaced last at 120,000 miles so you still have a good life left on them if they were. Coil packs rarely fail and are not a service item. No cam belt to worry as it is chain driven however regular oil changes are essential, official is every year or 12,000 miles but many owners do every 6000. Sepentine auxiliary belt is normally every 60,000 miles.

I messaged the seller twice regarding the mileage discrepancy and ownership but have received no response. Looks like a case of buyer beware!

Sorry, did have a couple but sold them, new ones from Rockauto maybe?

Hi David and welcome to the LOC. I have a Toyota Celsior and my expertise is generally on that model but you could try disconnecting the battery for a short while in the hope that the system will then reset. Also check for any plugs or wiring that may have been disturbed when you replaced the battery and all fuses.

Do you have any fault codes? Difficult to diagnose without them...could be fuel related, misfiring spark plug or coil, engine ECU.

You speak for yourself John, here’s mine 😀

Buy one get one free from Amayama ( excluding HMRC involvement !) This is apparently another “ Out of Production” part......seemingly becoming popular even on later models.

You’re welcome, Not sure how you feel about petrol additives but maybe a dose of injector cleaner wouldn’t hurt if the car has been used for short local journeys in the past. The CTS is the usual culprit for fuelling problems when the engine is warm along with the CPS causing non starts when hot, not heard of any engine ECU problems but they are common on some older models due to capacitor failures. Update us with progress please....all information helps 😀

With the present weather I would dry the area completely then sit in the boot area with a book or iPad and some sandwiches and wait for more water to appear. Apparently a good coating of talcum powder shows up any water ingress, no doubt Lexus have some special stuff at £125.00 a sprinkle 😀

I bought some cheapies many years ago for my side lights, brighter than the old bulbs but you could see the light “streaks” from the individual LEDs. They have been flickering for a few years now as the LEDs become dry jointed ( lead free Chinese solder?) but again passed the MOT. Easy to replace so just ordered the same as you Vladimir, no Canbus problems on mine to worry about and hoping the light pattern is better and they remain flicker free however the “2 year warranty” should be fun if needed 😀 I did fit some interior lighting LEDs at the same time but the cheap design took out my £300.00 “Integration Relay” which I fortunately managed to repair myself for 50p so reverted back to filament bulbs.

I would just gently vacuum it occasionally using a soft brush to get in any crevices, certainly nothing “chemical” at this stage of its life. Lovely colour by the way.

Buenos Dias Jose y bienvenidos al LOC, I would certainly be looking at replacing the timing belt kit and water pump if there is no recorded change date at that mileage, you sound mechanically minded so the job is fairly straightforward. Two other maintenance items are the fuel filter and the VVTI micro filter which supplies oil to the camshaft timing components. Another item to check especially as the fault appears to be temperature related is the engine CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) which could be giving false readings to the engine ECU which in turn could cause running problems.

Apologies John I missed your question until now......P-R-N-D-2-1...........not been for years since so Neutral from me.

Congratulations Malc. When I bought mine back in 2006 I had a 1995 Rover 820 with a white and rust colour combination despite a good wash and wax cleaning regime. When I was considering the Celsior I thought why am I thinking of a car older than the one I have, I should be looking at a newer model but price was key at the time. I also never thought I would have the same car 14 years later .....cars are generally uneconomical to run before that age and return to their original iron oxide state. Unlike the UK Japanese cars use the manufacturing date as their “birth” date which in my case was 01/01/1994. The DVLA have the car as being “Registered” as December 1994 but it is an “L” registration ( Sept 93 to Sept 94). It’s not just Her Majesty who has two birthdays 😀

There is a new listing on fleabay which has already attracted bids to over £2305.00 with over 9 days to go. This is with no current MOT, a coolant leak and requiring “a HT lead”. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-LS-400/174492529250?hash=item28a090b262:g:fqAAAOSwHXRflHe4 Admittedly it does looks clean, genuine and with a quoted mileage of 29,000. However a quick check on its MOT history reveals a different story with mileage in 2006 showing around 65,000, 66000 in 2007 and a mere 325 in 2008. From 2008 the mileage appears consistent. Probably had the cluster replaced but obviously a lot more mileage than showing with another 65,000 to go on top. Another thing is why not get it MOTd before selling.

I had to have a new battery on my Vivaro van a couple of months ago, just died in a supermarket car park. RAC checked battery initially and said it was OK. Got van started and left running but wouldn’t restart. New battery £240.00 due to being gel type stop start....gone are the days of an £80.00 replacement.

They often get overlooked, looks like they are half the price from a Lexus dealer and guaranteed genuine!

Mine also passed with no advisories at 26 years old last week 😀

It needs to be the 3 button master key to clone from it.

No problem Rich, Pretty sure I could fit you in for a repair 😀

Linas, I would also like to read that sentencing report do you have a link? Via PM if you wish.

Have you checked the pollen filter, chances are it’s never been replaced and is totally clogged severely restricting air flow.

Hi Pierre and welcome to the LOC. There is no specific fuse for the alarm system as there are several which also supply other areas. What is the problem you are having with your car?

Hi Rob and welcome to the LOC. A typical cause for prolonged engine cranking on diesel engines is failure of one one more of the glow plugs, check for voltage presence and correct operation. Another is air entering the fuel lines due to poor, loose or deteriorated connections.

The back lighting issues on the series III (non of the buttons illuminate) are very common and generally caused by dry solder joints on a couple of surface mount resistors on the tape deck PCB. I have successfully repaired quite a few of these in the past for LOC members.