steve2006

Lots of vehicles have their 12 volt batteries in the boot area, my Mini did and it was of course in 1976 a wet battery. I remember the battery cable shorting out where it exited the boot ...now that was exciting. 😀

Hello Michael and welcome to the LOC. I don’t know if the same problems happen here in the UK but I see plenty of Eastern European registered cars around here which years later are still on their own country’s plates. Better hurry up or those Gendarmes will be after you 😀

Am I going mad here, I meant to write “compressed air” but see no edit button since the upgrade?

These are the correct part numbers but sadly delisted. Before replacing (if still available) try cleaning out the vent/housing as fluff tends to accumulate in there blocking the thermistor sensor. Compressed out normally does the job around 30PSI.

I have one for my Celsior, I think I have used it once in 17 years of ownership so the odds of needing one are low. Add into the equation that changing a wheel road side these days is risky, I certainly wouldn’t consider doing it myself on any M or A class road. They are basically a “get you somewhere safe” tyre, they are limited to 50 MPH although looking at them I wouldn’t risk more than 30 especially with 400 + BHP available and the condition of UK roads. I have offered a spare one I have for free collection many times with no takers it is 17” rim but will need the tyre replacing due to aging. I may also have a spare jack and brace which are also required.

Mains powered with a dubious looking full wave bridge rectifier ( assumed there are 4 diodes under the brown capacitors). I guessing Chinese in origin? Find a bin and then take a look at the one below which is dimmable. https://www.argos.co.uk/product/8361648?istCompanyId=a74d8886-5df9-4baa-b776-166b3bf9111c&istFeedId=30f62ea9-9626-4cac-97c8-9ff3921f8558&istItemId=ixilqqqwr&istBid=t&&cmpid=GS001&_$ja=tsid:59157|acid:898-274-0554|cid:9563031066|agid:97151857126|tid:pla-889361701882|crid:423211492683|nw:g|rnd:17458735389744960748|dvc:t|adp:|mt:|loc:9046377&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=9563031066&utm_term=8361648&utm_content=shopping&utm_custom1=97151857126&utm_custom2=898-274-0554&gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-FP8ihEd6Gg9jYalQvb0vaQYWK3j4RMTrmLBQToJfDgXQH7h1qFdWRoCFqoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but are you aware of the engine coolant/ transmission cooler problem on these cars? Basically an internal defect allows engine coolant to mix with the transmission fluid which in turns wrecks the gear box. Unfortunately post 2003 models have no dipstick as they are “Sealed for life” but check the engine coolant level to see if you are loosing coolant with no obvious leaks. My advice is to contact a transmission specialist.

I don’t think so as they tend to be low current devices, the cause of the fuse failure is the high currents involved in starting the engine and a flat battery also trying to charge at the same time.

Post up a picture of the bonnet catch you need, I think I may have one in the “Shed” The headlight side mounting often gets snapped off due to the threads rusting and shears off with a small amount of torque from a 10mm spanner, if you can drill out the remains and glue a replacement in that would sort it or look for a good replacement headlight unit (sorry “shed” is out of stock on this part)

The chances are that you have blown the 120A “Alternator Fuse” in the main engine bay fuse box. Unfortunately this is not the usual plug in type fuse but a terminal type which requires removal of the fuse box to access the screw terminals. Although the video link below is for the GS430 the principle of replacement is similar which should help. It is incorrectly titled as 120 Volt not Amp fuse.

Please don’t blame the “mods” our only job is to “police” the forums and keep the peace giving up our own time to do so. We have no input or influence on the website appearance or any changes made to it.

The actuator only operates the locks so it’s difficult to understand how the door opened by itself which is purely mechanical in operation with rods/cables connecting the interior and exterior door handles. Price is as shown for the actuator, if you have some DIY skills you can replace just the motor inside it for a few pounds or look for a breaker not delivered by Hermes.

I have a feeling that the parts are pre painted and replacement would be the only expensive option. Have you considered vinyl wrapping instead of painting?

I know from experience and having repaired many units that the earlier 94-97 LS400 suffered a similar problem with back lighting which was due to bad solder joints within the radio/tape player. The problem with the Celsior models is a lack of service manuals and being only available in Japanese meaning diagnosis is very hard. It does sound like a poor connection or dry solder joints somewhere but where do you start looking? A hair dryer and a can of freezer spray are the tools required to find intermittent thermal faults but where do you start with them. Have you tried a few gentle taps around the area to see if the lights then illuminate?

Questions are....was this happening before you changed the belt and tensioner and why did you replace the belt and tensioner initially?

In my case the bearings caused a squealing sound when the car was first started from cold. As the bearings warmed up this noise disappeared until the next cold start. Good quality Japanese replacements as mentioned by Mikael sorted the problem with little time and money.

If it was just a noisy tensioner bearing it takes 10 minutes and a few quid to replace just the bearing, same with the idler pulley. Check from above to see if the new tensioner lines up with the rest of the pulleys. The tensioner should sit midway in the adjustment range with the correct belt, I have noticed variations in belt length quoted for the same model. A standard test for correct tension is to see if you can twist the belt 90 degrees on the longest run between pulleys.

My answer would be ALL of them, check for excessive rust/ corrosion and all the rubber components for deterioration. Also check the rear wheel arches where crud collects especially where they meet the sill, if they aren’t kept clean the rot sets in and it’s a major welding job.

As you are aware the UCAs have to be replaced as a complete unit. After a pothole incident some years ago I was faced with a £521.00 OEM Lexus part or a £30.00 chinese pattern part of dubious quality. Fortunately I came across the right side OEM part on fleabay listed by Nippon Autoparts, at £150.00 I couldn’t hit that Buy it Now button quick enough! They are both available on Amayama for around £200.00 each including shipping within a week, bear in mind you will probably have to add another £40.00 on each for HMRC VAT. Given these are critical safety components I would only use OEM myself.

I seem to remember another member having the same problem some time ago, do you have glass cover on your insurance? Have you tried the 3rd party fitters like Autoglass? Other than that some careful work on a breaker. Found this, part number matches with database. https://cars245.co.uk/item/toyota-lexus-6481050270-glass-back-window/ or Amayama but bear in mind this will probably attract 20% VAT on the total cost!

I seem to remember another member having the same problem some time ago. Have you tried the 3rd party fitters like Autoglass? Other than that some careful work on a breaker.

There are multiple ECUs involved here, Lexus tend to have one for every function. It could be a poor earth connection common to them all or possibly a Canbus data glitch due to the battery going flat initially. Please update us once Lexus have taken a look.

I only sold these staggered 18s about a month ago, I was going to fit some winter tyres on them but hardly go anywhere in the car.

As above or it has been registered outside the UK until recently. Ask the dealer for service history details maybe.

Standard Lexus fit ( it is only the CT and LS600h that are different). 114.3 PCD 5 stud, centre bore 60.1 and offset 50. If you have the space it would probably be cheaper to find a standard secondhand alloy and tyre. Also bear in mind you will need the jacking kit and wheel nut brace.