steve2006

I’m not far behind you at 61........When it comes to the vaccination I think I’m Tier 12 on the list 😀

I have those in stock and also an equivalent “Automotive Grade” version to the specs mentioned previously by Colin. I can also fit them for you 😀

If you are willing to travel up to Derbyshire ( once we are out of lock down of course and preferably vaccinated) I am willing to do the work you require. Several members have done this and have been happy with the work carried out. I am not a mechanic by trade but have plenty of DIY Lexus LS400 experience. Send me a PM to discuss further if this is any use to you.

Need a few niggling things done, Passenger front door speaker, Central locking, Cd player not working, Sun roof opens on its own sometimes, Boot and bonnet struts, Drive belt tensioner speaking, Windscreen wipers rubbing. Front speaker....Door panel off and replace speaker. Central locking...just one door or all doors? CD Player.....locate and install a good secondhand unit. Sun Roof .......struggling with this one. Drive belt tensioner ....either replace complete with new OEM one or just replace the bearing. Bonnet and boot struts........ SGS Engineering, Derby.

An advantage of rear wheel drive cars .....a smaller turning circle 😀

You need to get some of those SGS bonnet struts on it, they’ll stop it sticking. 😀

It’s quite a common problem, you can replace the complete pulley or just replace the bearing in the one now fitted for a few £££s with a good quality Japanese bearing. Although for the tensioner this may help. Finally welcome to the LOC.

IIRC there was a recall for this problem and an upgraded ECU was supplied and fitted. Other items to consider are the IACV and Throttle Body cleaning.

Also check you have not accidentally disconnected any wiring plugs when replacing the thermostat.

That price matches up to those I have with the front section being nearly half the cost of the complete system.

The 3 sections add up to around £1500.00 then you also require the various gaskets and other fittings on top of that cost.

I recently had my aftermarket wheels refurbished in Anthracite and still not sure if I like them over the original mirror finished silver. Also very weary of kerbs as rash would be obvious. I did look at some of those rim protectors but again not sure if they would look naff, at around £40.00 a set they work out at half the cost of just one wheel repair.

Since I replaced my tyres to 245/45/18 -100Y Pirelli P-Zeros it sounds like a Land-rover on off road rubber, should have stuck to Rainsports.

Hello Sunil, welcome to the LOC and sorry to see the damage to your new NX. The main damage appears to be to the plastics around the rear arch, these would hopefully have absorbed most of the impact so damage beyond this to the metal structure should be minimal if any. The plastics are generally clip on or screwed. The door should knock out with a decent body shop and paint job. If you go via your insurers it shouldn’t be a write off but if that is the case you have the gap insurance, your NCB will of course suffer plus your premiums due to a claim.

Plus here’s how to strip a seat down, everyone needs a pair of hog ring pliers 😀

I’ll second...third SGS, they are local to me in Derbyshire so I took mine into them. Super job, release bonnet catch, lift bonnet a few inches then it opens by itself. They also make a good quality range of trolley jacks, axle stands and other parts at a good price.

I think this is the part you need, no price unfortunately.

Looks like there are 2 earth points from the negative battery clamp, strange coincidence if both ground points have failed but they look easy enough to trace and access. I would think the shorter one goes to the body and the longer one to the engine block....just thought the engine is sat on rubber mounts so maybe would explain no circuit if that lead is not connected correctly.

Since I bought my Celsior back in 2006 I must have replaced the battery 4 or 5 times with 2 Toyota branded and 3 aftermarket. Personally I think lack of regular use causes them to fail, once they go flat they never seem to fully recover from a charge and completely fail a short time later. For the last few years I have been using a “Smart Charger” which I regularly connect. This appears to keep the battery in good condition as the present one is now in its 4th year with a 3 year warranty.

If you fancy a “genuine” Toyota battery they come up at the price below! IIRC any Toyota part number beginning with the usual 5 numbers but then ending in 5 letters are apparently “budget” parts (oil filters are another example).

Not sure on that Phil, mine is classic.

The salvage rights with nil deduction and agreed value increase from £3000.00 last year cost me another £20.00.

Earlier today I was working in Derbyshire and on arrival at the customer’s premises noticed that there was a car which he had moved out of the garage to allow me access in there. Curious because it had a complete cover fitted all I could see was it had MG wheel caps. After a brief chat he told me if was a 1994 MGR fitted with a 3.8 litre V8, with less than 2000 made most of which were exported to Japan. Once I had completed the work he kindly removed the cover before starting it up and reversing it back into the garage. Just had a look and prices vary between £18,000 and £50,000! Never seen one in my life but very nice. Generic picture from google.

Hubby is correct....never jump start a conventional petrol or diesel car from a hybrid 12 volt battery.

Looking at the 1998 which has had “ no expense spared by its elderly owner” but has in the past failed MOTs on “Cord showing on tyre” and running advisories for lower front ball joints it does make you wonder. Just reinsured mine and again increased the “agreed value” to £6000.00 based on a similar replacement would now cost £10,000 plus to import from Japan plus I have no deduction salvage should the worst ever happen.