steve2006

Even cheaper at Amayama! PS Valve, thermostat and gasket ordered from them at just over £60.00 including expedited shipping. Even adding on another £12.00 VAT and an estimated £8.00 “ admin charge” it is still less than half the price of Lexus UK.

Having finally retired and having more time on my hands I am now getting around to those long standing niggling faults on my Celsior. One of them is the failure of the power steering idle up valve which results in a cloud of white exhaust smoke after being stood a few days and then starting the engine. I could repair the existing valve with a couple of O rings but decided to replace the valve with a genuine one. So let’s check the part number (17630-16040) and search suppliers. First supplier is our very own Lexus Parts Direct who presently have them discounted from £132.94 to £122.30 plus £5.99 shipping. Further searching found Nengun Performance who can supply the exact same part for £36.87 plus £5.22 shipping plus £3.68 optional insurance. Both suppliers must obtain the part from Toyota at a “trade” cost so I can only assume that the mark up is higher with a UK supplier. But at almost 3 times the cost plus more expensive shipping how can this be justified! OK I may have to pay import duty, VAT and “Admin charges” but even factoring this in it is still less than half the UK dealer price! Delivery is 14-21 days from Japan...this doesn’t worry me the fault has been present for a year or so. Another comparison... thermostat and O ring, LPD works out around £46.00, Nengun £15.00 plus possible charges. I appreciate all businesses have to make a profit but there is a thin line between that and extortion!

Battery side coil pack by any chance? Always the one to fail due to its position just above the exhaust manifold and of course the most difficult one to change.

Very good point John, the rear fogs generally only come on with dipped beam headlights on also.

Here is the parts list, the missing nut is circled in red.

It looks like the locking nut on the inner tie rod is also missing? This video shows the basic procedure involved, I would recommend getting hold of a ball joint splitter to separate the ball joint easier.

Hard to understand how a £500.00 part starts to come apart due to poor preparation and welding skills, it’s mild steel, the weld should if done properly be stronger than the pipe!

Hello and welcome to the LOC. Interesting work, it’s good to see that despite today’s “Throw away society” there are still some people with enough dedication and skills to actually repair units like these and others ( think broken TV for example). I too used to work in electronics at a time when repair down to component level was the norm as a replacement was very expensive but changed career when anything that broke was immediately dispatched to the nearest council tip and Argos was the next port of call. I also remember Servisol thermal paste, the stuff used to get everywhere but I would be lost now with the latest stuff and combined MOSFETs and BP transistors. In my days a Thyristor PSU was a “miracle” of the time. Keep up the good work, I can see demand increasing now that electric cars are the “future”

How did they manage that? By any chance is the place called “Kwik de Fit Fenetra” 😀

I think the GS of that era had the weird braking system instead of the conventional vacuum servo that the accumulator is part of.

The only possible place here in the UK is the Soarer Sancuary if it still exists plus a place in Oz.

They do have 6 different part numbers for RHD and LHD (there are 3 options for each, standard green tint, luxury and luxury with wiper heater). The frame should be the same for both left and right hand drive but the wipers may be positioned differently.

The control arm is shown highlighted Richard, according to the diagram there is one on each corner, find the arm and the sensor is connected to the top of it.

If it’s a similar system to those windscreen repair kits for stone chip damage I’ve heard a few horror stories because once the stuff is applied if it goes TU it cannot be removed. Pretty sure there are still specialists who can remove light scratches on glass.

Cheers guys. Decided yesterday to make a start on the near side rear having already dosed the unions several days before with WD40 following the above posts advice. No flare nut damage and using the correct special 11mm brake spanner the nut released yay! Unfortunately the nut was seized to the pipe which began to twist (copper too) so after cleaning it and more WD40 and still not moving over the pipe I tightened it back up fully and abandoned it. Being a Bank Holiday and not in procession of brake pipe, flare nuts and tooling required I didn’t fancy breaking the pipe plus I have never made a flare/ double flare? before so wouldn’t take a chance especially on such a critical system. The MOT is due in October so I will get my local garage to fit them for me then, if they break a pipe they have the parts, tools and expertise to hand. One thing I have noticed is the replacement BF Goodridge hoses don’t have the little arm on the calliper union which locks into a hole on the calliper preventing it from turning as shown below, given the price and “custom made” claims a little disappointing. I did however receive replacement banjo bolts FOC.

Got AA cover as part of Lloyd’s bank packaged account, once for a flat battery and the other for a broken rear spring both coincidentally after leaving the car at the local airport.

It has become slightly worrying lately that several members have been unable to source a replacement rear glass for the earlier LS400 models, I would hate to think mine could effectively be written off if some toe rag ever decided to put a brick through it!

Also 5 stud, PCD 114.3 and at least a 60.1 centre bore? What do you have on presently?

Hi Steven, I have replied to your question on the other thread, because it was added to an old thread it was missed I think.

Hi Steven, When this happens are there any other symptoms like loss of power or dash warning lights? Favourite is a faulty EGR valve, there are some very good video tutorials on cleaning it and replacement if needed is fairly easy to DIY with reasonable parts cost.

It could be the hybrid drive system.

Having looked at the exploded diagram there are 2 “sensors” on either side of the tailgate, not sure what they do but may be worth checking there are no obstructions around them also.

£5300.00 shipped +VAT + Tax + documentation if you fancy one Phil 😀 https://carfromjapan.com/cheap-used-toyota-windom-1993-for-sale-5f57a380ce9cfa3a9bf2f22f

Very similar in styling to my Celsior, extra wide light clusters fill in the smaller space for the squarer Japanese style number plates.

4 hours to drain the battery....you should be able to feel the heat coming off whatever is causing it 😀