ambermarine

Tinonline I have sourced what I can only find as the cheapest OEM supplier and that is JP-CARPARTS.com this is a genuine oem car parts supplier and the tie rod ends part no 43330-59045 come in at $73 each unshipped and untaxed or dutied. You will need to source the reference chain to a similar year Celsior on their site as the Lexus does not show until after 2000 which is when it was first marketed as Lexus in Japan I have an inquiry in to source a filter box sub assembly for my car which I need and they are the only company I have found who will supply that part the rest want to supply the whole unit which I don't need and that whole unit is £500 unshipped. The reason I am stating this unrelated event is to show the value in searching the world wide web constantly.

There are cheaper alternatives out there but buying from the states or Japan OEM parts will not save you much after import duties vat and shipping as the pound is weak . I agree with other members do not risk cheap parts on a serious if not the most serious part of the car. Go back to other dealers in the UK and try to get a bit off but don't bank on much as they are getting them from Japan by air freight so they are paying top dollar for shipping.

Peter Bank transfers are the most common type of bank transaction after direct debit usually used for paying for services Plumber, decorator ,etc ,the payer is the only one to get the bank details and to that end is safe from scamming ,the only danger is with this type of transaction , paying into the wrong account .

Seems to me they can make money without selling the car on ebay and the scabbier it is the more likely it will be declined so that may be a new scam that as been devised. Keep looking I bought my Mark 4 on ebay and it was as described so the there are genuine sellers.

The gas struts a on all cars eventually fail the those on my car work ok when the engine is hot and I have a adjustable aluminum boat hook which I use in the garage when fettling the servicing .

Sorry Graham but we will have to agree to disagree my LS400 Mark 1 was holding its original plate for the first 6 years of its life then for 14 years my personal plate was on it , when I sold it it reverted to its original plate. My mark 4 had its original plate up to me applying my personal plate when that plate is put on the MOT site the only history is for my plate if I put in its initial plate it comes up as unregistered.

If a vehicle is identified by current reg no on GOV MOT the only info on MOT history is for that number,the private plate on the car as obviously been added after initial registration and any entries for the initial reg will be wiped by the present reg. If the private plate is removed from the vehicle the registration reverts to initial registration and any mot info will be for that reg not for subsequent years regardless as to how many plates the vehicle as had.

The MOT history shows the vehicle as quite a bit of chassis corrosion for its mileage and as probably been in a salty atmosphere if the brake pipes on the centre section are corroded. But as posters have already stated all repairable and the bodywork is pristine. The dealer might wiggle on price but if not its still worth investing in.

Norman May be slightly too big if so go and buy a K&N filter for the cars life they are more expensive initially but you will never need buy another filter.

Yes Malcolm the wording was in the owners handbook" unless the vehicle is used as a taxi or a delivery vehicle"but try convincing the Lexus dealership of that when 60k came up,they would'nt change tack and insisted on belt replacement. And that repair of the seized water pump still cost £800 at the time.

Norman Is it a Lexus OEM or aftermarket.

Malc You are of course erring on the speculative with those analogies but the truth of the matter is that ten years is the prescribed safe change interval on a cambelt regardless of use as the rubber content perishes ,so would you spend a good lump of your money on a sought after example LS430 and then gamble on the belt failing,I don't think so I did'nt on my 19k Mark4 which had gone a further 4 years past the ten when I acquired it,and to be honest was like new when taken off. But having had one fail on my Mark 1 due to a seized water pump I do not wish that experience on anyone.

Find the reason for selling a bit flaky as it is contradicted with px for similar and as already been mentioned cambelt change due. Get the feeling thats why it is up for sale,and if the bidding goes up much further it will be expensive.

Duncan You will need a code if the unit as been set with one . The car was sold with no code set and the option was there for the owner to set one, most owners did this. It is a four digit code and is set on the graphic display through the security interface. If the unit as had a code set and you cannot source it from the previous owner there is a dance that clears the code using various on offs of the lights pressing buttons on the display at the same time all done in a set sequence.. I have this procedure on file for the Mark 4 .and I believe there is a sequence for the mark 3 but it might not be the same . Check it out on the archives both on this forum and the US owners forum.

If the tyre is nine years old it is now in the suspect zone ,tyres have a safe life of around five years and should be replaced after that as recommended by the industry , I know that is going to be seen as self gain by them as is the bed change recco every eight years by Dreams, but you are not safe in your bed driving around on iffy tyres. I have just replaced the spare on my Mark 4 which was hardly used but I suspect was the original issue ,18 years old and it looked perfect.

As a postscript there maybe barriers to galvinising the subframe on the Mark 4 as the main element is a tube, that to my knowledge is sealed the Galvaniser will not treat it unless it as been vented and it may need several holes drilling to allow the fluids to drain from the tube when taken from the tank.

Yes is the short answer most structures that are designed for the galvanising process are built with various widths and thickness,s of metal to counteract warping as the frame in question is not it may distort as the temprature can be as high as 840 f. It is not cheap either, my solution would be to epoxy paint the subframe then coat it with Dinitrol as added protection,that will see all of us out.

That is an amazing price even if the construction is not stainless at that price you could replace every four years and still be quids in on stainless from Lexus.

The tow hook would not have been fitted in the factory,They are not geared up for that . Although it was on the Lexus invoice at point of sale it would have been fitted at the dealership or farmed out to a specialist tow bar fitter. As I said at the first inquiry take it to a auto electrician.

Andy If the pump is leaking you will be able to smell the atf in addition the area around the base of the pump will be damp and there will be atf on the casing of the alternator. You may have a leak in the power steering ram which is a more expensive job . Before doing any spending get the ram and surrounding areas checked as well as the areas I mentioned earlier.

Lovely! But you could'nt leave it on a city street and expect it to stay in that condition. Few years down the road maybe.

Connor It looks like the person who put in the bright lights as used the rear indicator circuit to power them up they will have been wired in series so when you took them off line so to speak you also took out the indicators, Without knowing what he as botched you could mess a lot of things up searching for the fix . My advice is take it to an auto electrician who will sort it properly.

Is that you sat on the side of the Cuan sound Mike.

The striker plates are torqued up when fitted and an ordinary wrench will not get them loose even if you find the correct bit, the best tool is an impact gun, air preferably but care is needed as destroying the head of the bolt will bring a nightmare scenario.