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Having trouble posting the Lexusownersclub .com post for this topic. will do some more delving.

Hi Cliff Try this

Stuart Like you my memory of this exercise done fifteen years ago is sketchy I removed the gear stick panel so I could remove the ashtray which gives access to the bolts that hold the radio and a/c console,I had no reason to lift off the gear stick cover, so have no idea as to how.

The walnut panel is taken out by levering up after taking out the ashtray surround by levering out with a thin screwdriver covered in tape or one of the plastic tools.

They have updated the bulb type according to this valuable post from Andy it shows the importance of the correct bulb fitment before ordering as I don't think mine were cheap and that's 15 years ago

Hi Phil I had to replace the light bulbs in my A/C display on my Mark 1 400 and the bulb and green shroud came as a package. I do not know weather they have changed the bulb base on the 430 but from that video the principle is similar,if you determine the bulb type by extraction and compare it with the type in the pics you should be able to order by part number from Lexus. Some bulbs that are used in switches are of different voltage and amperage so it is important to get the correct bulb.

Peter Firstly let me add to the good wishes you have received for your Wife and her recovery,I to spent many happy years in the south west Florida region around the Fort Myers area fishing and boating. Later this summer we are embarking on a epic month long tour of the National Parks bespoke driving organised by a renowned vacation planner,usual Yellowstone, Yosemite,and eight others over six states.Will be driving a ford edge which I have used before in the US not as nice as a 400 but still pretty good. With regard to the steering wheel ,yes I agree with your sentiments fortunately mine is still mint but that is useful info.

There is a site online that sells virtually every tyre mentioned in this post subject including Falken that fit the 400. https://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/car-tyres-225-60-16.html?partnerDomain=adwords.google.co.uk_tyres_225_60_16&gclid=Cj0KCQjws5HlBRDIARIsAOomqA2WMGI6zWGualLMpOLZ7E7YNgLllSjZ_3O4PfnOLdBQLLvl0u1uM9IaAhBREALw_wcB&xtor=SEC-24-GOO-[tyres_Tailles]--S-[tyre+225+60+16]&xts=223987#js-pag

Hi John I used Falkens for ten years and had good service from them ,but as you say difficult to find .That was the reason I moved to Bridgestone Turanza ER300 ,they have proved exceptional in all respects I got mine online and they came direct from Germany at no extra cost.

The tank sits behind the rear seat in a upright position .the removal of the fabric panels in the boot gives access to the tank and filler pipe which can be removed for inspection . Before you go down this road try another filler cap.

That is a sign of the pressure release valve in the filler neck being blocked or stuck there is always a release of pressure when the tank is getting empty as the gases are more able to form in the tank .That pressure can also form as unused petrol is recirculated from the injection system . There is a pressure release valve in the tank preset to release excess ,that is faulty if your neck is expanding to the extent you suggest. The cap itself may be faulty and trying a different cap may solve the problem.

Jay Having followed this post from your original inquiry and seen the replies from our best and most learned members it seems your required answer is not on this club forum. The lead info you gave and took exception to a question on its origin is obviously from a specialist engine tuning site and would have little or no cross information with Lexus specifications at origin . Lexus only publish authentic information relevant to their specifications and not for third party applications that can be applied to their engines. There is a engine tuning site Lextreme that covers the subject you seem to be searching information on .

Further to my last update in late 2018 I am now posting a new update of today with regard to the condition of the flanges. The surrounding paint as flaked off but the flanges have suffered no paint loss and more important they show no signs of corrosion this experiment as proved a 100% success and I can now recommend it to all owners who will be suffering from this issue .

Hugh The first series LS400 had non interference engines the mark 1 My cambelt failed due to a seized water pump but The engine was ok . I would be wary of buying anything other than a Mark 4 as they were the best of the lot and even those are now twenty years old.

Alan The Lexus dealership parts guys are under instruction not to let out information that precludes them from a sale and if you are asking for part numbers that to them is a red flag.

Jon When and if you ever find another 430 with 60k on the clock it won't be when you need to shift your present car.

I did learn lessons from the Mark 1 in corrosion prevention terms I carried out on my Mark 4 which had been kept mint by the one previous owner .I waxed the whole underside metal exposed and anywhere in the wheel arches that could be accessed. Due to the light use and full time garaging coupled with the low mileage 19k it was opportune timing and it as paid off after 6 years and a further 20k miles there is no corrosion on this car and it is now twenty years old.I might add that the condition of the metalwork is also due to the improvements in paint and the steel used on later models in the ls400. Thats why it is as good as it is 17 years of development and improvement, on one model is probably a world first,unlikely to be repeated.

Hi Alex I owned one for 18 years which was 23 years old when I let it go it lasted another year and was scrapped mainly due to rust,unfortunately the mark 1 suffered badly from rust both in the rear subframe and the rear wings and wheel arches usually from the inside out which by the time it had come through the result was failed mot. I should think there are still examples about and they are the original classic Lexus so I suspect collectors items.

403 forbidden ?

OK Gregory you are as we are a bit confused and to be honest it is not really a big problem to sort out . If you have put the shocks on the car as per the designation on the stickers it is likely that all that is required is correct adjustment . Follow the adjustment procedure posted by Lee and forget anything that as been said up to this point. Let us know the results when you have carried out the instructions.

Short shocks to the rear. but as Gregory says they are adjustable so the same principles apply the shocks are not identical units it is how they are adjusted that determines the ride height.

Looks like the front shocks are the longer ones approx eight coils to the springs . short shocks to the rear, they carry less weight and do not suffer as much dynamic loading so the spring is not as much preloaded as the front. Have you checked as to weather any other parts such as bushings or spacers are also required to fit these replacements

The concept is superb and the results are fantastic but the components are the killer issue as they can only be made from ferrous metals which by definition are heavy and subject to corrosion ,lots of barriers there.

Looks well cared for but a little bit top book on price despite the mileage go for 1500 but don't lose it for the difference use the cambelt as bargaining chip if no proof of renewal,bearing in mind it will need changing if the car as done ten years since last change.