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At least you have a choice. Right now we have none. 🙁

I would prefer neither...!

Well my new RX450h+ Takumi has been picked up and is now sat on my driveway looking splendid (I think) in Sonic Copper. Too many bongs on the drive back, but at least you can set the "You've exceeded the speed limit" one to add 4 mph. The can't see driver one is annoying, but I'm hoping a bit of playing will make that less of a nuisance...

+1 I find the track pad fine. And like the fabric seats too. I use the Concierge feature which sorts out the heated seats and steering wheel for me. Luxury!

I have nothing against him personally,😱🙂. But his "style" or lack thereof is entirely due to him being incapable/unwilling to talk at all without notes or a teleprompter which is why he sounds like the speaking clock. Compare that to Nigel Farage. 🙂. Who might you prefer on the International stage?

Having owned both I can say that the Toyota C-HR is nowhere near as refined as the UX but both share the small boot space issue. The older C-HR is particularly dingy in the rear seat compartment. I have the UX version with the track pad and it really isn't that bad. Mostly I use Android Auto with a wireless dongle and just ask Google to do stuff. There must be lots of low mileage UX out there around your budget as they appear to fit a 'certain' age group who appear to drive fewer miles. Mine has the various safety 'extras' like cross-traffic warnings etc. and I recommend one with that as all-round view is somewhat restricted I find. Heated seats are great especially if you have leather/pleather like mine. I would advise you get a fabric finished vehicle though otherwise your a**e freezes or roasts depending on the season!

whenever Sir Keir appers on tv for whatever reason and programme, news reporting or interview whatever, I just need to turnover channels I'm afraid I find his persona and speech style leaves me with a " dead " feeling that Sir K is most unstatesmanlike in his manner and very non-Prime Ministerial and doing a disservice to our Nation and People I have nothing against him personally, I don't know the guy BUT he's just not, to my mind Prime Minister material and Great Britain should have somebody with more credence and presence .. whatever the political spectrum Malc 552,732 Signatures now AGE UK Petition WINTER FUEL PAYMENT

A brand new UX 300h in the base Urban trim starts at £34,895. So you may need to consider a used car rather than new with your budget. Before the latest refresh a few months ago, it was badged the 250h which had the previous generation of engine and battery pack. Also the trim levels were named a bit differently back then as well. Whereas now there are 8 trim levels, previously there were much less. But the older trims had option packs that you could buy that are not available now. For example you could buy a 250h F Sport and then add on a Takumi pack to get the features of the Takumi trim. To get the same now, you would just opt for the 300h F Sport Takumi trim. It's also worth bearing in mind that the UX has undergone two mid-life refreshes in the past year or so. So you will see older 250h's with the old infotainment system with the track-pad (which people didn't like), but that was refreshed late 2023 ish (and possibly referred to as the 2024 model year) and was replaced with a newer touch screen version that you see today. And then in about May / June of this year it was refreshed again with a new engine, battery pack and additional sound deadening materials, and badged the 300h and this is referred to as the 2025 model year. The boot is on the smaller side. However, has lots of hidden storage. So to the far left and right are little lidded cubbies to stash things. In the middle is a hidden compartment which is quite big. And underneath that is another hidden space with lots of cubbies there. There is no spare tire as all UX's get run flat tires, which makes space for these areas in the front wheel drive models. I believe the all wheel drive versions have less hidden space. And the parcel shelf is a fold-away fabric shelf. More for privacy as it is too flimsy to put anything on it other than a very light weight jacket. I have only just ordered a UX for the first time. But if you are looking for a used UX, I think Premium plus might have been a mid-level trim, and Premium the base trim (well in the UK). The trim names can vary from country to country.

WhatsApp Video 2024-10-04 at 12.43.47.mp4

Don't know where you get them from kev but they are marvellous! 😅

Maybe it only applies to the Mk4 wheels.

https://media.lexus.co.uk/lexus-announces-prices-for-the-new-rz-300e-all-electric-suv/ Also now on Lexus UK website and configurator: https://www.lexus.co.uk/new-cars/rz/build

Looks good and whatever faults showed up were obviously addressed to pass the m.o.t. most advisories were tyres and brakes so only ordinary consumable items. Only 2 fails in 20 years so a pass rate of 90%. Can't think why the steering wheel isn't wood unless it was badly cracked so removed and replaced with leather. Looks good to me. 👍

I think I would pay the extra for that £350 one. Looks like it's probably better quality and it ought to fit better too since the 3 pieces will offer a bigger range of adjustment. I'm pretty sure the cheaper one posted earlier has really small tailpipes, which make the cutouts in the bumper look cavernous. I seen an IS250 the other day with what looked like one of these £250 exhausts, and it frankly, looked stupid, and cheapened the appearance of the car.

Keys to “ Emergency Ward 10 “ await young man Malc

@AkioT The LBX does have the feature according to the manual, but it has to be first enabled by a dealer (also stated in the manual) Like you, it was the first thing I turned off when I got my NX

I'm somewhat amazed. Every car I've worked on steering wise has had replaceable inner track rods, usually known as Ball Joints. But the GS workshop manual says to replace the rack if there's a problem with them. The joints wear - but what really wears them is turning the steering wheel with the car stationary. It puts enormous stress on the joints so don't do it. The car just needs to be creeping forward or back as you turn the wheel to dramatically decrease the stress on the joints. You didn't do it when you had no power steering - ah - that's probably not most of you! 😐

Lexus dealers will generally charge a bit more than the used examples at non-franchised showrooms. Paying that bit extra is in my opinion worth it as there is an element of peace of mind.

I got my wallbox (Alfen) fitted over two years ago by British Gas via Lexus. They may need to survey your property which in my case took about 3 hours as there was quite a bit of paperwork that they complete. Needed to know location of consumer unit, main switch, how many ceiling lights in the property, number of freezers, washing machines, tumble driers, power showers, check bonding of gas pipe etc. I also had to get the main fuse uprated by the network provider who also has to ascertain the available power in the vicinity. Actual fitting was swift (mine is fitted in the garage) - all completed in a morning.

He’s meant to be the informed and empathetic Leader of our Great Britain with knowledge, panache and “ style “ Embracing of the thoughts and needs of us ALL irrespective of who we are or might become He instils in me absolutely ZERO confidence I’m sad to say The only “ style “ he has is with the donated clothing largesse and that avaricity is so so wrong in all regards Our Nation is bereft of the “ right” person for the job of PM Its so sad for us all Malc

You certainly the first person to have achieved that... may be "luck" as you say. Just please clarify, you said "secondary timing chain snap" - what do you mean? So it isn't your main chain that snapped, but the small chains that only drive VVTi (intake and exhaust valves)? i.e. as highlighted below? Your engine is absolutelly, 100% not worth fixing (I must say - my biased opinion here). Not only it is uneconomical time wise, it is uneconomical literally. Let's think about just money, forget the time it will take. You need new chain, new tensioners, all new seals, new secondary chains... not 2 new cam followers - all new cam followers (24 of them!). Are you imagining you replace 2 cam followers when the rest of them already has worn over the time and be done with it? Why would you invest in repairing the engine when you can't trust the rest of the cam gear? What about the rest of the engine? It needs full rebuilt isn't it? Chain snapped, then there will be debris in... everywhere... also it is not like something soft like sealant or bearing material, it is hardened steel, chains are hardened steel. So you need to split bottom end as well, inspect all the bearings, crankshaft and realistically when you there - replace all the bearings. Slip all engine apart and clean every single oil passage. Only the gasket kit is £344 + VAT + delivery... and you will need it for sure. I just put absolute bare minimum basics here and you are close to £1000 just in parts to rebuild it. But how can you trust VVTi adjustors, camshafts etc. You need to inspect crankshaft also, you need to inspect piston pins for blockage... Like really, where do you realistically stop inspecting the engine? It was compromised by "foreign material" of hardened steel variety (actually it is kind of "native" just doesn't belong in oil), everything needs to be disassembled down to bare block, cleaned, inspected and reassembled. Even if you just do bare minimum and replace just the parts that broke, it still going to be something like £500 with labour... and what for? So that your bearings go in a 1000 miles, because either oil passage is blocked or there are contaminants on the bearing surface? I mean sure, it is my assessment (and I have conflict of interest because I have engine to sell, so I am transparent with my bias here) but this sort of thing is considered "catastrophic" for the engine. If this would be some sort of rare, expensive or unique engine... like 2UR (form IS-F), then sure, it may be worth the effort to rebuild, but 4GR?! Just for reference - mine would be £400 if you pick-up, or whatever extra it comes to deliver if you want it delivered and I can warranty it for a year, I know it came out of running car. By any means get second opinion, but I can't imagine any engine builder advising you to replace only few parts and giving any sorts of warranty for you.

I got my mild steel back boxes from these guys https://www.gtexhausts.co.uk/ Better quality than OE and weigh less. Has a slight deep throated note and cost under £300, fitting was another £189.

Clearly a nark. Understanding this would serve him well in future. 👍

Do you mean an ACTUAL timing chain snapped? Or do you mean accessory belt snapped? Because I have NEVER heard of chains snapping on these engines and frankly I don't believe it is possible (until I see one myself)... unless the engine already been catastrophically destroyed and chain snapped after rod exited the side of the engine. If later, then it is not an issue at all, it only drives accessories, water pump, A/C and alternator... it could snap because maybe one of them or tensioner locked-up. It is not ideal of course and the actual cause has to be determined (those belts can easily last 100k miles, so not exactly common to snap for them either)... and it is important to make sure engine was not overheated as result. Overheated 4GR-FSE (the engine in your car) are junk, they warp heads, blow head gaskets and generally are not repairable. General rule of thumb - Toyota engines that have chain are interference engines, most of engines of VVTi (all?) are interference engines. I can't find reliable information of whenever 4GR is interference or not, but 2GR is and generally speaking most likely 4GR is interference engine. BUT that is moot point - your engine has to be messed-up in some fundamental way for it to snap the chain and it doesn't really matter whenever it is interference or not, after snapping chain it would be full of junk and not salvageable anyway. There are no circumstances where chain snaps and engine survives, although as I said you probably would be first person in the world to snap chain on 4GR so I assume you just snapped the accessory belt. Now if you happened to need a new engine (which you 100% will need if you snapped the chain), then I can let you have one for cheap. Even just assuming it just needs chain replaced and there is certainly no other damage to the engine... it would still be cheaper to replace the whole engine, than to replace the chain.

I'm 99.9% sure it is an interference engine.

I'd suggest get the MOT done first and hence get a second opinion and should also be covered by the Relax warranty if that is in place.

Check the rear brake discs for corrosion which is a sign the rear callipers are sticking due to lack of use you get with a hybrid and regen braking. Nothing else really with regards to the car itself. It is likely to be vulnerable to theft through a CAN bus attack so make sure the Lexus dealer fits a tracker and geo-fence device. Check insurance quotes. It is going to feel very slow compared to a Supra TT. Those alloys look good. Is that a JDM Supra with a euro spec bonnet scope, or a UK vehicle with the headlight washers deleted?

The one you linked is not great, pipes are thin and crushed, the Y-joint looks shaite, probably massive restriction and water catch... meaning it will rust there. Now original exhaust is not amazing either, but there is minimal level of quality that seems to last over 10 years... the one you copied probably will be gone in 3 years. I think Tony Banks does decent job on aftermarket exhaust, the problem is that you need to go to them in Leeds, despite them selling the exhaust on ebay - basically, they advertise on ebay, actually requires you to go in person and they custom make it in a day. But the quality exceeds that of factory and you can also go for SS as an option.

Okay just to put this to bed, putting your model code into Google it took me that parts site in Japan, this exploded view shows no part number for the rack end . So as Colin says it’s only available as a rack ! Couple of options ….get rack rebuilt, get a used rack ..or one that has a chance take it to Lexus for its mot, they understand these car more and may feel the play in the rack in acceptable.

previous car steve supra TT,had it 20 years ,gs 300 sport aloys finished it off

Hi I use the Milenco and it's not fiddly at all. You can fit and remove it in seconds and like Ronnie says, it fits upright on wheel perfectly. It feels very strong as well.

I have on order an NX450h+ from Lexus Ipswich but not been advised of any delays, regarding getting the Lexus home charger I have paid the deposit and awaiting a video talk with engineer in November, the dealer merely needs to send you an email with a link and included code to get the deal it’s as simple as that. Robin

I have done this. Not to replace the clock but the ac vent as mine had broken fins. But i had to pull out the clock to fit it to the new vent. It requires you to dismantle the entire centre console. Look for videos on installing car play etc. That should help you remove the radio and ac units. Then you need to undo 4 screws on the underside of the ac vents and pull it out. But before you pull it out you need to also loosen the panel with the hood above the instrument cluster and starter button cover as the ac vent is sort of hooked on to it. Here is some more info on what i mean https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/753393-anyone-install-carbon-fiber-wrap-for-their-interior-6.html

Are you 100% sure that you need both ball joints and inner tie rod?, my 2014 with 240000mls didn't need any steering joints replaced and it's a taxi that has passed its tests every year

Looks like classic timezone bug. the phone and Apple Maps work correctly hence the larger screen (which mirrors phone screen) is correct. But the navigation data is sent to the car in GMT which the car, being Lexus software (and we know the quality of it) forgets to convert to current timezone (BST). it will start working correctly on October 27th 😀

You can't have one side, because it is Y-section in the rear. So it will always be 2 sides. I have like 3 sets of them, but I am not sure if any of them would be much better than yours... except the one that is still on my daily... Unless... maybe you can cut-it up and use to patch yours. That said - welding is solution, just a temporary one. Depending on how bad it is... it may last a year, but if it is very thing then after few months it will rust right next to the weld.

The part isn't available on its own - assuming it even comes apart without damaging the rack assembly. What is wrong with your one? If it hasn't been damaged by misuse (i.e. not from accident damage) then the Lexus Relax warranty should cover the replacement. Otherwise you would be advised to find a replacement from a breakers or look to an engineering company to strip it down and repair.

They've ordered both..to be on the safe side. Whether they'll fit both to my car is another question....

When checking out suppliers, it is worth checking NextBase's own website (as linked by Len) as they often have special offers. I got the top end 622GW front and rear with high speed SD card for about the same price Lexus were charging for a fitted mid-range dashcam. Of course, I had to fit it myself but you already have the wiring by the looks of it.

You know I am still waiting for someone to explain to me why the UK who contributes approx 1% of global emissions thinks it is a great idea to be leader of the pack on this 'treasure hunt'. Colour me statistically challenged if you will ,but it appears clear to me we are to all intents and purposes irrelevant on this issue. I am as ever open minded to a good argument to the contrary, but I am still waiting to hear it.

The speed reading doesn't come from the gearbox on the ISF. It takes it from the abs rings on each wheel

Always difficult to predict the future but I can say that I bought an IS 300h in 2016 - it was a two year old (2014 reg) with 40k miles on it. I still have it (so it's nearly 10 years old now) and it's done 152k miles. Regular maintenance by Lexus and nothing serious has gone wrong - only the front wheel bearings at 80k miles and one rear caliper at 150k miles. Nothing else other than maintenence so very cheap motoring. Car still drives like new. I was looking to change it earlier but Lexus stopped selling the IS in the UK (and Europe) late 2019 / early 2020 (and so why there are no IS cars after this on the market). I couldn't find anything else I liked in the Lexus stable so have kept running it. BTW the hybrid battery can be kept in warranty until the car is 15 years old with unlimited mileage. I came from a string of BMWs (3 and 5 series) and the IS is a different car but I certainly don't regret the decision - as per how long I have kept the car already. It's a great long distance touring car - no matter how long the drive I always arrive feeling refreshed. On depreciation, I paid around £17k for the car in 2016 (2 years old and 40k miles) and you can see what cars are worth today - so depreciation has been minimal. Also as Linas says mine is £10 (soon to be £20) VED per year as its pre 2017 - which adds up to quite a bit over the time I've had it compared with a post 2017 car.

Assuming the ISF has air suspension, try putting it in full-floppy with the engine and gearbox in max-attack, then get on and off the throttle in a tunnel in 2nd. It's hilarious just how high the nose will go. I definitely didn't do that in the Dartford tunnel in my LS460 the other week, it's all lies if anyone claims otherwise.

Very interesting. I work for an MSP and my official title is Technical Consultant. However if I were to put myself down as a Systems Manager, because that's effectively what I do for most of my clients, it would "save" me £220/year!

Hi Mike, First of all, welcome to the LOC. Funnily enough, I have just recently done exactly the same as you on my NX350h, i.e. order a set of mud flaps from Lexus Parts Direct and fit them myself. If I recall correctly the fixings that you have in your first photo were also included in the set I received however I didn't find a need (or actually anywhere on the bumper) to fit them. I admit that fitting the mud flaps was quite a fiddly job but I got there in the end. Here are the instructions that I followed as I went along:- Fronts:- (Parts required each side:- 1 clip & 2 screws) Turn wheel to gain access Remove pre-installed push-pin with blade of a screwdriver Repeat for pre-installed push-pin at the bottom Look for dimple (above the push-pin) Slide clip over the dimple Line up mudguard and secure in place with push-pin Screw in screws above and below the push-pin (bottom one should have the thread already there) Insert push-pin at the bottom Rears:- (Parts required each side:- 3 clips & 3 screws) Slide clips over the 3 dimples Remove pre-installed push-pin at the bottom Line up mudguard and secure with the push-pin at the bottom Screw in the 3 screws (going from top to bottom) The rears were slightly more tricky as you can't obviously turn the wheels to gain the necessary access to screw in the screws so rather than be forced to remove the wheels I purchased the following, cheap, small ratchet from Amazon which did the trick:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B4N2LVLH I also followed a YouTube video that showed how to fit them on a Gen 2 NX:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1o8ATwuxt0 I hope this helps.

Profile not syncing has been the bane of my life and continues to be so. If anyone knows how to fix this permanently please let me know. Regarding problems with the uppercase key have you checked the temporary screen protector has been removed?

Hi all, playing about with all the settings today on my UX Takumi, came across the tyre pressure monitor readings, all read 2.7 Bar apart from one one which was 2.6. Then decided to check what they were supposed to be, plate inside the door frame said 2.3 Bar. Double checking in manual (not an easy thing, the 'contents' section is far from comprehensive) it too said 2.3 Bar, my tyres are the 18" run flat ones. Now all this doesn't actually surprise me, my previous car, a Kia Niro, always had its tyres inflated well over the official pressure, why do this, it's as if they just have a 'err on the high' side default figure rather than looking up all the combination of models and tyre options. I will give it a try on 2.3 Bar to see what it does to the ride when Iv'e got time to faff about with resetting the monitors, not a simple just press a button job reading the manual. Anyone else found this issue of dealer set pressures. I also noticed that just one set of pressures were quoted, my previous cars gave different figures for different loads. Bill D.

Most manufacturers use higher pressures if transporting via a RoRo as vehicles are lashed down via the wheels and therefore the tyres have additional load on them. Even if pressures were set at normal recommended levels, temperature differences between countries or just the time lapse between manufacture and delivery would mean the pressures were unlikely to be suitable, hence why they should be corrected during PDI. If you are receiving vehicles with incorrect pressures then someone isn’t doing their job correctly or are using miscalibrated equipment.