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Hello Yesterday my car was stuck in P mode and I could not get it into Drive. To make things worse, this happened at the petrol station, blocking a lane up. Firstly, I removed the physical key from the fob and used it to pull open a plastic tab next to the automatic selection stick. This exposed a switch which you can push in with the physical key in your fob, to override and unlock the automatic selection stick. At least I could then move off. Worried I had a more serious problem, I had a look around. I realised my other half had caught her feet by the fuses in the passenger footwell. Because I have used Fusetaps in installing my dashcam, the cover for the fuses is not able to be re-fitted. Her foot had pulled out the fuse I had tapped into, taking out not only the dashcam but also the IGI NO.1 fuse. Evident by it dangling down. If I had not seen that dangling cable, I’d have never have resolved it so quickly. If the fuse ever blows, you’ll be in my same position. So if you ever get stuck in P, the above will help you unlock it, and will be the first step to diagnosis: has the IGI NO.1 fuse blown? Hopefully you don’t all get stuck like me.

Something that no one has mentioned is, what about when it's away from your home address? You can invest in any amount of lockable parking posts and/or other stuff to keep it safe at home but if it ever has to stay away somewhere overnight..... Life is not a rehersal. You get one chance and that's it, so if you want a Lexus go and get one and stop being so paranoid. Enjoy your money while you've got it and can spend it. In a couple of months my wife and I will be doing a road trip to Eastern Europe, something we've been doing annually for our holidays since 1991. We never have any specific destination in mind but we'll be driving and touring around Czechia, Slovakia and Poland. Some hotels will have their own car parks, some won't, and my pride and joy will just have to take its chances being parked on the road. Will I worry or fret about the possibility of it being stolen? Absolutely not.

June stats EV 51 EV with ac not listed with this charge. not convinced I get this on a long run but will check mileage against EV use.

If you buy one of these we will need to re-title the thread from End of a dream to Beginning of a nightmare.😨

May be obvious question, but have you checked you are on adaptive cruise control mode (right hand button), then set the speed with the left hand button? Both on right hand side steering wheel buttons.

Herbie, can I enjoy and spend your money whilst you've still got it? 🤭

Think just a flat head to pop the centres out to remove the clips.

Milenco here too!

My LC is on a modern classics policy with Classicline. Mandatory Tracker, it was a hefty 900 last year, renewal was 960-odd, and I’ve now got it below 800 by reducing the market value from 87k to 80k (it’s probably 70-80k based on autotrader ‘21 convertibles) and agreed mileage from 5k to 3K. Regardless, Lexus need to get their solution sorted out sharpish, and then publicise the hell out of it so thieves know their chances of hacking a car’s systems are reducing day by day.

Rare to see one with the optional Lancer! 🤩

We're so poor up here car thieves crowdfund our road tax.

Many congrats on having the strength of character and perseverance to achieve this very positive Outcome Well Done …….. and in the process saved yourself the best part of $ 600 + Well Done 👍 Malc

Just bought and installed one of these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005519994224.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef180289lhLz Ordered the higher RAM/CPU spec for £218. Arrived in 6 days from China. Looked a bit bewildering at first, but they sent me installation info and the wiring was pretty much plug and play. What was important for me was keeping the reverse camera in the top screen, and steering wheel controls working. I could configure the steering wheel controls to do what I want in the interface, so I now have a mute button on the steering wheel too which I hated not having before! (I used the 'speech' button). Here it is in action with Android Auto. There are a lot of apps/features without connecting your phone, they work fine too. In this image the top looks to be protruding a little, the clips are not all in place yet at the top, I think need a slight bend to make stay home, looks easy enough to sort. It really works well and doesn't look/feel too large. The interface is fast and the touch screen swipes quickly. Wireless Android Auto works fine (but they also supplied a USB connection/cable for wired which easily connects and comes through into the glove box). Will take some more photos later. .

59k miles. 2017 Sport + ML, etc Full Lexus service history (last serviced 7th June 2024). Had new front discs and new pads all round last year, so needs nothing. PM me if interested.

So I've been getting a weird noise for a week now when I turn the car, more specifically when turning right, anyway thought I would clean out the hybrid battery cover tray as I haven't done it for a while and last time I didn't remove the cover, just kept tapping on it. This time I decided to partially remove the cover and WOW!!! Amongst the stones and gravel was glass shards and what looked like Himalayan salt fragments! Not gone for a drive l yet. It hoping it was all the stones causing the noise. Process of elimination. The kind of noise ice been getting sounds like a plastic water bottle being crushed.

Flat head to pop the retainer which connects to bumper. Followed by 10mm and 12mm ratchet. I only removed the retainers and middle 3 bolts that gave me enough access.

Would have to be a big hole sadly but a good idea. Considering a 3D printed cover but not got to that.

Yea, there are good ones out there, just takes time. Considering there are only a few hundred in the UK there isn’t much choice at times. I know when I was looking there was only one in the country to my spec. I’m mentally 7 so ended up with a colour I wasn’t looking for but in the end I’m pleased. Sometimes you just need to take a punt!!

+1 for Yuasa batteries.

Does non adaptive cruise control work? The front sensor could be dirty / covered in bugs etc, but I would expect there to be a warning message.

See - now you've sent me into a tailspin 😁

Running 3 V8's is even better if you're still paying for one of them .😁

I am in a similar boat. Running two cars can be puzzling when you balance out fun vs cost vs other cars out there to try.

Hi Andy. I've always run the LC as a second car. I have an M240i as my daily (which is bag of fun with the B58). I fancy having just one car as I'm starting to question 2 x insurance, MOT, servicing.... running costs V the enjoyment of owning two cars. I also think that life is too short and staying with the LC long term...... may not be the right thing to do. Trust me, selling it will be a big decision. So, if I go ahead, I'll sell both and look at something like an M2... or similar.

Hi Nean. I've had the LC for.... two years. Not sure how long I had the RC-F for... a little less I think. Comparison..... so many differences. Here's a brain dump - LC + side - Looks and attention (if you like that sort of thing) Exhaust - crisp and exotic sounding (no drone) Induction and downshifts - amazing Handling - being 4 wheel steer, better turn in In summary, I think the LC is more of a special occasion car i.e. it feels special when you get in it. Also, I'd argue that it's more fun to drive... more sporty feeling that an RC-F. LC Negs Brakes (front) are expensive - but mine have been done The attention it gets (if that's not your thing)

Good basic advice this. The very best examples - correctly fitted - will usually require the use of some serious, heavy duty, dangerous and noisy cutting equipment for several minutes to effect their removal. The latest Diskloks are possibly the best, but a bit bulky to store from my experience of a couple of early examples. I now have a Milenco which has fared equally as well in various tests - with the added benefit of being quite an effective defence in its own right!

Is it possible to make a hole on the original fuse cover to allow the wires to pass but still close it? If so that may be something to consider.

Buy a Chevy Aveo instead super car that no one’s wanting to pinch Malc

Well Said..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for sharing I followed your dashcam install guide previously & used the IG1 fuse tap. Now I'm thinking is it worth picking out a different fuse thats not critical? Thankfully it happened at standstill it may have been a different result had it been on a motorway/rolling, loosing power doesn't sound fun no steering or engine power. Alternatively cable tie around the fuse tap around the fuse box (if possible) or perhaps duct tape to avoid accidentally pulling out the fuse again just to secure it.

This should help you with removing the door card. It's not too difficult really. I think I would try a good wire brushing of the powdery surface followed by a careful application of etching primer from a rattle can and then a top coat to lock it in

With any car sold in reasonable numbers all you need is something that'll make your car a more difficult target than other similar cars. I think a steering wheel lock fits the bill as it's a cheap, visible and effective deterrent. I've also got front and rear dashcams which could act as a deterrent because a Canbus attack might cause the parking mode to start recording.

You’re not at gunpoint, go and buy something else but if you think your paranoia is going to spread to owners with a normal approach to life, think again. You’ve started a new post just to say you’re not going to buy one, what reaction were you expecting, we all rush to we buy any car based on the strength of your post. Your long drawn out account of why you won’t buy one raises zero concern for you or me. Is that sensible and constructive enough for you?

Given your auto shut off facility, then I would agree with you, but in practice I have been turning off my "standard" key since I bought the car some 3 years ago. However, I still put it in a Faraday pouch as a reminder I have switched the fob off. Basically, if it's in the pouch and I cannot see it then I have physically turned the fob off, but if it is visible then it's almost certain I didn't deactivate it. Very much a case of out of sight, out of mind. As for auto shut off, then what a fantastic and simple idea which I wish I had. Perhaps Lexus should re-program our keys as a matter of course, assuming this could be possible.

I finally got round to replacing my pollen filter/cabin filter and captured the process in a video, hopefully it will help someone who wants to give this a go themselves, I would certainly recommend giving it a go. Once you know how, you can repeat the process the following year in about 5 minutes:

I had a CT and fitted a cat cover & steering lock, but if it was going to be nicked or cat removed there's nothing else I could've done. Same as anything really, if theives want it, they'll get it. Don't hold back on might be's or just in case's, otherwise your hard earned will be too late to enjoy. I now have a UX, & more than happy.

That is a classy colour.

That's great news. I am pleased for you. You will enjoy yourself when you get back behind the wheel regularly.

Good to hear of the Salvation and Well Done 👏….. can you breakdown the £1600 spent for us/me ? It’s good to understand how these ladies costs arise thanks. Malc

The negative (-ve) battery post is connected directly to the car body, which means that the whole of the body, ie, panels; screws; nuts; bolts; brackets, etc., at the front, back, top or bottom of the car - as long as they are clean unpainted metal (paint acts as an insulator so you don't want that) - can be considered to be the -ve battery post and any of them will serve the purpose. The only reason why they discourage connection directly to the actual battery post itself is that the battery could give off hydrogen gas and there could be a risk of explosion. Having said that, after more than 40 years of hobby-spannering, neither myself nor anyone I know has ever heard of an explosion actually happening. The main thing to remember is - from an electrical point of view it matters not one iota where you connect the -ve lead to the car and I tell you this as a time-served, fully qualified electrician. When the factory closed down I became a telephone engineer on Post Office Telephones for the majority of my working life. Later on, after a back injury, I became a computer technician and hobby-wise I'm also a licenced radio ham. I'm not trying to be obnoxious, big-headed, or blowing my own trumpet; rather just saying that I've been in the electrical and electronics fields for 50 years and I do have a bit of knowledge on the subject.

Hi again Malc and all you other LS enthusiasts who gave me such brilliant advice on this thread. Good news - The Duchess has been fixed, passed her MOT and is parked outside on my drive! She was repatriated back onto English soil in April. We stole across the Welsh border on a dark, moonless night (not really, it was a damp & dreary Saturday afternoon) 😂 and sixteen hundred quid later, she’s good to go. Next up is a visit to Wheel Gods in Bolton for the alloys tidying up, and we are back in business. My guy Dan actually found, made up and fitted a new original set of number plates without me even asking and I have to say they make a huge difference to the appearance. I collected her and brought her home on Friday, and as always, she put a HUGE smile on my face! She’ll be taxed and insured within the next two weeks and back in daily use. I can hardly wait! Once again my sincere thanks for all the advice and offers to help you guys gave me. You are a wonderful bunch of gentlemen. Warmest regards, Mike.

Totally Agree Brian.. I Experienced Exactly The same as yourself ..It Is so Frustrating.. Loyalty Means absolutely Nothing to Car insurance Companies...Try Compare the Market first Brian I Was Surprised at the Competitive prices on This site Even compared to the Other Two...Best of luck Sir...Regards..!!!!

Exactly, I had my 2019 UX upgraded at Brussels at no cost at all.

Small update on my experience so far: TLDR; If you use JPN spec parts, mainly the DSU, your max speed will be capped at 73 MPH. If this is a problem for you, use NA (North America) or EU spec parts. Most things have worked very well, however I noticed that the max speed you can set is capped at 73 MPH. After doing some research, this seemed to be a limit set on JDM cars due to local rules. This made sense, since the DSU that I had fitted was Japan spec. First I thought that resetting the DSU to it's virgin state would resolve the issue, however that didn't seem to fix it. What I ended up doing was writing the NA (North America) spec data onto the DSU, I got this from the screenshot posted by @SPC. I also had to swap the radar to an NA spec one, but I already had one spare from my previous attempts to get this working. Ideally, I would get EU spec parts, but I haven't found any EU spec radars on the market so I have had to result to either JPN or NA parts. On another note: @ianhu I will get back to you with those part numbers as soon as I get some time on my hand to do the research.

👋

Small Point Of Interest If you have a Noco boost Power unit..!!!!! DO NOT Leave it in The Boot.. Put It In Your Glove Compartment..!!!!

There is a Bluetooth battery monitor available from eBay for about £12.Made or sold as Vgate.It is a small plastic box,about the size of a matchbox,but 1/2 the thickness .It connects to the battery terminals with a ring fixing and when you activate Bluetooth from your phone using the app, it gives you the voltage. There is also a mode to show the voltage on startup..you need to force it to start the engine by going into drive and that usually starts the engine. I can check my voltage from the living room with the car in the carport.. at about 40..50 feet away,easier than getting the multimeter out,going up to the car,opening the battery compartment and poking the battery with the probes.

Throttle body cleaning Things you will need: A 10mm socket and a ratchet. Alternatively a phillips head screw driver might work. Needle nose pliars. The same cleaner you used for your MAF and a clean rag. Before you begin I highly recommend watching the car care nuts video on throttle body cleaning a lot of it is relevant and will give you a very good overview into what you are doing and why and its implications. Steps to get to throttle body 1) Pull up and remove engine cover. 2) Press the metal clip and pull back to release. The tension on these clips isnt too much. So you can just use your fingers to squeeze it. Squeeze it and pull it to the position you currently see in the picture 3) Now that the clip is off th spout. Wiggle the pipe while pulling it in order to disconnect it from the spout. 4) Unplug the MAF sensor as seen in my previous post. Once this is done you need to release the clip that holds the MAF wire loom on to the intake pipe. This can be done using needle nose pliars to squeeze the clip and push it out the hole. In my case the zip tie part of the clip came undone so the wiring loom was free. 5) Use the ratchet and 10mm socket to undo this bolt till you feel that the hose clamp is loose. As you can see this bolt also has a phillips head so you may be able to use a scredriver to undo this screw. When re-installing the torque specs for this bolt is 4nm but i didnt have a torque wrench that goes this low so i just tightened it what i thought was enough i.e not too tight. 6) Now undo the 5 clips on the air filter housing. Once you do this put your hand under the intake pipe assembly, just where it bends to go down to the throttle body and push forward. This should break the pipe free from the throttle body. Now just keep wiggling the pipe assembly forward and backwards while trying to pull it upwards and the entire assembly should lift off along with the top cover of the air filter box exposing the throttle body. As you can see there was quite some carbon build up around and on the edges of the butterfly valve it wasnt excessive just a thin layer. For 94k i think this isn't bad at all. Cleaning Spray some cleaner on your rag and start wiping with your rag. Use your fifingers to push open the butterfly valve and clean thoroughly using different clean sides of your rag after soaking it in clener. Do not spray cleaner directly into the throttle body you dont want that carbon going in you want it out. Dont use metal screwdrivers etc to keep the butterfly valve open you could cause damage. When pushing open or closing the butterfly valve make sure to be gentle. The spring action on the valve is quite strong so dont just let it go. Slowly release it to close when cleaning on the under side of the valve or around the throttle body walls on either side of the valve. Once done re assembly is just the reverse. Remember to connect back the hose you disconnected and plug in the MAF sensor. Overall i guess it is good to do this once in a while.

I have the same issues as you, I have a new RX450h+, the 12v battery is only 345amps, I have also been locked out on 3 occasions and now carry a battery pack. I have had several discussions with my local dealership about the problem, but Lexus aren't bothered, they keep their showroom cars on trickle charge and have suggested I do the same if leaving the car for any length of time. They also suggest when washing the car that I start it and leave it running on EV whilst doing so. I have a Nextbase camera, but do not use parking mode for that reason. I have just relocated my battery pack from boot to glovebox - thank you.

After following the above instructions, big shout out to @SPC, it works! I also found that you don't actually need to do any modifications to the DSU, only the ECM. It just means for who ever tries to attempt this, it's one less step. The setup I have working is with a Radar and DSU that are both Japan spec, even though my car is EU spec. I am also using a newer DSU than the one which is spec'd for the car. I am using Part No. 88150-52053 instead of 88150-52052 (which I never could find anywhere). This confirms that, you can use a Radar and DSU which is a different spec from the rest of your car, the important thing is to keep the DSU and Radar the same region. This should be helpful for anyone who is trying to get parts but can't find them in their same region. I have found some of these parts are much cheaper in the US. I will keep testing it and report back if there are any issues or DTC's that come up, but so far it's been clean. I am also fairly certain that I need to get the radar re-calibrated/re-aimed, even though it seems to be working without it for now. I am also planning to do a full write up for whoever want's to attempt this in the future.