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I visited Lexus Sheffield as I was worried about the thefts of ES models. Although the protection plate available is not made to fit the ES, they made slight alterations to it and fitted it free of charge. I also use a Disklok and a retractable driveway post for additional protection and so far the scumbags have not tried to overcome my efforts.

Hi finally fitted new super lightweight alloys and new tyres. Rims are from bola B2R. Tyres are continental all season. Got stunning deal on tyres about £60 each delivered 🙂. Wheels £600 delivered from factory. No clearance issues at all. Feels quicker off the line. According to Bola wheels web page saving minimum of 6kg per wheel which equates to a weight saving on sprung mass of approx 96kg in total. Suspension is now hard race adjustable top control arms with solid bushes, along with BC coilovers set 3/4" higher to allow for craters in our local "roads". Ride is very similar to my air suspension that was faulty. Off to Edinburgh on Wednesday for replacement radiator under warranty and get new hand brake shoes fitted. As shoes appear to have no friction material left 🤔. Will explain why parking brake has no feel or resistance.

Hey everyone, I picked up the keys to a Sonic White Lexus LBX last week, I am very impressed with the car. It is nimble and agile around town. Initial impressions are positive and I even got the thumbs up from a UX 300e owner at Waitrose! Please enjoy these pics and reach out if you want to know anything. Thanks, Thomas

I’d previously noted on a different thread about the rain sensing wipers ‘falling asleep’ after about 15 minutes of driving in light rain and then failing to clear the water no matter how wet the screen becomes. Having had my RX in for the first service the dealer confirmed that there is a problem and that it will require a replacement part to be installed under warranty. I’ve noticed posts on both the RX and RZ forums about this.

There is a definite fault with a batch of wiper motors, they need to replace the motor which is integral with the wiper arm linkage. Not had a problem since they replaced mine.

WHERE IS THE SOFTWARE UPDATE YOU PROMISED FOR THE END OF APRIL LEXUS ???????????

I also just got a rz Takumi for 2 years because the lease deal was amazing. £460 month with 3 months upfront and 10k miles a year. It's a great car and so far averageing 3.5m/kwh. Definitely worth it as I'm finding the positives far out way the negatives

Received a text last month requesting a recall for attention to the SOS switch...one next to the interior light switches. All done by dealer including a map update. Anyone else had same re-call ?

In my experience they won't include parts like spark plugs or water pump together with the service they should be done with. If you pay for parts then they will replace them as part of the service. So I would suggest inquiring again and making sure that spark plugs that usually costs like £280 just on their own are included in the service for £580. I consider that when Lexus had essential maintenance for cars over 5 years old, that was complete steal, honestly no independent garage or even Toyota could match them, nevermind beat them. But now that you have to pay full price for servicing car over 10 years old it is really questionable value.

I've noticed that there is a delay in the wipers going from normal to fast speed. Its almost like they need to build up speed rather than switching immediately! Haven't experienced them "falling asleep" - actually the opposite that once they start on intermittent wipe during drizzle or light rain they don't switch off!

Yes, apparently they closed a year or two back but ZX7's are still being sold. You can get them for the 450 in 18 or 19 inch size but the 20 inch are too wide at 255 and I want to retain the comfort of a 55 sidewall so those are out.

Had Yokohama Sports fitted by Lexus at £180 a corner all in which were my choice based upon the same tyre that was fitted to a previously owned Mazda CX5. No complaints so far after 3k miles.

I’ve often used Avon ZX7 tyres and found them to be excellent but unfortunately I have heard that the factory has closed and they are not being made anymore.(can anyone confirm?) Like you I’m thinking of trying the Yokohama blue earth tyres so will be interested to see how you get on with them.

The Lexus manual in my opinion is pretty poor. The so called index finds nothing most times, you have to wade through all the likely looking sections before you find, by chance, what you want. Even in a printed document these days, electronic searches at the publishing stage should produce a comprehensive contents section. Bill D.

Thank you so much for your detailed reply, I really appreciate it! It be parked in a garage front in but there is enough room to jump start if needed. My battery did go flat a year ago as I didn’t drive it for probably 2 months. The AA charged it enough for me to drive it to a Lexus garage nearby to replace the battery. I bought a Noco Genius 1 U.K. from Amazon. I will check to make sure which battery type it is. Thank you again for all the invaluable tips. I really would be pretty clueless without your help!

Hi Malc1 my Lexus is actually 325000 miles not 330k as I stated on previous posts. Next expense is getting paint work sorted 😬😬😬.

Hi Malc, the 01-03 have the orange indicator lenses. The 04-06 have clear lenses and orange bulbs.

On the RZ, the current trims in the UK are (in order) Premium, Premium Plus, then Takumi. As you move up, you get a higher specification and more features in the car. On other Lexus models, there’s often a trim below Premium that’s the base trim - often without a name, but more recently called “Urban”. Lexus have said they’ll be introducing an Urban grade on the RZ later in 2024. On other models you also get F Sport versions, which are a more sporty version (different seats / wheels / styling / extras etc.), and depending on the Lexus model there might also be a hierarchy there.

My friend has the Corolla estate a 2022 model I have sat in this Car over many miles with him driving but it sure does not have the comfort level of my ct200, he has the 4th generation drive train in his and usually his MPG is sitting around the 54, I do a lot of short town trips in my CT and get just under 40MPG, however I did a long trip to Birmingham and back a few weeks ago setting the cruise at 75MPH it returned 55MPH over the 700mls the first car I ever owned to get above 50, I guess in real terms and if I had done a brim to brim it would be a couple of miles less than that? anyway over that 700ml journey I found the comfort level of the CT to be superb the seats are near perfect to me perhaps even compares to Volvo seating and I've owned a few of these? When I bought the CT 3 months ago it is a 2018 model I had the option to get a Corolla Hybrid for the same price which was a year younger at the same mileage, the CT is in insurance group 17e with the Corolla in group 19e this would cost me £60 more to insure, I just had to have the Lexus perhaps one of the smartest small hatches on the road at this time, the Corolla in my opinion is a very ugly car both inside and out, this modern trend to have lots of piano black in the interior does not appeal to me, soundproofing is better on the CT than the Corolla, a couple of years ago I downsized from a Honda Accord Ex (perhaps the best car overall I have even driven) to a Yaris, I lived with this for over a year till it got to the point I would avoid driving it I hated this so much, but now I find the CT to have that same feel as a larger luxury car. I think it fair to say I am a happy Ct owner

They should be offering a blanket indemnity/insurance for all owners until this is sorted. On the one hand, I get it - criminals are scumbags who think only of themselves. On the other hand... this is not a new vulnerability in the automotive world - so I can only assume Toyota/Lexus have traditionally escaped because the line up hasn't been that desirable for a lot of theives before, so therefore they have literally just accepted the risk at some stage and pushed ahead. This is exactly what I could see happening when I was deciding whether or not to keep my LC, and given just how long it took to get simple stuff like the windscreen trim in order to replace the screen I had serious doubts as to how they would manage general remediation at scale, let alone prompt and high quality repairs to those who had fallen victim to the scum exploiting their baked in vulnerabilities. /End Rant/

I maybe wrong but I think your wheels may be the newer versions, but I am happy to be corrected by more the more knowledgable here.

Small update on my experience so far: TLDR; If you use JPN spec parts, mainly the DSU, your max speed will be capped at 73 MPH. If this is a problem for you, use NA (North America) or EU spec parts. Most things have worked very well, however I noticed that the max speed you can set is capped at 73 MPH. After doing some research, this seemed to be a limit set on JDM cars due to local rules. This made sense, since the DSU that I had fitted was Japan spec. First I thought that resetting the DSU to it's virgin state would resolve the issue, however that didn't seem to fix it. What I ended up doing was writing the NA (North America) spec data onto the DSU, I got this from the screenshot posted by @SPC. I also had to swap the radar to an NA spec one, but I already had one spare from my previous attempts to get this working. Ideally, I would get EU spec parts, but I haven't found any EU spec radars on the market so I have had to result to either JPN or NA parts. On another note: @ianhu I will get back to you with those part numbers as soon as I get some time on my hand to do the research.

Maybe this is your expectation but please take into account that many people don't want the paper version and instead, prefer to use an online / downloadable solution. Another part of the reason manufacturers don't provide paper manuals anymore is because people don't wan't to clutter their home / car. After all, I personally feel there are better things to store in the glove box than a 700 page manual. In any case, enjoy your new car and I hope you master the functions on your sat nav.

I used to (every year) use a dual action polisher, after using a clay bar and lubrication solution to remove all the environmental grime, along with 1800 followed by 2300 or 2500 grit polish. It lifts all the swirl marks and polishes to a deep shine. Took me around 3 hours to do an RX. Following that, I would use Menzerna's Lock & Seal polymer finish, then revert to weekly washes with PH neutral snow foam and waxing with a carnauba rich wax like macguires techwax. However, speaking with a few pro detailers , there are DIY ceramics (none of which are true ceramics but cross-linked polymer polishes loaded with SiO2) made now which can be easily DIY applied and which are very good indeed. I now use the CarPro CQuartz products. Once done, all you need do for the next 3 years is wash the car weekly using a PH neutral foam or hand washing solution, dry and spray apply CarPro Elixer spray to bring back a deep lustrus shine without the need for waxing. Wax looks good for a short while but doesn't last long and takes way more effort applying and buffing. Once the initial cut/polish is done to correct swirls and scratches, you only need re-apply the CQuartz every 3 years and the cost is about £40. It's as good as anything Lexus offers at their dealerships costing £800 per vehicle treatment imho. Just had my RX done and it looks showroom. Can be used on windscreens and headlamps too.

I had a phase of regularly seeing other LC500s but this seems to have dropped off recently. They definitely aren't common though.

I have now done a deep dive into the DRS issue I had, I have now replaced my ARS but more importantly identified the failure point and how to fix it, It’s a long read grab a cuppa and a biscuit...its worth it... hopefully it will help all Lexus owners with the Aisin rear DRS or ARS as Aisin call it… Background to Problem Background, this is important as it plays a part in the failure…..I had a long drive in the car from Manchester to Chester in poor weather conditions about 0 degrees it was raining and cold. The roads were gritted and snow/frost present. I parked the car from Thursday to Saturday in an open-air carpark where it was lightly snowing and it froze over the three nights the car was stood. Due to an Android Auto kit installed in the car it caused the battery to flatten, on the Monday the car would not start, meaning that I needed to jump start the car….I rang RAC and Lexus and followed the correct procedure to jump the car…I initially thought his had caused damage to the DRS ECU but this was coincidence and not the case as I found our later. I drove the car home with no problems on The Saturday. On the Sunday Drove 10 miles local, no issues. Then Drove 5 Miles, then had DRS, AFS and VSCR warning light illuminate The problem Scanned the Car, these were the fault codes - VGRS C15C9 DRS System Malfunction AFS B241D ABS/VSC/TRC C120E A malfunction signal is received from the rear steering control ECU for 1 second or more C1241 Low Power Supply Voltage Malfunction (Presumed due to the previous Low battery) The above modules with DTC’s pointed at the DRS ECU containing faults. I scanned the DRS ECU it had the following fault – C1B17 Motor Rotation Angle Mismatch (Stroke Sensor) I reset by using the workshop manual calibration using Techstream – · PERFORM ACTUATOR CALIBRATION VALUE INITIALIZATION · PERFORM NEUTRAL POSITION MEMORIZATION AND MOTOR ROTATION ANGLE SENSOR CALIBRATION. At this point, I expected the fault to be a damaged DRS ECU as I had jumped the car. I had investigated how the rack worked, it’s a very robust design and the components are designed to work under harsh conditions, at this point I was convinced it was the ECU as the car ran fine for a while then it came back, I assumed this was due to component failure in the ECU. Thinking it was the DRS ECU, I removed it and asked my brother to look at it, what he doesn’t know about electronics isn’t worth knowing. He took it apart and solder up what he thought could have been dry joints, I installed it back in the car and it all started working again… Two weeks later same fault…. what could it be??…I reset it as before and it kept coming back, randomly. It got to the point that it would not reset, UNLESS I hit the rear tyres with a lump hammer (Yes sometimes a big hammer works wonders) I was now thinking that as the rack worked periodically it “Could” be the rack, but I was still convinced that the design of the rack was pretty bullet proof in design. A brushless Motor, motor resolver and stroke sensor…robust, logical components for sollid DRS system. Side note - I have had Aisin gearbox’s in cars before, solid and reliable – Namely my Volvo 850R and T-5R. Just to rule out anything else I replaced the Auxiliary battery with a Genuine Lexus Battery, the fault still remained. In April the fault came back, no amount of hitting the tyres would allow me to reset it, the car was due a service so decided to ask Lexus to review the fault and let me have their verdict. The reason for this is that I wanted to be 100% of the fault before I planned my next move, I basically wanted someone’s second option to confirm it was the Rack. Lexus Service & Lexus UK The car went in at 109k for service and the Service Manager and Technician met me, very apologetic, it was the rack, the cost for the rack was £10k plus fitting, apparently a two hour job (and I can say it is only a two hour job…read on!) Note that due to the DRS fault the car now failed its Hybird Health Check, it’s covered for 15 years….. Not happy with this, I spoke to Lexus UK who would go 50% for the rack, as noted by @Damien7579…Still way too expensive…. I was not willing to accept this as an outcome, time to get my hands dirty.... Replacement Rack I wanted to repair the rack, BUT I could not take it off and use the car, so needed to source a rack, I could temporarily fit a none-steering rack from an GS F if I could not get a rack….. Okay, so I needed a Rack….a few options presented themselves – Rack from a LS500, or LC500 these are both the same in operation but I would need to replace the inner tie rods with the ones from my failed rack along with the mounting brackets. I had sourced a LC500 rack from the US about £1500 including import, this was an option. Used rack from a GS F-Sport….. these are like gold dust…none for sale anywhere. However, the world is a large place, time for “out of box” thinking… After looking though various Japanese car part websites, I managed to source a rack from Japan, second hand from the “Be-Forward” website. Some poor reviews on Trustpilot but many looked like they were made up. I conversed with them over Whatapp and their website, used my Visa card for payment (Credit cards provide insurance) and ordered it, £600 later and 10 days it turned up! So now I had a rack… Fitting I decided to fit the rack myself, I’ve lots of experience with cars at a hobby / enthusiast level, it didn’t look too hard… I took the diffuser off the car unconnected the Actuator from the ECU and commence operation, watch out for the little studs that held the diffuser on, they like to hurt you! - Before I started any work, I sprayed the track rod adjustments with WD40 and the location of the Bolts that hold the rack to the Subframe. I took photos of the track rod threads (And everything else I thought would be helpful) so I could get the wheels roughly pointing forward…IE Get the “Toe” as close as possible. View without diffuser... Bolts that hold on Actuator in Blue -- Soak these though with WD40 a couple of days before on both sides, they will be stiff... I decided to replace the rack without taking the wheels off (Yes it can be done), I drove to car into two blocks of think wood so give me some more space below the vehicle. I firstly unbolted the rack from the subframe, it stays in place as it’s held in by the track rods. I then started to slowly undo the track rods. The idea was that I would be left with the track rods connected to the wheels so I could simply screw the new rack onto them, this worked well. You have to be careful that the wheels stay pointing forward and take up any of the track rod movement by moving the actuator back above the exhaust, The actuator weights about 15kg once the track rods and free you can rest the actuator on the exhaust and then slowly remove it from the vehicle. Track Rod ends ready to recieve new actuator... New V's Old Actuator Actuator removed ready for new one... Fitting the actutor is in the reverse of removal I started at 7am and was done for 11am with a couple of tea breaks! New rack in place.. Proof of the Pudding Okay, now the actuator was fitted time to see if it works, I lifted the rear wheels off the ground using the Diff as per repair manual and - · PERFORM ACTUATOR CALIBRATION VALUE INITIALIZATION · PERFORM NEUTRAL POSITION MEMORIZATION AND MOTOR ROTATION ANGLE SENSOR CALIBRATION. It took three attempt and it worked on the last one, I think the reasons for this is the DRS ECU can only calibrate in small steps and had the previous rack setting stored, I am 99% sure this is why the Repair manual says 3 times. I replaced the rack on 18th May its now the 27th May and no faults 😊. Post mortem of Old rack This is where it gets interesting! I now had the old rack, I wanted to see what when wrong, and more importantly if it can be repaired. I know from the wiring and repair manual how the rack worked. I had previosuly measured all the Ohm resistances at the connector, and all were within spec. I was convinced that when I was hitting the wheels with a hammer it was dislodging material/debris somewhere. I noted that the schematic for the New LC500 was slightly different from the GS and it showed the Stroke Sensor as external to the rack, this corresponded to what I had identified as the stoke sensor. I decided to examine this. I attempted to remove the stroke sensor from rack, I managed to remove one screw, I stripped the head off the other so ended up drilling the head off, it was then I noticed that where the two screws pass through the stroke sensor the bracket has fatigue cracks and one side had failed, this wasn’t the main cause of the failure, which I will discuss shortly. What I did notice was the use of stainless-steel screws…these will react with the aluminium over time. Stoke sensor. I removed the stroke sensor sensor circled in Blue below - and looked inside the rack where it made contact with the worm drive, no debris and the worm drive/cog was perfect… The stroke sensor itself is in two parts, these are screwed together, again with Stainless Steel Screws, these had reacted with the Aluminium and I could not remove them, I examined these locations and again saw fatigue cracks in the casings one side had failed. Since I considered the part was broken I decided to force them apart. When I did, between these parts is a small rubber gasket, definitely NOT up to the job of keeping moisture out, this in my opinion is a poor design, there should be a complete gasket between both. This design has allowed water to penetrate between them and the constant attacked of moisture and freezing has forced the case apart causing water ingress inside the senor, I have said before, the design is pretty “Bomb Proof” BUT this slight oversight has caused the failure. Removed stroke sensor - Red=Broken Bracket, Blue=Gap between both casings, Green=You can see the fatigue crack here Better View of broken mounting to stroke sensor casing due to fatigue and probalby interation between different materials. After I broke the casing open - Inside the Stroke sensor, bandy damaged by corrosion and water ingress... Sensor full of debris and corrosion...causing the readings to fluctuate out of spec I am now trying to source a stroke sensor and expect this to be a complete repair for the rack, before I fit it, I will be upgrading the interfaces and inserting gaskets. I have made contact with Aisin and expecting a call back for their technical chap., I may even decide to repair the current stroke sensor. I am frustrated that I fitted the new rack with this issue present, I may removed the rack and rectify the defect, OR just spray the Stroke Senor area with protection, such as paint or plastidip....The rack was from Japan and looks amlost like new so not concernded for the time being... Conclusion Remember at the start, when I said the car has stood in freezing conditons?? I am sure that was the start of the END for the Stroke Senor due to the freezing conditons driving the casing apart letting more moisture in. I hope this helps someone who finds themselves in the same position as me, I will report back if I get the stroke sensor, I am confident that the stroke sensor was the problem looking at the corrosion inside of it.

Yes, as I have said before on this forum, as someone who has enjoyed a lifetime career in the printing industry hard copy manuals should come as standard!

Perhaps they are becoming more common in the SW but I remember not seeing one on the road in the whole year we were waiting for ours to be delivered. My wife got quite excited when the yellow hybrid drove past our house recently and started waving vigorously at the owner. Poor sod must have thought she needed taking away!

2 wheels and me don't get along. My friend Paul let me have a go on his Lambretta. Think it must have looked farcical with me trying to hold it off the wall whilst simultaneously revving it (unknowingly). Riding back pillion on it we went across a railway crossing and l levitated to having the rear passenger bar wedged right where it was excruciating. In blind oanic I tried to hang on to Paul. We were saved by our other friend coming up behind and literally pushing me back into place. I don't understand why I never got to ride the scooters again (sic).

So who is it ? C’mon YOU know we want to know ……. being in the know is the font of all know…ledge the new proud owner of your illustrious last of the line Ls400s ……… who are U ? Malc

I'm running a 2002 GS300 with LPG at the moment, I used to have the RX300 which on normal driving wasn't very good on fuel. I used to do a lot of miles. I've been looking at the RX400H because of the 30+ MPG. I'm not sure where I saw it, it might have been on here, but there was a guy who put a range extender battery from a Tesla in his wheel well, which is pretty much the same as an LPG tank, and he tripled his mpg. I was wondering if anybody on here had seen his post and could they repost it. Thanks.

H3xme your car is a 350 right? How’s the fuel economy vs the 250? I want to get an import bad but it will be my daily and I don’t want to be murdered at the pumps haha. This is my 250

Ask to see the trunk chassis and frame area – to check for water ingress – it can be a bit of an issue with our 400s. Know when the belt and water pump were last done Service history is nice to see (20 year old motors may have a mixed heritage in that regard) Nice to get 2 working, unbroken fob keys and maybe a valet if your lucky Check radiator plastic for hairline cracks and scalding marks (rad replacement needed).

Re: Max Range. Could it be low simply because the car is brand-new? I believe the range is calculated on recent historical average MPG, so the range will probably increase over time. If 53mpg becomes the norm, the range should be in excess of 400mls.

Just collected mine this afternoon, and after a 4.5hr lovely drive, it’s home [hence the dark pictures].

No room on the streets of London Dan, they’re booked in advance with Israel and Palestine demo’s 🥴

You are not the only ex-customer. As above, even a Ghost type thing would do far more good than Lexus sitting on their hands for weeks. Until every single car is protected none of us are protected against damage from a theft attempt. This is a brands reputation that’s at risk. Lexus don’t have the history, the motorsport or the ubiquity many others do - their reputation is solely based on customer service and quality - if as a business you lose that you may as well pack your bags. If they teamed up with Trackerteam or someone similar who has a network of fitters they could roll out simple immobilisers incredibly quickly at less than £200 per car. Brake light switch, gear selector, trans ECU, fuel pump relay - there are plenty of options that’d be easy to fit but a pain in the backside to locate, access and hack. Meh. I’m disappointed. It’s now May.

Lexus 430 SC I gave all the sealing rubbers a good wash,let dry then a bit of protection lubricant to keep them supple!Very therapeutic!😁

……… and never been undercoat / “ protected “ I’d be amazed if a modern day new car couldn’t last 20 years before becoming an MOT Advisory for rust ……. except the exhaust course We are no longer in the realm of 1970’s Lancia dreadful steelwork Malc

NOOOOO - please don't! The coating which is essentially like rubber is meant for old cars, I would say even vintage/classic cars. Have you seen how underbody of RX350h looks (or any Lexus from last 20 years for that matter?)... it is plastic clad everywhere! So applying rubberised coating like on 1970s Ford Cortina is not the way to go. What you need is to go to detailer and ask to apply something like Bilt Hamber Atom-Mac or Hydrate 80. https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/collections/corrosion-rust-treaments/products/bilt-hamber-atom-mac?variant=32326776291407 https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/collections/corrosion-rust-treaments/products/bilt-hamber-hydrate-80?variant=39561981001807 And it looks something like this: After that if you really want to go above and beyond - you can ask all the plastic panels to be removed and underside of the car to get ceramically coated, so it is basically becomes hydrophobic. But that is really unnecessary. What usually happens to newer Lexus is that exposed suspension components, bolts in particular get's rusty, everything under plastic covers are usually fine.

Hi Karl, The previous owner of my car fitted the roof rails in our 2015 RX450h. See the attached images of the instruction manual which includes the Lexus part number - 08301-48800. I believe the cost is around £300 from Lexus Parts Direct. I hope this helps.

Quick update...... It seems towbars are VERY expensive to retrofit on the new RX. I got quotes from 2 other Lexus dealerships - one was £1900 and the other £2050. Crazy!

Interested to know if you did need to take it in for support and what was the fix. Had my RZ for one week and even though the cable clicks when connected to the car and the green circle comes on the home charger, it's hit and miss whether it charges. Takes lots of taking the cable out putting it back in etc before it works. Had the same thing using a charger at work. Despite the schedule set the same in the lexus app and the home charger it's only once clicked in and charged. Having to do manual mode and keep messing with the cable until it clicks and starts. Haven't tried public charging or fast charger yet.

Coming up to June and not even an update from Lexus, this is appalling. Disklok Diamond release has been pushed back to Mid-June as well. 😮‍💨

And one I am less proud of, following an incident with a temporary curb in a drive through bakery. I blame the co-pilot! Due to a nick in the sidewall on the tyre, we replaced it. When we saw the thickness of the run flats tyre wall, we realised that we had perhaps been over conservative, but better safe than sorry.

The video is a bit distorted but it looks like an ES. Definitely taken through CANBUS theft (passenger side light out). So much for the steering wheel lock. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-13092491/Moment-car-thief-uses-angle-grinder-remove-steering-wheel-lock-stealing-Lexus-east-London.html