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It's that guy atticus. He said in another thread that he'd "put down a deposit on an ES300".

I would get a piece of damp toilet paper and ......... Oh but it will be miles away by now!😶

On a selfish note, I have just had good news. My new NX has “LEFT THE FACTORY”

It's probably been left by a Squab that's been orphaned, and now suffering post-parental shock. The old saying explains: "Every good turd, deserves a mother"

The main issue for you is your location late last year I had the timing belt all tensioners water pump and regas for the air con Total £ 620. I used a local independant with a good reputation and sourced genuine Lexus parts from the UAE for £250.The work is warranted because I sourced genuine Lexus parts. The labour part with regas was £370,of which regas £76. The work you will get done at Lexus will be warranted and you will get free cups of coffee in a very nice waiting area but as I have said many times somebody as to pay for that.

not sure if I should be replying on an old thread but I have good news, my car has finally been upgraded with android auto/apple car play. had it done Monday (at official Lexus dealer) after couple of calls in march to Lexus HQ (possibly the missing part was available). is it good? display wise yes but bit mixed as I don't get the HUD directions while using google/waze via android auto - I haven't cycled through the HUD display options yet though the Lexus nav has also been upgraded as it was on some old version so that's good as well.

I suggest you administer a lead suppository...to the pigeon.

Initially when I looked through the quote I thought it was expensive but having checked the retail prices it’s not too bad when it includes labour and I would assume sundries such as gaskets and fluids. Just another thought, as a LOC Gold member have you asked the dealer for a discount? Even 10% would be a significant saving or to look at it another way and more satisfying half the VAT back. Finally it all depends on what they find during the service checks as to whether there may be additional costs, the favourite “Your brake pads are below recommended thickness by 0.27mm”

Yes but if the council isn't aware of the the pothole how can they repair it? Problem is there is no preventative maintenance anymore, no one from the council driving each road checking condition ...

Have a look at this, and it’s in English not single or double Dutch🤣 I bought a fully assembled programming device rather than a diy one, nothing wrong with that by the way and I could build one no problem. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-immobilizer-hacking-for-lost-keys-or-swapped-ecu.1306497/#post-10860457 Basically, all that stuff is to reset the immobiliser/chip to ‘factory’ settings, for want of a better expression, with no ‘keys’ stored ready for new keys to be programmed to the car/immobiliser. Simple thing in theory but not in reality, simple with £1000’s of fancy equipment but the same can be said of a lot of things. Thinking about it all again, if I can retrieve and save the immobiliser ‘key’ data from the existing ECU without removing the tiny ‘chip’, then I could simply ‘clone’ or ‘write’ the ‘key’ data from my existing ECU to the new ECU. I’ll experiment on the replacement ECU and retrieve the ‘key’ data then take it from there.

I thought this may be f interest to members. https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/new-and-used-cars/article/supermarket-petrol-quality-what-you-need-to-know-aWlmN3O20LKI

When I find the pigeon which did this, it's going to regret what it did mark my words....

Thank you for this input! Appreciate it. All makes sense. I will probably do the authorised Lexus dealer inspection and go from there. The dealer I bought from is a few hours away which makes things slightly trickier in practical terms - though I guess in legal terms there are added protections under long-distance selling conditions, as I bought online. They called me back to do a walk-through to see what was wrong but by then it had resolved - but who knows for how long... There is also a 3-month warranty via the dealer but it's with Handler Protect.

Tonight's result. 52/48.9.

My mate would have bought that car, A real bargain 👌 @DJT

It would have to be exceptionally tall. They can’t fly!

Looks more like an Ostrich to me

Probably a Seagull rather than a Pigeon, they seem the worst culprits.

Sorry - thanks Glynn!!!!

Almost! The dealer is carrying out a service and fixing up some bodywork (couple of scratches and a dent). Once that is done, I will collect the car.

Not trying hard enough!!!! When I had my ISF, I managed 6 mpg!!!!

That makes sense - I forgot about GPF.

Keep us updated please Howard.

The tread on the rest of the tyre looks fine . I really not keen on replacing perfectly goods just because of wear on the edge of the tyres. I have asked Lexus to look at the alignment when it is being serviced.

........... and if I was ever to get a replacement car I would always carry a spare wheel of some style AND a jack My son-in-law out with the family the other weekend in his Arbath hit a pothole and had to call the RAC to get them, eventually, to find an open garage selling tyres that weekend day ...... took many many hours from the family day out to fix the problem and shed loads of £££££ .. his tube of instant tyre fix foam wasn't going to sort out the issue Motto ... whatever space you have, do indeed get a spare wheel and a jack Malc

No, it's just that C and M looked to be set up for car displays. Maybe if everyone is keen to have meetings we could try there later. There was a very nice gathering down here in Hampshire last year, my thoughts were to maybe get it a bit more central so more people may attend.

The name certainly rings a bell. I think I had a pair of yellowish-brown AMBERVISION glasses a long time ago - maybe as far back as the 70s. I used them purely as sunglasses and it never occurred to me that they might have been good for night driving, as indeed they very possibly would have been. Regrettably it came naturally to me to take them off around dusk.

Peter here (north Hampshire) we do have an operative driving around and sitting in lay-bys.Unfortunately Hampshire CC haven't yet issued him with a Labrador and white stick ,as potholes appear at an alarming rate and only a very tiny number get repaired.

The optional extras list for BYD cars is amazing but a little restricted for UK models (115-121a)

They are working on it. So far they need to mix the hydrogen with some other stuff to run in the turbines, but will probably find a way to get around that.

Hi everyone have carried out brake light check no bulbs out. Have had a quote from a lexus dealer for all work that I would like carried out. Not as bad as I feared. Still not cheap. Having a 100,000 mile/10 year service. Will attach costings and what is covered in 100,000 mile service and cost of additional parts. From what is on list should cover everything that is likely to give a problem I have spoken to our Service Department and the prices for the 100,000 miles/10-year service and the other repairs are quoted below. The prices assume that the additional items are carried out at the same time as the service as some labour savings are included in these prices: 100,000-mile service which includes a timing belt and coolant change - £955.25 including VAT Timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys - £395.33 including VAT (If replaced during the 100k service) Water Pump - £363.56 including VAT (if replaced during the 100k service) Radiator - £683.39 including VAT (If replaced during the 100k service) A brake check would be included as part of the Vehicle Health Check which is carried out during the service and any repairs necessary would be estimated at this time. We would require the vehicle for two days in order to complete the repairs. Price for 100K/120 service is £770 Carry out 100K/120 month full service as per schedule. Includes:- Replace engine oil & oil filter. Inspect drive belt. Replace engine timing belt. Replace windscreen washer fluid. Check all fluid levels & top up as required. Inspect battery for leaks, security of clamps & terminals. Inspect cooling system, hoses & connections. Inspect radiator & condenser for debris & signs of damage. Replace engine coolant. Inspect air filter element. Inspect valve clearances. Inspect power steering fluid level. Replace brake fluid. Inspect brake pads & discs. Check brake pipes & hoses. Inspect fuel cap, fuel lines & connections. Replace rear differential oil. Inspect steering wheel, gear & linkages. Inspect drive shafts including CV boots. Inspect ball joints & dust covers. Inspect wheel bearings. Inspect wheel alignment. Inspect front & rear suspension. Inspect for under vehicle and under hood fluid leaks. Check exhaust system for security & leaks. Check all tyre pressures (including spare if equipped). Check wheel rims for damage & tighten wheel nuts to correct torque. Check operation of hand brake. Check brake pedal travel. Check operation of lights, horns, wipers & washers. Check function of all warning lights. Inspect glass and light lenses. Replace pollen filter. Check seat belts for damage & operation. Check operation of alarm system. Check installation of driver's floor mat. Replace remote control battery. Carry out wash & vacuum. Carry out visual safety report. Certainly a very through check if every item listed is checked. Views or opinions most welcome. Only other quote I have received is £1048 for list below Cambelt and Water Pump Postcode: KW14ND Car reg: KJ04AED Edit job Additional work Radiator; hand brake check.

https://www.auto-data.net/en/bmw-700-ls-luxus-0.7-30hp-42570 Its here Malc! has been here for years!

To be honest Len, the fitter I went to (not my local one but the only one in the surrounding area that could supply the correct tyre in 24 hours) hardly spoke a word of English and wasn't very forthcoming so I didn't push for any "post match analysis" 😗 The alloy wheel itself appears to be ok.

Who knows Malc. The way car manufacturers are joining forces on some models could lead to a collaboration between RR and Lexus 🤔

Yes that's the one.

these insurers brokers simply make it all up as they go along .............. I've been assured many years running that because i park my cars on the road outside my home, that REDUCES the cost of cover ....... heaven alone knows eh ! Malc

Mark I am the same as you, exchanged a premium plus for a MY23 premium plus. I haven't found a way around the six station restriction either. Regards the sound system I noticed an extra speaker grill in the boot with the new model so perhaps that's why you noticed an improvement in the sound? Cheers, Barry

Au contraire, I think they are perfectly suited to hilly. mountainous roads. Battery assistance on the way up and regenerative braking on the way down. As for the cruise control not slowing one down, that is slightly irksome but if one is following another car it will slow to keep distance, other wise gently brake and recover the energy to the battery, something the Kia couldn't do and wasted that energy to heat and wear on the pads/discs. Regarding the voice guidance all one can do is adjust the voice volume, unless one is blasting out the music one can still hear quite clearly. The guidance is also given in the cluster and HUD.

I have the alignment check by a local tyre shop every couple of years and the alignment has been fine. If they out of alignment it can effect braking and fuel economy. Do use local tyre shop with the right gear and they are a lot cheaper than Lexus with the same results.

EEPROM programmer delivered today, looks a nice piece of kit, and some standard 8 pin IC sockets for the dash mileage EEPROM. Just waiting for other bits, blank 93C56 EEPROM's for the IMMO to practice with, workstation magnifying glass so I can see the small IMMO EEPROM if I need to remove it, solder paste, good quality solder wick, flux pen and some flux remover/cleaner (leaving flux residue can cause corrosion) I also ordered a lot of caps from DigiKey (bought in lots of 10 in most cases), enough to do a few Mk4 and MK1 ECU's (I have a Mk1 ECU from when I was thinking of buying a Mk1 a while ago) and a few Mk2 and Mk3 probably. Sounds extravagant but for the cost of them versus shipping cost, it was worth buying a lot. After I have a play with the programmer and blank 93C56 EEPROM's...........the plan is: Have a go at reading the IMMO EEPROM on the board - if that is successful I'll save a dump file of the data - reprogram the EEPROM to reset/virginize it - read and save this new reset/virginized dump file - replace all the caps - fit ECU to the car - connect battery - add my existing keys in programming mode (if it works) and see what happens. If I can't connect to the IMMO EEPROM on the board, I'll remove it, stick it in the programmer and carry on as above. If it all goes well, the car starts and runs for a while with no issues etc, I'll swop the original ECU into the car and make sure everything works as it did before and the keys still work. If that is also ok, I'll put the replacement ECU back in and replace the caps on the original ECU. Then swop them around again so the original is back in the car with new caps and the VIN is correct. That's the plan but may be subject to change and include a lot of frustration along the way😃

Clearly it’s not normal. Obviously excessive camber. Getting an alignment check is good advice as it’s not going to get better by itself. You want to look around for someone using Hunter Hawkeye equipment. Probably that’ll be a good tyre retailer. In fact I see that a Google search for ‘ Hunter wheel alignment Kent’ brings up quite a few operators.

Here's some more variations on grilles and body kits. Some people spend serious money on their SC's Which Kit Do You Like Best? - Page 30 - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion The photobucket on the photos is annoying though.

From what I've read in here, as soon as you say it's a hybrid they'll run a mile and say that they don't deal with hybrids. However, if they do and if they say it needs regassing, make absolutely sure that they know to use ND11 oil instead of the PAG oil that conventional cars use. The refrigerant gas is the same but the lubricating oil has to be ND11 or equivalent, which is a high dielectric oil that doesn't conduct electricity. As I said above, the compressor is driven by an electric motor and the windings of that motor sit in the oil for cooling purposes. PAG oil will damage the windings and result in insulation resistance breakdown, allowing the 500V to track to earth, which in the case of hybrid cars is the car body. There are inbuilt safety measures to avoid the body becoming live but if something were to go wrong.....

Thanks Barney, yes he was a lovely chap and restored my faith in the fact there are some decent people out there. He was the only prospective buyer that I was happy to give my home address to. The others I’d offered to meet nearby with the proviso that once we were both happy with each other we’d go onto my house. Probably sounds a bit of overkill but better to be safe than sorry and the buyer was proof that you meet the nicest people in a Lexus! Finally got the GS last Thursday evening, beautiful car and when the time comes to sell the car, really hoping I find another great private buyer.

Ask the dealer to explain what indicators are, and when you should use them.

Replied via email. Check your SPAM folder as GMail just loves dumping stuff in there!

Smell itself could be due to bad reading.. ECU get's wrong reading, send wrong air/fuel ratio, for example when engine is cold ECU uses richer mix to heat-up cats, but if reading is wrong it may be dumping fuel all the time (perhaps related to your higher than normal revs)... cat does not work optimally and you get smell... The way to further diagnose this would be to look at "live data" e.g. if you have bad sensor it would likely show like just stable 14V or 0V (open or short circuit, whereas normal would be fluctuating ~1V). So for example if issue is caused by the leak, you would see O2 sensor output fluctuating as you rev the engine, but in wrong range... whereas if it is dead, then it will simply going to be stuck to most likely 0V. Anyway - I am speculating a lot here... In short what I am trying to say - smell may indicate that cat isn't working efficiently, but not necessary that it is actually bad. It may not work efficiently due to many reasons. I am quite surprised it shows C1201 (which is comms error), nasty to diagnose on it's own, but sometimes shows it's ugly face together with other codes like for example bad O2 sensor... so most likely will disappear when you fix P0420. The other funny code is B1421... it just means when you were reading codes car was inside the garage or it was dark, so ambient light sensor gives a fault code for that... very picky... if you shine the shop light at the sensor the code would dissapear 😄 Good luck with the fix and let's us know how it went...

Turning the internal motion sensor off doesn't disable the main alarm, just the tilt and internal motion detection. If a door is opened without the fob the alarm should still sound and the immobiliser is also still active.

How have you got on AF?

I have the same issue, it was -6 centigrade this morning so pre-heated the car with a domestic 2kW portable fan heater (£11.99 from Screwfix) this morning while I sat in the house with a cup of tea. Not ideal, but solves the defrost problem on really cold days ...