Leaderboard

Just heard back from the dealer. Apparently I was the first one in Europe who reported this lol. Spoke to the service manager - said they would go ahead to have it replaced under warranty. Apparently it’s going to be a relatively big job as expected and they need the car for a good few days. He offered some personalised service for getting the car to the workshop (to be confirmed though) so very impressed so far (my local Lexus service centre has not even called me back lol). Not going to happen until at least April anyway - hopefully it will be all fine.

Oh Damian. What a b*gger, 'life's' dealt you a set of cards that you cannot change, of course. All you should do now is to work as hard as possible at enjoying everything available, and take care of yourself as well. I understand your reluctance and resignation with the CT, but it is ONLY a car, and as you've discovered, there are more important things than cars. Take care, enjoy the world, and may you live long.

Plus a second hand engine will be an unknown quantity with a very limited warranty.

Michael, so sorry to hear of this disaster with your beloved Ls400 Echo all the above really .......... what mileage has she done and when was the cambelt last changed and at what mileage ? did the garage place an appropriate sticker on the engine somewhere ? NOW .... . is she a Mk3 or a Mk4 car ? ....... and can you share the reg no. ? We are all so inquisitive on here you know 😅 Best wishes Malc

I've changed a few engines in my time and it is definitely a doable job. It requires focus and meticulousness. I've never changed a 1uz, but the principles are the same. I don't think that there will be any issues with security, engine control module or transmission if replacing like for like. There aren't any 'smart' components on these engines that 'communicate with the ecu, only sensors that feedback a defined value based on operating conditions. So it is literally plug and play. This is one area that there may be issues with clips breaking etc but this is par for the course dealing with older cars and can be resolved by replacing the connectors/sensors if needs be. There may be tiny differences in fuel injector flows etc, but the ecu can adapt based on sensor readings and time driving the car. I agree with ambermarine: "I would get an analysis of what as occured in your present engine because an insitu rebuild of that may be more within the capabilities of an independant," However it's usually cheaper to replace the engine than to rebuild one in situ as all the components quickly add up... for example if the belt snapped and pistons said hello to valves: Replace broken connectors Gasket sets Replacement valves Valve stem seals timing belt, water pump, pulleys and tensioners, valve adjustment Replacement pistons if badly damaged, ring set, potentially bearings etc If you're paying a garage to do this then it really starts to add up. If you were to replace the engine like for like it would make sense to do the timing belt etc if condition was unknown and then any connectors/sensors that are damaged. Apologies if I rambled a bit(replying quickly while at work), happy to clarify any points if you need

Would be interested in having more details, if you're willing to share them, e.g. what's the car's mileage and when was the cambelt last changed (date and mileage)? My (indy) mechanic says that whenever he's changed a belt on an LS400 the old one has never shown any signs of wear - not that that's a reason to put off the replacement. Mine's due next year, I think, after 10 years but only about 25,000 miles. Phil's (ambermarine) suggestion sounds sensible, given that you'd have to source a decent engine - and how would you know it's okay? I gather most of them find their way straight into other cars. I met someone the other day who put one in a Toyota Hi-Lux pickup.

Changing the engine is a major task and after a replacement is fitted marrying up the security and ecm needs software updates so it could be costly and its unlikely Lexus dealerships would take the task on.This then leaves you in the hands of a independant who may not have the back up to get it running after installation. I would get an analysis of what as occured in your present engine because an insitu rebuild of that may be more within the capabilities of an independant,and there would be no issues marrying it up to your present security and transmission.

Car is now through the MOT and ready for me to pick up. The work has been done to renew the handbrake and the caliper was fine, on investigation just turned out to be a buildup of grease. Thanks for the responses and guidance on potential suppliers!

That's what I first thought, the cam belt. I suppose it depends on how much investigation was actually carried out or whether it's just an assumption.

When was the cam belt last replaced? The earlier models up to October 1994 had non interference engines but later models with higher compression ratios became interference. At one time engines could be got for £500.00 or so but with less survivors now finding a good one for less than £1K could be a challenge.

Sounds more like a snapped cam belt… Should be a few units around with ok mileage…the bodywork/ chassis took most to an untimely end.

An excellent Posting to the Debate Steve. I would add just one set of a few words for you personally Steve, Some Insurance Companies--and yours might be one such Company charge the client (you) should they seek to cancel a Contract prior to its previously agreed Termination Date. Unless you have checked the Policy Wording, simply do not renew. Good luck.

Try here: https://lexusbreakers.co.uk/lexus-used-parts-search/ search for "Wheel"

Plottwist!! Today, this afternoon the European Parliament will vote on the official ban for Internal combustion engines as from 2035. It was expected to be a formality as all laws are prepared and everybody will vote for it. BUT THEN!! Italy is going to vote against and Germany all of a sudden wants ICE continued with E-fuels.

Malcom.. Just been on to Lexus car insurance and they tell me there is no club Discount for members Of the Lexus Owners Club..I Would have thought That They Would have been the FIRST on The list..Absolutely Shocking They are not offering Lexus Members This incentive to Insure with Them... What do you Think ?

After much deliberation I finally got round to fitting the mud flaps. Quite an easy job. I was concerned about possible increased aerodynamic noise, as unlike most people on here I don't find the ES a particularly quiet car, but they haven't increased the noise at all.

Located in front of the engine coolant radiator so unfortunately exposed to the elements and debris damage.

Engine bay

I hope I won't need them but if I do, this is super useful, thank you @agent_dess !

Your speedometer will under read by approx 10% Your insurers may have a view ...

Sorry to hear this, difficult change for anyone. Hope you see an improvement long term.

I decided to tax the RCF this morning as I thought it might go up in the budget. Although my car wasn't registered until 31/5/2017 the tax is £165 for the year so decided to go ahead. I had planned to hold out until May but it would appear there is no need. Think I might just go out and waste some petrol today.

That's my combo...Looks great, I was going for a the grey and cream but seeing it in the flesh made me change my mind. Mine is on the boat and will be here (France hence Left hand drive setup) by the end of the month and registered beginning of April... I love the light colored roof liner (I'm done with black roof liners), the color of the leather (with should be easier to maintain than cream...Cream is nice but even a small amount of dirt or a color cloth transfer will necessitate a cleaning session) and the deep green with its glittering flakes. Here are a few pictures from the dealership and the last one is with direct sunlight.

😂 I hope I'm like that at 61. I'm sure I will be. I still laugh at my own farts

Can't tell you anything at all about the car. But for what it's worth the dealers are the ones I bought my ISF from, found them a pleasure to deal with, one of the guys has (or had in 2019) an ISF of his own and knows a lot about the Lexus F cars

Last years intermediate service on my ISF was £322 all in, that was only a int or int+ service though so this year will cost more. If you want work doing that's not on the schedule that's usually chargeable, if it is on the schedule it's usually part of the service cost. Some dealers are good though and will try to help out with cost, I.E mine always discount the cost of an air filter on services that should replace it as I have a TOMS panel.

Malc. That is a fair point. My wife has not had the car for long and I have not yet had a proper look underneath. (Too busy fixing water ingress). I will be careful.

So had the remap today, first impressions, every one who owns an IS220D should have a stage 1 remap. It literally brings the car to life. The difference between 174bhp and 208bhp is very noticeable in the higher gears (4th, 5th, 6th) and the added 45lbft makes 2nd and 3rd gear an absolute joy, in the blink of an eye you've made your way from 30-70mph, whilst being firmly pinned back in the seat, gone is the sedate linear power delivery replaced by an expressively torque driven power band that ends around 3900rpm where the increased bhp takes over. Two things to bear in mind with a generic map (even if it was originally dyno created) it will not cure the turbo lag, which is more severe than I've experienced on any other TD before and it won't remedy the 6th gear issue on the motorway, it does however make the car labour considerably less in 5th gear at a slightly lower speed than the UK motorway limit (70). Naturally I spent most of my time exploring the new power bands, and thus the mpg figures I returned for the 100 Miles I covered post map weren't anything like as good as they could have been, but despite being a 50/50 mix of urban and extra urban driving, the return was 46.1mpg, and I'm confident another 10% can be yielded once my normal driving style resumes. On top of this, it takes the ECU approx 500 miles to learn and adapt to one's driving style, and as a result, average mpg gains from a fully adapted map range from 3-5%, so all in, I think there could be another 15% increase in mpg to come after the next tank of fuel, which would equate to 50mpg plus on a 50/50 split of urban/extra urban. All in all, well worth the expenditure and totally transforms the feel of the IS220D.

Great find, good job you didn't have to spend £1600+ to get it back on the road. Hope the fix goes well.

Neither Lexus nor Toyota make their own batteries, they just buy in and slap their name on them so there's no actual thing as a "genuine" Toy/Lex battery. As long as it physically and securely fits where it's meant to and the terminals have the correct orientation, any battery will do the job because 12VDC is 12VDC no matter what. Yuasa are a well-respected brand but I've not taken much notice of the market for years so I'm not sure about others these days.

An issue very similar to this was reported on the US Club Lexus forum a while back and it was felt that it was a manufacturing defect caused by the airbag contained within that section of the dash creating an indentation. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-2nd-gen-2022-current/987948-check-your-nx-manufacturer-defect-nx-airbag-imprint-indentation-do-you-have-this.html Looks like it's not an uncommon occurrence across different makes of cars. Unfortunately the thread on that forum seems to end without any update on whether the OP's issue was solved. Nevertheless I thought you might be interested in reading it. Sorry I can't help further. I hope you can get it resolved.

I have front and rear dash cams fitted and a tracker. I only drive the car occasionally so what I do is connect my Ctek battery charger for 24 hours every 2-3 week that way I never have a flat battery.

If you buy a camera with a dedicated hardwire kit (or there are even generic hardwire kits out there that will work with any camera) then there's usually a voltage sensor/selector included. My Viofo A129 Duo uses the HK3 (Hardwire Kit 3) and allows me to set a voltage limit beyond which it will not drop. From memory I think 11.8V, 12.0V, 12.2V and 12.4V are selectable and if I select 12.2V for example, once the battery gets to that value the camera supply is switched off, so as to not leave you with a flat battery.

Osram Night Breakers are pretty good, available in most fitments Halogen, Xenon etc.

Good to hear, if you’re changing all the bushings you could even have it blasted and power coated first. Did you get your dog to open the box or was it more of a kid with a Christmas present moment for you 😀

Got my replacement subframe. No rust at all, been properly degreased. Needs new bushes. From Nissan Auto Spares. £360 including P&P

I had mine (SC430) done last year by Toyotec in Salfords near Redhill/ Gatwick. Independent Toyota/Lexus specialists seen several SC430s being sorted there over the years. Genuine Lexus parts used and bill was about £850 if I remember correctly. Have taken my car to them for service and MOT every year since I bought it. No complaints

You're right. But even worse is commuting into London. You arrive at the platform 43 years early on a freezing cold morning, the train driver hasn't bothered to get out of bed so the train is late. There's no seats available so you have to stand all the way, having bought a 1st class season ticket in the hope of avoiding this. And then they go on strike too.

It doesnt get much better. Electric vehicles more expensive to fuel than gas-powered cars at end of 2022: consulting firm Research shows that rising electricity prices and stabilizing gas prices made internal combustion engine cars more economical than their electric counterparts in late 2022

get Aviva to use Lexus to supply and fit the windscreen then ? Malc

The saga continues… Start of claim - 4th January 2023 4 calls throughout January to last week, same fob off “we have a back log” 1st complaint offered £75 compensation - I refused and told them said they should pay that to their approver 2nd call resulted in a manager calling me back with a fob off The online complaints get put in a queue also Absolute crap service in the event of a claim no fault or otherwise To top it all after getting approval on the quote, they send you a survey to complete - my feedback is as below: How do you rate Sarah’s Service - 8 How do you rate Churchill - 0 How likelihood woul you recommend Churchill - 0 Churchill are an embarrassment to the insurance industry - it feels like I am not insured. It does not take 6 weeks to approve a no fault claim. I have been fobbed off by call operators, Managers who frankly you should sack, and even when filling in a complaint on your website, that gets put in a queue and has not even had a response. As a customer who pays in advance to receive such shocking service, it is safe to say that I will be recommending to all not to use Churchill, I will not only not be renewing, I will be cancelling before the end of this cover completes. Your social media sites should tell you what your customer base thinks of your service, but by the looks of it Churchill ignore this as well. Overall if there was a minus number on your ratings I would be using that. Sarah gets an 8 as she was the one who put me on hold and within minutes came back and told me the approval had been given for the claim. If I were Sarah, I would find another employer. It is clear that customers premiums are being spent on the nodding dog TV adverts on prime time TV. Avoid at all costs.

The title of the thread says it all.

Hi Mike. Good to see the is250 is now on the road. Great to see what our cars look like with the carpets out. Have fun in it being your daily driver 👍

Just reporting back. Car in and out of the dealership. First class service, picked up, repaired, full tank of fuel, professionally valeted and returned back home. No squeaking or squealing, infact no sound at all except for the occasional front battery charging, at least for now.

As with so many others, I ALWAYS research insurance costs about 28 days before the end of the current policy, it is amazing how differently insurance providers can quote from one year to the next (without any tangible changes in my parameters save for age of my wife and me, my car's accruing mileage, and yet another year on my NCB) I'm certain their quotes are affected by their own block quota requirements, and any changes in the crime / claim rates in a neighbourhood. I also inevitably use a cashback operator like Quidco or TopCashBack - - that often provides a further £30<>£50 rebate. There are some extremely poor insurance companies out there, (over the 50 years+ I've experienced a few!) and no matter how cheap they may appear, if they don't provide a good service when you need them, it's money wasted! A recent Which? Magazine report reported that the top six insurance providers (based on customer service/claims/communications etc) were NFU Mutual LV Saga Direct Line AXA (the) AA Obviously these are results aggregated over many different ages, circumstances and areas, and everyone may have their specific criteria, but this appears to be a reasonable guide.

This year I am with NFU. Found their service so far excellent. You cannot get online quotes but I have found their agents excellent plus my new NX is covered for new replacement if written off for 2yrs rather than the normal 12 months.

Just booked my tickets, plus 1 who we hope to convert!

Hi Henry, remember they do checks at the entrance if they get a sniff of BMW-ness all hell could break loose LOL.

I'm surprised in this over politically correct world we live in they can still call it "Japfest" 🤣

A quick list of what to look out for .... don't let this put you off ... all the faults I can remember are listed below (some are common sense), maybe there are a few more that owners can add Seized rear calipers - cost around £300 each - Easiest way to check is to take the car on a test run and then when parked back up again feel the heat on each alloy - should be warm and not excessively hot. No squealing. Also, if discs are still rusted looking after driving then there's a problem. Obviously pulling to the side is noticeable Brake pad shims - some members reported missing brake shims from the rear calliper - probably from when pads were replaced and the garage or dealer forgot to put them back on. Its not something you can easily check on a test drive but if missing they are very hard to source except from a scrap dealer if they will sell them at all separate. Seized front calipers - as with the rears, around £300 each. Both front and backs can be freed if not too far gone, re-greased and put back together again but once seized they may need looking after more than ones not having been seized in the past as pitting and ill fitting rubber seals may be an issue. Why does this happen ... last owner not looking after the car or using the wrong type of grease in that it attacks the rubber boots letting dirt and water into the caliper moving parts. If it was looked after by the dealer then new calipers would have been fitted if seized. Greasing is not a part of the service schedule from Lexus so be aware. You may not experience any warnings that they are seized. Its the most common fault on these cars so get an assurance from the seller to replace if found to be seized or have him check them first. To be honest If it was me i would also check them myself when I got home with a new car just to be sure. Easy DIY job to both replace and maintain (grease) I do mine every 6 months but a lot of owners do it every year. Black oil - A sign the cars not been looked after - the oil should not be black. It will go dark in colour but not black. Again, an easy DIY job - I use Magnatec and an oil change, including the filter will cost you around £60. Takes a bit over 6 litres. Oil filter cap seized - If you can, ask the dealer or garage to ensure the cap housing thr filter will move. A lot of garages, including dealers put these on far too tight and some owners have experienced cracked housings while trying to remove the caps to change the filter. An easy DIY job White crust around front water pump area - an indication the water pump is on its way out - costs around £200 for a new one (inclusive of fitting) Exhaust shot - Black soot around the welded joints - check the centre section around the middle resonator as this is a problem area. Get this checked out at an exhaust centre. Pay for the inspection as you wont get a lot of change back from 3k for the replacement parts (back box and centre) if it has gone or is on its last legs - the pattern parts have not been released to 3rd party manufacturers so the replacement parts are only available from Lexus unless you are going bespoke and going for a stainless one - a Cat back system will cost around £500 - if you have the time and want to get your hands dirty then you can put together a bespoke exhaust yourself for around £100. Tyres rotated wrong way - Ask why have they done this? un-even tyre wear so look around the shocks / springs to see if theres any issues - maybe nothing Tyre choice - A good choice of branded rear tyres will serve well. Remember its a rear wheel drive car - Do not go for cheap brands as while they may last/wear well, the performance in the wet will be hazardous. Read through the forums for owner experiences on brands. Leaking shocks - Expensive replacements but not a real issue - some owners have reported replacing them and hard to find Wheel locking nuts seized - Put on with a tyre dealer air hammer. Will come off with specialised tools and a lot of patience - I think this is common cause on all cars - happened on 3 in our household over the years. Check this out before buying if possible. Wheel security locking nut missing - check this is available when buying the car. Without it you wont be able to take the tyres off easily or replace if you get a puncture Alloy wheel corrosion - this is apparent across the Lexus range - corrosion on the alloy happens and noticeable by bubbles under the alloy coating - will eventually lead to pressure loss if not tended to as it will break the seal between the tyre and the wheel itself Tow hook missing - only handy when you need it so check its there - located in the boot of the car Spare tyre - it houses a space saver wheel - make sure its inflated. If it looks like its been used then take out and inspect to make sure its inflated. DVD sat nav extraction tool missing - only handy when you come to update the sat nav DVD - the tools for this should be in the black tool kit in the boot of the car CD/DVD head unit fully working - take an original CD / a DVD and an MP3 disc with you and test each one out - they should all work without messing with the settings. (you will need to select each disc to play and it should) Noise from front speaker cover - a cracking noise from the speaker cover on the front centre dash board - not experienced this myself but its apparently quite noisy. Also a rattle has been reported, again not widespread. Noise from driver door area - don't know If this is a common area. I originally thought it was the door seal but narrowed it down to the handle above the door rattling slightly - I oiled the hinge and the noise disappeared Coolant level low - check the heating is hot when on. Check for a "gurgling" noise which will indicate the cooling is low - if its low then there could be an issue with a leak or possible indication the pump is on its way out Front headlights - will become "cloudy" over time - no more than any other car and can easily be restored with a bit of elbow grease Corroded wheels - a common issue with the Toyota wheels - bad ones will eventually lose air and deflate due to the corrosion not creating a good seal. Uneven wear on tyres - indication there's something a miss with the alignment / shocks - to be honest this is not reported as a problem on the cars. Maybe more so from owners using non OEM wheels Cams are chain driven - no worries there but they can stretch (very extreme though) Rear blind working - read a few posts on here that its stopped working or stuck in the up position - check its operation Front discs - They are heavy on discs and front pads. Check the wear on the discs on the front - not expensive to replace and an easy DIY job Lights not bright and flickering - an indication that the bulbs are on their way out - check both are the same colour. If not, one has been replaced and other will need to be done at some point. Check all front lights as they are quite fiddly in replacing the bulbs Aircon works - should be cold - if not then check coolant level, if ok the system either has a leak or may need re-gassing Squeeky steering adjustment - has been reported by a few members. Mine squeeks in hot weather when automatically adjusting. Not all the time and has not caused any issues. Mirrors dip when in reverse - the mirrors should dip towards the road when in reverse, a feature on the cars to ensure easy viewing of where you are going. If they don't then its most likely they will just need to be cleaned internally. Again an easy DIY job. Parking sensors - with the engine running have someone walk within a foot of the sensors at the front and the rear of the car - it should start beeping when the person walks past them. Not seen any issues with this reported by the owners. O2 sensors - PreCat (within engine bay) will go around 70 to 80k easy DIY job - cost around £180 for OEM Denso ones - don't use 3rd party ones as they will not last Rear brake shoes - Cant easily be checked on a test drive - changed mine at around 90k last year and they still had a bit of meat on them, probably on the car from new so more than likely will need changing or inspection at least. Easy DIY job Main engine plastic cover - centre engine cover can become loose from removing and re-applying it. there is a push button tab that breaks off and it can in some instances be heard rattling over lumpy roads. Mine has broke - not a real issue as the radio at low volume masks any rattle. I expect some strong glue would fix this. Engine idle - make sure its constant at tick over when cold (quite high) and when hot (around 700revs) - if erratic it could indicate a carbon build up - not an issue with an application with cleaning liquids Valve Rattle - VVTI may rattle from time to time - the oil will drain in some cases from the resoviour for the valves after standing for a bit and as a consequence there is a rattle noise (similar to a dull machine gun noise) but will disappear in a second or so. Happenned on mine a few times when I first had it. but not come back for a couple of years now. Regular oil changes and I do an engine flush each oil change and in my opinion it has helped a lot. Exhaust smoke - no smoke from these - only condensate when in cold weather which is normal for most cars Cabin carpets - check the drivers side has clips anchoring the carpet down (if it has one) if it doesn't then the carpet can creep under the pedals Boot - Its a fair size boot but the opening does not give good access to large items - ideally it could have done with split seats but its not that kind of car I guess. Audio - Make sure the spec includes a Mark Levinson branded head unit which is the better of the head unit specs on these models.(indicated on the front of the stereo on the bottom right of the unit) Rear seat room - its a bit cramped in the back with passengers on the seats - leg room is dismal, maybe that's why I have never sat in the back when its been driven. Wife wont drive it due to the size of the car which I don't mind at all. Reliability - looked after its bullet proof, best make of car I have owned. Running costs are petrol only. Put in the time to do the services (oil, filters etc) and it will serve you well. Parts availability - Had my 250 for 3 years and an IS200 for 2 prior to that - the only time I was unable to get a part was the exhaust for the 250 - I could get one from the dealer but at nearly 3k I thought no way and went down another route. Parts are available from Eurocarparts / ebay / online easily enough and are not expensive. Speed - People forget these are not sports cars - they are quick in manual mode and can keep up with the best of them but are not made for that purpose. Its nice owning one for the individuality of having something different from whats sitting on the neighbours drive or in the works car park. I only know of an IS200 Alteeza and a IS220 local to myself so its my bit of exclusivity. Don't care how old it is, its still better than a new model medium city car. Mileage - mines on 93k - no issue and having has a high miler is200 and this one then I would consider another high miler but with the knowledge of what to look for. I don't think there would be any problems if you are careful in what you are looking at - gut instinct in a lot of cases. I guess there will be very few low milers available now on these cars now but you may be lucky in finding one. Keys - Ensure it has a minimum of 2 keys and they both work - if not then its definitely a bargaining chip to use as a replacement one will cost you around £350 and a trip to Lexus. Corroding windscreen wiper arms - these seem to bubble quite a bit under the paint on the main body of the wiper arm. No issue but it will break through the paint at somepoint. Check front windshield, if non-genuine check if wipers defrosters and auto sensing wipers works OK. As well windshields mouldings sometimes gets gets loose (broken clips) - about £80 to get new mouldings. (Courtesy of Linas.P) Main ground cable - In wet climate it was reported that main ground cable sometimes gets corroded and it is very hard to troubleshoot it.(Courtesy of Linas.P) Squeaky seats reported for the manual option (Courtesy of Vintagesixtysix) DMF issues (Dual Mass Flywheel) for the manual drive option (Courtesy of Vintagesixtysix) Paint - the paint is soft on these cars so are prone to scratching easier than other makes if not careful Cat failure - there has been a couple of reports of the cats failing on these cars but only a few have been reported at relative low mileage for the car (around 80 / 90k miles) not common though. There are 2 cats on these. Service milestones - consider cars around 60k miles require a spark plug change - or so Lexus recommends although they are good for 100k. This is an expensive job at around £600. Not done mine yet, planning on doing them at 100k. I would state at 100k then you will need to get your hands dirty and give the car a good going over, fluids etc just for peace of mind. Lexus service interval report does not state any excessive requirements, mostly checks to be made. Recalls - that I am aware of: cabin carpet mat required securing / airbags / fuel sensor washer. there may be more but these are the ones I know of. Spec - I would personally recommend the top spec SE-L Auto box at 2007 / 2008 as I believe when the face lift came along then the models lost a few features that were on the older models. A sunroof would be brilliant but like gold dust at this spec. Quite a bit of points above - don't let this put you off at all - the exhaust nearly saw me pack the car in when mine went but I went down the stainless route so alls not lost. Best to go into a sale knowing all the points to look at before making your mind up. Best car I have ever owned. One last consideration - in the 7 years I have owned the Lexus brand we have by far spent more money during this time in maintaining a fairly new Vauxhall !! One last point, if you have an ODB error code reader then take along and scan the ecu for any stored fault codes unless the dealer has cleared it down