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Hi Rob I have had mine for 18 months and asked questions and surfed the net looking for one. In the end there was 2x 2007's in the frame, a blue one in Glasgow or Silver in Bedford both big distances from me in Meltham. It is not the distance but the right car for your day. That is a medley of thing that matter to him like milage, colour of the car and trim which is personal to him. Any corrosion on top and underneath, if everything works. Then trust is a big thing and if he goes for the one at High Peaks, I have heard he is a good guy. It's not so far from where I live. The engines and quality is excellent but a service history is definitely desirable especially if its done by a Lexus dealer. The specification is awesome considering the age of them After buying it some cash and hard work can make any car much better, well it certainly did for mine! Good look to your dad and I hope you find him the right one. I smile and feel happy every time I see mine, start it up or drive it, I hope your dad feels the same. Regards, Anthony

Good idea. I'll put it next to my box marked "pieces of string too short to be worth keeping". 😁

My moan for the day is about my memory Last week, I was tidying up the garage and came across a plastic device, looking like a fuel filler cap. No idea what it was, I thought probably a piece of packaging from a washing machine, so I threw it away. Fast forward to yesterday, where I was cleaning the oven (my wife insists I do this at least once a decade, whether it needs it or not!) and I wanted to take the oven lamp cover off to clean around it. Could I budge it? No, of course not. Resorted to Google and found a recommendation for a cheap tool that helps remove stuck oven lamp covers. It is, of course, the thing that I threw away last week. Once I saw it online I even remembered buying it for exactly the same reason. It's only a few pounds thankfully. I'll think of it as an amnesia tax 😀😄

Definitely one of my favourite moans of recent times! It should be utterly irrational, but instead it’s strangely familiar… Going back a few years I used to drive quite a few miles each year, about 25-30k, as my job meant I had to visit offices across England. I swear that, during that period, I came to the logical conclusion (to me, based entirely on my own experiences) that during the week post the school run (now there is a nightmare worth a rant!) driving standards were far better than at weekends or during holiday periods. I became able to tell - or so I thought - drivers who didn’t drive as much, or who were less used to busy motorways, roundabouts, junctions and suchlike. It was something about their general awareness, hesitancy and positioning on the road. I only drive about 5-8k miles a year now. I’ve almost certainly become ‘one of them’. Eeeeek.

The weather's good, it's a Bank Holiday weekend and those factors put together can only mean one thing: it's not safe out on the roads. Why? Old f*****s in Nissan Qashqai's, driving around completely oblivious to any other road users, road markings or Highway Code procedures. Is the opening gambit of the Nissan salesman when approaching a prospective Qashqai customer something like "Are you a few sandwiches short of a picnic? Are you not quite the shilling?" If the answer to at least one iis yes, he can proceed with the sale. Many of you will know that I have a thing against drivers of German cars. The thing is, they're generally a predictable bunch - you know one is going to cut you up, or glue themselves to your rear bumper on dual carriageways or motorways or be driving like a complete [insert expletive of choice here] most of the time. Qashqai drivers are a very different thing though. Dangerously unpredictable. Heed my advice and steer clear. Steer very clear.

that's why you couldn't open the rear door then

350h ordered 24th January here. Also due in October 22 according to the last update.

All of which supports your (and mine) long held view Lenny that the installation of a dashcam is of immense importance, notwithstanding its recording of one`s own mistakes.

Thanks guys, I've moved it around on the driveway a little and held the revs at 2000 until it came up to temperature. Maybe that'll be sufficient, I have a jumpstarter I keep in the car in case the battery goes flat. Wife's insurance is up for renewal soon so hopefully I'll be able to get her insured to drive other cars 3rd party.

If you have the Lexus app that will be easier, you can download it in apple or play store. Login via the email you gave your dealer and update your order number, which is a 6 digit code, two alphabets followed by 4 numbers. You can also follow the same process through the track my order in Lexus website, or just type Lexus order track in Google and proceed. Create a Lexus account if you don't have one. Make sure to use the same mail id you gave your dealer. Hope this helps.

And reading that they know to pull the wires out behind the grill to cut them to stop the tilt alarms going off They dont miss a trick . Shame that there are scrap yards that buy them off them . Just a question if you would have any knowledge on if they robbed the secondary one can you just put on a straight pipe instead of replacing it until the car test or would that throw up lights on the dash . I dont see any sensors at the front or behind the secondary cat. Thanks .

I don't have the answer but my 2007 Ls600hl displayed the same message and went into limp mode. I was on a 70 mph dual carriageway and 200 miles away from home and friendly dealer so I just hit the gas pedal harder and it eventually recovered. Drove the 200 miles back home and took the car to my friendly Lexus dealer who could find nothing wrong with the car, no codes, just nothing. This was last year and about 6000 miles ago and it had been running fine ever since.

Mine says - "things that will be handy even if I never use them"

No, the OBD has a 7.5 Amp fuse protecting it. You would need to tap into the power going to the driver's door or seat, those have a 30 Amp feed.

Do you have your child lock enabled? I would expect one pull of the internal rear handle to pop up the lock and a second pull to release the door - unless you have deadlocked the vehicle.

That is a truly heroic work of detection! Well done

Welcome to the club Simon. I`ve got mine in a box marked "use to remove light cover in the oven"

I went for Metalic Graphite Black with Hazel interior, even though I have never seen the Hazel in real life.

Out of interest I just connected my iCarsoft Diagnostic Scan Tool and found the mirror fold signal under Body2 signals. A manual live read shows it changing when button pressed. I have now ordered the cheap module that LexusRBest suggested as I guess that will be a fairly easy and quick fix 🤞

Sad to say but yes, it is. If at all possible you need to get the codes read with Techstream, which is the very same diagnostic software used by the techs in the Lexus dealer workshops. A basic code reader like those mentioned above may not be able to read Lexus-specific codes to do with the hybrid system or, if it can, it may not be able to narrow it down far enough. For example, code P0AA6 covers SIX problem areas so the sub-codes help to narrow it down. P0AA6-123* will point to one thing; P0AA6-124* will point to something else; P0AA6-125* to something else again and so on. *Not actual sub-codes, but just for illustration. If you have a Windows laptop (even an old one running Windows XP) you could buy one of these cables. They almost always come with a pirated copy of Techstream but as we can't be seen to condone software piracy, the correct way would be to freely and legally download it from here https://www.lexus-tech.eu/DiagnosticTools/Setup and pay for a block of time to use it (€5/day, €10/week). Either way, you'll still need that miniVCI cable.

Wow you're getting your NX in Oct that's great , what colour and trim did you go for? Mine was Sonic Grey with Black trim

If you click on the title of a thread it will go to the first post in that thread. If you click the little dot (or star, if you have posted in the thread) it will take you to the first unread post since your last visit

Good thinking Herbie, I'll try that tomorrow. Doing an Easter Egg hunt with my youngest granddaughter at the moment😁😁😁

A choice between an X5 and an RX suggests to me Mick that you have not yet specified your requirements. Do your homework properly please and obtain the vehicle which appears to be obvious and necessary in accordance to your needs. I post this advice in good faith and without mischief.

A good point, well made. 😊

Like the others, I'm sorry to hear of your injuries and I hope you make a speedy recovery. As for the car, I think you'll be alright without doing anything, although a trickle charger is a good idea regardless. It's mostly the hybrids that suffer the battery problems because the 12V batteries fitted to these are small when compared to a standard car such as yours. My 2013 RX450h had, if I remember correctly, a 45Ah or possibly 50Ah fitted, whereas yours should be 75Ah or more, I would have thought, which means that it can stand for longer before going flat. Plus, and with due respect to the others, I really doubt that the tyres will develop flat spots or brakes seize up in just a few weeks. A year or more, yes, but not just a few weeks. A few years ago I had a triple heart bypass and wasn't allowed to drive for eight weeks and I was in exactly the same situation; wife can't drive and car not insured for anyone but me. When the day finally came there were no problems whatsoever; car fired up first time, no stuck/binding brakes and no flat spots.

Suspension would be a good place to start looking, but you really need the car up on a ramp so you can have a good inspection and check for excess play etc.

sorry to hear of your troubles .. may it heal soon Temporary insurance for a week or a month for your dad to drive it a little maybe ? Malc

Sorry to hear of your accident wishing you a quick and full recovery. As above with the charging and engine running but I would add in to move the car if possible a short distance ( up and down the driveway a few time if you have one) just to keep the brake discs free from rust and the tyres from developing flat spots.

I'm inclined to agree the ride isn't quite as smooth as expected, and that's from my fairly low mileage example. I also have a 1992 LS400 and that is definitely better. Tyres can of course make a difference, it certainly improved when I recently changed mine. I sometimes get a squeak from a front brake on mine, the dealership say it's because of lipped discs and they could be skimmed, but I wonder if it's the caliper sliders needing to be cleaned-up a bit. The boot area and tailgate can be a source of noises. Make sure the centre rear seat is properly clicked into place. I put some self-adhesive felt strip either side of the tailgate catch on mine where I could see some plastic components were rubbing. There are lots of cubby holes and pockets where loose items can rattle, make sure the noises aren't coming from something rattling around there before worrying too much!

Look at the video Rob.

Gently positioning a yellow duster behind the bottom of the mirror glass and out of the lower sides then giving it a firm tug normally releases the bottom clips and spreads the stress. Lifting the glass up and towards you will unhook the top fastenings and allow the glass to come out. Putting a blanket or some cushions below the mirror provides additional safety but never had one just fly out.

This is a good one to start with https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Toyota-RAV-4-OBD-OBD2-CAR-FAULT-CODE-READER-SCANNER-DIAGNOSTIC-TOOL-/153753302214?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Ooh! Gucci !

Any meaningful help and advice can only be given if you have the OBD codes read and tell us what they are. Anything else is just complete guesswork.

Have you, or has anyone, done any proper diagnostic fault-finding on this car or are you just throwing money and parts at it and hoping that something will work at some point? The error messages are just an indication that something, somewhere, is going (or gone) faulty. This is the sign that you need to take it to a Lexus dealer or any other garage that has access to Techstream to have the OBD codes read. You could even do it yourself with a generic code reader, but Techstream is the same diagnostic software used by the techs in the Lexus dealer workshops. Even when you get a code, even that is not guaranteed to be the fault itself, merely just the starting point for more in-depth diagnostics. For instance, code P0AA6 covers SIX possible problem areas. Generic code readers would probably stay at that, but Techstream goes further by also giving sub-codes and narrowing it down more. For example, P0AA6-123* points to one thing; P0AA6-124* points to a different thing; P0AA6-125* something else again, and so on. *Not real sub-codes, just for illustration. So, you need to have the codes read and then come back to tell us what they are and maybe we can help, but until then it's all just random guesswork.

An update. I changed my pads and rotors, greased guide pins and no more thud in reverse. My guess is the handbrake shoes were sticking to the inside of the old rotors, since my rear calipers weren't seized.

You are right, the more reliable the item the more difficult it may be to get fixed when it goes wrong! My previous heating boiler was a Valiant and worked faultlessly for over 20 years, when it started to play up it was a nightmare to get fixed as 3 plumbers I called could not pinpoint the fault ( I did not want to throw parts at it and said if part they recommended to fit Never fixed it then I would not pay for part, they said that the boiler was so reliable and there was not much ‘history’ of faults so it was difficult to be definite!

Ok - now car is definitively fixed and I am saying it because I am 99% confident of what has caused it. So, the night before the fault I took it for car wash, I washed it and because after washing the engine was warm I thought I will rev it and see how smoothly it revs, so launch the car few times revved it out probably 5000+ RPM, came back home and next day it would not start. Yesterday after finally somehow clearing the immobiliser fault, it let the engine warm-up revved it few times and noticed that after revving engine nearly stalls. This led me to conclusion that there is still some other issues with fuel delivery maybe pump, HP pump, fuel pressure sensor or something in between, but as car was still staring I was mucking about with immobilisers and various stuff and eventually it would not start again. Could not figure out why, but thought enough for tonight, immobiliser comms got corrupted again or something and left it until today. Today I repeated what I did yesterday, changed immobiliser, reset and resync, but was still getting trouble starting the car. At this point I thought - I had new fuel pressure sensor anyway, because I bought it believing it may be causing issues, so I tried changing it to see what happens. Changed fuel pressure sensor and all problems are gone, even Shift Solenoid Performance and O2 Sensor codes are gone! Now the biggest issues diagnosing it was that it is intermittent and requires special circumstances to occur (that is my "favourite" type of issues, because they nearly impossible to diagnose). So the way to reproduce the issue is as follows, start the car, rev the engine past 5000-6000RPM, this causes fuel pressure sensor malfunction, which as result interrupts and corrupts communication on LIN network (which is 5V and communicates between immobiliser, wheel lock and certification ECU), like it is not enough, you can start the car again and you won't know there is an issue as long as you don't lock it. So what caused the issue yesterday was that I locked the car at some point when trying to link the keys. If you lock the car something happens with immobiliser and it won't work again, so when you come to unlock it next day car won't start with immobiliser communication error. Now in theory if you can clear the error from immobiliser, car would start and run again until you reach high RPM and cycle repeats, but for some reason the error was not clearing (I don't know why, maybe again because immobilisers somehow corrupts itself). In my case I had to use another immobiliser for the code to clear. Anyhow if one never reaches high RPM then this issue does not repeat itself and fuel pressure sensor works fine when idle or with engine off, so when I was measuring it there was no issue with it. Basically I took out dashboard for nothing (although ultimately it helped me to find the issue), but I don't hate myself too much, because realistically there was no way to diagnose it to fuel pressure sensor when it was failing in this very specific intermittent way. @Lythics and few others were right, it was fuel pressure sensor, but I knew this could be the case and have actually checked it before without finding any issue. And what is conclusion - modern cars are complex and damn annoying to work on! Obviously better electrician probably would have been able to find ways to troubleshoot it properly, but where do I suppose to find them?! It is nearly impossible, I have had 4 different people to check the car and they could not diagnose it.

Ask to borrow the car overnight or even a weekend as the cost of the investment is too great for you to rely on the view of others John.

Ah ok. I had understood that the VSC issue was not a recall per se, but rather an OTA fix? The date for the recall is 13th April, which has me inclined to think it is the spot weld issue? I guess I’ll know soon enough. Update Ha, I’d literally just posted this message and email from dealer popped in. I’ve been assured my car is safe to drive. Recall involves inspection of 2 panels under bonnet. They indicate that they have not found any issues with vehicles that they have looked at already. (I expect amount looked at already is very small though)

Bear in mind that there are 2 Recalls detailed in the Clublexus.com forum link i posted above. The first is the Spot Weld issue that my dealer confirmed my recall is for. The second is a software issue with the Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) system. Some may have both and some may have one or the other on their own. I personally would much rather have the software issue rather than Spot Welds potentially missing. If your car is produced pre January it might be just the Software if the anecdotal info is correct that the weld problem was January production only. Fingers crossed for you.🤞

@Charliecloud I see you mentioned you’d prefer to deal with an indie, I as have others from this very forum bought performance cars from an Independent dealership near me and their reputation is second to none. I have no connection other than being a very satisfied customer, take a look at them they actually have a E63 Wagon in stock, but if not the one they will source you one to your exact spec. I have contact details of the sales guy I’ve dealt with if you want to pm me…. Anyway they are called Mpowercars.co.uk based near Bristol. 🐀

May I venture to suggest that an otherwise routine manoeuvre became affected by your subconscious anxiety to protect your new car? I managed to do the same some years ago on my wife’s new car. She wasn’t happy at all , understandably. Think it isn’t something that detracts from your character or intelligence, but deeply annoying. PeteTP

Picked her up yesterday, I’m over the moon with her. 101,000 miles full Lexus history. Paid £15750 which I think is a good price. There’s a couple of cosmetic things for me to do but nothing major. Once I’ve owned it for a couple of months it’ll be immaculate

@Rob RCFsee you there mate I haven't booked any track time. It would be epic if a load of us F owners went one year and took up an entire track slot. Imagine the symphony of noise lol

Today I worry about how little this gets mentioned in the media who are complicit me thinks. Disturbing. Boris also a member? Build back better he parrots after Biden https://youtu.be/6G3nWyoQ5CQ

Update on the 'VSC Off' issue and this only applies to just the 'VSC Off' light coming on not VSC and ABS lights on....................I'm convinced it is temperature related. Warm weather now and it hasn't happened as much at all, sometimes first thing in a morning when it's cold it will happen (my drive is very much shaded from the morning sun). After that when driving home after a warm day it hasn't happened and it did happen before then throughout the cold days over winter when leaving work. After a bit of searching on the web I found some posts that pointed towards the battery being the issue, the battery not being 100% and maybe a cell or 2 in the battery is a bit dodgy. Car cranks and starts ok, probably too many cranks at the moment which points towards battery issues maybe. This morning was pretty warm and the car was on the road in direct sunlight rather than on the drive and shaded from the sun, car fired up quicker than normal. More or less on the first crank rather than a few cranks, if that makes sense. Lexus Bolton have a new battery in stock for £100 so will pick it up at lunch, fit it then see if that really is the issue. I've no idea when the battery was replaced so for £100 it's worth doing anyway. I may be clutching at straws but the more I think about the symptoms the more I think it could be just the battery.

Will do! I always use V-Power anyway for the other cars. I don't know if it makes any real difference, but IMO a lovely car deserves the best fuel 🙂 The car came with a comprehensive 3 month all-in warranty, so I will be keeping a close on everything for the next several weeks. After that, if I can find a good local independent, they will be doing the regular services. Yes, there were a few around. I had to travel quite a way to get mine, but I am very pleased with it. I especially wanted a silver one with the cream leather and dark wood interior, which I think is a nice combination. I love the look of the LS 460 in black with cream leather, but life is too short to clean a black car every time you take it out! 🙂

Tenth MOT on my F, not 1 advisory......it’s become a must these days 😂👍🏻