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Here's a few images of the interior of the Premium Plus Pack 450h+ with sunroof.

I once bought a brand new British Leyland car which after 2 days developed a rattle on the offside front, another day later the front offside wheel fell off. After coming to a grinding halt I noticed the rattle had then completely disappeared 😀

Here's the F Sport.

Left the factory at long last.

Update for anyone interested.. The alternator had failed causing the elec fault. The garage said the fuselink didn't blow because it had a poor elec repair previously and was wired incorrectly so it blew before the fuselink saving me having to replace. I had already purchased one including the fusebox and relays/fuses for £30. I still have this if anyone needs it. Refurbished alternator fitted with 1 year guarantee for £170. £20 to repair the botch job on the fuselink. The alternator/starter motor specialist I used.. https://www.facebook.com/Younas-Mobile-Auto-Electrician-starters-and-alternators-238630260036676/ The Lexus breaker I used said he is breaking a few is220d. I thought his price was very cheap as someone else quoted me £100 plus vat just for the fuselink. https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/lexus-is220d-breaking-/1426616016

This is a very heated debate which does reflect the concerns of many who are worried about the rapid switch to EV. Those on the EV "side" have usually had some experience of running an EV. From some reading I have done, EV battery degradation is much less than the original Leaf batteries. One pro-EV reviewer stated that an EV car with high mileage was very good value. I am not particularly for or against EV's but the pros and cons need to be weighed up. For many car users (at present) EV ownership is very problematic. For others the switch has been a revelation, mainly because it suits their driving requirements. Personally I would never buy another new car, as I feel the costs do not make sense. If given a choice between two cars at the same price - one ICE the other EV - which one would I choose? Now I have opened up my own can of worms!

With Lexus rightly no longer exporting cars to Russia, I wonder if the waiting times will reduce. The NX was Russias best selling Lexus.

I was a loyal BL customer in the late 70s and throughout the 80s with Minis, an MG Metro, a Maestro and Montego estates. Worst one from a quality perspective was the MG - poor alloys-and a habit of wearing through front brake pads at an alarming rate. Overall the cars were remarkably reliable and the only reason that I went to another manufacturer in 1992 was that BL couldn't supply me with the car I wanted. Mistakenly went to Peugeot (405 estate) and that car was a disaster and probably the worst that I have ever had.

Dont agree. Never meant to be a full 4 seater. Boot is more useful than reviewers who have done no more than take a quick glance state,and for touring or major shopping expeditions the rear seats provide plenty of additional space. We have no problem fitting in luggage and our retriever dog on the rear seat(heavily protected by sheeting!).If required there is easily enough room for young children.Compare it one of its obvious rivals,the A M Vantage ,this has no rear seats so very little space . The people who buy these cars are not that concerned about lack of rear legroom. A J.

If you have the patience of a saint and can handle anxiety get a EV. I've absolutely no time for faffing with electric vehicles and would sooner use a reliable 6 or 8 cylinder Petrol car any day of the week.

I agree with David and you Malc. If I had the option of buying another car one ICE the other EV and both the same price I'd actually go ICE even tho an EV makes perfect sense for me. Its the charging. To install a home charger at my home would cost a good few thousand quid. Wiring one in would be a doddle but it's the work involved in placing the charger as it would be at the bottom of my garden as my car driveway is there. Anyway as I've said previously I want to keep my is250 for as long as possible (unless I win a fair bit of wonga then I'd get RCF).

From the owner's handbook page 241 "When the windshield wipers are not being used, they retract to below the hood. To enable the windshield wipers to be lifted when parking in cold conditions or when replacing a windshield wiper insert, change the rest position of the windshield wipers to the service position using the wiper lever. ■ Raising the wipers to the service position Within approximately 45 seconds of turning the power switch off, move the wiper lever to ^ the position and hold it for approximately 2 seconds or more. The wipers will move to the service position."

good lord David . just keep your Ls400 for as long as you can ... the availability of petrol and longevity of everything else on your Ls400 will long outweigh any so called " advantages " of having, owning and running.......... ££££££ an EV Malc

Well it is perfectly quiet now!😜😂

If you find you don’t like the fuel that Lexus put in please let me know .....I’ll give you a quid a litre😀

@Big Rat All well here thank you. I hope Mrs Rat packs light, if she's anything like Mrs Nemesis you'll need a trailer on that LC 🙄

I don't think it has anything with cooling the hybrid battery but the OP if referring to cooling the passenger cabin? If the electrical insulation on a/c compressor has broken down it would effect the whole of the hybrid system.

Hi. Just to let you know that we offer a 12 month product called Total Loss Protection. Whilst it's not exactly the same as your traditional GAP insurance we feel for some customers it can make a cost effective alternative. Please feel free to take a look if you wish nearer the time. https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/extras/total-loss/ Regards, Dan.

You Sir are Awesome 😁 Thank you so much, I can now take book to Lexus Edinburgh and get them to fill that page in for me 👍

Batteries degrade, it's not up for debate. I would trust testing batteries with hardware rather than built in software. Remember the diesel gate... The correct way to assess a battery performance is to do several charge discharge event's and repeat at different conditions and see how much cell resistance has increased, compare with the OEM specifications. I have used Maccor equipment which is what I would use for such tests. Furthermore when batteries reach 60 or 70 percent capacity they are at the end of the road and no longer hold charge very well, the first 30 percent will hold charge for quite a while but it's downhill from there on.

Excellent outcome and thanks for the update. It may well help someone.

Nice result. Glad you got it sorted.

@NemesisUK mine has been in the same part of my wallet for the past 4 years 😆 no cards scrambled, no signs of breaking, has only been removed to change the battery or hand over to Lexus for servicing. Couldn't be without it!

I have seen images of the Aluminium Engine parts Paint powder coated and this would have prevented the corrosion. They do look nice. Not got time or inclination to go this route. Just brushed off the loose powder.

I'll post a few later today!

When a car is used regularly, the heat generated dries the engine and engine bay. When it is parked and not used for an extended period, the condensation just sits there, eating away at any surface it can get to. You could have prevented that with a liberal application of ACF50 or similar when you parked it, but as others have stated, only a sealed, humidity controlled, temperature controlled environment is going to prevent that from happening when it is in long term storage. Worst still, is that that corrosion has happened everywhere on the car as condensation gets everywhere. Yes, I do know that you didn't know it would be that long. None of us did.

This was mine in May 2011 having spent 12 years in Japan and being kept in a dry but unheated garage.

Maybe because Monday is the only day of the week with an anagram? 🤔

.... I guess that's why cars rust and on the old Rover 2000's, with much aluminium bodywork, this type of corrosion was prevalent and then " BANG " it all just fell to pieces Malc

Not strictly true. Like most things - multifactorial. Aging population due to increased life expectancy and improved access to healthcare, exposure to artifical UV lights i.e. sunbeds, genetics, increaseing culture to get a tan in the first place and also easier/cheaper travel abroad.

That corrosion is caused by condensation forming on the cold metal as the day ends as the humidity of the day settles on the metal and turns to water. It is only possible to stop this form of corrosion by creating a dry atmosphere at all times and why the classic car junkies keep their cars in those types of environments, mainly air con . It is impossible to create that environment in a climate where your car is located other than a sealed environment as previously described.

I took it to be a Football Team like Moscow Dynamo Kyiv Dyanmo Not like Brent to be so taxing!

"They packed it with felt and re-torqued it and all is now silent again" In pursuit of perfection ? 🤣🤣

For anyone interested in FACTs on EV battery degradation.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/t024bMoRiDPIDialGnuKPsg/htmlview?pru=AAABf3dn3To*xrKp1aysXOkqevDy3XJupw#gid=0

Hi everyone, This is my 2001 Lexus GS300 SE ("Giles") that I picked up last week. It's my first Lexus (I'm currently 25), but certainly not my last. I found this car, of all places, on twitter, specifically within the Weird Car Twitter unofficial community - the seller had asked a well-respected motoring writer within that community to retweet the fact he was selling this GS, and when I saw the condition, price and close proximity to me, I knew this was one I had to see. It's done just shy of 142,000 miles, had its cambelt and brake pads changed last year by the previous owner, then the one before that had changed the 02 sensors, sorted some electrical issues and had a £900 stainless-steel exhaust system fitted (though thankfully a mercifully quiet one!). One test drive later, and I snapped it up. I've already covered just under 500 miles in it thanks to taking it to Southampton then up to and from Exmoor with some members of the Southampton University Hillwalking Club, where the car performed admirably. I've lots to learn about it though, so I expect I'll be fairly active in the GS section of this forum!

Can you answer my question? You claim after 3 years EV batteries are useless yet there are thousands of 3 year old EVs for sale with batteries that a fine.....So whats your explanation? Everyone is lying about EVs?

Picked up my Lexus ES 2022 today. My first ever Lexus and I got a full tank of petrol and car mats. My salesman stated they always supply them full with a new car. Great customer service from start to finish from Lexus Reading. My faith in customer service has been restored after appalling experiences from Mazda and Mercedes.

I think you have that the wrong way around John. The switch needs to be in either the L or R position for the feature to work. Dec.

I was going to try acupuncture but I thought 'what's the point?'

It depends if the one key is a master - does it unlock the glovebox? If yes then you have a master key and someone who knows what they are doing should be able to program a new key for you - doesn't have to be a dealer. Ideally you want them to deregister all the old missing keys too.

Evicted out of double garage as missus wants it for a workshop, so ive got the lock-up garage at house now, in the middle of painting it and re flooring and fitting new lighting at moment… but here’s the before pics of the Fs new home actually more room in lockup 4ft spare at rear and at front and both doors open without hitting walls

My RC-F from a few weeks ago.

It’s funny. I’ve owned two NX (previous model) and loved them both. Previously I’d been a bit underwhelmed by the RX when used as a courtesy car, but when I was given one for a few days I really started to appreciate how good it was. Only had mine since November, but am really impressed. I genuinely didn’t think the NX I had could be bettered, but it has been. The RX is a fabulous machine - it may not have the most up to date tech, but as you say a lot of that is used once as a novelty and not again. Apple Car Play and a touchscreen really bought RX up to date (well, almost) and I guess that’s good enough for the majority of owners and potential owners.

It's easy enough to do yourself. Transponder key programming: https://gist.github.com/m4rkw/d4171ec9426074f550fe0fc23992d360 Remote key programming: https://gist.github.com/m4rkw/d8fb47cac34a534205ae6c6afb16eb07

Fair enough Steve, just thought I'd ask. On the second day of my apprenticeship I was introduced to the guy who would be my mentor for the next four years of my life and one of the first things he said to me was, "There's no such thing as a silly question. The only silly questions are the ones not asked." Here we are, 46 years later, and I've never forgotten that advice.

Vadim, If the tailgate motor/ECU unit is no good to you anymore and you are willing to ship it to Ireland, I can look at it myself and ask our technician to investigate. I work for an electronic RF manufacturing company - we don't deal with microchips as such but would know were to look for fault. If we are capable of fixing it, we will and I'll ship it back to you. Let me know if that is of interest.

Hi Jean-Christophe, I've recently removed my PBD unit for examination, and managed to test power supply in its socket: the power is there, so no fuses and cables to blame. Haven't tested the signal wires yet, but I bet they are intact. Hence the PBD electronics seem to be dead. Good luck with the work. To access the PBD unit you don't need to dismantle the entire car, as in the official books, to finally remove the ceiling. It is enough to remove the rear-left part of the trim, covering the triangle window, remove rear left ceiling handle and then you'll be able to pull the ceiling fabric down 10cm to access the screws fixing the PBD unit. You'll also need to remove the tailgate white trim to unscrew the PBD lever, but that's easy - held by clips only. All screws sit very tight with a blue fixing grease, so take a range of small ratchets and 10mm keys. Photos:

hello everybody, jean-christophe from france nice to meet you. I'd like to share my experience. I have the same trouble since 3 years, no PBD working, no lights, no bips, etc... the two last years, the trouble happened only during winter season, when temperature dropped below 2°/ -0°. each time, I succeed to fix it by heating the roof compartment with an hair drier and it work all the rest of the year. this winter we had a cold week early february and the PBD doesn't work again but this time even heating it, unable to fix it. lexus told me that I have to replace the liftgate motor/ECU. I think I'am going to do it by myself, it's look like easy. I will give you some news.

There certainly seems to be some weird cosmic thing going on with all these tailgates going faulty in the samw way and at the same time. There has to be something common to all of them. So far, @Vadim has got most insight into the problem by using Techstream to see what's going on. He discovered that he has a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) of U0230 - Lost Communication With Rear Gate Module. The workshop manual does give quite a lot of information on troubleshooting this code but we could really do with other people to use Techstream to see if others have the same U0230 code or if they have something else. Certainly, the symptoms all seem to correlate and that makes me think that it can't be a broken or damaged wire, or something physical in that sense. Surely half a dozen or more cars can't all have broken wires or faulty connectors all at the same time? Unlikely, to say the least. However, something that does seem to be affecting lots of us at the same time is failed or failing (lower than normal voltage) 12V batteries and also the wet/cold weather. The workshop manual states: So, first thing to do is check the standing battery voltage at the battery terminals. While you're in there I'd also suggest checking the luggage area fuses as per this page. and also check for water ingress/dampness around the power back door lock/latch/motor assembly (have a look at Vadim's photos earlier in this topic) and also around the tailgate lift motor and ECU, both of which I think are situated under the headlining on the left-hand side. I don't want to tempt fate but my tailgate is working as normal so I can't do anything here to further the cause. I really think that the most useful thing though is for more results from Techstream so please, if you have it or are willing to get it, please post your results in here so that we can see if a pattern emerges. And finally, no one died and made me boss, so if you have any better ideas or think I'm talking rubbish, please shout out and let's see what we can do to beat this thing.