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Another option would be to have your RX300 converted to run on LPG. It must be 5, possibly even 7 years ago since we had ours done so I don't know what current prices are like but it cost us £1400 for the conversion, so you'll have to sit down and work out the financies. You get lower MPG on gas so you fill up more often, but because it's cheaper to buy than petrol you don't spend as much. It's also better for the engine, better for the environment and definitely better on the wallet. I did a comparison on Fuelly at the time and (again, if memory serves) a 'petrol only' RX300 was the most expensive at 22.6p/mile, the RX400h was returning 19.6p/mile, and my LPG RX300 was by far the cheapest at 13.5p/mile.

I'm at the same stage, Stuart. Advancing years and creaky joints mean that I, normally, let my local garage do all the work. About 6 months ago, I was driving down a motorway when the TPMS indicated a deflating tyre. I pulled into a service station and had a look - there was a nail in a rear tyre. This was the first flat I'd had in years and, being on my way to a booked tee time, I decided to do it myself. To say it was a struggle is an understatement, and my body suffered for days. In future, I'll wait for assistance. BTW, what was the problem with your LS?

Tbh I no longer take my RCF on the motorway as the QS exhaust does my nut it when cruising at approx 80 mph. Every time I encounter an incline it drones like no tomorrow and I have to adjust my speed accordingly to remove the drone. Now I only drive it at the weekends and keep it high in the rev range to get the best out of the exhaust. I take the the diesel A Class every time I'm on the motorway. QS exhaust on the RCF removes the GT element of the car, however I'm glad I've got it, but it certainly isn't perfect by any stretch.

I currently (not my choice) have both models, RX300 and RX400h. Is your RX a series 1 or 2? Your mpg figure for your RX300 does not surprise me. You will get better mpg from the 400h. For comparison, I am getting roughly 17 mpg for local town work of less than 2 miles. The 400h does about 24 mpg. My advice (from experience) would be to keep the RX300 and use the £4,000 to run it. If your RX300 is sound then .............. "Better the devil you know" If someone was migrating from another make to a Lexus RX, then I would recommend the 400h over the RX300. Work out your mileage and see how much EXTRA the 300 will cost you. The psychological difficulty is seeing/working out the mpg as you fill up. In terms of money, you would be spending approximately £1,150 more for fuel every 12,000 miles. That would take you about 4 years to break even - 7 years if you did 6,000 miles a year. The 400h's are reliable but issues aside from the battery can be costly. What would appear economic sense is not necessarily what we would actually LIKE to do! Please let us know what you decide to do. Your decision is the right one for you.

I bought a security TV simulator from Amazon for about £10. It's approx 3 inches square, plugs into the mains, and comes on at dusk. Can be set for 4 or 7 hours. We leave it in an upstairs room, and it's very realistic when viewed from outside. Use it every time we go away.

Yes, it just drops out the back of the light unit after taking out the screw.

Personally, I think - yes you are mad. But it depends on your age, health, ability and what plans you have in life.. Life threw me a curve ball by my LS400 breaking down in France, just before the second (?) lockdown, having driven the 1200 mile return trip some eighteen times without incident, and it having a clean MOT no advisories. I had to have something over here to drive so bought what I thought was a good Corolla, one owner, 70k. Turned out having to have quite a lot doing to it and I no longer do things myself if it involves lifting wheels etc. Then realised that it was not going to be comfortable for me to do the 1200 mile trip as not automatic. 1.4VVTi Great for short journeys, economical and chain belt driven. So, bought the GS300 130k miles, and have spent similar on parts if not more as the Cambelt was last changed at 68k in 2008. Daren't risk a long drive in it. MOT pass with no advisories, but needed two rear discs and pads, a Front Caliper, and I've got two new front ball joints even though mechanic says don't need replacing. Just don't trust "no advisories" any more and this has been a strain added to a deteriorating health situation. The VSC light goes out and then comes on, which may be no more than a faulty petrol cap (sounds extraordinary but that’s what people have found) Hoping the Brake work will solve issue. Cheapy Cap arrived from China today – not tried it. Do wonder why I chose another Lexus as spent a similar amount and more on the LS400 back in 2014 and had umpteen slepless nights. Same now. Never had same trouble with W140, SEL, or SEC but they don't make them as reliable after 1998. Guess I have just been missing the LS – and still am! Will I ever get it home?

It was only a few years ago when a series IV with MOT in a reasonable condition was fetching less than £1000.00 Just shows prices are on the up.

Lights on when you're out or away and doors locked when you're in on your own. I always leave upstairs landing lights and/or bedroom lights on if we're away. No one knows they're on during the day but give the impression there's someone upstairs at night. And bulbs are pennies to run, why bother with a timer? There's also an outside light at the back that's always on at night. In fact our house is rarely in darkness at all. A habit I got into when we had kids so if any of them get up they're not stumbling around in the dark. One of the neighbours is frequently away and their house might as well have a big "Burgle Me!" sign over it. Locked doors because in our last house we had chancers opening the back door even when I was sat in the living room.

yes all this will work fine. And dont forget Lights Lights Lights. Thieves do hate that they will go for another house. Finally cameras. hang them in clear sight so the low life can spot them. A dog also helps. Mind you all these help to deter the occasional burglar, the one on the fly looking for an opportunity. The professional artists are a different kind they will enter whatever house they want. Maybe a flame thrower connected to a sensor might help for these?

If you have a front porch then a light with a movement sensor is a first step. Has to be mains powered tho. Another is change your door locks to 3 star security ones. They're much more difficult to pick if at all. They're anti snap too which most aren't. Another is to change your door handles to the 2 star ones. Typical door handles are easily snapped. 2 star ones are basically impossible to snap. Just some suggestions that I have recently changed to.

Valid points of course. I shudder at the way some of my friends and family members treat their cars. They rely on someone or something on the car telling them that they have a problem. No regular visual checks, no checking of oil levels, tyre pressures, lights, nothing.

My 2014 IS300h is SE spec, as a result I have half leather, manual, non heating seats. I have located a complete interior that would be a nice upgrade, however its electric, cooled and heated seats. Sometime ago I asked the question about cars being prewired for things that the car may not have been fitted with, the general consensus was that Lexus didn't do this as it wasn't cost effective. Today I was doing some work on the centre console and I noticed there was a 6 pin multi-plug that was taped up and is not being used, so I got the multimeter out, there was power to one of the terminals. Looking at Lexus-tech this appears to be connector K99, the multi-plug connector for the heated seat switches. Looking at the connector blocks that are listed K99 is the 6 pin connector listed here There are 30A fuses in the power seat fuse locations and 15a fuse in the heated seat locations. Next job will be to take out the seats, lift the carpet and see if there are any multi-plugs attached to the wiring loom in the area of the seats my current seats have 3 multi-plugs on them, does anyone know how many connectors an electric operated and heated seat will have?

Ignition on, open window with the door control and continue to hold the button down for a couple of seconds after it's fully open. Then close it and hold the button up for a couple of seconds after it's closed. Voila...hopefully! Normally caused by disconnecting the battery.

Someone polished it off... 😉

This sounds like me too!

He gave the car back and had his monies returned Phil. Probably not see him Post again.

Usually it's just that the power cable for the camera is running close to the aerial lead and most often can be easily sorted by using a cylindrical ferrite bead at one or both ends of the camera cable like in the photo below. I don't know what this one was used for but normally just one or two turns is enough - using more can even make the problem worse.

I never thought I would but I’ve got the itch to buy another LS400, not one for ££££’s but rather a project car to work on and bring back to a good drivable condition. I still have lots of new parts so I might as well put them to good use😀 I looked at a 97 LS400 last Sunday morning. It is a 1997 LS400 mk4 DHP, Alpine Silver, 118k, grey interior, new alternator fitted and overall condition is pretty good considering it has been stood for a few years on a paved driveway with only the front wings and the boot showing rot and rust that I could see. But there are issues, exhaust at the cats is knackered, big holes in the boot wells either side but easily fixable, VSC light and brake light on iirc, brakes need attention with at least new discs needed, passenger front wing has large rust bubbles and drivers side starting, steering fluid cooling pipe rotted, front bumper needs repair and painting, it needs a thorough clean everywhere to remove the moss and dirt to see what needs to be done. But apart from the boot and wings it’s very very good, also no sign of any rust on the top of the windscreen. The rear arches are pretty good with surface rust at the bottom so will be ok after treating etc. Suspension is ok I’m told and it passed it’s MOT recently in March. There are 2 wings for sale on eBay in the correct colour and in good condition so that would sort the wings issue, holes in the boot can be welded, rear arches etc treated as they are not rotted and the rest is mechanical stuff but I need somewhere to do the work. Plus the car will need transporting because of the exhaust and brakes, car is 175miles away. Price is now £1300 (was £2000 then £1500) and I’ve thought about how much I’m prepared to pay to make it worth my while. I concluded it’s worth £750 to me but I could go to £900, do you that is a fair price considering all the work that needs doing plus anything else I come across? And also, am I mad even thinking about doing it..........

I've been trying to think when, before that incident, that I'd had a flat tyre. It was in the late '80s, before my first LS. Believe me, I have definitely learned my lesson. Next time (if there is one) the golf can wait.

Good post John

Yes it’s standard now for reversing don’t really like it tho.

I bought a 100K 400 2018 for £4K. The best mpg I got like all motors was on the long distance motorways. I was creeping up to 35 Mpg. The 400 has imo a solid HV battery. You can test the cell performance with various apps. initially I thought the car would be electrically delicate. It’s pretty robust as it turns out. My HV has been swilled in water. You should know the 400 does have some leak issues. But a dry out in my case cleared all the low resistance warnings The other thing to watch for is timing belt and wp. Should be changed at 100-110K. its a great vehicle. Comfortable as anything. And it was quick. I used to have an e39 540i that was a 6.2 second to 60 job. The 400, well maintained, is a 7.5 seconder. It’s quick. Can get a bit rusty underside. Mine was from a coastal town and it showed. Brush and hammerite job.

I don't know, but... If it was me - I'd be looking to get my MPG up in my RX300... I get about 24 or so... Better the devil ...?

Ignoring the mpg, how did you find the actual drive @as13? What was comfort like for instance?

Absolutely - it's a right faff to have to set that each time.

Hi, what sort of noise is it? My new RX intentionally makes a low frequency noise when moving slowly on electric mode to warn people. I thought to start with it sounded like the brakes dragging, but its an intentional warning tone. I notice it when backing off the drive in a morning.

Just completed a 310 mile round trip, with maybe 5 miles either end non motorway. M40, M42, M5, M6, M58 and back ave MPG was 36.9 In place's 80mph and alot at 70mph due ave speed cameras, not forgetting the road works 60mph (18miles of on the M6)

As it hasn’t been mentioned, I take it that no-one was fortunate enough to have these incidents captured on a dashcam. Having had them, front and rear, on my last two cars, I have found that they have more than paid for themselves. These kinds of unattended and damaging parking hits, where the culprit believes they’ve got away with it, I think are particularly satisfying when they discover they were caught in the act! I would urge every motorist to protect themselves with these devices. After all, they don’t only identify the guilty, they can also establish your innocence. The so-called ‘Cash for Crash’ scams are just one example.

Theres a few on Evilbay too.

First time I’ve used Amayama and the thermostat is NLA so cancelled, the PS Valve is presently delayed and the only thing in stock is the thermostat housing seal at £2.08. I’ve told them if the valve doesn’t arrive to cancel the complete order as £13.95 shipping for a £2.00 part is a bit too much!

You could always just "smart tech" the house. Add some Google homes, some smart bulbs etc. And you can set up all different automated routines. My house is rigged up and it makes me feel so much better when on holiday.especially.

I think it deters the casual theft though. You know, people who go out at night looking for places to rob and they are faced with a choice - a dark house that looks empty versus a house that has some random lights and may therefore have people inside. It won’t stop a determined thief but it would deter casual theft. Believe that the Police still state it’s a good idea to have lights on a timer. A radio too. Or at least it was the last time I looked.

When the adjustments failed on mine, I just set it to suit my driving position as I understood that the motors on the Mk4's can't be fixed, just replaced. It was easy enough to do once shrouds were removed, and all parts in there looked very well made, but obviously lifed. My car is slowly failing electrically, but still drives fine, but there must come a time in the future where it will be 1 fault too many and it's time to go. Pete

To the original point, I think if someone collects video evidence of a driver deliberately omitting turn signals three times it should be legally permissible to fire paintball weapons at their car. Same for cyclists who sail through red lights. Vote Mark for leader!

The trouble with findings like this is that it does not include customer neglect. How many fail with tyres/ lights/ wipers etc? Take those out of the equation and you would get a better picture of vehicle reliability.

deliveroo busy ! Malc

Just British humour; we are correct, and everyone else who doesn't do as we do are wrong 😉 Some cars, including most German built cars, are clearly built as LHD. Toyota go to extreme lengths to change everything over so if the dashboard is slightly angled towards the driver, it will be whether the vehicle is LHD or RHD. I've been in Volvos where the dash is angled away from the driver, I've even been in a Merc where they couldn't even be bothered to change over the wipers so the passenger has a clearer view than the driver. If Toyota decide the power button on the stereo should be closest to the driver and tuning furthest away then that is how it should be and therefore all controls are mirrored, so drivers of LHD or RHD get the same experience. One thing that isn't, and hasn't been for many years, is the indicator/wiper stalks which are now fixed with indicators on the driver's left hand. This is wrong for a RHD vehicle but all manufactures have agreed on a global standard to avoid confusion. The only other thing the doesn't get swapped is the fuel filler. These are on the correct side for a RHD vehicle (left of the vehicle) on nearly all Toyotas given they drive on the left - probably too much effort to change that over and it is good to have a mixture of both types on the road so we can fill up together either side of the pump.

You couldn't resist it, could you, Malc? Gout acting up again? 😀

Thanks for all your input and in answer to it I’ve got all new OEM suspension parts front and rear including front UCA’s, apart from the rear UCA’s which I sold a few months ago. VSC light on is a concern but I’ll sort it one way or another. Electrics all work and I’d do a cambelt and water pump change, which I think is a given anyway, plus new tyres. Wheels are in good condition. From what I saw it was just the wings and one is a lot worse than the other. The drivers side has small bubbles that’s all, if I proceed I’d buy both wings off eBay, rust treat, paint the inside and fit. All the rest is pretty good and I’ve seen pictures of the underside as well. I’ve no reason to doubt the seller at all and he was very honest about everything, he has had the car on a ramp and inspected by a mechanic as he is in the automotive trade but on the commercial side. I’m undecided at the moment but if I do go ahead I will have to keep it somewhere away from the house and not on the drive for months on end as that will keep reminding the Mrs of something she really really does not want😚

Hi, I recently had someone hit the front of mine too and had to replace the number plate holder, it's very easy, just two screws hold it in place if I remember correctly. The only thing you have to make sure is that you position the actual number plate nicely in the middle on your new holder as mine had to be screwed into the plastic and there was no marking for where it should go to make sure it's in the centre. I bought it from here, excellent customer service and dispatch times: https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ct/lexus-ct-2010-onwards/lexus-ct-exterior-interior/lexus-ct-phase-1-f-sport-number-plate-bracket-post-facelift/ Make sure to check you have the correct part number, you can also message them with your vehicle registration and they can advise you as to the correct one. Good luck!

it's never mad to pursue one's passion ... it might be expensive and a total waste of money ... after all, it's only a car and possibly a moneypit..... but never MAD to do so .... just a waste of money perhaps Malc

No, not mad at all. I paid £400 for my project, albeit with no MoT, and I've spent about £2,000 getting it to drivable condition, although I'm not done yet. Do all the electrics work? If the heated seats still work that's a bonus. Cambelt and tyres perhaps.

Not mad at all if you can find space to work on it. At 118K the front suspension might need a good look at (at the very least - new ARB bushes), if UCAs need doing then starts to get serious. So it is really a low mileage example that should be worth spending on and maybe you end up with a nice car that is getting close to classic and worth more than you paid and spent on it. A local stainless steel specialist might be able to sort out the back boxes (and check the Y-piece) for a fair price. VSC light might be my only 'uurghh' moment!!

It depends on what your budget is. If it is enough or an RX400h or even an RX450h then you will probably find you want to use it more than just the 8 to 10 times a year. The RX450h is the only car I have owned in 40 years that I have gone from one car to another of the same make/ model (updated)

I’d expect HGVs to be limited below 50mph in the next 5-10 years. It’s already being mooted for any HGV still running diesel when petrol and diesel vehicles are no longer able to be sold new. I’d also expect to see more use of (and an associated expansion of) electric railways for freight and even canals, with smaller electric trucks making final deliveries - by the 2050s, in the U.K. and EU at least. That will be a big shift but, as has been noted, the bigger polluters like India, Brazil, China, and the US need to be the ones who make the real changes.

I totally agree. I always use Sport mode on M-Ways. I also find it much safer as the car reacts quicker when you need to change lane.

59 today. Cheers everyone

These are the UK RC F colours (except the 10th anniversary edition):

^^ The NEFF washing machine I had was brand new, fitted in the new build house I purchased. Retail price c£1400. Over the first 18 months I had more than ten (can’t remember exactly how many!) visits under warranty as it kept going wrong. In the end - after some professional ‘persuasion’ - they agreed to accept liability for the machine, the inconvenience and damage it had caused to the kitchen when it (repeatedly) flooded. It wasn’t easy to get them to see sense, but they eventually replaced the machine and compensated me... ...BUT they wouldn’t offer a warranty on the brand new replacement. Just over a year later, the new one went wrong too. The engineer decided it was uneconomical to repair because the computer ‘brain’ was faulty. Looking online, my experience is hardly unique. Based on that - and advice provided previously noting that NEFF was an expensive disaster waiting to happen - I decided to spend less than half as much on the (not NEFF/Siemens/Bosch) replacement. That was an AEG, and only that rather than the equivalent Zanussi (which is the same machine with a different badge) because it was cheaper in a sale and with an extended warranty. So, a £499 machine replacing not one, but two, hopeless £1400 machines in just three years of light use, from a supposedly ‘premium’ brand. NEEDS EVERYTHING FIXED FREQUENTLY indeed!