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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/22/2021 in all areas
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3 points
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I've only ever sold privately and as long as you take sensible precautions it's a good way to get a better price for your car. My son had 4 guys turn up all together to buy his car and he immediately sensed something was wrong when they tried distraction techniques so they could put 'faults' on the car. He told 3 of them to go away which they did once he'd let them know he was an army officer and any nonsense wouldn't end well. I keep all the documents indoors until the prospective buyer has satisfied himself with a visual check and I've taken him for a test drive (me driving). I ask if they want to see anything particular during the drive, harsh acceleration/braking, speed etc and choose a suitable route. I then let them drive but only for a short while on a quiet part of the route. If they drive your vehicle their insurance is almost going to be 3rd party only but it's worth checking they have it. After the test drive I lock the car and leave them to admire the newly polished paintwork while I get the MOT, service book and the V5. Then the fun starts, have a firm idea of your lowest acceptable offer and don't go below it. If you get the asking price you've put it on too cheap 🙂 I sold my IS250 in December and accepted a bank transfer which was done on the spot in 2 payments. Bank apps let you check that the money has been received almost instantly. I don't really like cash especially in the evening as the buyer (and anyone he talks to in the pub later) knows you've got a few grand indoors overnight. Once the cash is in you can complete the relevant section of the V5, hand over the buyers part and the other docs then post your bit of the V5 when convenient. I'm not saying my technique is perfect but it's worked ok for me and I've sold possibly a dozen cars this way without incident. Hope it helps3 points
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They should just work - they don't need to be coded. You only run into problems where you are putting in a seat with different functionality to what you currently have (e.g. no-memory vs memory seats).2 points
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That Carista dongle has always intrigued me so I've just ordered one, will be useful to share with my dad's car also. I'll report back and let you know if the sensors are good or bad! 🙂2 points
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2 points
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I just hope you don't let the side down by putting instant coffee in it!2 points
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1 point
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I collect my 2018 CT200h this week. My first ever Lexus. Having been a long time Joseph Arthur fan, I will be taking this CD with me, and track two will absolutely be the first song I play in my new baby. I had the pleasure of seeing Arthur in New York in 2007, I feel it's only fitting that this'll be the song I drive away from the dealership to....1 point
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https://www.classiccarauctions.co.uk/events/2021-auctions/spring-live-online-sale-2021/spring-live-online-auction-2021/cars/1992-allard-p4-lexus-ls400 An interesting story, and perhaps the photographs don't do it justice.1 point
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It looks really impressive, great work on the lighting. I agree the boot lightning is pretty poor1 point
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If you allow someone to test drive your car without checking they have a license AND insurance you are committing an offense. As Mike says above, you take a calculated risk even if the above is observed. If they prang the car then you will almost certainly be on third party insurance and lose the value of the vehicle you are selling. I have sold a few cars privately and most of the transactions have run smoothly. Be very aware if more than two people turn up to view the car. Trade-in values at garages are on the low side so you need to weigh up the advantages (more money) with the possible disadvantages (Test pilots, who have no intention of buying the car - time wasters). Hassle free option is to trade-in. Some potential buyers are very nice to deal with but you must expect the pain in the ar$e buyer who just wants a bargain by trying to pick as many faults as possible. If you are an honest seller, then list all the faults you know of and show the potential purchaser. Be very wary of cash. Someone I knew accepted cash and after the purchaser left the hundred pound bundles were short. Also be aware of counterfeit money being handed over. Bank transfer, as Mike suggests, is usually instant and can be verified if you have internet banking. It all sounds very scary but you need to be made aware of what can happen. Has anyone on the forum actually sold their car to Webuyanycar.com or similar? Your experience would be helpful if you are willing to share, as Herbie did with his Lexus purchase. Just my thoughts, others may add more.1 point
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1 point
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This is a good place for OEM discs https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/lexus/gs-grl1-gwl1/117800/10132/brake-disc1 point
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High flow sports cars would be the way to go for me, although catless is also your choice! UEL is the current thinking, although going EL is not too much of a stretch either from what we have now. Will keep you all posted on progress!1 point
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Correct it is the same. You have Android Auto/CarPlay as an alternative to using the Lexus system if you wished. Shouldn't make much difference if at all. All the FWD non-Takumi grades are in the same 22 group, even the F Sport. Strangely Direct Line didn't recognise/care about any packs to my wife's car. So in theory a fully loaded base grade UX would cost the same as a completely stock one to insure even though it has a list price of £9k more.1 point
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Sorry for the delay. I spoke to lexus to ask if it was OK to make everyone here aware of the deal I got for this fix. Lewis Castle is the person who deals with this stuff at lexus Croydon. The cost including parts and labour for me is £990. The car is currently at lexus Croydon and they are keeping it overnight to diagnose a different issue. If you are close by, or even a bit further out, it might be worth coming to Croydon to get this fixed. Might take a full day so you might need to hang around here if you are coming from far.1 point
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I thought tyre rotation was recommended by Lexus. On the RX there is going to be more wear with front wheel drive and it makes sense that all tyres are eventually renewed as a set. Another happy owner with CCs which transformed my car from the Dunlops it came with.1 point
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Guys, problem solved, and feel a bit stupid now! The gauge on my trusty old pump had gone, so all 4 tyres were showing 36 psi when their actual pressure was 32 psi, and the tires were way under-inflated. I'm surprised the previous owner hadn't noticed to be honest, but then he hardly used the car in the last year. Confirmed they were all 32 psi by borrowing my neighbour's pump and also cross checking at a local garage. All inflated to 36 psi now, reset the TPWS and the light is off. I'll still play around with the Carista once it comes tomorrow, will be handy to get the sensor IDs for future reference. Thanks for all the replies, this is a great community.1 point
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yeah... I am in the same situation so had to think about it myself. The process is - driver has to be insured. Meaning that it may be difficult or illegal to allow people to test drive your car on public road, you can do it on private road, but I doubt you have a road of your own?. I for example have massive gated communal underground garage, so I guess in my case it would be fine to let the buyer to drive around the garage (but even that is grey area). In short you have two options: Check that they have insurance which would cover your car. Most (but not all) of Fully-Comprehensive covers allows driving other cars as long as they have at least third party cover. If they have that, then they can test drive your car and you can sit in the passenger seat. If that is their first/only car then most likely they don't have insurance, in which case it is illegal for them to drive. As such they sit in passenger seat whilst you drive. The dealers usually allow you to drive on "dealers insurance" which specifically allows for the test drives, however at least in my experience they usually take your license and you sign paperwork saying that you would be liable for like £1000 in excess in case of accident (always read the small print). You as private seller don't have such cover and the risk is an offence of allowing uninsured driver to drive. If you want to take such risk then it is up to you, but I would rather be careful on this. I know not all buyers would be satisfied with that, but such are the rules in the country and I am not sure car sale is so important to risk it.1 point
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With the hefty windscreen excess charges nowadays and the fact that it is then treated as an insurance claim so you get stung at renewal time up to the point where you’re considered claim free again, I’m of the opinion that finding a reputable local company to do the work and paying for it myself is a better way forward. Find out who the local dealership uses and use them. I did this for my last IS300 that needed a windscreen. I’ve had bad experiences with Autoglass too.1 point
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1 point
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Cheers mate! It’s Sonic Titanium; I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the only one in the country! I previously owned an IS300h in Azure Blue; there isn’t another Blue like it in my opinion!1 point
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1 point
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Yes, should work no problem. I fitted some from a 2014 into my 2010, only difference was the seat belt buckles, simply swapped them over. All electrics and memory seats worked fine.1 point
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I don't know but if you've already bought them just bung them in and see if things work - they either will or they won't. At least they'll be nicer to sit on than your existing ones. If they don't, you may be able to do it yourself using Techstream.1 point
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One thing to bear in mind is that it draws power whenever it's plugged in. I once ran my 12v battery down to 11.4v when I forgot to take out the Carista adapter and left the car unused for two or three days. Fortunately, the car would still start. On the plus side, when you get yours you can also use it with the Hybrid Assistant app, which is really great for getting to know how the hybrid system works. Maybe this isn't your first hybrid, but if it is Hybrid Assistant can tell you more than you ever wanted to know about what the hybrid system is doing. It's a free app, developed in Italy by hybrid enthusiasts. Here's a link to their webpage. https://hybridassistant.blogspot.com/p/screenshots.html1 point
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I can confirm that my £75 Super Valu boots cannot be recommended. I was a bit broke and an mot required replacement. When I win the postcode lottery I’ll be getting decent all weathers. This has been a useful thread.1 point
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Understand that you may not want to part with any cash but for £25 you could buy a Carista and follow the video below. You get full free functionality for the first month. It might give you peace of mind knowing if more than one sensor is affected and you'd have a good diagnosis tool for use in the future 🙂1 point
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Hi. I once had similar situation. Unfortunately for me the men at said garage treat all wheels and tyres and tpms as one and tried to tell me the car will learn the new tpms sensor they had replaced "just drive it around and it will sort itself out". Yeah right, after a week still had indicator on dash so I know how annoying it is. I also now know they had sh*t for brains. If they had used their brains they could have picked the phone up where lexus would have told them any new tpms needs coding to the car. Usually done with teachsteam. (Btw that's not the amazon cheapo job, reason being is that the software works but the cable has some connections disabled. Buying proper cable costing £70 got all working.) Anyway I got said garage to give me all four tmps id's and I programmed them into techstream. Since then no tpms light in a year. Lesson learnt. Don't use garages that just shift tyres and nowt else.1 point
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My sat nav screen frooze and lexus replaced the whole unit. Think it cost £3200. Lucky i had the extended warranty. Its a well know and documented problem with the early cars1 point
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My only comments would be, that i only drove the 35 miles home on the standard suspension, then the car went up on a lift to be inspected and then had essentials replaced, so I have spent more time on the coilovers and I am used to the ride of my GSF, so maybe in comparison I still feel like im floating around. Maybe to those who've spent more time on standard springs would feel a larger difference? I use HSD's purchased from Driftworks (cracking deal last black Friday) on their standard spring rate, 12kg and 8kg come to mind but I would have to look it up to be certain. The car has been lowered around 15-20mm. I don't drive the LS hard in anyway, I've got the GS for that, so I just waft around locally.1 point
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Congratulations Mr and Mrs Herbs ! I see very few Mesa red and was surprised to see one parking up in town just last week. It was exactly the same colour combo as yours and looked fantastic. I had a good chat with the owner as I've just had my fuel pump recall letter but he knew nothing about it ( same plate as mine 69 ). Hope all goes well - you'll be well excited. Alan1 point
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Also insist on a new "Gel Pad" for the front Auto Wiper Sensor as this invariably gets finger marks on it by the fitter and they just replace the old one and it never works quite the same.1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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+1 I would always replace all 4 with the same type. Love my MCC's!1 point
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Lexus Parts Direct must have increased the price of this item then, since I bought mine from them as they were well under the shipped price asked by Lexus (Snows) Exeter which is still £354.99. If interested I would ask Lexus Parts Direct if they could do better as they normally beat other dealers significantly. I am pretty sure that the diagram that came with mine showed as suitable from cars from 2008 - (to last of the 3rd Generation.)1 point
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Still there for £353: https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-rx/lexus-rx-phase-iii-2009-2015/lexus-rx-3-exterior-interior/lexus-rx-phase-3-roof-rails/1 point
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Sometimes appear on e-bay. If you find a set in good condition for about £200 incl postage consider it a fair price. When I was looking to equip my car with the roof bars two years ago, the cheapest option was lexuspartsdirect, who offered new for about £330 incl VAT and delivery. I also heard from some car breakers, that RX mk2 roof bars (factory black) may fit RX mk3, but never had chance to check. Despite the body is quite different, the roof slopes, screw positions and fixings may well be the same. If you find such a used set for RX mk2 in close proximity, it may be worth checking fit.1 point
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Good luck as used availability for these is exceeded by demand. I got new ones in the end from Lexus Direct who were doing them at a discount - may still do. New ones come with new gaskets and required longer fixing bolts etc. Care needs to be taken to obtain the securing parts and to fit them correctly as this is a known area for ingress of water into the car.1 point
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Hello Banji… I have spent thousands of pounds on Specialized battery bikes, and other makes… Yes, the Gocycle GXi, is very good value for the money, it’s a third of the price of many other battery bikes, and it’s an ex McLaren guy that founded the company that makes them… I still have a difficult decision…! Do I put it in the boot of the lovely LC 500 Convertible, or my Electric Honda e…??? I supposed it depends on where I might park…! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjlC6us6zww1 point
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1 point
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I know what you mean David and if it was a private transaction I would feel the same way, but I just don't see why anyone would be secretive about how much they've paid when it's already in the public domain. The old saying "There's nowt as queer as folk" is quite true though. A life-long friend of mine and his wife have no idea how much each of them earns. They have a joint account for bills and suchlike but other than that he has his account and she has hers and neither of them knows what goes in or out of the other's. Seems a strange way to live to me, but hey-ho.....1 point
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Count me in. I would be ready to go as soon as they are ready. Equal length is preferable but good quality is paramount. A copy of an existing design would seem to be the only way of avoiding development costs and time?1 point
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Definitely interested, equal length is my preference. Cheers, Andy1 point
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@Cactus Your best bet is to have a nosey on the US forums. I've attached the results RR-Racing achieved. Results vary depending on the Dyno and conditions on the day. But they tend to make around 400ftlb and 420ish hp at the wheels. Taking into account drivetrain loss, it puts the 2UR-GSE into the 100hp per litre zone. With it being NA, you'll never gain a lot in power, but the driving experience is definitely enhanced in terms of noise, throttle response, mid range torque etc. Most gains are made from the exhaust system alone circa 40-50hp peak, a tune will net about 10hp peak and intake systems pre inlet manifold seam to net about the same. @Northern isf has PPE manifolds, he's mentioned to me that it makes a difference.1 point
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How much whp and torque are we really looking at? Am i right that it will need an aftermarket intake and a full exhaust and a ecu to really make some decent double digit power gain.1 point
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I'm interested, I've been looking at them umming and arring. I'd go equal length if I had the choice.1 point
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By anychance are you dealing with STG performance? Ive gone to them for a custom set, and they say they are working on a 'off the shelf' set1 point
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I use sports mode when overtaking (cyclist, tractors, etc.) on single carriageways. I find the better throttle response really helps. Other than that, normal mode is sufficient for me.1 point